Jun 14, 2014

Market Bag

Farmers Market BagA super expandable bag to carry all the goodness from the Farmers Market back home. The perfect part of this bag is that the bottom of the bag is worked completely in stockinette stitch to prevent the small items from falling through the bottom of the bag; the open eyelets of the bag’s body allows the fruits and veggies plenty of air.

Pattern Information

Knitting loom: All-n-One Knitting loom, 104 pegs used.

Yarn:  Approx 300 yds of worsted weight yarn cotton. Sample used Sugar ‘N Cream Stripes in Mod Stripes.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle.

Size: One size.

AbbreviationsMarket Bag 4

K=knit stitch

P=purl stitch

St(s)=stitches

Rnd(s)=round(s)

BO=Bind off

Rem=remain

Cont=continue

Sl=slip. Skip peg with yarn behind the peg

K2tog=knit two stitches together. Move stitch from the peg on the left to the peg on the right. Work/knit both loops as one loop.

YO=Yarn over. Ewrap peg on the row that calls to YO, on the next row when you need to knit the stitch, undo the ewrap and lay the yarn flat in front of the peg.

INSTRUCTIONSMarket Bag 2

Cast on 104 sts, join to work in the round.

Rnd 1, 3, 5: k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 2, 4, 6: p to the end of rnd.

Next round: k to the end of round.

Next round: *yo, k2tog; rep from * to the end of round.

Rep last two rounds until bag measures approx 16 inches from cast on edge (2 skeins of yarn would have been used at this point).

Next round: p to the end of round.

Next 15 rounds: k to the end of round.

Next round: *k2tog; rep from * to the end of round. (52 sts rem). Tip: Transfer the stitches to a piece of scrap yarn, reset the knitting loom to the new peg number (52) then put the stitches back on.

Next round: k to the end of round.

Next round: *k2tog; rep from * to the end of round (26 sts rem).

Next round: k to the end of round.

Bind off with gather removal method—be careful, cotton yarn breaks, tug gently as you cinch the bottom of the bag. Weave ends in.

Handle

Leave a 10 inch yarn tail at beginning of slip knot, cast on 6sts, prepare to work a flat panel

Row 1: sl1, k to the end of row.

Row 2: sl1, p to the end of row.

Rep Rows 1 and 2 until handle measures 20 inches.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Leave a 10 inch yarn tail.

Using yarn tails from the handle, mattress stitch the handle to the bag. Weave ends in.

 

 

18 Comments

  • I am using the Tadpole and do not understand how to get started. I have the Kb A fine gauge knitting board and want to make a Bear. Can anyone help me get started?

  • Love this , but how big is it. ? can it be made larger? :)

  • It is about 22 inches long and width, it expands quite a bit.

  • Any tips on the k2tog? The stiches seem really tight especially when moving the left stich to the right peg.

  • When I do my k2tog, I am usually working from right to left (clockwise on the knitting loom), therefore, I move my right stitch to the left, then I knit the peg. My only suggestion is to work the previous row loosely.

  • When you have the line
    Next round: *yo, k2tog; rep from * to the end of round.
    Does this mean that the 1st peg should be yo’ed and the next peg should be k2tog, or does that mean to do these two things to each peg? I really want to make this bag for my sisters wedding present and need to know the answer as soon as possible. Thank you.

  • Yes. Move stitch from the first peg to the second peg, ewrap first peg, then knit peg 2; repeat the process all around.

  • Thank you, Isela, I actually watched a YouTube video last night and figured it out, I was anxious to get started last night, but now I might pull all the rows out and start over, because I do not have the AIO loom so I have been improvising with the MS loom and the configuration seems too tight on the ends to really make work, so going to try to make the loom an oval and see if that works better. Next question though, have you worked with the MS loom, would you suggest I use the bigger pegs and space them out more? Any suggestions on this?

  • Somehow I don’t believe this only takes 300 yards of yarn to complete, since I have already used 300 yards of yarn and only have 7 inches of the bag done. Maybe I am being too tight, but seriously, just brought another 300 yards to finish.

  • I only used 3 skeins for the body and a little bit more of a 4th skein for the handle, each skein is about 95 yds.

  • This is very interesting. Maybe the difference has to do with adaptation, of using the MS loom as opposed to the AIO loom, because when I started I didn’t have the AIO loom. Maybe the gauging is different by that much. I am using the Sugar n’ Cream 95 yard skeins of yarn, it has just taken me a lot more yarn to complete. It looks really cool though so far though. I really like it, just that didn’t anticipate would take this much yarn so didn’t buy enough of same dye lot yarn so now having to weave the brighter and different dye lot stuff into the project. I will post a picture when I am done of what mine looks like, and maybe you can tell me the difference between the two. Thank you for your help.

  • Ok, I think I figured out the difference, I am making stitches that are or probably were a lot tighter than yours are for the bag, I just added in the other dye lot and I thought I cut enough of original dye lot to complete the two rounds to complete the stitch and the yarn only made it half way around for first round of the stitch.

  • That is very interesting. Are you using the same number of pegs? I will inquire to have the bag weighed and redo the math, but I know that I only purchased that many skeins (from the receipt I have).

  • Here are some pictures of what my project looks like at this point. I am using the MS loom and not the AIO loom that you do for this project, but that shouldn’t make that much difference, I think the gauge is very close if not the same as each other. I did have to add 4 pegs to make the configuration work better, but that doesn’t seem that it would make that big a difference either, not of like 300 yards of yarn to make the same bag. Ok so I can’t seem to post pictures here. Maybe I will try to send the pictures to you through Facebook, just so you know they are coming.

  • Ok, Isela, I figured out with the help of some people from Facebook looming groups, a second pair of eyes, what happened, and why I was using so much more yarn than you, the two rows that make up the 16 inches, I was doing them backwards, I was doing the k2tog 1st, and the knit row last, and not doing the yarn over part at all. That was what was making mine tighter and taking so much yarn. Thanks for your help though, and sorry for any problem…

  • Oh, I see! Yeah, that will use it more yarn. I am so glad you figured it out. I wish the comments could upload pictures, it would make it easier to see.

  • And now, you have an original bag!!! :)

  • That is right!!! When I am done, I will have an original bag, and I think that is kind of cool… Thanks to you though in a lot of ways, because I did look at your pattern and miss read it, if it weren’t for me finding your pattern and thinking it was cool, and then reading it backward, I wouldn’t have created this original pattern… Thanks again…

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Jun 7, 2014

Father’s Day Tie

Tie
The most thoughtful gifts are those that come from the heart, those that we take the time to put our love into them, this Father’s Day, knit Dad a tie in his favorite color.  

Pattern Information

Knitting loom: Sock Loom 2 or All-n-One knitting loom (the pattern uses 13 pegs)

Yarn:  Approx 100 yds of worsted weight yarn in cotton blend. Sample used Knit Picks Comfy in Worsted, color Planetarium.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle.

Gauge: 10 sts x 19 rows= 2 inches in seed stitch.

Size: Approx—60 inches long by 2.5 inches (at widest point).

Abbreviations

K=knit stitch

P=purl stitch

St(s)=stitches

BO=Bind off

Rem=remain

Cont=continue

Tie3

M1=Make one—to create an increase in the knitting. Reach for the bar between the two stitches, twist the bar, place the bar on the empty peg thus creating an extra stitch. Note: you will need to move the stitches outwards to create the empty peg needed for the increase; move the stitches first, then create the increase with the M1 method.

CDD=central double decrease, knit three stitches together. Move stitch from the peg on the left to the center peg, move the stitch from the peg on the right to the center peg.  Work/knit all loops as one loop. In this pattern—move all the other stitches inwards so there are no empty pegs.

Pattern note: we recommend using a cotton base yarn so the tie has little elasticity, so it is easier to tie the knot and slide the knot up and down. The seed stitch used throughout the tie, keeps the tie from rolling up. 

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 7 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1: *k1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 2: *p1, k1; rep from * to last st, p1.

Rep Rows 1 and 2 until it measures 18 inches from cast on edge.

Next row is a decrease row to create the thinner part of the tie that goes around the neck.

Next row: k1, p1, CDD, p1, k1 (5 sts rem).

Next row: *p1, k1; rep from * to last st, p1.

Next row: *k1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.

Rep last two rows, for 10 inches.

On the next clockwise row, create an increase row to begin the wider part of the tie.

Next row: k1, p1, m1, p1, m1, p1, k1 (7 sts on the loom).

Next row: *p1, k1; rep from * to last st, p1.

Next row: *k1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.

Rep last two rows for 4 inches.

On the next clockwise row, create an increase row to continue the wider part of the tie.Tie2

Next row: k1, p1, k1, m1, p1, m1, k1, p1, k1 (9sts on the loom).

Next row: *p1, k1; rep from * to last st, p1.

Next row: *k1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.

Rep last two rows for 6 inches.

On the next clockwise row, create an increase row to continue the wider part of the tie.

Next row: k1, p1, k1, p1, m1, k1, m1, p1, k1, p1, k1.  (11sts on the loom).

Next row: *p1, k1; rep from * to last st, p1.

Next row: *k1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.

Repeat last 2 rows for 8 inches.

On the next clockwise row, create an increase row to continue the wider part of the tie.

Next row: k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, m1, p1, m1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1.   (13sts on the loom).

Next row: *p1, k1; rep from * to last st, p1.Tie4

Next row: *k1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.

Repeat last 2 rows for 14 inches.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Weave ends in. Block lightly.

 

 

 

 

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May 30, 2014

Summer Wrap/ Scarf

Lace_wrapcropThis summer fashion wrap can also be worn as a traditional scarf.  We use fun lightweight yarns and unique stitch variations.  Each design is simply a different yarn and stitch weave pattern.  You can make several of them to wear over sundresses, and t-shirts and shorts.

 Loom:  10” Knitting Board, with 22 stitches for double knit.  Set spacers at mid width or ¾” between boards.

 Yarn:  Any #2 or 3 yarn of acrylic or cotton/acrylic blend.  Our sample is knit with Bernat Baby Coordinates of acrylic/rayon/nylon, machine wash and dry.  (1) skein, 388 yds.  Color is Soft Grey.

 Notions Needed:  Loom, yarn, knit hook, crochet hook #4-4.5.

 Finished Size:  9” X 60” approximately

 Gauge:  Not noted

 Stitch Pattern:

 1-Open the pins-starting at first pin on top board, lift loop 1 onto pin 2.  Lift loop 3 onto pin 4.  Lift loop 5 onto pin 6 and continue across all 22 pins so that every other pin is empty. 

 2-Turn the board around, and open the pins for these 22 pins.  Be sure to start at this first pin also.  Both sides of loom have every other pin empty and off-set from the 2 sides.

 

summershawl

 

3-Work across all pins in stockinette weave, so that all pins are wrapped again. 

 

4-Hook over only the pins with the 3 loops lifting 2 loops over and leaving just one loop on the pins.  Do nothing to the pins with just one loop.

 

 

Instructions:

 Cast On all 22 stitches in basic stockinette stitch.  Lay anchor yarn of contrasting color yarn.

summershawl2Remember when hooking over the loops to work from L to R to approximate center.  Then work from R to L back to center.  Do same thing to other side of board.  This will keep the side edges even.

 Work the Stitch Pattern, steps 1-4 until the scarf/wrap is as long as desired, or until you have used the entire ball of yarn.  Using the entire ball will result in length of 60-64” long piece.  Cut yarn with 3-4” tail.

 Bind Off of knitting board: Use crochet hook for bind off starting at end opposite the yarn tail.  Pick up loops 1 & 2 from top board and pull loop closest to hook thru the other.  With just one loop on crochet hook, pick up the first loop from front board.  Pull loop closest to hook thru the other.  Pick up next loop from front board and pull one thru the other.  Continue working the 2 loops from back board, and 2 loops from front board until just one loop remains on crochet hook.  Pull the yarn tail thru the last loop to form a knot.  With crochet hook, pull the yarn tail into the solid edge of the knit.

 

Bind Off at anchor yarn: Start at end opposite the yarn tail.  With crochet hook, pick up first 2 loops.  Pull loop closest to hook thru the other.  Pick up next loop and repeat across the stitches on the anchor yarn.  When only one loop remains on hook, pull yarn tail thru loop to form knot.  Tuck yarn tail into knit with hook.

Finishing:  Gently stretch the knit from long sides to open the knit.  Work down the piece, gently stretching the stitches open.  Your great summer accessory is ready to wear.  You may also want to add a decorative stick pin to secure the wrap, so it stays closed while sitting in your favorite restaurant.

 Fun variations:

This fishnet pattern makes a nice open, scrunchy scarf or wrap to wear any time of year.

summershawl4

 

Yarn:  Loops and Threads Elegance, 100% acrylic, easy wash and air dry in 30 minutes.  (1) skein needed of 160 yds.  Color used is Poppy.

Stitch Pattern:

1-Open the pins-starting at first pin on top board, lift loop 1 onto pin no. two.Lift loop 3 onto pin 4.  Lift loop 5 onto pin 6 and continue across all 22 pins so that every other pin is empty. 

 

2-Do not turn the board around to work on front board.  Lift the 2nd loop and place onto 3rd pin.  Lift 4th loop and place onto 5th pin.  Continue across the 22 pins so that every other pin is empty.

 

summershawl53-Work across all pins in stockinette weave, so that all pins are wrapped again. 

 4-Hook over the pins with the 3 loops lifting 2 loops over and leaving just one loop on the pins.  If your pin has 2 loops, lift bottom over top.  Do nothing to the pins with just one loop.

 

Repeat steps 1-4 till wrap is as long as desired.

White with Silver Threads wrap is perfect with summer sun dresses as a shoulder wrap. 

summershawl7

summershawl6

It also makes a great accessory worn with your red holiday sweaters later in the year.  You will get so much wear from this piece.  It knits up really quickly and is easy care.

 

Yarn:Patons Glam Stripes, 85% acrylic and 15% polyester, machine wash and air dry. (1) skein of 261 yds will do the piece nicely.  Color used is White Silver.  The metallic threads will give a slight stripe effect.  Very pretty. Finished size is approximately 8” X 68”.  No gauge noted.

Stitch Pattern:

1-This piece is worked entirely with the Open Braid stitch.  After cast on of the 22 stitches, lay anchor yarn.  Weave from top first pin to bottom 4th pin.  Continue across the loom weaving every other pin till you get to end.  Carry yarn straight across to back and weave back, wrapping all the pins that were skipped.

2-Hook over all pins on both sides of loom, bottom loop over top loop. Continue steps 1 and 2 until you have used the entire skein of yarn.  Bind off.

Summer wraps and scarves also make a great accent when worn around your hips over long cotton skirts.  Just have lots of fun with them.

 

2 Comments

  • I am trying to buy the 5 peg sliders but can’t find them in a store and I didn’t want to pay $12 to ship a $5 item. Please let me know if anyone can assist me with this. Thanks

  • Hi, I think you live in Australia, correct? The shipping is crazy when items are going to countries outside of US. The only thing you can do is locate others in your area that may want something also and combine your orders for shipping. The item you seek is currently not sold to stores. Another thing you can do is ask your favorite knit or craft store to consider being a distributor and carry a few products. We could send your item with theirs. You can also send your address to us at info@knittingboard.com and ask for a first class rate on mailing and we can do a search for you and see if a better rate exists.

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May 23, 2014

Father’s Day Slippers

 

Fathers-Day-slippers1Gift Dad the perfect, comfy, warm, no frills pair of slippers. Worked with bulky weight yarn, using two pegs as one on the knitting loom, will have you cranking out a pair in one afternoon.
PS: Sometimes, finding a willing male to photograph their feet is the most difficult part of the task. 

Pattern Information

Knitting loom: All-n-One Knitting loom, 80 pegs (use 2 pegs as one).

Yarn:  Approx 106 yds of Super Bulky weight yarn. Sample used Wool Ease Thick & Quick in Charcoal.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle.

Size: S (M, L). Approx American men shoe size—S-8-9.5; M-9.5-11; L-11-12.5. Shown in a size S.

Gauge: 4 sts x 8 rows= 2 inches in stockinette

Abbreviations

K=knit stitch

P=purl stitch

St(s)=stitches

Rnd(s)=round(s)

BO=Bind off

Rem=remain

Cont=continue

Sl=slip. Skip peg with yarn behind the peg

K2tog=knit two stitches together. Move stitch from the peg on the left to the peg on the right. Work/knit both loops as one loop.

INSTRUCTIONSslippers_sam

Leave a 20 inch yarn tail at the beginning of the slip knot. Using 80 (88, 96) pegs total, use 2 pegs as one peg, cast on 40 (44, 48) sts, join to work in the rnd.

Rnd 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11: k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12: p to the end of rnd.

Small Size—Go to *

Medium and Large Size

Rnd 13: k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 14: p to the end of rnd.

Medium Size—Go to *

Large Size only

Rnd 15: k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 16: p to the end of rnd.

Large size—go to *

*Next 4 rnds: k to the end of rnd.

BO 15 (16, 17) sts, k to the end rnd.

BO 15 (16, 17) sts, k to the end of rnd. (10 (12, 14)sts rem)

From this point on, cont working as a flat panel over the rem 10 (12, 14) sts.

Next row: sl1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

Next 6 (7, 8) rows: k to the end of the row.

BO leaving a 10 inch yarn tail. Use yarn tail to seam down this side of the instep flap. Thread tapestry needle with yarn and seam down the other side of the instep flap. Thread tapestry needle with beginning yarn tail, seam the bottom of the sole close. Weave ends in. Block if necessary.

Note: To make them less slippery, use Puffy Fabric Paint to place a few dots under the sole.

 

 

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May 16, 2014

Pencil Bookmark

pencil bookmark

Quick and fun thank you gifts for teachers at the end of the school year, this project can be used as a bookmark or decoration.

Pattern Specifications

Knitting Loom: Sock Loom 2Bookmark

Yarn:
25 yards total of Sport/DK or light worsted weight yarn in 5 colors
• Color A (CA) 3 yards – eraser pink – used Caron Simply Soft Victorian Rose
• Color B (CB) 5 yards – metal ring – used Caron Simply Soft Grey Heather
• Color C (CC) 14 yards – yellow pencil – used Caron Simply Soft Sunshine
• Color D (CD) 2 yards – sharpened wood – used Caron Simply Soft Bone
• Color E (CE) 1 yard – lead – used Caron Simply Soft Charcoal Heather

Notions:
Knitting tool

Gauge:
not critical for this project

Measurements:
12.5” x 3”

Abbreviations
K = Knit
P =Purl
Sl =Slip—skip peg with yarn behind the peg
CDD= Central double decrease—working with 3 stitches, move the stitches on either side of the center peg onto the center peg so that there are 3 loops on the center peg. Knit all three loops together as one. Move remaining stitches in so there are not any empty pegs.
CO= Chain Cast on
BO= Bind off
Rep = Repeat

INSTRUCTIONS Bookmark2

With CA, CO 11 stitches
Row 1: Sl1, K10
Row 2: Sl1, P9, K1
Rows 3: 6 – Rep rows 1 – 2, 2 times
Row 7: Sl1, K10
Row 8: Sl1, P9, End CA, Join CB, with CB, K1
Rows 9 – 22: Rep rows 1 – 2, 7 times
Row 23: Sl1, K10
Row 24: Sl1, P9, End CB, Join CC, with CC, K1
Rows 25 – 78: Rep rows 1 – 2, 27 times
Row 79: Sl1, K10
Row 80: Sl1, P9, End CC, Join CD, with CD, K1
Row 81: Sl1, K3, CDD, K4
Row 82: Sl1, P7, K1
Row 83: Sl1, K8
Row 84: Sl1, P7, K1
Row 85: Sl1, K2, CDD, K3
Row 86: Sl1, P5, K1
Row 87: Sl1, K6
Row 88: Sl1, P5, K1
Row 89: Sl1, K1, CDD, K2
Row 90: Sl1, P3, K1
Row 91: Sl1, K4
Row 92: Sl1, P3, End CD, Join CE, with CE, K1
Row 93: Sl1, CDD, K1
Row 94: Sl1, P1, K1
Row 95: Sl1, K2
Row 96: Sl1, P1, K1
Row 97: CDD

BO by pulling working yarn through last stitch.
Weave ends in.

 

 

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May 9, 2014

Anwell Capelet

Anwell Capelet 1

A little capelet to keep the chill away. Worked in short-rows to create a semi-circular shape at the back. 

Knitting Loom: All-n-One Knitting loom, use two pegs as one peg to create a large gauge knitting loom with at least 30 pegs (60 total) for child, 40 (80 total) for adult.

Yarn: 200 (600) grams of Bulky Weight yarn. Rowan Big Wool was used in sample, 2 skeins. (Malabrigo Chunky was used in adult sample).

Notions: knitting tool, 1 inch button, 1 set of snap button.

Gauge: 11 stitches and 18 rows=4 inches in stockinette stitch (Remember to use 2 pegs as one on the All-n-One Knitting loom).
Measurements: 25 (from side to side) x 14 (back of neck to edge) inches.

Fits: 3-5 years old (adult)

Abbreviations
k: knit
p:purl
WT: wrap & turn
sts: stitches
rep:repeat
Pattern note: Instructions within () pertain to adult size

DIRECTIONSAnwell Capelet

Cast on 30 (40) stitches with crochet cast on method (remember that you are using 2 pegs as one on the knitting loom, so for the child size, you will be using 60 pegs total; adult 40 pegs).
Create the ribbing edge as follows:
Next row: *k2, p2; rep from * to the last 2sts, k2
Next row: *k2, p2; rep from * to the last 2sts, k2
Repeat last 2 rows: 2 times (4 times).

Wedge instructions

Row 1: k to the end of row
Row 2: Sl1, k26 (k36), WT
Row 3: k27 (k37)
Row 4: Sl1, k23 (k33), WT
Row 5: k24 (k34)
Row 6: Sl1, k20 (k30), WT
Row 7: k21 (k31)
Row 8: Sl1, k17 (k27), WT
Row 9: k18 (k28)
Row 10: Sl1, k14 (k24), WT
Row 11: k15 (k25)
Row 12: Sl1, k11 (k21), WT
Row 13: k12 (k22)
Row 14: Sl1, k8 (k18), WT
Row 15: k9 (k19)
Row 16: Sl1, k5 (k15), WT
Row 17: k6 (k16)
Adult size:
Row 18: Sl1, k12, WT
Row 19: k13
Row 20: Sl1, k9, WT
Row 21: k10

All sizes:
Next row: Sl1, p to the end of row picking up all the wraps along the way
Next row: k to the end of row

One wedge completed.

Child size: work 9 wedges.
Adult size: work 13 wedges.

Last wedge: rep Rows 2-17 (2-21).
Next row: Sl1, k to the end of row picking up all the wraps along the way.
Next row: knit to the end of row.

Create ribbing edge as follows:

Next: *k2, p2; rep from * to last 2 stitches, k2.
Cast on 6 stitches at the beginning of next row. (Adult size: please see Adding Pegs to a Fixed peg loom video)
Next: *p2, k2; rep from * to the end of row.
Next: *k2, p2; rep from * to the end of row.
Rep last 2 rows: 2 times (4 times).

Bind off with basic bind off method.
Assembly
Seam the collar edge to the body of the capelet and to the other edge of the ribbing edge. Steam block.

Decoration: attach the 1 inch button on the right side of the ribbed collar, at about the 3rd rib from the edge. Secure a snap button on the wrong side of the collar, again, at about the 3rd rib from the edge. ?

 

 

 

8 Comments

  • This is so cute. Can’t wait to make it.

  • Thank you, Isela, for this adorable pattern that my granddaughter will love! If you recommend an AIO loom and are wrapping it in such a way that it mimics a large-gauge loom, is it safe to assume that if I have a large-gauge loom with a sufficient number of pegs that I could use that instead? I don’t have the AIO.

    Thanks again!

  • It looks like it would work on a regular-gauge loom. 2 pegs = 1 peg, so I don’t see why not. Wouldn’t hurt to try :)

  • Yes, it would work on a large gauge loom, not regular, but large gauge.

  • We should do this as a loom along on Facebook. I would love to make his but i am not sure it would come out as it is suppose to.

  • We will consider it for a future loom-a-long.

  • Can anyone help me out with the afghan loom? I have started over several times, but the knit is so tight that I am afraid the pegs will break. What am I doing wronge? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

  • Knit one peg at a time. After casting on, knit one peg at a time, wrapping the entire loom and then lifting the stitches can make the stitches really tight. Also, you may want to try a yarn that has a natural fiber content, like wool, so it has some inherent elasticity and has a bit more give.

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