Aug 2, 2014

Pom Pom Socks

Pom Pom Socks Picture

Happy feet all around with this cute Pom Pom socks! Knit an adorable pair of socks for the little tikes.

Knitting Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Sock Loom 2.

Yarn:  200-400 yards of DK weight yarn, (amount depends on length of sock). Sample was knit with Yarntini Vintage.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle, 2 double pointed needles size 2.

Size:   Two sizes provided, 2-4 (4-6) years. Approx foot circumference 10 (12) inches. When only one set of instructions is provided, follow same instructions for both sizes. Instructions for larger sizes will be given in ( ).

Gauge: 11 sts x 23 rows= 2 inches

Abbreviations

K=knit stitch (may substitute with flat stitch or U-stitch but not ewrap).

P=purl stitch

St(s)=stitches

BO=Bind off

Rem=remain

Cont=continue

Rnd=round

Sl=slip. Skip peg with yarn behind the peg

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 48 (52) pegs and join to knit in the round

Round 1: k to the end of round.

Repeat row 1 until piece measures approximately 1.5 (2) inches from cast on edge (about 18 (23) rounds).

Continue to heel instructions

HEEL INSTRUCTIONS
Please go to charts below and follow the heel instructions for the desired size sock. The heel is worked on only the first half of the stitches on the loom, 24 (26) pegs. Worked as a flat panel in short-rows to create the cup for the heel.

Once heel is complete, you will continue working in the round for the instep and sole of the sock as follows:

Next round: k to the end of the round.

Repeat last round until item measures 1.5 (2) inches less than desired sock length

Next: Follow Heel instructions exactly to create the cup for the toe area.

Closing the toe area

After completion of the heel instructions, prepare to close the toe area as follows:  Place half of the stitches on a double pointed needle, and the remainder half of the stitches on the second double pointed needle. Cut the working yarn leaving about a 20 inch tail to use to close the toe area.

Use the Kitchener Stitch to close the toe.

Finishing: Weave all yarn tail ends. Block lightly.

Pom Pom: Make 2 pom poms with the method of choice (we provide a method here) and securely sew to the back of the rolled edge.

PomPom Socks

2 Comments

  • very sad, I know some work on the loom, but I know the points.

  • Isela, you can show me a video that teaches how to make purse and swetter. I admire you so much. Thank you.

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Jul 25, 2014

Summer Headbands

Anchor_Headband2blogTwo stylish headbands to keep your hair in place  while you are out and about enjoying the summer.

The first one is the Anchor’s Away Headband,  a great beginner lace project. It introduces the basics of moving stitches to different pegs to create eyelets that give lace its open effect. The Lulu Headband is a fantastic, quick project that will add a touch of intricacy without its complications.

Anchor’s Away Headband

A lovely headband that will introduce you to beginning lace. 

Knitting Loom: Sock Loom 2, 19 pegs used.

Yarn:  Approx 70 yds of worsted weight yarn cotton. Sample used Knit Picks Swish Worsted in Amythest Heather.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle, 2 double pointed needles size US 5, crochet hook size H.

Other: 1 small buttons

Size: 4” wide x 17” long

Gauge: 9 sts x 15 rows= 2 inches

Abbreviations

K=knit stitch

P=purl stitch

St(s)=stitches

BO=Bind off

Rem=remain

Cont=continue

Sl=slip. Skip peg with yarn behind the peg

K2tog=knit two stitches together. Move stitch from the peg on the left to the peg on the right. Work/knit both loops as one loop.

YO=Yarn over. Ewrap peg on the row that calls to YO, on the next row when you need to knit the stitch, undo the ewrap and lay the yarn flat in front of the peg.

Pattern note: Headband is worked in two parts, half and half, then joined at the center.

INSTRUCTIONSAnchors Away Back small
(make 2)

Leave a 20 inch beginning yarn tail to use for the button loop.

Cast on 19 sts, work a flat panel.

Row 1: sl1, k to the end of row.

Row 2: sl1, p to the end of row.

Row 3: sl1, k to the end of row.

Row 4: sl1, p to the end of row.

*Row 5: sl1, k2, yo, k5, CDD, k5, yo, k3.

How to: Move stitch from peg 9 to peg 10. Move stitch from peg 11 to peg 10. Three stitches are on peg 10. Move stitch from peg 8 to 9, from peg 7 to 8, from peg 6 to 7, from peg 5 to 6, from peg 4 to 5. Move stitch from peg 12 to 11, from peg 13 to 12, from peg 14 to 13, from peg 15 to 14, from peg 16 to 15. Pegs 4 and 16 are empty. Now that the stitches have been moved, you are ready to work the row as instructed.

Row 6: sl1, p to the end of the row.

Row 7: sl1, k3, yo, k4, CDD, k4, yo, k4.

How to: Move stitch from peg 9 to peg 10. Move stitch from peg 11 to peg 10. Three stitches are on peg 10. Move stitch from peg 8 to 9, from peg 7 to 8, from peg 6 to 7, from peg 5 to 6. Move stitch from peg 12 to 11, from peg 13 to 12, from peg 14 to 13, from peg 15 to 14. Pegs 5 and 15 are empty. Now that the stitches have been moved, you are ready to work the row as instructed.

Row 8: sl1, p to the end of the row.

Row 9: sl1, k4, yo, k3, CDD, k3, yo, k5.

How to: Move stitch from peg 9 to peg 10. Move stitch from peg 11 to peg 10. Three stitches are on peg 10. Move stitch from peg 8 to 9, from peg 7 to 8, from peg 6 to 7. Move stitch from peg 12 to 11, from peg 13 to 12, from peg 14 to 13. Pegs 6 and 14 are empty. Now that the stitches have been moved, you are ready to work the row as instructed.

Row 10: sl1, p to the end of the row.

Row 11: sl1, k5, yo, k2, CDD, k2, yo, k6.

How to: Move stitch from peg 9 to peg 10. Move stitch from peg 11 to peg 10. Three stitches are on peg 10. Move stitch from peg 8 to 9, from peg 7 to 8. Move stitch from peg 12 to 11, from peg 13 to 12. Pegs 7 and 13 are empty. Now that the stitches have been moved, you are ready to work the row as instructed.

Row 12: sl1, p to the end of the row.

Row 13: sl1, k6, yo, k1, CDD, k1, yo, k7.Anchors Away small

How to: Move stitch from peg 9 to peg 10. Move stitch from peg 11 to peg 10. Three stitches are on peg 10. Move stitch from peg 8 to 9. Move stitch from peg 12 to 11. Pegs 8 and 12 are empty. Now that the stitches have been moved, you are ready to work the row as instructed.

Row 14: sl1, p to the end of the row.

Row 15: sl1, k7, yo, CDD, yo, k8.

How to: Move stitch from peg 9 to peg 10. Move stitch from peg 11 to peg 10. Three stitches are on peg 10. Pegs 9 and 11 are empty. Now that the stitches have been moved, you are ready to work the row as instructed.

Row 16: sl1, p to the end of the row.*

Repeat from * to *: 5 more times

Place these 19 sts onto one of the double pointed needles, cut yarn leaving a 20 inch yarn tail.

Once both halves of the headband are completed, use the kitchener stitch to join both sides together at the center.

Option: If you prefer not to do a kitchener stitch, bind off the 19 stitches after completing each half. Once completed, use the mattress stitch to join both halves together.

FINISHING

Thread tapestry needle with yarn, at the center point where the two halves were joined, gather it into three small folds, using the tapestry needle, sew the pleat down.

Button loop-using crochet hook and one of the beginning yarn tails, single crochet along the triangle  until you reach the pointed edge, chain 4 at the point to create the button loop, then continue single crochet along to the end of the triangle point.

Button—on the opposite side, at the point, secure a small decorative button.

Block to open up the eyelets in the lace.

 

Divider

Lulu HeadbandGreen Headband2blog

A lovely and easy headband that displays a center gathered with icords.

Knitting Loom: Sock Loom 2, 12 pegs used.

Yarn:  Approx 60 yds of worsted weight yarn cotton. Sample used Knit Picks Swish Worsted in Green Tea Heather.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle, crochet hook size H.

Other: 2 small buttons

Size: 2.25” wide x 17” long

Gauge: 9 sts x 18 rows= 2 inches

Abbreviations

K=knit stitch

P=purl stitch

St(s)=stitches

BO=Bind off

Rem=remainGreen Headband3blog

Cont=continue

Sl=slip. Skip peg with yarn behind the peg

INSTRUCTIONS

Cast on 12 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1: sl1, k to the end of row.

Row 2: sl1, p to the end of row.

Row 3: sl1, k to the end of row.

Row 4: sl1, p to the end of row.

Row 5: sl1, k to the end of the row.

Row 6: sl1, p1, k8, p2.

Rep Rows 5 and 6: until you reach Row 60.

From this point on, we will be working on two pegs at a time to create the icords for the center.

Icord 1: Over the first two pegs (pegs 1 and 2), work a 2 st icord that is 35 rows long. Cut yarn and join yarn at peg 3.

Icord 2: Work a 2 st icord over peg 3 and 4 that is 35 rows long. Cut yarn and join yarn at peg 5.

Icord 3: Work a 2 st icord over peg 5 and 6 that is 35 rows long. Cut yarn and join yarn at peg 7.

Icord 4: Work a 2 st icord over peg 7 and 8 that is 35 rows long. Cut yarn and join yarn at peg 9.

Icord 5: Work a 2 st icord over peg 9 and 10 that is 35 rows long. Cut yarn and join yarn at peg 11.

Icord 6: Work a 2 st icord over peg 11 and 12 that is 35 rows long. Cut yarn and join yarn at peg 1.

With yarn back at peg 1, we are ready to begin working over all 12 sts again.

Next row (over all 12 pegs): sl1, k to the end of the row.

Next row: sl1, p1, k8, p2

Rep last two rows 25 more times (a total of 52 rows).

Next row: sl1, k to the end of the row.

Next row: sl1, p to the end of the row.

Next row: sl1, k to the end of the row.

Next row: sl1, p to the end of the row.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Leave a 20 inch yarn tail for the button loops.

Button Loops

Using the crochet hook and the yarn tail from the BO edge, single crochet 3sts, work 4 chains, single crochet 2 sts, work 4 chains, single crochet 3sts. Bind off.

On the cast on edge, secure two buttons so they line up with the button loops

FINISHING

Weave in all the yarn tail ends from the icords.

Block lightly.

Gently gather all 6 icords at the center. Using tapestry needle and yarn, secure all 6 icords together at the center. Weave ends in.

Optional: add a decorative bead to the center of the headband.

 

8 Comments

  • In regards to the icords; how do you cut the yarn and then join with the next peg? Thanks!

  • I so love these, thanks for sharing.

  • Just cut the yarn leaving a 6 inch tail. Join to the next peg by making a slip knot and placing it on the peg.

  • Which knit stitch is being used in the Lulu Headband?

  • Can these be done on any of the knifty knitter looms???? thank you

  • The knit stitch (opposite of a purl stitch).

  • If they have small gauge enough, such as the AiO knitting loom.

  • […] Loom Knit Anchor Headband Pattern […]

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Jul 19, 2014

Summer Rose Headband

Easy and Quick to knit up.  School colors make it outstanding.

Everyone needs to keep their ears warm when ole’ winter comes again, and look so cute at the same time.  Our warm headband is knit with 2 colors of worsted weight yarn, partial skeins and adorned with a simple crochet flower and secured with a ½” button.

headbandflower (3)

Loom:  Tadpole knitting board

Yarn:  Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice, 100% acrylic worsted weight was used.  This headband only requires 1/2 skein of each yarn, so any washable worsted weight yarn should do a great job.

Stitches:  Stockinette and Rib.

Size:  20” stretched slightly and is 3.5” wide.  This should fit most young girls.

Notions Needed:  Knit hook, crochet hook, (1) button, 1/2″ .

 

 

 

Instructions:

Cast On (4) stitches in stockinette with pink yarn.  Lay anchor yarn of any yarn.

Work in stockinette stitch for (6) rows.

Increase row:  Move stitch #1 over to empty pin.  Lift previous stitch from pin #2 onto the empty pin.  Do this to both sides of loom and both ends.  You now have 2 additional stitches on loom.  Weave all pins and hook over.

Work (1) increase row and (1) regular row.  Repeat these (2) rows 3 more times so that there are (12) sts on the loom.

Once you have (12) stitches on loom, you are ready to change to 2nd color yarn (purple) and knit in rib stitch.  Cut yarn with 3-4” tail.  Tie on 2nd yarn at 2nd pin, attaching to  pink yarn.  Trim and tuck this yarn tail.

Work in rib stitch for 38 rows or until the center of headband is as long as you want it.

Cut 2nd yarn and tie the 1st yarn back on.  Change to stockinette stitch for remainder of headband.

Work this section same as beginning section except do decrease rows rather than increase rows, so that you end up with only (4) stitches.

Decrease row:  Place the 2nd loop onto 3rd pin.  Place the 1st loop onto empty pin.  Do this to both sides of loom and both ends.  You now have 2 sts less on loom.  Weave all pins and hook over being sure to pick up both loops on 2nd pins.  This will leave (1) loop on all pins.

Work (1) decrease row and (1) regular row.  Repeat these (2) rows 3 more times so that there are (4) sts on the loom.

Work (6) rows in stockinette stitch.  Bind off.  Tuck yarn tail into knit.  Bind off at anchor yarn.  Sew the (2) short ends with 4 sts together to close up the headband.

Flower is single crochet secured with pretty button.  Make this with the pink yarn for contrast.    Sew your flower to top of headband.  Options can be a pom-pom, a felt flower, or any adornment desired. Everyone will love one of these cute headbands especially the girls headed back to school

 

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Jul 12, 2014

Beach Drawstring Backpack

Beach Bag2

Carry all your beach accessories in this fun, light weight, and airy cotton backpack, towel, goggles, sunscreen, all fit in this lightweight bag.

Pattern Information

Knitting loom: All-n-One Knitting loom, 102 pegs used.

Yarn:  Approx 340 yds of worsted weight yarn cotton. Sample used Sugar ‘N Cream Stripes in Tie Dye Stripes (3 balls).

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle.

Size: 12” wide x 16” tall

Gauge: 9 sts x 15 rows= 2 inches

Abbreviations

K=knit stitch

P=purl stitch

St(s)=stitches

Rnd(s)=round(s)

BO=Bind off

Rem=remain

Cont=continue

Sl=slip. Skip peg with yarn behind the peg

K2tog=knit two stitches together. Move stitch from the peg on the left to the peg on the right. Work/knit both loops as one loop.

YO=Yarn over. Ewrap peg on the row that calls to YO, on the next row when you need to knit the stitch, undo the ewrap and lay the yarn flat in front of the peg.

INSTRUCTIONS

Leave a 20 inch yarn tail, cast on 102 sts, join to work in the round.

**Rnd 1-12: k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 13: p to the end of rnd.

Rnd 14: *yo, sl1-k2tog-psso, yo, k3; rep from * to the end of rnd.

Rnd 15: k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 16: *k3, yo, sl1-k2tog-psso, yo; rep from * to the end of rnd.

Rnd 17: k to the end of rnd.

Rep Rnds 14-17: 2 more times

Next rnd: p to the end of rnd. **

Rep from ** to ** 2 more times.

Next 12 rnds: k to the end of rnd.

Next rnd: p to the end of rnd.

From this point forward, work in a flat panel from peg 1 to peg 51 to create the drawstring opening on one side.

Next 4 rows: k to the end of row.

Next row: p to the end of row.

Next 4 rows: k to the end of row.

Bind off these 51 sts with basic bind off method, leave a 20 inch yarn tail to use for seaming. Using the yarn tail, thread the tapestry needle, fold the flat panel, using the purl row as the midpoint to fold down.

Join yarn to peg 52, from this point forward, work in a flat panel from peg 52 to peg 102 to create the second drawstring opening.

Next 4 rows: k to the end of row.

Next row: p to the end of row.

Next 4 rows: k to the end of row.

Bind off these 51 sts with basic bind off method, leave a 20 inch yarn tail to use for seaming. Using the yarn tail, thread the tapestry needle, fold the flat panel, using the purl row as the midpoint to fold down.

Close the bottom of the bag (the cast on edge) using the method of choice to provide a flat seam. Sample used the mattress stitch.

HANDLES
(make 2)

Cut 9 pieces of yarn that measure 80 inches long. Group the 9 strands into three groups of three; braid them together. Make a knot at the ends.

LOOPS
(make 2)

Cast on 3 sts, work an icord over these 3 sts that is five rows in length. Bind off.

ASSEMBLY

Icords are used to hold the drawstrings in place. Seam each icord, horizontally, approximately 1 inch from the side edge and 1 inch from the bottom.

Use the drawing below to thread the drawstrings through the top of the bag. You will pull one drawstring at a time, each drawstring will go through both openings of the bag. Set your bag down on a flat area, the part closest to your body is side B, the part resting on the flat area is side B. Entering on the right side, pass one drawstring through side A, then pass it through side B, both tails of the drawstring should be on the right side. Make a knot at the end of the drawstring.  Second drawstring, enter through the left side, pass the drawstring through side A, then pass it through side B, both tails of the drawstring should be on the left side. Make a knot at the end of the drawstring.

DRAWSTRING drawstring backpack

 

 

Drawstring Beach Bag

 

Steam block the bag to open up the eyelets in the lace section.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Lace row breakdown of: yo, sl1-k2tog-psso, yo

The above takes place over 3 pegs, numbered 1 to 3, from right to left as pictured below.

 3 pegs

Step 1: Move loop from peg 2 to peg 3.

Step 2: Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2.

Step 3: Ewrap peg 1.

Step 4: Take working yarn to the front of peg 3. Knit peg 3, treating both loops on the peg as one loop.

Step 5: Move loop from peg 3 to peg 2.

Step 6: Lift bottommost loop from peg 2, up and off the peg.

Step 7: Ewrap peg 3.

Note: On the following row/round after doing the yarn overs (ewraps), when you reach the peg with the ewrap, undo the ewrap and lay the strand of yarn in front of the peg, then knit the peg.

8 Comments

  • What is psso? It does not explain that in the abbreviations.

  • Sorry this is off the beaten path but are there any patterns for children mittens on the sock loom 2? I would love to make some for winter for charities. Sue Kreitzer

  • Hello so in reading the pattern, the knits are the alternate to the purl and not a ewrap. Am I right?

  • correct

  • As of right now, we don’t have any children mitt patterns. We will work on that for the upcoming winter. Thank you for the suggestion.

  • Pass over the skipped stitch

  • Eu gostaria de te pedir uma grande gentileza. Quando vc postar algo,tipo esta bolsa,que vc postar o grafico como fazer a bolsa,coloque tb um desenho de como vc faz este trabalho no tear Eh muito legal,vc compartilhar o grafico pra quem quiser falzer igual,mas e quem nao conhece os pontos e muito menos,sabe interpretar o graficos,como que faz ??? Eh o meu caso. Quero comecar a fazer o tear,mas so encontro a foto da peca pronta,seguida,somente de graficos e nada do modo como fazer. Esta esta sendo minha grande. Faz isso por quem ainda nao sabe,por favor. Obrigado.

  • Lynn, in the Lace stitch breakdown, all the way at the end of the pattern, I show you how to do the psso.

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Jun 27, 2014

Summer Footies

Summer footies 1

A fun pair of footies to wear during the summer months, knit with worsted weight cotton yarn and a lovely open lace pattern.

Pattern Information

Knitting loom: Sock Loom 2 by Authentic Knitting Board, 36 pegs used.

Yarn:  Approx 125 yds of worsted weight yarn cotton. Sample used Sugar ‘N Cream in Over the Rainbow.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle.

Size: US Women’s 6-7 (7-8, 8-9). Sample shown in size 6-7

Abbreviations

K=knit stitch

P=purl stitch

St(s)=stitches

Rnd(s)=round(s)

BO=Bind off

Cont=continue

K2tog=knit two stitches together. Move stitch from the peg on the left to the peg on the right. Work/knit both loops as one loop.

YO=Yarn over. Ewrap peg on the row that calls to YO, on the next row when you need to knit/purl the stitch, undo the ewrap and lay the yarn flat in front of the peg.

w&t=wrap and turn. The process of wrapping the stitch and turning to work in the opposite direction. Lift the stitch/loop off the peg, wrap the peg so that the yarn goes around the peg and ends towards the front of the peg—if working in a clockwise direction around the loom, wrap the peg counterclockwise; if working in a clockwise direction around the loom, wrap the peg clockwise.

INSTRUCTIONSSummer Footies 2

CUFF

Cast on 36 sts, join to work in the round.

Rnd 1-6: *k2, p2; rep from * to the end of rnd.

Rnd 7-10: k to the end of the rnd.

HEEL

Start Short Row Heel—worked in short-rows over the first 18 pegs.

Row 1: k17, w&t at peg 18.

Row 2: k16, w&t at peg 1.

Row 3: k15, w&t at peg 17.

Row 4: K14, w&t at peg 2.

Row 5: K13, w&t at peg 16.

Row 6: k12, w&t at peg 3.

Row 7: k11, w&t at peg 15.

Row 8: k10, w&t at peg 4.

Row 9: k9, w&t at peg 14.

Row 10: k8, w&t at peg 5

Center 8 pegs of the 18 heel stitches are without a wrap. Continue with second part of heel.

Row 11: k9, (lift all the loops on the last pegs as one loop), w&t peg 15 (this peg has 2 wraps on it and the stitch).

Row 12: k10, w&t peg 4 (this peg has 2 wraps on it and the stitch).

Row 13: k11, w&t peg 16 (this peg has 2 wraps on it and the stitch).

Row 14: k12, w&t peg 3 (this peg has 2 wraps on it and the stitch).

Row 15: k13, w&t peg 17 (this peg has 2 wraps on it and the stitch).

Row 16: k14, w&t peg 2 (this peg has 2 wraps on it and the stitch).

Row 17: k15, w&t peg 18 (this peg has 2 wraps on it and the stitch).

Row 18: k16, w&t peg 1 (this peg has 2 wraps on it and the stitch).

End of Heel Instruction

SOLE AND INSTEP

Continue working in the round the sole and instep instructions. Sole constitute the first 18 stitches, instep the remainder 18 stitches.

*Rnd 1 and 2: k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 3: k18,  [k2tog]3x, [yo, k1]6x, [k2tog]3x.

Rnd 4: k18, p18.*

Rep instructions from * to *: 8 (9, 10) more times.

Next rnd: k to the end of rnd.

TOE

Follow same instructions as for HEEL

Once heel instructions have been completed, transfer the stitches as follows onto two double pointed needles:

Stitches 1-18 on one double pointed needle.

Stitches 19-36 on second double pointed needle.

Use the kitchener stitch to seam the toe are close.

Weave ends in. Block lightly.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Continue reading »

14 Comments

  • Hi Isela,

    How do I get a print out of this pattern so I can make these cute footies? I’ve made lots of socks since I first made your loom along sock pattern in May of 2012. Thanks for your great patterns and your help!

    Mary

  • I have finished the footies, with the exception of the toes. HELP! I have watched videos on how to do the kitchener stitch, but the loomed ones all show the round loom. Is there a video or an explanation for how to do this? I love this pattern!!

  • Is this just one piece of worsted yarn for the slippers

  • Yep.

  • http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEsummer04/FEATtheresasum04.html This is better than video, step by step photos.

  • Hmm, you could copy the entire post to a Word document and then print it–highlight the entire post, right click and click on copy; open a Word document, click on paste. I think that should work.

  • These are adorable. Thank you for the pattern. You gave the number of cast on stitches for size 6-7 but not for the other sizes. Please be kind enough to post how many stitches to cast on for the other size. Thank you very much. I love this knitting board. I used to make socks using dp needles. What a pain they were but this board is so much easier. I take it with me wherever I go.

  • Can you please show what type of Knitting Board you are using for this pattern. That way I can see if I have it or not. Also it would be great if you can make a video.

    thanks,

  • It is the same number of pegs. The lace is very expandable and thus the peg count works.

  • What pattern is this in respect to? Thanks Julieta.

  • Ok, I saw what post it came from. It is done on the Sock loom 2. http://www.knittingboard.com/product_p/sockloom_2.htm. The breakdown of the lace portion is posted in the pattern, it is very simple to follow along. Right now, we don’t have a video planned but we will put it in our to-do list. Thank you.

  • How do you do the kitchener and the u – stitch? I can’t seem to find anything on how to do these

  • Thanks for telling me how to print the footie pattern. I just saw the newest hat and sock looms yesterday. Awesome! I’m getting them next week. Is there a book planned for the efg loom?

  • If you have MS Office installed, you have a program called Microsoft XPS Document Writer. Just right click on the article, go down to click on print, and save as an XPS document. I look at print preview first so I don’t copy umpteen number of comments. Give it a name, and you can view this with the XPS reader, just by clicking on the file.

    But if no office software, you have wordpad on your computer. Just copy what you want and paste it in there. Hold down the left button and run across the text you want to copy and right click to paste. Picture, you just right click, copy, then paste where you want the picture to appear in your document.

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Jun 21, 2014

‘Tilly’ Knit Doll

tilly2cropEveryone loves knit dolls and this little girl will win your heart.  Tilly measures a full 16”+ tall and is made on the little Tadpole Knitting Board.  Have  fun making new clothes for her.  You can make the entire family with just a change of facial expressions, hair style, and clothing.

Loom:  Tadpole Knitting Board with 16+ pins working in double knit.

Yarn:  Body of doll is worked with Premier Deborah Norville’s  Serenity Chunky in Oatmeal Heather.  (1.5) skeins. This is a chunky yarn and will produce a tight knit.  Clothing and embroidery colors and yarns will be mentioned in each section. Hair will use 1 skein of yarn of choice.

Stitches:  Stockinette

Notions Needed:  Knit hook, crochet hook size 4, large sewing needle, measure tape, and small bag of poly-fil (4 oz) for body of doll.

Finished Size:  Doll is 16.5” tall.  She can wear purchased clothing for an 18”and NB.

Gauge of doll body:  3 sts and 4 rows=1 inch of knit

Instructions:  You will knit (2) body sections, (2) arm sections, (2) foot sections.

Body of Doll:  Cast on (8) stitches in basic stockinette stitch in center of loom so that there are (4) empty pins on each end of loom.  Lay strong anchor yarn of same color.  You are starting at top of head.

Work (1) row in stockinette.

Increase row: Lift loop #1 to outside of loom onto empty pin.  Do this to both boards and at both ends.  Use previous stitch from pin #3 and place onto pin # 2.  You now have all pins covered once more. Weave over all pins in stockinette.  Hook over.

You now have (10) stitphoto 113ches on each board.

Work (1) row in stockinette.

Repeat these 2 rows, increase row and the regular row, until you have all (16) pins covered, ending with a regular row.

Work (3) additional regular rows in stockinette.

Decrease row:  Lift loop from 2nd peg onto pin #3 creating open pin.  Move 1st loop onto pin #2.  You now have open pin at front of loom.  Do this to both ends and both boards.  Your 2nd pins will have (2) loops.  Weave all stitches and hook over, being  sure to pick up both lower loops from pins #2.

Work (1) regular row in photo 114stockinette stitch.

Repeat these (2) rows until you have (10) stitches remaining on the loom.  End with a regular row.  You are at the neck of the doll.

Repeat the process of the (2) rows, increase row and regular row, until you once again have all (16) pins covered.  Continue working in stockinette stitch for additional (12) rows.

Legs of Doll:

The legs are knit by working the first (8) stitches with one yarn, and the second (8) stitches with a different skein of yarn.

Tie on a 2nd skein of yarn (may be a partial skein) at center of knitting by tying yarn onto previous row.  Work by weaving the first set of pins, lay yarn down.  Pick up 2nd yarn and weave second set of pins.  Hook over all pins of both sections.  Work (8) complete rows on both sections.

Do one decrease row on each section at both ends.  Work row.  (this is knee area)photo 3

Work one regular row.

Next row, increase on each outside edge only.  Work row.

Work (11) additional rows on these stitches.

Decrease (1) stitch each end, both boards.  Work row.

Work (1) regular row.  Bind Off of loom on both sections.

Leave anchor yarn in head piece as it will be used when finishing.  Trim and pull in all yarn tails with crochet hook.  Set aside.

Repeat Body of Doll for back piece.  They are the same.

Arms of Doll:  

Cast On (8) stitches.  Lay anchor yarn of any yarn.  It will stay in the arm, but will not be seen.

Work (10) rows in stockinette.

Decrease (1) stitch each end, both boards.

Work (10) rows in stockinette.

Increase (1) stitch at beginning of next row.  At opposite end of row, decrease (1) stitch.

Bind Off, ending at increase edge.  Allow the knot, at end of bind off, to pull the increase stitch up and out forming a thumb.

Repeat for 2nd arm of doll.  Trim and pull in all yarn tails with crochet hook.  Set aside.

Feet:    Knit (2)

Cast On (14) stitches.  Lay anchor yarn of matching yarn.

Work in stockinette stitch for (5) rows.

Bind Off.  Do not remove the anchor yarn.  Trim and pull in all yarn tails with crochet hook.  Set aside.

Face of Doll:  Now, here’s where you can be creative.  She/he can be smiling, sad, stoic, or funny.  Decide what color eyes to have, and red or pink mouth, and how big the nose should be?  Once you have an idea of how your doll will look, choose the location on one face piece and mark each with a piece of yarn, or needle or knitting needle.  You will need to have about 5-6 yds of each color.  For our doll, we used 2 shades of blue for the eyes outlined in black with black eyelashes.  For the mouth, a simple smile in bright red.  The nose is the main yarn.  Our face was all done with easy, simple line stitches.  The yarn was Loops and Threads craft cord, but embroidery thread will work fine.

Once the face is complete, set the parts aside.  You are ready to start sewing the parts together.

Sewing and Finishing:  When you stitch pieces together, use the invisible stitch to draw the seams together.  Work with the large darning needle and matching yarn.  See photos of sewing below.

Arms:  Fold the arms over lengthwise.  The thumbs should both face up.  Start sewing at anchor yarn edge and work towards the hand.  When you get to wrist point, knot the yarn, wrap the yarn around the wrist and knot again.  Pull needle into knit and cut the yarn tail.   The arm should naturally bend slightly at elbow.  You can just tie the ends of anchor yarn together loosely and tuck into arm.   Only the top of the arm will be stuffed, but this will be done later.  Lay the arms aside and sew the body of doll.

Lay the (2) body pieces together, matching all joints/shapes.  Secure each leg at opening and top of legs at inseam with large stitch (this will be removed, but holds the pieces in place).  Now sew the inseam of both legs leaving the bottom of leg open for feet to be attached.  Start at inside seam of leg1 at foot and continue around to end at inside seam of other leg2 at foot.  Knot to secure.

You will now sephoto 442w each side seam of doll securing the front to back.  Work from outside at foot up to where the arms will be placed.  You want to leave aprox 2” opening  for each arm.  Leave sewing yarn attached.  Use a small piece of yarn to tack front to back at neck.

Place one arm into opening.  Be sure to note how the hand is turned.  Continue sewing, working around one side of body and one side of arm.  When sewing, pick up the inner cross stitch in the body and the cast on stitches of the arm or the next row in.  The anchor yarn will not show, but allows the opening to stay flexible.  Once you have sewn all around the arm, continue sewing again until you arrive at the neck.  Remove the tack stitch and sew the neck.

 

 

photo 444Stop here and stuff enough poly-fil into body to create the thickness desired.  From the bottom of each leg, push small amount of poly-fil into each leg until you have the desired thickness.  If you want a small amount of poly-fil in the upper arms, stuff this as you work on the body area.

Once you have the shape desired for the legs and body, you are ready to sew the 2 sides of head together.

Continue sewing both sides of doll from neck to top of head until you get to the cast on stitches.  Knot yarn but keep attached.  Use this opening to stuff the head.  If you want more definition between the body and head, tie a piece of matching yarn snugly around neck before stuffing  head.  Stuff the head completely and firmly, shaping the face, as you work.  Once it is firm, you are ready to close the top of head.  Use both anchor yarns from front and back pieces.  Pull them firmly and knot at both sides.  Trim and tuck the yarn tails into head.  Use one of the sewing yarns that are still attached to each side of head, to complete the opening by sewing the stitches together.  Tie sewing yarns together for a secure knot, trim, and tuck ends into head with crochet hook.  Use crochet hook (back end) to rearrange any stuffing that seems to need adjustment.

 

photo 21Feet:  Make sure the legs are as thick as desired before adding the feet.  Each foot should be sewn at bottom of foot.  You will be sewing a bind off edge, so just weave the sewing yarn thru the edge of the stitches alternating sides and pull snug.   The top of the foot has the anchor yarn which will help to make it the correct size to match opening of leg.  The foot should be longer than the leg so that it extends out to front of doll and this creates the foot.  No stuffing is needed unless you like fat feet.

Stitch around the edge of leg opening to make it slightly smaller than the fullness of the leg.  Use this sewing yarn (16”) to attach the leg opening to top edge of foot.  Tie ends of anchor yarn together and tuck in any yarn tails into foot before sewing to leg.  Take a bite from leg and pick up stitch from top of foot going around the entire leg.  Then work the 2 sides of the top of foot to close it in.  Secure with knot and pull all yarn tails into foot.

Hair:  This is the fun part and something that determines the look of your doll, so think about the hair-do that you like before starting.  Choose a yarn for this.  It can be fuzzy, silkie, chunky, or very fine.  Do you want it so that a young girl can change the look, or locked in curls, or straight for making into pony tails and braids?  Our doll has a basic style, and lots of it, so that you can see hphoto 41ow to add it to her head.

We are using Harmony Iron Stone, 100% wool, one skein of 109 yds.  It is color 13059 Burnt Red.

Cut 16” pieces using entire skein of yarn.  You can use less to give a different look.  The fat head look of Tilly involves the entire scalp with hair strands attached.  They are placed onto the stitches of the scalp just like one would attach fringe to the end of a scarf.  Slip crochet hook thru the stitch.  Fold the yarn strand in half and place the fold onto hook.  Pull the loop thru the stitch and then the strands thru the loop, and pull securely.  Do the hair line first.  Start with hairline at forehead, down to where ears would be.  Move back a row, now do the hairline around neck to other side of head.  This should give you one line of strands across face, and another curved line around back of head.   Now fill in for the thickness you desire and complete the hair attachment.

 

Tuck in any yarn tail remaining.  Tilly now has body, arms, legs, feet, face, and hair.  She is ready for some fun clothing.  We will create a basic little sundress.  Add some booties and a sweater plus a little jewelry and she will be ready to run out and play.

Sundress:  (Knit in one piece)

Yarn used is Vanna’s Glamour.  ½ skein was used. Any DK or worsted weight yarn will work. Stitches used are Stockinette and Open Rib.  Knit in one piece in double knit on the Tadpole loom.

Cast on all 16 stitches in Stockinette.  Lay anchor yarn of same yarn aprox 20” long.

Work in stockinette for (8) rows.  Change to Open Rib and work (3) rows.

Change to stockinette and work (5) rows.  Change to Open Rib and work (3) rows.

Change to stockinette and work (4) rows.  Change to Open Rib and work (3) rows.

Change to stockinette and work (2) rows.

Dec (1) stitch each end.  Bind Off center (6) stitches.  You now have (8) stitches one the loom;  (4) at each end.  Tie on new yarn at 2nd set of (4) stitches.

Work on both sections in stockinette until the dress straps measure 3.5”.

Work with original yarn across all (14) stitches.  Lay anchor yarn across the center (6) new stitches.

Next row, inc (1) stitch at each end of loom so that you now have the full (16) stitches on the loom, and you are working the full board with one working yarn.  Cut and knot the 2nd working yarn.

Repeat the dress front so that the back of the dress is the same:  (3) rows of open braid, (4) rows of stockinette, (3) rows of open braid, (5) rows of stockinette, (3) rows of open braid, and (8) rows of stockinete.

Now, you need to add the anchor yarn to stitches on loom so that the hem of the dress is same as the front.  Work with darning needle and matching yarn aprox 16” long.  Use the needle to pick up the loops from the loom, one loop at a time, alternating from back board to front.  Allow the loops to be transferred from the loom to the anchor yarn.

Once all the loops are on the anchor yarn, you are ready to sew the dress.  This can be done on or off the doll.  We found it easier to sew the dress after the neckline was placed over her head.  Pin in place.  Tie the anchor yarns together to connect the dress front to the dress back.  Make this very loose so that the hemline flares out.  Cut and trim, and tuck ends into dress.  Sew up the side seams to arm opening.  Lace ribbon or yarn thru the lower open braid stitches for a hipline accent.  Tie and allow the ends to form tassels.  We used Patons Metallic Green for the accent.  Approx 3 yds required for 4 strand belt.

Sock booties for Tilly were purchased in NB baby store.  Pattern for Tilly’s sweater coat will be coming in future Newsletter offerings.  Beads, bows and bracelets are made with misc craft items.  Be creative, and have fun knitting your knit doll.

2 Comments

  • Beautiful knitter doll. Going to put it on my to-do list.

  • Thank you for the tadpole pattern! I hope we see more patterns for this nice little board!

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