Nov 22, 2014

Aislin Earwarmer

Aislin Earwarmer Side View

The Aislin Earwarmer is a luscious blend of a perfect braid cable with spongy ribbing. The use of merino wool lends this earwarmer a dreamy feel that provides just the perfect amount of warmth to keep the chill away. The earwarmer uses an elastic hairband to provide a comfortable fit.

SIDE NOTE: It is all about cables . I love cables, every knit should have cables. My favorite sweater that I saw my grandma knit was red and it had cables. She is the type of woman that could picture something and make it. She made that red sweater with no pattern at all, just from her head. People would travel from neighboring towns to buy her knits and her crochet items. To this day, I love cables, especially when they are knit with red yarn. I think it reminds me of her and the time I spent learning by her side. I owe everything I am today to my Grandma. My talents come from her, she saw something in me that I didn’t see and thank goodness she was patient enough to teach me.

I would like to express my gratitude to Dayna Scoles, who dreamed the idea of using an elastic hairband to make the headbands adjustable. Check out her neat patterns and the unique way she uses the hairbands on double knit headbands.

Knitting loom: Adjustable Hat Loom, set at large gauge, 20 pegs.

Yarn: Approx 60 yards of superwash merino wool in Aran weight. Cascade 220 Aran weight in Ruby was used in sample.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle, cable needle.

Other: Elastic Hairband

Size: 3 x 19 inches, blocked.

Gauge: 4 sts x 10 rows= 2 inches

AbbreviationsAislin Earwarmer

K: knit stitch

P: purl stitch

St(s): stitch(es)

C4F: Cable over 4 stitches, cable leans to the left.

How to: Skip peg 1 and 2 with yarn towards the back of the pegs. Knit peg 3 and 4. Place stitches from pegs 3 and 4 on cable needle. Take yarn to the front of peg 1. Knit peg 1. Knit peg 2. Place stitch from peg 2 on peg 4. Place stitch from peg 1 on peg 3. Place stitches from cable needle on pegs 1 and 2.

C4B: Cable over 4 stitches, leans to the right.

How to: Place stitches from peg 1 and 2 on cable needle and hold to the back of the pegs.  Knit peg 3 and 4. Place stitch from peg 3 on peg 1; place stitch from peg  4 on peg 2. Place stitches from cable needle on pegs 3 and 4. Knit pegs 3 and 4.



Leave a 10-inch beginning yarn tail, cast on 20 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1-4: [k1, p1]2x, k1, p2, k6, p2, [k1, p1]2x, k1.

*Row 5: [k1, p1]2x, k1, p2, k2, c4f, p2, [k1, p1]2x, k1.

Row 6: [k1, p1]2x, k1, p2, k6, p2, [k1, p1]2x, k1.

Row 7: [k1, p1]2x, k1, p2, c4b, k2, p2, [k1, p1]2x, k1.

Row 8: [k1, p1]2x, k1, p2, k6, p2, [k1, p1]2x, k1.*

Repeat Rows from * to *: 27 more times.

Next 3 rows: [k1, p1]2x, k1, p2, k6, p2, [k1, p1]2x, k1.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Leave a 10-inch yarn tail.

Tighten the cables from the wrong side of the item.

Steam block lightly.


Add the hair band: pass the hair band through one of the ends of the headband. Fold the end of the headband as to cover the hairband, whip stitch the bound off edge to the wrong side of the headband to secure the hairband in place. Repeat with the other side of the headband. Use the pictures below to see how I sewed the elastic hairband in place.

Weave all ends in.

PS: You can also put your hair in a pony tail and pass the pony through the opening created by the elastic hairband! Bonus!!!




  • Isela, this is fabulous! I love cables too….so much! What a very sweet way to remember your grandmother. I’m sure she knows and smiles every time you cable with luscious red yarn. :)

  • Like you, I love anything Cable. I know I will be making this for my daughter-in-law who lives in Germany. Thanks so much for a really great pattern and sharing with all of us.

  • Oh what a good idea! Something I was just thinking about too.

  • Can this be made on an All-N-One? Or on a Knifty Knitter or 10″ Knitting Board? I don’t have a hat loom, but these will make fantastic gifts.


  • With worsted weight yarn, yes. The headband would also end up a lot thinner than the photo shown.

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Nov 17, 2014

Loom FAQS: Which Knit Stitch??


Two questions I see often and seem to cause drama are What knit stitch do I use if the pattern doesn’t specify? and What is the difference between the different knit stitches?  But my favorite is Why are there so many knit stitches in loom knitting?  While it does seem like there are a lot of knit stitches, there are still only two.  Knit and e-wrap knit.  The confusion occurs because there are 3 ways to make a knit stitch.  And all 3 have different tensions.  So let’s discuss each one and then compare all 4 so we can put that drama to rest.

E-wrap Knit Stitch

I will start with the e-wrap knit since it is usually the first stitch a person learns when he or she picks up a loom for the first time.  E-wrap knit is the loosest knit stitch.  It is taller and uses more yarn than a true knit or purl stitch.  It is a twisted stitch so the stitch looks like a y instead of the classic v of the knit stitch.  When worked in a flat panel, the e-wrap knit gives a great texture to the project since the stitches slant in the opposite way on each row.


When worked in the round, the stitches will slant in the direction that you work.

ewrap round

You make an e-wrap knit by bringing the working yarn behind the peg, around to the front of the peg,

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and then on around to the back the peg like a cursive e.

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After the peg is wrapped, the working yarn is behind the peg again.

Then you knit over by bringing the bottom loop up and over the new loop you just made.

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Knit Stitch

The knit stitch can be produced 3 different ways, and the size of the stitch varies with one.

  • True Knit Stitch

Let’s look at the true knit stitch first.  It is also called the traditional knit stitch.  Some people call it a reverse purl even though it’s actually more accurate to call a purl a reverse knit.  It is the same height and width of a purl stitch and is best to use when working alongside purls in the rib, garter, seed, and moss stitches.

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You make a true knit stitch by bringing the working yarn above the existing loop.

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You bring your pick up through the existing loop and catch the working yarn.

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Then pull it down through the loop to create a new loop.

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You then take the old loop off the peg.

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Then place the new loop back on the peg.

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Snug up the yarn by gently tugging the working yarn.

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Why does this look just like a purl stitch?  This stitch is not to be confused with the purl.  While the motions appear to be the same, the purl is worked in reverse.  The working yarn is at the bottom of the existing loop, and the new loop is pulled up from the bottom before taking the old loop off the peg and replacing the new loop on.


  • U-wrap Knit Stitch

Next is the u-wrap knit.  It is shorter and tighter than the true knit stitch.

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You make a u-wrap knit by bringing the working yarn above the existing loop in front of the peg and pulling it straight back behind the peg without completely wrapping it.

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Then pull the bottom loop up

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and over.

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  • Flat Knit Stitch

The last way to create a knit stitch is the tightest and smallest of the knit stitches.  It is the flat knit.  It can get very tight after just a couple of rows.  Flat knit stitch works best with fibers that stretch like wool.  It is extremely hard to use the flat knit on yarn that have no stretch like cotton.

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You work the flat knit by bringing the working yarn across the front of the peg above the existing loop without any wrap of the peg.

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Then bring the existing loop up

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and over.

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I worked 4 swatches using each of the techniques mentioned.  I made all 4 with 16 pegs on the Sock Loom 2 and worked 25 rows using KnitPicks Wool of the Andes worsted weight yarn.  I worked all 4 with the chain cast on and used the basic bind off.  I also slipped the first stitch on each row.

From left to right:  e-wrap knit, true knit, u-wrap knit, and flat knit.

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You can see the difference in size with the e-wrap being the largest and loosest and the flat knit being the smallest and tightest.  You can also see how the chain cast on (at the top) was not tight enough as the stitches got tighter and smaller.  You will need to take your cast on into consideration with whichever knit stitch technique you use.  I controlled my tension on all the swatches by not pulling on the yarn as I worked the stitches.  Each of them could have been made tighter by simply pulling and stretching the yarn.

Here is the gauge I achieved with each swatch.  What is gauge?  Gauge is simply the number of stitches in an inch by the number of rows in an inch.  The more stitches or rows in an inch means the gauge is smaller.  The fewer stitches or rows in an inch means the gauge is larger.  Some patterns will list gauge in a 2” or 4” square.  I will discuss gauge more in next month’s article.  For this demonstration, I will list gauge per inch.

  • E-wrap knit stitch: 3.5 stitches by 5 rows per inch

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  • True knit stitch:  3.75 stitches by 5.5 rows per inch

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  • U-wrap knit stitch:  4 stitches by 6 rows per inch

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  • Flat knit stitch:  5.5 stitches by 7.5 rows per inch

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So as you can see, it makes a big difference in size depending on how the knit stitch is made.  Why can I not use e-wrap on every pattern?  Everyone’s tension is different.  If you were to make the same exact swatch I have, you most likely will have a different gauge.  Designers write their pattern for a certain look or size.  While you can interchange the knit stitch and the e-wrap knit in some patterns, most times it will change the pattern too much in size.  If using the knit stitch, you can adjust your tension by using a different knit stitch technique.  You can also adjust your tension on the flat and u-wrap knit stitches by loosening them as you work the stitches.  I loosen my u-wrap knit by simply pushing the stitch back with my pick after pulling the loop over.  But these swatches were made without loosening the stitches.  They were made as described above.

I hope this helps clarify the knit stitch dilemma and puts the drama to rest.



  • I can not believe I’m reading this today of all days!!! Made myself a pair of e-wrap mittens over the weekend and keep catching the stitches. I was just thinking this am, I wonder how many more rows and pegs I’d have to use if I use a knit stitch instead. Then I think, math, yuk!!! This will be so helpful. Renita to the rescue, again! Thanks for this article.

  • I am looking at your shawl pattern and it says to use a rib stitch. What is that?

  • Need to share with my friend who just began knitting!

  • Needed this — love the comparisons.

  • When knitting in the round with the E-wrap stitch, you can make a reverse E-wrap. If knitting from right to left (counter-clockwise/anti-clockwise) make a loop by twisting the yarn clock wise, and place it on the peg. The end of the yarn will then go behind the peg underneath the yarn coming from the left. This can be used to make rows that reverse as if knitting a flat piece back and forth.

  • ???? Arrgg. In the above post on reverse E-wrap, that should have read, “If knitting from LEFT TO RIGHT”.

    Sorry I have dyslexia, so that must have been my other left, or right, or whatever. ????

  • Fairly new knitter here. So, if a pattern just says knit stitch, how do you decide which stitch to use. I now understand why I could not make a scarf from a pattern in one of the KB books as the stitches were so tight. I really wanted to make the scarf for a gift but gave up.

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