Apr 10, 2015

Zoey’s Toesies

Zoey's Toesies- efg loomSpring seems to be the time the urge hits to whip up tiny projects for those wee babes we know. This little pair of baby booties is just the thing to keep those sweet little tootsies snug and warm, and our knitting urges satisfied, lol.  In my case, a new niece will be arriving soon, so these are named for her. The bit of picot edging and the contrast colored toes and heels add to the overall cuteness, while the elastic yarn works to keep them in place no matter how much baby Zoey loves to kick. ;)

Needed

Knitting loom: KB Sock Loom Extra Fine Gauge

Yarn:  approx. 1/2 skeins Cascade Yarns Fixation: Sock Weight, 100 yards, 98.3% Cotton/ 1.7% Elastic (sample in colors MC: #9907 & CC: Lemon).

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, 4mm crochet hook (for cast on and help with possible missed stitches, etc))

Gauge: 8 stitches and 14 rows per inch on average.

Finished sock measures 3.75″ in length and 2.5″ in height.

Skills Needed: True Knit Stitch or U-stitch, Double Wrap Short Row Method (shown in video links below), Chain CO, and Basic BO, Knit 2 Together.

Pattern Notes:

All knit stitches are either worked as a true knit stitch, or as a U-stitch.

The sample sock was knit using an elastic yarn, which makes the sockies nice and smooshy.  The thing you’ll need to be careful of is keeping just a little bit of tension on that yarn throughout the project. This give your socks that perfect amount of stretch…not too little and not too much.  BUT!  You’ll need to keep your tension consistent throughout the project, and on both socks! ;)

**To contact Bethany Dailey, simply submit a comment at the bottom of this post.

Abbreviations: 

CO: cast on

CC: Contrast Color

MC: Main Color

K: knit stitch or U-stitch, as desired

KO: knit off

St(s): stitches

WY: working yarn

k2tog: knit 2 stitches together

W&T: wrap and turn- the method of creating short rows with a wrap, and then a turning of direction mid-row.

BO: Bind off

Video Tutorials and Web Tools:

Turning of heels and toes:  Double Wrapped Short Row Method  (For those who need it, the Step by Step written instructions are at the bottom of this post)

 

Pattern Instructions:

Set your EFG Loom to use 40 pegs in the round.

Using your CC yarn, Chain CO to all 40 pegs.

Rounds 1-5:  K

Zoey's Toesies- Picot EdgeRound 6:  k2tog every even peg:
(Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2, move loop from peg 3 to peg 4…etc, to the end of the row. To work round, carry WY behind each empty peg and knit all double loops as if they are one.)

Round 7: Carry WY in front of each empty peg, and K each even peg.  All pegs will now be filled.

Rounds 8-12: K

Bring inside leg of all CO row loops back up onto the loom, as you would for the brim of a hat. KO all sts.

Cut CC yarn to approx. 4″.

Rounds 13-22:  Join your MC yarn and K.  Do not cut yarn.

Join CC yarn and using the Double Wrap Short Row Method, decrease on pegs 1-20, keeping pegs 8-13 unwrapped, and the 7 pegs on each side will be wrapped.  (For those who need it, the Step by Step written instructions are at the bottom of this post)

Increase back to a full 20 pegs.  Extend your W&T’s one extra peg on each end to help close any hole created by starting the short rows.  Pegs 40 & 21 will still have wrapped loops- just knit these loops together as one during the next knitted row.

Zoey's Toesies- 3 Cut CC yarn to approx. 4″.

Rounds 23-38: Pick up MC, K all pegs.

Cut MC yarn to approx. 4″.

Join CC and repeat the short row instructions to create the toe.  This time you will not have to extend the W&T’s one extra peg on each side.  Just end the short rows when you have increased back to all 20 pegs.

Trim yarn to ?”.

It is now time to seam the two toe edges together.  The best and most seamless way to do this is to create a Kitchener Stitch.  The instructions on how to work this is found here:  http://knittingboardchat.com/blog/archives/1481

If you feel a little overwhelmed by this grafting method, you can either carefully whipstitch or mattress stitch the toe closed.  Here’s a great tutorial for that: http://www.knittingboard.com/so-sewing-the-toe-video/

Weave in all ends, stretching the fabric as you go, so that the tails will stay hidden.  Trim close to work.

Now make a second sock! :)  **Note: keep in mind that because this sock has used a yarn that has a little bit of elastic, you’ll want to make sure that you keep the same tension for the second sock as you did for the first one… or you might end up making the mistake I did and end up with two socks knit using exactly the same pattern, but were two completely different sizes.  Ooopsie! :P

 

**Step by Step Double Wrap Short Row Instructions:

To wrap and turn (W&T): Remove the loop from the peg and hold it. With working yarn, simply wrap around the peg, then place the loop back on the peg.

  • K19, W&T peg 20.
  • K18, W&T peg 1.
  • K17, W&T peg 19.
  • K16, W&T peg 2.
  • K15, W&T peg 18.
  • K14, W&T peg 3
  • K13, W&T peg 17.
  • K12, W&T peg 4
  • K11, W&T peg 16
  • K10, W&T peg 5
  • K9, W&T peg 15.
  • K8, W&T peg 6.
  • K7, W&T peg 14.
  • K6, W&T peg 7.
  • K7 (Treating the wrap(s) and the loop as one stitch). Lift both loops and W&T peg 15.
  • K8 (Treating the wrap(s) and the loop as one stitch). Lift both loops and W&T peg 6.
  • K9 (Treating the wrap(s) and the loop as one stitch). Lift both loops and W&T peg 16.
  • K10 (Treating the wrap(s) and the loop as one stitch). Lift both loops and W&T peg 5.
  • K11 (Treating the wrap(s) and the loop as one stitch). Lift both loops and W&T peg 17.
  • K12 (Treating the wrap(s) and the loop as one stitch). Lift both loops and W&T peg 4.
  • K13 (Treating the wrap(s) and the loop as one stitch). Lift both loops and W&T peg 18.
  • K14 (Treating the wrap(s) and the loop as one stitch). Lift both loops and W&T peg 3.
  • K15 (Treating the wrap(s) and the loop as one stitch). Lift both loops and W&T peg 19.
  • K16 (Treating the wrap(s) and the loop as one stitch). Lift both loops and W&T peg 2.
  • K17 (Treating the wrap(s) and the loop as one stitch). Lift both loops and W&T peg 20.
  • K18 (Treating the wrap(s) and the loop as one stitch). Lift both loops and W&T peg 1.
  • K19 (Treating the wrap(s) and the loop as one stitch). Lift both loops and W&T peg 21.
  • K20 (Treating the wrap(s) and the loop as one stitch). Lift both loops and W&T peg 40.

***Extending one extra peg on each end will help close any hole created by starting the short rows.  Pegs 40 and 21 will end up with 2 wraps. Leave them on the pegs as you continue with the rest of the instructions. On the very next round, treat the stitches and wraps on these pegs as one stitch.***

*To contact Bethany Dailey, simply submit a comment at the bottom of this post. :)

3 Comments

  • Great little socks! Getting ready to be a “great Aunt” again in May, they will be a perfect gift to go with the blanket I made. Where do you get the yarn? Is it on-line? Thanks again for the really great pattern. Sue

  • Hi Sue :)

    Thank you so much! I hope the babies will like them as much as we do, haha! ;) The yarn, I’m sure, can be purchased online at the many yarn suppliers out there, but I actually got mine at a local yarn shop (not the big box store kind). I’ve actually seen them in most of those little shops that I have visited.

    Hope that helps!
    Bethany~

  • Adorable! :)

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Apr 6, 2015

Stitchology VIII

Tulip Fields Stitch

*Updated pattern (specifically Row 15) and charts 4/8/15.

Skagit Valley Tulips, Bethany Dailey, 20130411 (1024x737)This month Skagit Valley, WA, a length of lovely farmlands surrounded by both mountains and the northern islands of the Puget Sound… or in other words, where I call home… is blooming with the vibrant colors of hundreds of different varieties of tulips in a display that rivals even those found in Holland!  The brilliant swaths of color across the landscape are truly breathtaking and are the official signal that spring has definitely arrived in Washington.  April’s stitch is in honor of this gorgeous time of year!

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)  To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

Tulip Fields Square

Tulip Fields Square -top angle

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in banane) *Note: Because this pattern requires some definite blocking, a wool yarn is highly recommended. ;)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins/pad)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 14—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

*All yarn overs (yo) are completed by laying the working yarn loosely across the front of the peg, not e-wrapping!

Special Stitch Instructions

*For ease in reading the pattern’s directions below, the steps  involving twists and eyelets are placed inside brackets [ ] to let you know that they are all accomplished on just two or three pegs.

There are three ways of creating eyelets for this pattern: the Knit 2 Together (k2tog) for a right leaning eyelet worked as a knit, the Slip, Slip, Knit (ssk) for a left leaning eyelet worked as a knit, and a Knit 3 Together (k3tog), a decrease that creates an eyelet on either side.  The following dictates how to work these stitches as you will find them in the stitch pattern:

[k2tog, yo]:  Worked from right to left. Move the loop from yo peg to the k2tog peg. Loosely carry the WY across the front of the empty yo peg, then knit the next peg, working the two loops as one.

[yo, ssk]: Worked from right to left. Move the loop from yo peg to the ssk peg. Loosely carry the WY across the front of the empty yo peg, then knit the next peg, working the two loops as one.

[yo, k3tog, yo]: (As seen in Row 17 of the pattern) Worked from right to left. Move the loops from the yo pegs to the k3tog peg.  Carry the WY loosely across the first empty yo peg, then work all 3 loops as 1 on the k3tog peg. Carry the WY loosely across the front of the next empty yo peg and work the next peg in line as the pattern dictates.

k2tog/ssk by itself: Since a k2tog or an ssk are a decreases, in order to keep the same number of pegs being used in a row, there has to be a corresponding yo, but the two don’t necessarily have to be right next to each other.  When the k2tog/ssk and yo are separated by other pegs, you’ll need to set up the stitches before working that part of the row.  Let’s look at Row 7 peg by peg as an example:

“Row 7:  p3, *k2tog, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, ssk, p5, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3″

Worked from right to left:

  • Pegs 1-3: purl
  • *Move the loop from peg 5 to peg 4.
  • Move the loop from peg 6 to peg 5.
  • Knit 2 loops as 1 on peg 4, knit peg 5.
  • Carry the yarn loosely across the front of peg 6.
  • Pegs 7-9: knit
  • Move the loop from peg 11 to peg 12.
  • Move the loop from peg 10 to peg 11.
  • Carry the yarn loosely across the front of peg 10, knit peg 11.
  • Knit 2 loops as 1 on peg 12.
  • Pegs 13-17: purl
  • Repeat from * to peg 40.
  • Pegs 41-43: purl.

Tulip Stitch Row

 

Chart Key Tulips Stitch

 

Repeating Pattern Rows

Tulip Stitch-updated 4-8-15

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Tulip Square-updated 4-8-15

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

 

Step by Step Instructions:

Tulip Fields Square- side angle

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 43 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Main Pattern Rows

Row 1:  p43

Row 2:  k43

Row 3:  p43

Row 4:  k1, p4, *k5, p9, repeat from * to last 5 sts, p4, k1

Row 5:  *p4, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, p3, repeat from * 2 times, p1

Row 6:  k1, p3, *k7, p7, repeat from * to last 4 sts, p3, k1

Row 7:  p3, *k2tog, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, ssk, p5, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p3

Row 8:  k1, p2, *k9, p5, repeat from * to last 3 sts, p2, k1

Row 9:  *p2, k2tog, k2, yo, k3, yo, k2, ssk, p1, repeat from * to 2 times, p1

Row 10:  k1, p1, *k11, p3, repeat from * to last 2 sts, p1, k1

Row 11:  p1, *k2tog, k3, yo, k3, yo, k3, ssk, p1, repeat from * 2 times

Row 12:  k14, p1, k13, p1, k14

Row 13:  p1, *k2, k2tog, yo, k5, yo, ssk, k2, p1, repeat from * 2 times

Row 14:  k1, *k3, p1, k5, p1, k3, p1, repeat from * to last st, k1

Row 15:  p1, *k1, k2tog, yo, p1, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, p1, yo, ssk, k1, p1, repeat from * 2 times

Row 16:  k1. *k2, p3, k3, p3, k2, p1, repeat from * to last st, k1

Row 17:  p1, *k2tog, yo, p3, yo, k3tog, yo, p3, yo, ssk, p1, repeat from * 2 times

Row 18:  k2, *p5, k1, p5, k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to last st, k1

Row 19:  p43

Row 20:  k43

Row 21:  p43

Rows 22-57:  repeat Rows 4-21 two more times.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

2 Comments

  • Another beauty, Bethany :) Lovely!

  • Thank you so much, Jenny! I’m so glad you like it! <3

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