Mar 6, 2015

Lucky Shamrock Beanie

Shamrock Beanie

St. Patrick’s is around the corner! Wip out this lucky shamrock beanie for one of your loved ones or for yourself. The stitch pattern is an 8 stitch repeat, making it an easy stitch pattern to use on smaller or bigger hats, or other projects in the round. An awesome unisex design. Want a slouchy style instead of a tight fitting beanie? Work more rounds in the italicized section in the pattern. 


Knitting Loom: All-n-One knitting loom, set at 72 pegs (or any configuration of multiple of 8).

Yarn: Approx 140 yards of worsted weight yarn. Sample was knit using Knit Picks in Citrine (MC) and Macaw (CC).

Notions: Knitting tool, tapestry needle.

Gauge: 9 sts x 14 rows=2 inches in stockinette

Size: Size shown fits up to a 19.5″ head. To create smaller or larger sizes, simply cast on a number that is a multiple of 8 (56, 64, 72, 80).

AbbreviationsShamrock Chart Property of Isela Phelps

K: knit stitch. Recommend the knit stitch or the u-stitch; do not recommend the flat stitch or the ewrap.

P: purl stitch

CO: cast on (Sample uses the ewrap cast on to provide an elastic fit).

BO:bind off

GBO: gather bind off

Rep: repeat

Rnd: round

MC: Main color

CC: Contrasting color

PU: Pick up

K2tog: knit two stitches together. A right slanting decrease.

Pattern notes:Shamrock Beanie Side View

  1. When working with two strands of yarn on the same row, be sure to pick up the yarns in the same order throughout the project.  View this video for a few tips on working with colorwork.
  2. Work your colorwork loosely, if you pull on the yarn too tight, the knitted fabric will pucker up.
  3. Wet block or steam block after knitting.
  4. Work chart from the bottom up, and every round starts on the right.


Set up the All-n-One loom to 72 pegs (or any other multiple of 8 stitches).

Using MC, cast on 72 stitches, prepare to work in the round.

Rnd 1-8: *k2, p2; rep from * to the end of rnd.

Rnd 9-11: k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 12: Join CC, k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 13: PU, MC, p to the end of rnd.

Rnd 14-16: Cont with MC, k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 17-24: Follow chart to create the shamrocks.

Rnd 25-28: With MC, k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 29: PU CC, p to the end of rnd.

Cut CC leaving a 6 inch yarn tail.

Rnd 30-50: With MC, k to the end of rnd. Cut MC, leaving a 6 inch yarn tail.Shamrock Beanie Top view

Join CC.

Rnd 51-54: k to the end of rnd.

Decrease rounds

Rnd 55: *k2tog; rep from * to the end of rnd.

How to:

Move the stitches from the odd numbered pegs to the even numbered pegs. Knit the round, skipping the pegs with no stitches and treating the pegs with two loops as one loop.

Remove stitches from the loop to a piece of scrap yarn—this is temporary.

Readjust the knitting loom to the new peg number configuration: 36 pegs. (Divide the cast on number of pegs by 2).

Place the stitches back on the knitting loom.

Gently tug on each of the stitches, starting with the first peg, to remove any of the extra slack in the yarn.

Rnd 56: Rep Rnd 55.

Bind off with the gather removal method. Cut yarn leaving a 6 inch yarn tail.

Weave all ends in.

Steam block or wet block to set the stitches.

Link to a video showing Working with Color


  • I really like this pattern. I would like to download this pattern. Will that be available anytime soon?

  • thanks so much for sharing – ST. PATRICKS DAY is my birthday so yes I will be making one of thiese……………….

  • On round 25-28 did you mean MC?

  • Download? You mean as a PDF. They are put in PDF format after being on the blog for six months. In the meantime, you can copy it and paste it onto a word document and save it that way.

  • Yes. MC.

  • Isela what a clever pattern. I’m so glad to see you still posting patterns. I started loom knitting 2 years ago, I was quite late to the party, but I learned sooooo much from your videos.You’re a fantastic teacher.

  • Where do I learn how to read these patterns. I am totally confused

  • Well, learning to read patterns is a bit like learning to read. Each pattern comes with a list of abbreviations. I guess the first step is to learn the abbreviations and what they mean. Next, start reading the pattern, if needed, replace the abbreviation with the complete term. In pattern writing, it is best to be concise, however, if you prefer, you can use the entire term, if it makes it easier to understand. Once you get to the pattern itself. A number next to a letter or term typically means that you work that many stitches (the number). Example: k2=knit two stitches (knit two pegs). Another example: Sl 3=slip 3 stitches (skip 3 stitches with yarn behind the pegs). Does this help a little?

  • I do not know any other way to reach you. May I please have some info on 2 projects On the AIO headband with crochet flower, I tried to use a #4 weight 100% wool. I was into the pattern and looked at it on the right side, the stitches were large. Your picture showed a tiny row of stitches. What did I do wrong?
    next? on the cats paw headband what yarn did you use? what weight? color?

    Thank you for your help

  • The one with the crochet flower: I just worked the knit stitch. Nothing different or fancy. My tension is the same throughout.

    Cats Paw Headband: it looks like Knit Picks Shine in worsted weight. Don’t have the color way written anywhere. It was yarn left over from another project.

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Mar 2, 2015

Stitchology VII

Clover Columns Stitch

Clover Columns

May you live a long life,
Full of gladness and health;
With pockets full of gold,
As the least of your wealth.
May the dreams you hold dearest,
Be those which come true;
The kindness you spread,
Keep returning to you.

-Irish Blessing


If this doesn’t call to the Irish in you, (at least in spirit, if not in blood, haha!) I don’t know what will.  Delicate swirls and twists that form little four-pointed clovers make up this month’s stitch, just in time for St. Patrick’s Day.  IClover Columns clover f it looks rather complicated to manage, no worries, because it’s actually a fairly easy stitch to do!  The cables are done by simply twisting two peg’s stitches at a time as you work through the rows.  :)

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)  To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

Clover Columns Square

Clover Columns close

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in kiwi)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: cable needle, peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 13—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

*All yarn overs (yo) for this stitch are completed by e-wrapping the peg.

*For ease in reading the pattern’s directions below, the steps  involving twists and eyelets are placed inside brackets [ ] to let you know that they are all accomplished on just two or three pegs.

The cables in this pattern involve simply trading the loops of 2 pegs in the correct order. They consist of a Right Twist [rt2] (a twist with the sts running to the right), and a Left Twist [lt2] (a twist with the sts running to the left).  They are worked as follows:

[rt2]:  Worked over 2 pegs: Lift the loop from the peg on the right and either hold in your fingers, or place on a cable needle.  Lift the loop on the left and move it to the peg on the right.  Place the held loop onto the peg on the left.  With the working yarn, knit the 2 pegs.

[lt2]:  Worked over 2 pegs: Lift the loop from the peg on the left and either hold in your fingers, or place on a cable needle.  Lift the loop on the right and move it to the peg on the left.  Place the held loop onto the peg on the right.  With the working yarn, knit the 2 pegs.

*An easy way to remember which direction to go is to remember to hold the stitch on the side of the slant.  So…for a right twist, hold the loop on the right.  For a left twist, hold the loop on the left.

There are two ways of creating eyelets for this pattern: the Knit 2 Together (k2tog) for a right leaning eyelet worked as a knit, and the Slip, Slip, Knit (ssk) for a left leaning eyelet worked as a knit.  For this pattern, they are each incorporated into a cable twist, as seen in Row 12. The following dictates how to work these stitches as you will find them in the stitch pattern:

[yo, k2tog, rt2].[yo, k2tog, rt2]:  Work over 3 pegs from left to right: Before working the k2tog peg, work a [rt2] as detailed above, but do not knit yet.  Move the loop from the k2tog peg to the left peg of the [rt2].  Using the working yarn, e-wrap the empty k2tog peg.  Knit the 2 twist pegs, working the 2 loops as one.

[lt2, ssk, yo][lt2, ssk, yo]: Work over 3 pegs from left to right: Work a [lt2] as detailed above, but do not knit yet.  Move the loop from the ssk peg to the right peg of the [lt2].  Using the working yarn, knit the 2 twist pegs, working the 2 loops as one.  E-wrap the empty ssk peg.

Chart Key Clover Columns


Repeating Pattern Rows

Clover Cables Stitch

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Clover Columns Square

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)


Step by Step Instructions:

*Note: if you tend to be a loose knitter, you might wish to eliminate Rows 1 & 63 to help achieve your 8″ x 8″ square.

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 44 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Main Pattern Rows

Clover Columns longRow 1:  p3, k1, *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2.

Row 2:  k2, p1, k1, *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat * to last st, k1.

Row 3:  repeat Row 1.

Row 4:  k1, *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 4 sts, k1, p1, k2.

Row 5:  p3, *k1, p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2.

Row 6:  k1, *k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p1, [lt2], p1, k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 4 sts, k1, p1, k2

Rows 7:  repeat Row 5.

Row 8:  k1, *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [lt2], [rt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 4 sts, k1, p1, k2.

Row 9:  repeat Row 1. *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Row 10:  k2, *p1, [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], repeat from * to  last 3 sts, p1, k2.

Row 11:  p4, *k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p3, repeat from * to last st, p1.

Row 12:  k2, p2, *work over 3 pegs: [lt2, ssk, yo], p1, [rt2], p1, work over 3 pegs: [yo, k2tog, rt2], p3, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 13:  repeat Row 11.  *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Row 14:  k2, *p1, [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], repeat from * to  last 3 sts, p1, k2.

Row 15:  repeat Row 9.

Row 16:  k1, *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 4 sts, k1, p1, k2.

Row 17:  repeat Row 5.

Row 18:  repeat Row 6.

Row 19:  repeat Row 5.

Row 20:  repeat Row 8.

Rows 21-60:  repeat Rows 1-20.

Finishing Rows

Rows 61-63:  repeat Rows 1-3.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″


  • Beautiful design, Bethany! I love that shade of green, too. Lovely work :)

  • Oh, thank you, Jenny! Cables= cozy goodness, right?? I love this shade of green too! :D

  • B-e-a-utiful!!!!

  • […] 2015~ January: Snowy/Starry Skies Stitch February: Eyelet You Have My Heart Stitch March: Clover Columns Stitch […]

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