Reminiscent of days gone by, the cloche is knit in two parts, the band and the body of the hat, all in stockinette stitch. The slanted band around the brim gives the cloche its beauty. Decorate it with a one-of-a-kind button and you have a unique cloche.
Knitting Loom: 40 peg large gauge knitting loom. Sample was knit using the Adjustable Hat Loom, set to large gauge and 40 pegs.
Yarn: Approx 110 yards of super bulky weight yarn. Sample was knit using Knit Picks Biggo in Shappire Heather (1 skein).
Notions: Knitting tool, tapestry needle.
Other: Decorative button
Gauge: 11.5 sts x 20 rows = 4 rows in stockinette
K=knit stitch. Recommend the knit stitch or the u-stitch; do not recommend the flat stitch or the ewrap.
P= purl stitch
CO=cast on (Sample uses the ewrap cast on to provide an elastic fit).
GBO=gather bind off
K2tog= knit two stitches together. A right slanting decrease.
P2tog=purl two stitches together.
Brim band is worked separately from the body. Band is mattress stitched to the body after both parts have been knitted.
Set up the Adjustable Hat Loom to 40 pegs, at large gauge: 2 rounded parts, 4 connectors (3 peg), 2 peg rails (9 peg).
Cast on 40 sts, join to work in the round.
Round 1-32: k to the end of round.
Next round: *k2tog; rep from * to the end of rnd.
Move the stitches from the odd numbered pegs to the even numbered pegs. Knit the round, skipping the pegs with no stitches and treating the pegs with two loops as one loop.
Bind off with the gather removal method. As you bind off, gently tug on each of the stitches, starting with the first peg, to remove any of the extra slack in the yarn.
Weave all ends in. Wet block to set the stitches.
Cast on 6 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.
Row 1-8: Sl 1, k1, p2, k2.
Row 9: Sl 1, k1, m1, p2, k2. (7 sts)
Row 10-18: Sl 1, k1, p3, k2.
Row 19: Sl 1, k1, m1, p3, k2. (8 sts)
Row 20-28: Sl 1, k1, p4, k2.
Row 29: Sl1, k1, m1, p4, k2. (9 sts)
Row 30-38: Sl, k1, p5, k2.
Row 39: Sl 1, k1, m1, p5, k2. (10 sts)
Row 40-48: Sl1, k1, p6, k2
Row 49: Sl 1, k1, p2tog, p4, k2. (9 sts)
Row 50-58: Sl 1, k1, p5, k2
Row 59: Sl 1, k1, p2tog, p3, k2. (8 sts)
Row 60-68: Sl 1, k1, p4, k2.
Row 69: Sl 1, k1, p2tog, p2, k2. (7 sts)
Row 70-78: Sl 1, k1, p3, k2.
Row 79: Sl 1, k1, p2tog, p1, k2. (6 sts)
Row 80-88: Sl 1, k1, p2, k2.
Bind off with basic bind off method. Leave a 20 inch yarn tail for seaming.
Wet block BODY and BAND before assembly.
Using yarn tail from the band, mattress stitch seam the band to the cast on edge of the hat. Be sure to seam loosely so the seam is loose. The band is approx an inch longer than the circumference of the hat, secure the band end with the button. Weave ends in. If necessary, wet block again.
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‘Bricolage- something constructed or created from a diverse range of available things.’
Gather a variety of colorful beads, cotton thread, and a few toggle clasp sets; then have a marvelous time creating an assortment of beautiful, unique bracelets.
Knitting Loom: Sock Loom EFG
Yarn: Approximately 6.5 yards of a size 10 thread weight cotton yarn. Aunt Lydia’s Classic Crochet Thread was used in the samples.
Beads: at least 160 beads in a variety of sizes, shapes, and colors. Choose beads with an opening that will easily slide onto the cotton thread. The smallest beads used in the samples were size 6/0. The largest measure about ½” in diameter.
Notions: Knitting tool, scissors, needle, a toggle/clasp set for each bracelet, superglue.
Finished Size: Finished bracelet measures about 6” (including toggle and clasp)
(If a longer bracelet is desired, increase the length of the cotton thread and string additional beads. Every other row has 5 beads in it, so string additional beads in a multiple of 5.)
Gauge: 2 pattern repeats (4 rows) = approximately ¼” in length.
Placing Beads: To place a bead, slide the bead along the working yarn until it reaches the pegs. For this project, the beads will always be placed behind the pegs, between the peg most recently worked and the next peg to be worked.
Once the bead is in place, bring the working yarn around to the front of the next peg to be worked and complete the stitch, locking the bead in place.
Larger beads are added in the same manner as smaller beads. There will be a little extra thread used when adding larger beads. This is accounted for in the amount listed in the materials. The larger beads also take up a bit more space, but they do fit and the added variety makes the bracelet more interesting.
Note: This project is a little bit unique because the right side of the bracelet will actually be facing the inside of the loom, rather than facing toward the knitter. Here is a view looking into the center of the loom at a bracelet in progress:
Take one end of the cotton thread and dip about 1” of it into the glue, then allow it to dry. Using the stiffened end, string 160 beads onto the cotton thread.
Leaving a 5” tail, cast on 6 stitches using the double e-wrap method.
Row 1: P6.
Row 2: K1, [place bead, K1] 5 times.
Row 3: P6.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until all the beads have been placed. Bind off using the basic bind off method. Leave a 5” tail when cutting the thread after bind off.
Thread the needle with one of the thread ends. Whip stitch along the end of the bracelet, until the thread is at the center of the end. Sew through the connecting loop of the toggle, then sew through the end of the bracelet. Sew through the connecting loop again and into the end of the bracelet again. Sew through once more, then continue to whip stitch along the end of the bracelet. Weave the thread end in on the back of the bead work. Repeat this process to sew the clasp to the other end of the bracelet.
Now gather up a new selection of beads and knit a second beautiful bracelet. And a third. And a fourth…