Herringbone Stitch & Working with Charts
Hi! My name is Bethany Dailey and I’m new here at Knitting Board Chat. I am so happy to loom along with you! In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure. My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square. As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you? You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)
The Ins and Outs of Chart Reading
First up is the Herringbone Stitch. This is a nice and easy stitch involving repeating rows of knits and purls. The slightly tricky part of this stitch will be to keep proper count while working the pattern. To help us along in this process we can use a couple of aids…the first of which is a knitting chart.
Here is the basic stitch chart for this particular pattern:
When reading a knitting chart, you will be starting at the bottom right and working your way up the chart, from row to row.
Notice how the numbers across the bottom are listed from right to left? This is because you will be casting onto your looms first from left to right, then your first row will be worked from right to left, matching up each peg number with each of the numbers on the chart bottom.
The numbers which are running up the sides of the chart represent your row count. As you can see, row number 1 will be worked from right to left, as that is where that row number is designated on the chart. Row number 2 will be worked from left to right, as that is where you will find the number 2 listed.
By alternating the sides that the row numbers are listed, you are given the clue that this pattern is meant to be worked as a flat panel. If this was a chart that was meant to be worked in the round, you would see each of the row numbers all listed on the same side, because in the process of knitting in the round, you would always be starting each row from that same spot as you worked around the loom.
Now that you know which direction to read the chart, it’s time to decipher what the chart is actually saying. For this, we need to take a look at the Chart Key. Here is where the symbols you see in the chart are listed in knitting terms, along with their abbreviations. For each symbol on the chart, a corresponding stitch will be worked in that exact spot of your row.
The herringbone stitch is a simple one, containing only 2 stitches: knit and purl. Where you spot a blank square on the chart, you will knit. Where you spot a dot, you will purl. It’s as simple as that! :)
Oh, I did mention a couple of aids, right?
The second aid that I love to use while knitting pretty much every project is a good set of stitch markers— or peg markers, as we who love to loom knit tend call them. These can be pretty much anything that will fit over your pegs, but won’t get in the way of the creation of your stitches. I love to use them to mark the first and last pegs used in a pattern, as well as any other helpful places that remind me of what I’m supposed to be knitting. In the case of the herringbone stitch, a good place for them is at the start of every pattern repeat during the row.
Another essential-to-me aid for keeping my place in a pattern I’m working is a good reliable row counter. This can be a store bought one, a cell phone app, or even something as simple as marking little chicken scratches on a piece of paper at the end of every row. However you want to do it, a row counter helps avoid lots of frustration in the long run.
Herringbone Stitch Square
Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge. The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.
Yarn: approx. 105 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Patons Classic Wool Worsted in Jade Heather)
Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors, measuring tape. (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter)
With the beginning of the school year and those chilly Autumn days, this would be a terrific pattern to use as a cozy scarf for both guys and gals! Simply increase the number of Main Pattern Rows for the length required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.
When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.
Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:
Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart. Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!
But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)
Repeating Pattern Rows
Row 1: k3, p2, k1, p2, k2
Row 2: k1, p2, k3, p2, k2
Row 3: k1, p2, k5, p2
Row 4: p1, k2, p1, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1
Step by Step Instructions:
Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 37 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)
Set Up Rows
Repeat the following 2 row pattern 3 times, for a total of 6 rows:
Row a: k37
Row b: p37
Main Pattern Rows
Repeat the following 4 row pattern 15 times, for a total of 60 rows:
Row 1: k3, work Row 1 of repeating pattern to last 4 stitches, k4.
Row 2: p3, k1, work Row 2 of repeating pattern to last 3 stitches, p3.
Row 3: k3, work Row 3 of repeating pattern to last 4 stitches, k4.
Row 4: p3, k1, work Row 4 of repeating pattern to last 3 stitches, p3.
Row b: p37
Row c: k37
Row d: p37
Row e: k37
Row f: p37
Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off) Weave in ends and trim close to work.
Block lightly to 8” x 8” measurement.
If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares. We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket. Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:
- Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
- Children: 42″ x 48″
- Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
- Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
- Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″
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Knitting Loom: KB Hat Loom. Use 40 pegs, large gauge setting.
Yarn: Super Bulky, 100% merino wool 90 yards per skein 150 grams per skein. Sample was knit using Malabrigo Rasta in Sunset, 1 skein.
Notions: Knitting tool, tapestry needle, removable stitch marker.
knit stitch, purl stitch, e-wrap, gather removal method.
- k=knit stitch
- p=purl stitch
- ew=ewrap peg counterclockwise
- YO=ewrap (ewrap peg counterclockwise)
- K2tog: knit two stitches together. Move the loop from right to the peg on the left, knit the peg with the two loops on it, treating both loops as one loop.
Cast on 40 sts, join to work in the rnd.
Round 1-7: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.
Rnd 8-9: k to the end rnd.
Rnd 10 is broken into two parts: Rnd 10-A and Rnd 10-B
Rnd 10-A: *YO3; rep from * to end end of rnd. (How to: *Take yarn to peg 1, ewrap peg 1 three times; peg 1 has 4 loops. Repeat the same process with the remaining 39 pegs.).
Rnd 10-B: k to the end of rnd.
(How to: lift the bottommost loop up and off the pegs; each peg should remain with the 3 ewraps on it.)
TIP: Combine Rnd 10-A and 10-B as one Rnd as follows: Ewrap peg 3 times (for the YO3), then lift the bottommost loop, then move to the next peg and do the same. Each peg should have 3 loops on it.
Rnd 11: k to the end of rnd.
(How to: First, unravel the ewraps from the peg (it will look like an elongated stitch). Take yarn to the front of the peg and knit the peg as normal. Be careful that the stitch stays on the peg and does not “pop” off the peg.)
Rnd 12: As Rnd 10.
Rnd 13: p to the end of rnd.
Rnd 14: k to the end of rnd.
Rnd 15: p to the end of rnd.
Rep Rnds 12-15: 6 more times.
Rep Rnds 10 and 11.
Next rnd: *k2tog; rep from * to the end of rnd. (20 sts rem).
How to: move loop from odd number peg to the even number peg. Each even peg (2, 4, 6, etc) should have 2 loops on it. Knit the round, treating both loops on each peg as one loop.
Bind off with gather removal method. Weave ends in.
Set the stitches by gently tugging on the hat vertically. All the stitches should be elongated and open.
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Knitting Loom: 40 peg, large gauge loom. Adjustable Hat Loom in Medium size (40 pegs) recommended.
Yarn: Super Bulky, 100% merino wool 90 yards per skein 150 grams per skein. Sample was knit using Malabrigo Rasta in Electrica, 1 skein.
Other: Knitting tool, tapestry needle, removable stitch marker.
CO=cast on. If the cast on is at the beginning of a row, simply ewrap the peg that needs to be casted on.
The item is worked flat for the brim and then it continues in the round for the body of the hat.
Work a flat panel as follows: cast on 12 stitches (from left to right).
Row 1: p to the end of row.
Row 2: k to the end of row.
Row 3: co1, p to the end of row.
Row 4: co1, k to the end of row.
Rep Rows 1-4: 1 more time (16 sts total on the loom).
At this point, continue knitting in the round as follows:
Next: [k2, p2] 4x. With e-wrap method, cast on all around the loom to begin working in the round. Place a removable stitch marker on any of the stitches on this round to mark the round.
Next 4 rounds: *k2, p2; rep from * to the end of the rnd.
Next round: knit to the end of round
Rep last round until item measures 6.5 inches from marker.
Bind off with gather removal method. Weave ends in.
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We received a request for a little bit of extra assistance in creating the slouchy hat pictured in the front cover of the All-n-One loom.
The instructions for the increase round read: Rnd 9: *k3, m1l; rep from * to the end of rnd (80 sts).
I will offer you two methods to achieve this:
Remove all 60 stitches from the knitting loom and place them on a piece of scrap yarn or on a circular needle.
Set your knitting loom to 80 pegs.
Place the stitches back on the knitting loom as follows: place 3 stitches back on 3 pegs, skip one peg, place 3 stitches back on 3 pegs, skip one peg, keep repeating this instructions until you have place all stitches back on the knitting loom.
*Knit 3 pegs, now create the M1L and place it on the empty peg; repeat from the *.
*Knit 3 pegs, M1L and place it on peg 3 (over the loop already there, peg 3 will have 2 loops on it). Continue around the knitting loom repeating this sequence.
On the following round: knit 2 pegs, lift the loop that is at the top of peg 3 and hold it or place it on peg 4, knit the loop on peg 3, place the loop that you were holding back on top of peg 3 (or move it from peg 4 back to peg 3), knit this loop (be sure to only knit the top loop and leave the one at the bottom untouched). Continue around the loom repeating this sequence.
Now, remove all the stitches from the knitting loom and place them on a piece of scrap yarn or a circular needle.
Set your knitting loom to 80 pegs.
Place your stitches back on the knitting loom.
I hope the above helps to facilitate the increases. It is the most laborious round of the hat, take it slow and one step at a time.
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Blending Weaving and Knitting!
Blending easy weaving with some knitted edges can create great home décor. You can weave separate place mats for the table or connect several pieces to create a table runner as long as needed. Here, we have created two sections and connected with one-color panel of knit.
Loom: 28” knitting board + peg extenders, set up as a rectangular loom using both 20-peg extenders
Yarn: Elite Verde, Sprout, 100% Organic Cotton, machine wash, lay flat to dry. Each hank is aprox 100 grams or 109 yards. Colors used are #4378 Brown (1 hank), #4325 Pink, (1 hank), and #4316 Cream (1 hank).
Notions needed: Knit hook, Crochet hook #4-5, 12” long wooden crochet hook, and darning needle
Size finished: 9 X 56 inches (each section is aprox. 28” long). Work as many as needed.
Choose the color that you want as the base. Here we have used the brown yarn (yarn #1). Start with a loop knot and place it on the first peg on the long side of the loom. You are working across from one long board to the other. Weave across all pegs. End with another loop knot. Keep the yarn taut, but with enough stretch so the size is maintained once off the loom. Do not use the 4 corner pegs of the loom. Your base yarn is set up.
Now, place a loop knot on the first peg of the extender using yarn 2, pink. Use the long crochet hook in 3 sections to move the yarn across the base yarn and down to the opposite extender on first peg. This is one continuous flow of the yarn of each color. Work 4 pegs of pink yarn.
Once the pink yarn is complete, cut yarn and tie on the brown yarn to the pink yarn tail at peg. Work 2 rows of brown yarn. Cut brown, tie on the yarn #3 Cream at next peg. Work 8 pegs back and forth in the cream yarn. Do not be concerned with all the yarn tails.
Change back to the brown yarn for another 2 rows. Cut and tie to the pink yarn.
Work last 4 pegs with pink to match the opposite side. Knot the pink upon completion
by tying to the last peg or use a loop knot for easy removal.
Edges (linear) along the long boards: Choose the yarn color for the edges. We decided to keep using the brown yarn. Use the short crochet hook and keep the weaving on the loom as you work. Do not remove at this time.
Start at one end of the long boards. Pick up the loop, from top to bottom, on the first peg and grab the working yarn.
Make one more chain stitch on the hook. Move the crochet hook to front of board and twist the hook so that the loop on it is twisted. Pick up next loop and repeat.
Continue down the board until all pegs are secured with the crochet edge. The edge will be on the outside of the loom. Knot the yarn on last peg to secure or use loop knot.
Repeat the same edge on the other side of the loom so that both sides are completed. Your woven piece should still be on all pegs. The only open pegs are the ones at 4 corners of the loom.
Completing the ends with knitting: Once the long sides are complete and secure, you can work the short ends. You may do this with knit and purl stitches on the loom, or move the loops to a #10.5 long knitting needle. You will want to carefully remove the side edges off the pegs being careful not to remove the end loops until they are completed. However you choose to knit off the ends, work with knit and purl rows. Tie on the yarn at one end peg of a short side. Add a stitch to the end pegs at beginning and at end of loom. You will be working on 22 pegs. Work 2 rows in knit stitch, 1 purl row. Repeat 3 times ending with a knit row. This is aprox 10 rows of knitting. Bind off. If you want it done in all knit stitches or all purl stitches, this can be a matter of choice. Once complete, draw in all yarn tails into the same color section and trim.
On the 2nd panel, you can just knit the one side edge. The other end will be joined to the first panel and can be a bind off with the crochet hook. If you choose to knit this edge also, you will create a wider middle section by sewing the 2 knit ends together. If you have chosen to make place mats, be sure to knit off both ends. As mentioned, you may have a longer table that you want your runner to fit. You may work up as many woven panels as desired. If you plan to do a 3rd panel, be sure to purchase a 2nd hank of the yarn that you are using for your base and edges. 3 panels will make a runner aprox 84” long.
You may want to block lightly, the knit sections, for nice even edges with the weaving.
Weaving is just another way to create home décor, tote bags, and scarves. You can also experiment with many different types of media other than yarn. Try cord, jute, and fabric yarn.
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The fall months are soon approaching, it is time to begin knitting all those beautiful fall projects. One of my favorite fall project category is socks. I love to see a drawer full of cheerful handknit socks. Today, we bring you the Schooner Socks. These are worked with sock weight yarn and our new extra fine gauge knitting loom.
Knitting Loom: Extra Fine Gauge (EFG) Sock Loom.
Yarn: 400-500 yds of sock weight yarn. Sample shown in Knit Picks Felici in Schooner.
Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle, 2 double pointed needles size US 1 or 2.
Size: shown in 8.5-9 inch circumference
Gauge: 17sts and 23 rows=2 inches
Sl1=slip the stitch/peg; in this stitch pattern, place yarn behind the peg.
Round 1: *k3, sl1; rep from * to the end of round.
Round 2: k to the end of round.
Rep Row 1 & Row 2 for stitch pattern.
How to sl1—Take yarn behind the peg that you are “slipping”. Example: Knit pegs 1, 2, 3, take yarn behind peg 4; this completes one repeat, start again at peg 5 by knitting peg 5, 6, 7, then slipping peg 8, repeating the sequence all around the round.
Clockwise direction around the loom. Knit Stitch refers to the knit stitch, may substitute with flat stitch or u-stitch; ewrap not recommended.
Cast on 64sts, join in the round.
Rnds 1-8: *k2, p2; rep from * to the end of round
Rnd 9: *k3, sl1; rep from * to the end of round
Rnd 10: k
Rep Rnd 9 & Rnd 10: until leg measures 6 inches from cast on edge (or until leg
measures desired length from cast on edge). End on a Rnd 9.
Worked flat with short-rows on first 32 pegs
Knit from peg 1-32. Wrap & Turn peg 33.
Knit from peg 32-2. Wrap & Turn peg 1.
Knit from peg 2-31. Wrap & Turn peg 32.
Knit from peg 31-3. Wrap & Turn peg 2.
Knit from peg 3-30. Wrap & Turn peg 31.
Knit from peg 30-4. Wrap & Turn peg 3.
Knit from peg 4-29. Wrap & Turn peg 30.
Knit from peg 29-5. Wrap & Turn peg 4.
Knit from peg 5-28. Wrap & Turn peg 29.
Knit from peg 28-6. Wrap & Turn peg 5.
Knit from peg 6-27. Wrap & Turn peg 28.
Knit from peg 27-7. Wrap & Turn peg 6.
Knit from peg 7-26. Wrap & Turn peg 27.
Knit from peg 26-8. Wrap & Turn peg 7.
Knit from peg 8-25. Wrap & Turn peg 26
Knit from peg 25-9. Wrap & Turn peg 8.
Knit from peg 9-24. Wrap & Turn peg 25.
Knit from peg 24-10. Wrap & Turn peg 9.
Knit from peg 10-23. Wrap & Turn peg 24.
Knit from peg 23-9. Wrap & Turn peg 10.
Knit from peg 11-22. Wrap & Turn peg 23.
Knit from peg 22-12. Wrap & Turn peg 11.
Reverse Short-row shaping
If a peg has two loops on it, treat them as one.
Knit from peg 12-23.
Knit from peg 23-11.
Knit from peg 11-24.
Knit from peg 24-10
Knit from peg 10-25
Knit from peg 25-9
Knit from peg 9-26
Knit from peg 26-8
Knit from peg 8-27
Knit from peg 27-7
Knit from peg 7-28
Knit from peg 28-6
Knit from peg 6-29
Knit from peg 29-5
Knit from peg 5-30
Knit from peg 30-4
Knit from peg 4-31
Knit from peg 31-3
Knit from peg 3-32
Knit from peg 32-2
Knit from peg 2-33
Knit from peg 33-1
End of heel. From this point on we will work in the round to create the sole and the instep.
Next rnd: k
**Next rnd: k31, sl1, *k3, sl1; rep from * to the end of rnd
Next rnd: k **
Rep from ** to ** until sole measures 2 inches less (approx 24 rounds less) than desired length.
Repeat heel instructions exactly.
Closing the Toe
Place half of the stitches on a double pointed needle (1-32) and the
other half on the second double pointed needle (33-64). Cut the working yarn leaving a 24 inch long tail to use to close the toe area. Use the kitchener stitch to close the toe.
Finishing: Weave all yarn tail ends. Block lightly.
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