Oct 13, 2014

Whimsical Loom Knits – October 2014

Happy October!  In my little corner of the world, the air has grown chilly, darkness comes earlier, and there are Halloween decorations popping up everywhere.  I thought it would be fun to make a few little ‘spooks’ for this month’s Whimsical Loom Knit project.  I hope you have tons of fun with this pattern.  

Mini Monsters!

IMG_2754 (585x800)

 If you go out on Halloween night,

You’d better not go alone!

It’s creepy out there on Halloween night,

But spookier still at home!

For every little monster that ever was

Will prank and haunt you tonight, because

This is the night to knit up a scary delight!

 

 

Materials

Knitting Loom:  KB Sock Loom 2

Yarn:  Approximately 15-20 yards of a basic worsted weight yarn.  Red Heart Super Saver was used in the samples.

Notions:  Knitting tool, scissors, yarn needle, fiberfill for stuffing

Suggested Embellishments: 

Eyes:  Tiny buttons (6mm), google eyes, fabric paint, yarn, thread, etc.

Mouth:  Yarn, thread, fabric paint, etc.

Hair:  Yarn, felt, etc.

Finished Size:  Approximately 5” in height

Gauge:  Not essential for this project.

Special Techniques

Drawstring Cast-On:  Step 1: Pass the working yarn in front of peg 1.  Pass the working yarn behind peg 2.  Pass the working yarn in front of peg 3.  Pass the working yarn behind peg 4.  Continue weaving the working yarn in front of and behind the pegs until the working yarn reaches peg 1 again.

Step 2:  Lay the working yarn against peg 1, above the wrap from step 1.  Knit the lower wrap over the top wrap.  Pass the working yarn in front of peg 2.  Lay the working yarn against peg 3, above the wrap from step 1.  Knit the lower wrap over the top wrap.  Pass the working yarn in front of peg 4.  Continue working in this manner until the working yarn reaches peg 1 again.  Cast on is now complete.  Continue on as directed in the pattern.

Adding a Gathering Thread:  Cut a 12” length of yarn and thread it on to the yarn needle.  Push the yarn needle up under the stitch on peg 1.  Pull the length of yarn out through the stitch, stopping when an inch or two remains at the bottom of the stitch. Move to the next peg and pull the yarn needle up under the stitch.  Pull the length of yarn until all of the slack is gone between the two pegs.  Continue working in this manner until the gathering line has been pulled up under the last stitch in the round. Remove the yarn needle.  Leave the gathering line in place.  It will be used later to shape the monster’s neck.  Continue on as directed in the pattern.

3 Stitch I-Cord:  Using the double E-wrap cast-on method, cast on 3 stitches.  *Working yarn will be at peg 3.  Take the working yarn behind peg 2 and peg 1.  Bring the working yarn around the front of peg 1 and lay it across pegs 1, 2, and 3.  Knit peg 2, then peg 1, then peg 3.  Repeat from * as directed in pattern, or until I-cord reaches the desired length.  Gently pull on the cord every few inches to help set the stitches.

Bind the I-cord off by moving the stitch on the second peg over to the first peg, placing it above the stitch on the peg.  Knit the bottom stich over the top stitch.  Move the stitch from peg 3 over to peg 1, placing it above the stitch on the peg.  Knit the bottom stitch over the top stitch. With the working yarn, wrap peg 1 and knit it.  Cut the working yarn, leaving a yarn tail measuring about 4”.  Draw the working yarn out through the last stitch remaining on peg 1, and gently pull on the yarn tail to secure the bind off.  Weave in all yarn ends.

Instructions

Head and Body:

Prepare the loom to work over 18 pegs, in the round.  Choose a yarn color for the head.  Using the drawstring cast-on method, cast on 18 stitches.  Work 10 rows using the u-wrap knit stitch.

Add a gathering thread.  (See special techniques)

If desired, switch to a new color for the body.   Work 15 more rows using the u-wrap knit stitch.  Remove from the loom using the gathered bind off method, but do not gather yet.  Set aside.

 Limbs (Make 4, or more):

Using the same color that the body was worked in, cast on 3 pegs.  Work a 3 stitch I-cord for 6 rows.  Switch to chosen head color, if desired.  Work 3 stitch I-cord for 4 more rows.  Bind off and set aside.  Repeat this process for the remaining limbs.

Finishing:

Work with the head and body piece first.  Gather the top of the head closed by pulling on the yarn tail from the drawstring cast-on.  Use the yarn needle to weave the tail in.

Stuff the head section with fiberfill.  Gather the neck area by pulling on the yarn tails of the gathering thread.  Secure the neck shaping by tying a knot in the gathering thread.  Use the yarn needle to weave in the ends of the gathering thread.

Stuff the body section with fiberfill.  Gather the body closed by pulling on the yarn tail from the gathered bind off.  Use the yarn needle to weave the tail in.

Use the yarn needle to sew the limbs to the body.  Attach the arms near the neckline; attach the legs at the bottom of the body.  Weave in any remaining yarn tails.

Now for the best part – embellishing!  Give your monster(s) hair.  Or horns.  Eye(s).  Mouth.  Fangs.  Scars.  Whatever your imagination can scare up.  Only, maybe avoid giving them a laboratory brain marked A B Normal…

Tip:  Each monster is knit as directed in the pattern.  Different looks can be achieved by varying the colors and types of fibers used while knitting, as well as using a variety of embellishments.  Let your creativity run wild!

IMG_2759 (600x800)

Frankenstein is embellished with button eyes. Mouth and scar are embroidered on. Hair is added a strand at a time. It is tied into the top of the head, the plies are split, then the hair is mussed up a bit.

IMG_2757

Voodoo doll is embellished with one button eye and a button heart. Mouth and second ‘eye’ are embroidered on. He is also brushed with dark eye shadow to give him a dirty appearance.

IMG_2758 (600x800)

Monster is knit in a strand of basic worsted weight acrylic, along with a thin, fuzzy novelty fiber to give him a furry look. He is embellished with one googly eye, backed by a slightly larger felt circle.

            

4 Comments

  • I think these are the sweetest spooks ever! You’ve really come up with some darling gouls for us to loom knit, Jenny! Spooktacular job!!! :D

  • Love!!!

  • Thank you, Bethany and Dale!

  • give me an idea for a different helloween , they will be suprised !

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Oct 10, 2014

Breast Cancer Awareness Wristers

Breast Cancer Awareness Wristers Blog

A simple pair of wristers to demonstrate your support for the cause. The ribbon is formed by creating an icord and then sewing it to the completed wristers. Exclude the ribbon and you have a regular pair of wristers.

Pattern Information

Knitting loom: Adjustable Hat loom, 44 pegs. Pattern can also be done on the All-n-One loom.

Yarn: Approx 120 yards of worsted weight wool. Cascade 220 in Tutu was used in sample (less than 1 skein). Approx 5-8 yds of contrasting pink color.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle.

Other: Elasticized ribbon (to pass through the eyelets). Sample used 5/8” Fold Over Elastic by Dritz-1 yd package.

Gauge: 11 sts x 17 rows= 2 inches in stockinette

Abbreviations

K=knit stitch (not u-stitch, not flat stitch).

P=purl stitch

K2tog=knit two stitches together. Move stitch from peg 1 to 2. Knit peg 2. Move loop from peg 2 over to peg 1.

YO=Yarn over. Ewrap the peg. On the row after the ewrap, undo the ewrap, place the yarn ladder in front of the peg, then work the peg.

St(s)=stitch(es)

Rep=repeat

Pattern notes: Worked as a flat panel then seamed at the side.

INSTRUCTIONS

Wrister

Leave a 20 inch beginning yarn tail, cast on 44 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1, 3, 5: k to end of row.

Row 2, 4, 6: p to the end of row.

Next 14 rows: k to the end of row.

Next row: *k2, p2; rep from * to the end of row.
Next row: *p2, k2; rep from * to the end of row.

Rep last two rows: 1 more time.

Next row (eyelet row): *k2tog, yo; rep from * to the end of row.

Next row: *p2, k2; rep from * to the end of row.

Next row: *k2, p2: rep from * to the end of row.

Next row: *p2, k2; rep from * to the end of row.

Next row: *k2, p2; rep from * to the end of row.

Next row: k to the end of row.

Rep last row 24 more times.

Next row: *k2tog, yo; rep from * to the end of row.

Next 3 rows: k to the end of row.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Leave a long tail for seaming purposes.

Block.

Small Breast Cancer Ribbon

Using the contrasting color pink, cast on 2 stitches.

Using the figure 8 method, create an icord that is approximately 16 rows long.

Bind off leaving a long tail.

Thread long tail through tapestry needle, fold the i-cord ribbon in half and use the long tail to secure it in this folded position. Using the yarn tail, sew the ribbon to the top side area of the wrister.

ASSEMBLY

Fold over at the top, along the eyelets for the area by the fingers. Thread tapestry needle with the yarn tail coming from the bind off edge. Sew the small flap in place—see pictures for guidance on how to complete this objective. When the fold is completely sewn, use the thread to mattress stitch along the top side, approximately one-inch along the side. Weave ends in.

Thread tapestry needle with yarn coming from the cast on edge, mattress stitch along the side, stopping approximately one-inch away from the top seam—you should have about a one-inch opening for the thumb.

Pass the elasticized ribbon through the eyelets along the wrist, make a small bow. Sew the bow, do not sew the bow to the knitted fabric, so the bow does not come undone.

 

Wristers Top Seam Close 1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Seaming the top

Wristers Top Seam Close 2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Top section seamed.

Wristers Seam

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mattress stitch along side .

 

 

5 Comments

  • Very nice…feminine and sweet! :)

  • i like matte non pink ribbon but I wish on it so I am deaf woman .

  • Thank you :)

  • These are super sweet, and such a great way to support Breast Cancer Awareness.

  • Hi! I’m new here. Just received my All in One Knitting Board. Still trying to figure out how to work with it. Hope to be able to do some great projects.

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Oct 7, 2014

Stitchology II

Puff Stitch

Happy Autumn!  This is my absolute favorite time of year.  I simply can’t get enough of it!  Puff Stitch SquareI am thrilled by simple things like hay mazes, big orange pumpkins in a field, chilly mornings, and candy corn.  It’s a season that is full of reasons to celebrate…of course it makes it all the better that my birthday is also in October, lol. ;)

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)

This month we’re going to celebrate the Fall Season by introducing the Puff Stitch, which greatly resembles pumpkins in a field, all connected by trailing vines.  Of course, this stitch will be terrific during all other times of the year, as well. It employs a really marvelous way to create elongated knit stitches on our looms, which result in all those lovely little puffs.

 

Puff Stitch Square

Puff Stitch

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Lion Wool in Pumpkin)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter)

Pattern Notes:

This stitch pattern would apply itself very nicely to a cozy hat, or a baby blanket.  To work this pattern in the round for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 10—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, begin with the Set Up Rows, then simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

The elongated knit stitch, notated in the pattern as k², is created using the following method (the row numbers are as you would find the steps in the Puff Stitch Square pattern further below):

*to see a photo enlarged, just click to open, then click to open again.


Knitting Chart Key k2

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Pumpkin Patch (Puff) Square Chart

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Repeating Pattern Rows

Pumpkin Patch (Puff) Stitch Chart

Row 1:  p6, k²3, p1

Rows 2:  k²5, p5

Row 3:  p5, k²5

Row 4:  k²5, p5

Rows 5:  p5, k²5

Row 6:  k²5, p5

Rows 7 & 8:  p6, k²3, p1

Row 9:  k²5, p5

Row 10:  p5, k²5

Row 11:  k²5, p5

Row 12:  p5, k²5

Row 13:  k²5, p5

Row 14:  p6, k²3, p1

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 32 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Repeat the following 2 row pattern 3 times, for a total of 6 rows:

Row a: k32

Row b: p32

Main Pattern Rows

Repeat the following 14 row pattern 3 times, for a total of 42 rows:

Puff Stitch Square 3D Row 1:  p1, work Row 1 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 2:  p1, work Row 2 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 3:  p1, work Row 3 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 4:  p1, work Row 4 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 5:  p1, work Row 5 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 6:  p1, work Row 6 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Rows 7 & 8:  p1, work Row 7 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 9:  p1, work Row 9 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 10:  p1, work Row 10 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 11:  p1, work Row 11 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 12:  p1, work Row 12 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 13:  p1, work Row 13 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 14:  p1, work Row 14 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Finishing Rows

Repeat the following 2 row pattern 3 times, for a total of 6 rows:

Row a: p32

Row b: k32

Puff Stitch Square-angleBind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.  If you’d like to give your puffs more of a 3D affect, you can carefully place small balls of plastic wrap under each little puff during the pinning process of the blocking. I found that Glad Cling Wrap worked really well for this as it has a bit of stick to it, which helped the balls stay in place.

Afghan Notes:

If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

 

14 Comments

  • i sure hope you will do a video on this.puff stitch square. Personally, I learn better by watching it actually being done.. It’s so pretty

  • Hi Jen :) I’m not sure if there will be a video in the next few days, but possibly in the next few weeks. ;) I really think that this stitch is so easy that you could definitely get it by following each of the tutorial photos step by step. Build your loom knitting skills by just diving in and giving it a try…I bet you’ll be surprised at how quick and easy it is to accomplish! :D

  • I was wondering how you do row 14 on the top of the puff stitch.

  • Hi Jean :)

    You just work it as the chart states, working normal purls in the spots at the previous elongated knits, and start over again with new elongated knits in the places where the new puffs begin. You’ll be purling with the the three elongated stitches as you would usually purl…there will just be a little extra yarn there to purl with. ;)

  • Your puff square is fabulous, Bethany! Great work!

  • Thank you for the great instructions and the pictures were most helpful. It is an easy stitch. I have senior moments so I got extra practice lol. It reminds me of polka dots and I could see this as a scarf with 60′s retro pink, orange, and white. Thanks again.

  • Oh, that would be really cute, Cindy! The first swatch I made on this was created with a different yarn of a more reddish color and all of my family *separately* said this stitch looked like “Meatballs in Sauce!” Lol. I like pumpkins, puffs, and polka dots much better. ;)

  • I would love to see a video on this especially for the elongated knit. Thanks

  • Thank you for teaching these stitches which I am always looking for something new and different to put together. I am making a hat on the new hat loom unfortunately I am not using all the pegs. I am using the 42 pegs, double strand yard. Can I incorporate this stitch on top of my brim?

  • Hi Bethany – I will definitely share this on my page, just the pictures of course with links back here to the pattern.
    Beautiful. You, my Loomy sister are blessed !
    denise

  • […] is the second stitch in a series the Knittingboardchat.com blog calls Stitchlogy. I love the look you get with this technique. I can’t help but think of […]

  • Hi Teresa! :) I don’t see why you couldn’t incorporate this stitch on your hat…I would love to see photos of how it turns out!

    Thank you so much, Denise! :) Glad you are enjoying the new stitches.

  • can I ask if you are wrapping your knit stitches or if they are flat knitted?

  • This is not ewrapped.

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Oct 1, 2014

Fit for a Princess

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As soon as we saw this cute design, we knew that many loom knitters would be interested in trying it out. Carrie Johnson has been kind enough to allow us to share her pattern in blog. We hope you enjoy it. A little bit about Carrie:  Carrie is a single mom of four children, ranging in ages of 5-20 yrs old! She lives on a small goat farm out in California. She has been loom knitting for about 3 years and just began to learn to read patterns. She recently started writing down all of her designs, and she has four published patterns so far and more to come! Contact Carrie.

Knitting loom: KB adjustable hat loom
Yarn: approx 30-40 yds of worsted weight yarn.
Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle, stitch markers,
Other: Stick on jewels to decorate or other decor of choice.

Abbreviations

K: Knit (e-wrap)
P=Purl

Pattern note:  I used two strands of yarn, since the yarn I used was thin. If using a #3 weight yarn, you might want
to double your strands. A #4 yarn you might use one strand, two strands can be use for a thicker crown. One
strand of #5 can be used as well, even though I haven’t made the crown in bulky yet, it should still work!

INSTRUCTIONS

Set up: Set your loom in the extra small configuration- using 2 connectors and 2 round parts. Place pegs in every
hole.

Using your stitch markers divide pegs into 8 sections with 7 pegs in each section.
Ex: pegs 1-7 is one section, pegs 8-14 is another section and so on…

Cast on 56 stitches, join to work in the round.
Rnds 1, 3, 5, 7: k to the end.
Rnds: 2, 4, 6, 8: p to the end.

Points for the Crown
~Each section is worked separately, in rows.

Starting with the first section pegs 1-7:

*Row 1: k to end of section

Row 2: p to end of section*

Decrease as follows: Move loop from peg 1 to peg 2 and loop from peg 7 to peg 6.

Repeat from * to *.  (Pegs that have two loops on them, treat both loops as one loop.)

Next: Decrease as follows: move loop from peg 2 to peg 3 and loop from peg 6 to peg 5.

Repeat from * to *.  (Pegs that have two loops on them, treat both loops as one loop.)

Next: Decrease as follows: move loop from peg 3 to peg 4 and loop from peg 5 to peg 4.

Next: Knit peg 4. Purl peg 4.

Cut yarn leaving a 6 inch tail:  knit peg and pull yarn tail through.
One point done.

To start next point, make a slip knot and add yarn to peg 8 (you’ll now be working on pegs 8-14) and repeat
Points for the Crown section. Repeat with each section. 8 points completed at the end of project.
Weave in yarn ends.
Decorate
Enjoy!

 (c)2014, Carrie Johnson. All rights reserved. Published on www.knittingboardchat.com/blog with permission. 

4 Comments

  • Carrie,
    Very cute! I don’t have a young lady to work one for, but if I did, she would be the proud owner of your very clever crown. Can’t wait to see more of your work very ice indeed!!

    Sue K.

  • Cute as can be, Carrie! My little girlie said I need to get her one so she can wear it on her head and pretend to be Princess Peach :)

  • Thank you so much for sharing this adorable crown. I will be making a one for my granddaughter, plus several for friends granddaughters. They are all Princesses. :)

  • Thanks for letting me know. We have corrected it. Row 13 should say Row 12, row 14, row 13, etc.

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Sep 27, 2014

Ameline Shawl

Amelina600

We close the month of Shawl-September with Ameline, a simple lace pattern that spreads throughout the shawl to resemble cascading drops. We hope you have enjoyed the shawls during our first Shawl-September.

Knitting loom: All-n-One Knitting Loom

Yarn: 620-900 yards of light worsted weight merino wool. Malabrigo Rastita in Dewberry was used in sample.

Notions: knitting tool, row counter (optional), tapestry needle, eight stitch/peg markers.

Gauge: 16 sts x 18 rows= 2 inches in stitch pattern, blocked.

Size: 16 inches x 36 inches

Abbreviations

K: knit stitch

P: purl stitch

Sl1: slip 1-skip one peg with yarn behind the peg.

Rep: repeat

K2tog: knit two stitches together. Over two pegs, working on the knitting loom from a right to left direction—peg 1 is on the right, peg 2 is on the left.  Move stitch from peg 1 to peg 2. Leave peg 1 empty. Treat both loops on peg 2 as one loop.

YO: yarn over (ewrap peg)—special note: on the following row after creating the YO, undo the ewrap on the peg and simply lay the yarn in front of the peg.

Sl1-k1-psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over. Over two pegs, working on the knitting loom from a right to left direction—peg 1 is on the right, peg 2 is on the left. Skip peg 1 with yarn behind the peg, knit peg 2. Move loop from peg 2 over to peg 1, lift bottommost loop off peg 1.

Zig Zag Stitch Pattern
Multiple of 6+1

Row 1, 3, 5 (from right to left direction): *sl1-k1-psso, k2, yo, k2; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 2, 4, 6: k to the end of row.

Row 7, 9, 11: k3, *YO, k2, k2tog, k2; rep from * to last 4 sts, YO, k2, k2tog.

Row 8, 10, 12: k to the end of row.

Pattern note: the shawl pictured is 40 inches in length and used 600 yards of yarn, if you desire a longer shawl, you will need approximately 800 yards of yarn. A special note about yarn—we recommend using a wool base yarn to allow the lace to be blocked..

INSTRUCTIONSAmelina Shawl Close Up

Cast on 93 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Border rows

Row 1: k to the end of row.

Row 2: p to the end of row.

Rep last two rows four more times.

End of border rows, continue to body rows below

Tip: Place a stitch marker on pegs 1-4 and on peg 90-93. Maintain the garter stitch border on the first 4 pegs and last 4 pegs, the pegs with the stitch/peg markers on them.

Row 1: k4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 1, k4.

Row 2: p4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 2, p4.

Row 3: k4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 3, k4.

Row 4: p4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 4, p4.

Row 5: k4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 5, k4.

Row 6: p4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 6, p4.

Row 7: k4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 7, k4.

Row 8: p4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 8, p4.

Row 9: k4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 9, k4.

Row 10: p4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 10, p4.

Row 11: k4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 11, k4.

Row 12: p4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 12, p4.

Rep last 12 rows until item measures approx 34 inches from cast on edge (or desired length of shawl).

Next 10 rows: repeat the 10 border rows.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave ends in. Steam block or wet block to desired measurements—blocking the item will allow the eyelets formed by the yarn overs to open up more. Tip: When blocking, use blocking wires to have straight edges.

 

8 Comments

  • can i ask a question about the ameline shawl pattern regarding the pattern rows 1, and 7 and will i receive a response. please let me know and then i will do so. thanks, debra

  • If the answer is within our knowledge, yes, if not, we will direct you where you could find the answer.

  • onr row 1 : slip peg 1, knit peg 2, move loop 2 on peg 1, k over, move loop on peg 3 to peg 2, move loop on peg 4 to 3, k2, yo k2 and repeat. is my interpretation correct?
    do u use regular knit stitch and not ewrap or ustitch.
    on row 3 i’m totally confused if i move loops to left to get empty peg and then have 2 loops on pegs. do i have to start at the end and adjust loops? can u please explain. thanks very much, debra

  • i think i’ve got it. row 3: move loop from peg 6 to 7, 5 to 6 and 4 to 5. yo peg 4 knit peg 5 and 6 and knit peg 7 which has two loops, k2 and then repeat. is this correct? thanks, debra

  • Debra,
    Row 1, 3 and 5: Work the 4 garter stitch edge stitches, then commence the Zig Zag stitch pattern as follows:
    Step 1: Skip peg 1 with yarn behind the peg.
    Step 2: knit peg 2.
    Step 3: move loop from peg 2 over to peg 1.
    Step 4: Lift bottommost loop off peg 1.
    Step 5: Move loops as follows: from 3 to 2, from 4 to 3. 4 is empty.
    Step 6: knit peg 2 and 3.
    Step 7: YO on peg 4.
    Step 8: knit peg 5 and 6.

    Let me know if the above helps, it is over 6 pegs. The last rep of the shawl, will have the 6 stitches, plus one more stitch.

  • Thank you so much! I love your patterns and have bought quite a few over the years!

  • thanks isela for the detail description. another quick question. do you suggest regular knit stitch or can i use ewrap or uknit. thanks, debra

  • True knit stitch.

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Sep 23, 2014

Yarn Yammer: A Few of my Favorite Yarns

 

When I was asked to do a yarn review column I was excited! After all I have loved yarn since even before I was a knitter! When I was little I love to get my hands on the stuff and just play. I made little yarn dolls, sewed with it, glued it on stuff and just about anything I could imagine up! So now here is my chance to play with some yarn again, and tell you all about it.

I thought I would start out with a few of my favorite ‘go to’ yarns. These are the ones I love to use and I know will work well on looms and needles.

encore colorspun

Plymouth Encore is one of my first choices when I do a project. Encore comes in a variety of yarn weights from DK up to super bulky and since it is a 75% acrylic, and wool blend it is machine washable and dryable while still being able to be blocked nicely to define your stitch patterns.

The worsted weights come in 128 solid colors and 64 ‘colorspun’ options which is a color changing yarn that coordinates very well with the solids. Plymouth Encore also comes in a center pull ball so there is not winding necessary!

The only downside to this yarn is that it is only available through local yarn shops or online, not at larger stores like Joann Fabrics or Michaels.

 

 

My other go to worsted weight yarn is Patons Classic wool. This is an 100% wool yarn which means you will need to hand wash it, but also means it will block beautifully! Being a wool yarn, it will also have some more give to it, so it is really ideal for stitch patterns that require you to manipulate the yarn a bit like lace and cables, the more stretch a yarn has, the less likely you are to break, or pull out a peg when you are looming. It is not the softest yarn, but it is soft enough for next to the skin wear, and will keep you cozy and warm.

 

lornashepherd

For socks I have two favorites! The first is Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock yarn. I have to admit, that I have a bit of a loyalty to Lorna’s Laces due to the yarn’s namesake being the one who launched me on my book writing career. That said the yarn is wonderful! It is soft, 100% super-wash merino; which means it’s machine washable and durable. This yarn comes in a variety of solids and multi-colors that are all beautiful. I have gotten more complements on the colors of my knits when using this yarn, than any other. There are two downsides to this yarn first it is available through local yarn shops and online. Second, it comes in skeins, so you will need to wind it up into a ball or yarn cake before you start knitting!

My second choice for go to sock yarn is Patons Kroy Sock yarn. This yarn is a 75% woo 25% acrylic blend. I have found it to be very durable, and the colors are lovely too! I have made socks for my little boys with this yarn, and they grew out of them before the socks wore out!

Kroy Sock is available at Joann fabrics, and comes in a center pull ball, so not winding here! It is machine washable and dryable as well, so all in all there are no downsides to it!

 

 malabrigolace

For lace hands down the race goes to team Uruguay! (These yarns make me want to visit my brother who lives there all the more!)  Manos Del Uruguay and Malabrigo are my picks!

Manos del Uruguay lace is a 70% Baby Alpaca, 25% Silk, 5% Cashmere blend, giving it softness, warmth and strength that has no match!

Malabrigo lace is 100% Baby Merino wool, which is soft and strong and makes the hand dyed colors pop out in bold vibrant shades.

Both of these yarns come in skeins, so you will need to wind them up. They are a bit pricey, but worth EVERY penny! They also only usually can be found in local yarn shops and online.

Both have a range of beautiful hand dyed colors. They are both companies that help local artisans, look for ways to be ecologically responsible in their manufacturing processes, and love independent designers. All pluses in my book!

Well, those are some of my top pick go to yarns, I hope you get to play with some of them yourself. Leave me a comment, and let me know what your go to yarns are, I would love to know!

I also look forward to playing with some more yarns and letting you know all about them! Until next time, keep knitting, and remember.. if you mess up, it’s only yarn, you can unravel it and try again!

 

3 Comments

  • Mmmm…yummy yarns! :D I love them all, but have to say that Plymouth Encore is also one of my own favorite go-to yarns…perfect for just about anything worsted or chunky and has really great “bounce”.

    Looking forward to hearing about more yarns from you, Denise! :)

  • My most favorite go to yarn is from Knit Picks. I love their 100% wool and wool blends. They work great on the loom and hand knitting. Red Heart is always in my stash for a quick go to for scarves, hats and other projects. Others I enjoy working with are Bernat, Caron, Lion Brand, Deborah Norville. I have used so many brands, it is hard to pick just one, but top pick has to go to yarns from the Knit Pick Co. They are my favorite go to place.

    Sue Kreitzer

  • Nice feature, Denise! I fear my fiber wishlist will grow exponentially with each article you write…

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