Sep 12, 2014

Mystic Shawl- Double knit

mysticshawlJust enough warmth – cover the shoulders and back with this beautiful shawl.  Knit in Open Braid Stitch with soft, random stripes, and knit in 3 easy pieces. Great for beginner to advanced knitters. One size will fit most.  48” from back tip to front edges.

Needed:

Loom: 28” Knitting Board + ext, or original 28″ Knitting Board

Notions: Knit Hook, Crochet hook and darning needle

Yarn: Worsted weight roving yarn, 260 yds per skein. green=(5) skeins  blue=(1) skein

Sides of this shawl are rectangular.  The center back is knit in a square shape that joins the front with shoulder seams, and falls to point in back.

Long Front Sides:  (knit 2)

Cast On (56) stitches with green yarn.  Lay anchor yarn. See box for review of Open Braid Stitch.

With each color change, we will cut yarn and knot after tying on the next color

Knit (12) rows in green.

Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut green and knot.

Knit (2) rows in blue.

Tie in Green yarn.

Knit (18) rows.

Tie on Blue yarn.

Knit (4) rows.

Tie on Green yarn.

Knit (20) rows.

Tie on Blue yarn.

Knit (6) rows.

Tie on Green yarn.

Knit(10) rows.

Bind Off board.

Bind Off at anchor yarn.

Knit the 2nd piece of Long Front Side

Square Back Piece:

Cast On (64) Stitches in Green.

Lay anchor yarn.

Knit (8) rows in green.

 

Open Braid Stitch:

Weave yarn around needle #1 on top board, down to needle #4 on bottom board. (closest to knitter). Weave every other needle to end.  End stitches will be consecutive.  Return to cover all needles skipped.  Hook over all.

Tie in Blue.

Knit (4) rows.

Tie in Green yarn.

Knit (18) rows.

Tie in Blue yarn.

Knit (3) rows.

Tie in Green yarn.

Knit (18) rows.

Tie in Blue yarn.

Knit (3) rows.

Tie in Green yarn.

Decrease (1) stitch at beginning of each row for (8) rows.

After first decrease, start row on needles #2 and #5.  Use this row start on every other row.  In other words, for these (8) decrease rows, start row 1,3,5,7 on needles #2 and #5.  The other rows, start on the usual #1 and #4.  This adjustment will keep the Open Braid in correct sequence.

Bind Off of board and Anchor yarn.

Finishing:

Sew one short end of Front piece to Back matching to decrease edge.

Sew 2nd side of Front to Back matching the other side of decrease edge.

The decrease corner of back is at the back of neck.

 

Optional:  You may choose to add fringe to the front bottom edges.  You may also want to add a hidden snap at front neckline to secure the shawl.  The shape of the shawl stays put on your shoulders and our sample does not have a fastener.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leave a comment

     share this post: Share 'Mystic Shawl- Double knit' on Delicious Share 'Mystic Shawl- Double knit' on Digg Share 'Mystic Shawl- Double knit' on Facebook Share 'Mystic Shawl- Double knit' on Google+ Share 'Mystic Shawl- Double knit' on LinkedIn Share 'Mystic Shawl- Double knit' on Pinterest Share 'Mystic Shawl- Double knit' on reddit Share 'Mystic Shawl- Double knit' on StumbleUpon Share 'Mystic Shawl- Double knit' on Twitter Share 'Mystic Shawl- Double knit' on Add to Bookmarks Share 'Mystic Shawl- Double knit' on Email Share 'Mystic Shawl- Double knit' on Print Friendly
Sep 8, 2014

Whimsical Loom Knits – September 2014

Hello! My name is Jenny Stark.  I am so excited to be joining you here at Knitting Board Chat!  Once a month, I will be sharing a whimsical little project that you can make with your KB looms.  These projects will be fast and fun – perfect for squeezing in to your busy schedule.  After all, you know what they say about all work and no play…  So, let’s chase those doldrums away with a little bit of yarn!

Layered Loopy Flower

This darling little flower is a great way to use up little bits of yarn left over from other projects.  Make a handful of flowers and use them to embellish hats, bags, hair clips, cards, etc.

IMG_2661 (1024x768)

Loom:  Kb Hat Loom, set up for small gauge.  (This project only requires 2 pegs- one of the 9 peg rails was used for the samples.)

Yarn:  Approximately 5 yards of a #4 yarn.  Each layer of this flower uses about 2.5 yards of yarn.  Work it all in one color, or use two different colors for variety.  Samples use various yarns, including Mosaic by Bernat, Boutique Unforgettable by Red Heart, and Sheep(ish) by Caron.

Notions:  Knitting tool, scissors, yarn needle, button, needle and thread.

Gauge:  Not important for this project.

Size:  About 2″ in diameter.

Instructions

Flower (make 2)

Cast on 2 pegs.

Knit peg 2, twelve times.

Move the stitch on peg 2 over to peg 1.  Knit the bottom stitch over.  (1st petal loop now created)

*Cast a new stitch on to peg 2.

Knit peg 2, twelve times.

Move the stitch on peg 2 over to peg 1.  Knit the bottom stitch over.  (next petal loop now created)

Repeat from * until there are six petals total.

Bind off:  Cut yarn, leaving a 5″ yarn tail.  Knit the last stitch and pull the yarn tail out through the last stitch.  Gently pull on the yarn tail to tighten the bind off.

Forming the flower:  Your knitted piece will be a bit of a jumble when you first take it off of the loom:

IMG_2665 (800x600)

Turn it over, and straighten it out.

IMG_2666 (800x600)

Now it is time for a little needle magic.  Thread the yarn tail from the bind off side through the eye of your yarn needle.  Pass the needle through the bottom of the first petal (where the cast on tail is):

IMG_2667 (800x600)

then pass the needle down through the two loops at the bottom of the next petal:

IMG_2669 (726x800)

Continue to stitch down through the two loops at the bottom of each petal, gently gathering the center of the flower as you work.  When you are finished forming the flower, pass the needle through the center of the flower to the back side.  Your finished flower will look like this:

IMG_2670 (800x600)

Set the first flower aside and make the second flower.

Finishing: Stack one flower on top of the other.  Use the yarn tails to sew the top flower to the bottom flower.  Weave in all ends.

Using the needle and thread, sew a button to the center of the flower. (If preferred, the button can be applied with hot glue.)  

Now – go and make a handful of flowers!  Happy embellishing!

IMG_2672 (800x600)

5 Comments

  • That makes a very sweet flower. Thanks for sharing your creativity.

  • I love it! Such a cute embellishment for any kind of project…or just as a pin or a hair band! I’m so glad we’ll be hearing regularly from such a talented loomer! :)

  • oh i love it….thanks for sharing :)

    Love the last line ‘Now – go and make a handful of flowers!’ :D

  • Anything with the word Whimsical hooks me in… As always Jenny – Lovin it :)
    denise

  • Thanks to each of you for your kind comments. Have a great day!

Leave a comment

     share this post: Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – September 2014' on Delicious Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – September 2014' on Digg Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – September 2014' on Facebook Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – September 2014' on Google+ Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – September 2014' on LinkedIn Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – September 2014' on Pinterest Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – September 2014' on reddit Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – September 2014' on StumbleUpon Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – September 2014' on Twitter Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – September 2014' on Add to Bookmarks Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – September 2014' on Email Share 'Whimsical Loom Knits – September 2014' on Print Friendly
Sep 6, 2014

Meadowbrook Shawl

Meadowbrook2600

During the month of September, we will be bringing you Shawl September, four beautiful Shawl designs, released every Friday. We will start the month with Meadowbrook, a lovely lacey shawl with a simple lace design through out the shawl. It is rectangular in shape making it versatile as a shawl, or a scarf, or if you seam both ends together a cowl.

Knitting loom: All-n-One Knitting loom; pattern uses 93 pegs.

Yarn: Approx 750 yds of Malabrigo Silky Merino wool. Sample was knit using  color Manzanilla Olive

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle (to weave ends in).

Gauge: Approx 10sts x 18 rows= 2 inches

Size: Approx 18″ wide x 74″ Wet Blocked.

Meadowbrook3600

Abbreviations:

K=knit stitch.

P=purl stitch.

K2tog=knit two stitches together as one stitch.

YO=Yarn over.

Ssk=knit two stitches together as one stitch.

CDC=Central double decrease.

sts=stitches.

Instructional How To:

K2tog: A knit two together–takes place over 2 stitches. The decrease slants to the right.  Peg 1 is on the right, Peg 2 is on the left. The knitter is going on a Right to Left direction on the loom. Move the loop from peg 1 over to peg 2. Peg 1 is empty (open), Peg 2 has two loops on it. When you reach peg 2, work both loops on the peg as one loop.

SSK: A slip, slip, knit–takes place over 2 stitches. The decrease slants to the left. Peg 1 is on the right, peg 2 is on the left. The knitter is going on a Right to Left direction on the loom. Move the loop from peg 2 over to peg 1. Peg 1 has two loops , peg 2 is empty (open). When you reach peg 1, work both loops on the peg as one loop.

YO:Yarn over, also known as Yarn Forward. Ewrap the peg in a counterclockwise direction. On the following row when you reach the peg and  you need to knit the peg, undo the ewrap and place the strand of yarn in front of the peg and treat the strand as the loop on the peg.

Central double decrease:  Takes place over 3 pegs. Peg 1 is on the right, peg 2 is in the middle, peg 3 is on the left. The knitter isMeadowbrook1600 going on a Right to Left direction on the loom. Move the loop from peg 2 over to peg 1. Move loop from peg 3 over to peg 2. Take yarn behind peg 1. Knit peg 2. Move the loop from peg 2 over to peg 1. Lift the bottommost 2 loops up and off the peg. Move the remaining loop back to peg 2. Peg 1 and peg 3 are empty.

INSTRUCTIONS

 

Cast on 93 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Edge rows

Row 1, 3, 5, 7 (right to left row): k to the end of row.

Row 2, 4, 6, 8: p to the end of row.

Main Body

Next 10 rows: Maintain the garter stitch pattern over the first 4 sts and last 4 sts of the row. Center 85 sts, work in the horseshoe stitch pattern from chart below (multiple of 12+13).

Repeat last 10 rows: 45 more times

End of Main Body

Edge rows

Next 8 rows: work in garter stitch (total of 4 garter stitch ridges).

Bind off. Weave ends in. Wet block to measurements.

 

Meadowbrook-chart

Divider

Need a little extra help with the lace stitch pattern? We have broken down below Row 1 of the lace stitch pattern for you.

Recommendations: move the stitches before working the row.

How to:

Knit pegs 1 to 4. (Garter stitch on edge stitches).

The first two pegs of lace portion shown in the chart (pegs 5 and 6 on your loom), on every other row (every odd row), you will do a k2tog. As follows:

Step 1: Lift loop from peg 1 and hold it.

Step 2: Move loop from peg 2 over to peg 1.

Step 3: Place the loop from step 1 back on peg 1.

Step 4: knit peg 1, treating both loops as one loop.

The following portion of the instructions are the part that you will repeat until you reach the last 12 pegs of the shawl stitches (not counting the 4 edge stitches); the original chart shows it inside the blocked out square. 

Mark the next 12 pegs as follows (peg 1 should be on your right side, then count 12 pegs to the left) Number 1 is in red as it is the edge stitch that you already created above, so we are not going to count it

13, 12, 11, 10,9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1.

Instead, we are going to renumber them as follows:

12, 11, 10,9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1, 1.

Notice how we have two number 1s, one is for the edge stitch (the k2tog you created above) and the other is for the lace stitch pattern repeat. Ignore the one in red for the rest of the row instructions.

Lace repeat section

**Step 1: Move loops from peg 2 to 1, from 3 to 2, from 4 to 3, from 5 to 4. Leave peg 5 open (with no loop).

Step 2: Knit peg 1 to 4

Step 3: YO (ewrap) peg 5.

Step 4: knit peg 6.

Step 5: Do a YO on peg 6—the ewrap will be on top of the loop that is on the peg.

Step 6: Knit from peg 7 to peg 10.

Step 7: move loop from peg 12 over to peg 11.

Step 8: move loop from peg 1 (from the next block of lace) over to peg 12.

Step 9: knit peg 12.

Step 10: move loop from peg 12 to peg 11. Lift bottommost two loops up and off the peg.

Step 11: move the loop remaining on peg 11 over to peg 12. (At this point, you should have peg 1 and 11 open (empty).

Step 12: move loops as follows: from peg 10 to 11, from 9 to 10, from 8 to 9, from 7 to 8, and lastly, move the ewrap that is on top of peg 6 over to peg 7.

Repeat from **Step 1, until the last 16 pegs (until you reach peg 77 on the knitting loom).

From peg 79-89, we will work the last chart repeat as follows over 12 pegs (pegs 90-93 are the garter stitch edge stitches):

Step 1: Move loops from peg 2 to 1, from 3 to 2, from 4 to 5, from 5 to 4. Leave peg 5 open (with no loop).

Step 2: Knit peg 1 to 4

Step 3: YO (ewrap) peg 5.

Step 4: knit peg 6.

Step 5: Do a YO on peg 6—the ewrap will be on top of the loop that is on the peg.

Step 6: Knit from peg 7 to peg 10.

Step 7: Move loop from 12 to 11.

Step 8: Knit peg 11.

Step 9: Move loop from 11 to 12; 10 to 11; 9 to 10; 8 to 9; 7 to 8, YO to peg 7.

End of lace portion

Knit the last 4 pegs for the garter stitch ridge.

Row 1 of the lace stitch pattern is complete.

Row 2: purl 4, k to last 4 sts, purl 4. 

 

19 Comments

  • IS there any way to download these pattern instructions?

  • Is there any way to download these instructions?

  • Highlight everything, copy and paste onto a word document.

  • Highlight everything, copy and paste onto a word document.

  • This is so so so stunning, Isela! I absolutely love this stitch pattern!

  • This is a beautiful shawl, Isela! Your work is always fantastic!

  • It is beautiful .I am new at looming but Ithink I will try it and hope it works wish me luck.

  • ** Beautiful work! I have a question regarding peg #3. The instructions are as follows:

    Step 1: Move loops from peg 2 to 1, from 3 to 2, from 4 to 5, from 5 to 4. Leave peg 5 open (with no loop).

    Step 2: Knit peg 1 to 4

    ** per step 1 peg #3 is left empty. Per step #2 I’m supposed to knit peg 3. So do I ewrap peg 3 so it can be knitted? Thanks :-)

  • Thank you!

  • Thank you!

  • Does K2tog and Ssk mean exactly the same thing? They both say knit two stitches together as one stitch.

  • I wish you would make a video tutorial. This is a very advanced pattern and at the risk of sounding like a dingbat, it’s just very complicated. I am a tactile learner and would very much benefit from a video showing how to do the stitches. I am new to looming and don’t even know how to read the chart above. What does each symbol represent? I have no clue.

  • Oh, duh, I now see the key at the bottom of the chart. I still would really do better with a video tutorial. Thanks!! These shawls are gorgeous!!

  • Mary, the k2tog leans to the right, the ssk leans to the left. They are done a little differently, both over two pegs, going from Right to Left, peg 1 on the right peg 2 on the left. k2tog-move the stitch from peg 1 to peg 2, knit peg 2 treating both loops as one loop. ssk-move stitch from peg 2 over to peg 1, knit peg 1 treating both loops on peg as one loop, now move the loop from peg 1 over to peg 2.

  • Is there a way to make this wider than 18″? I like this stitch pattern but would like to see if it can be made between 18 & 24 inches wide.

  • Sherry, I believe I missed a peg there–I think Step 1 should read as follows: Move loops from peg 2 to 1, from 3 to 2, from 4 to 3, from 5 to 4. Leave peg 5 open (with no loop).

  • Could you please give more details on row 7?

  • Jennifer, on Row 7 of the Meadowbrook Shawl? From the chart?

  • Yes,for the Meadowbrook Shawl, like you did for row 1. I’m sure it’s not that complicated for most, but I can’t figure out what the exact steps would be. I’m mainly unclear on the k2tog and ssk with the yo on either side. For the k2tog, the basic instructions say to move the loop from peg 1 to peg 2, but the detailed instructions for row 1 say to move the loop on peg 2 to peg 1. I realize the peg 2 loop goes under the peg 1 loop resulting in basically the same outcome, but because of the difference in the two instructions I’m not sure if, on row 7, the loop on peg 11 gets moved to peg 10 under the existing loop or if peg 10 loop gets moved to peg 11. Same with the ssk on pegs 4 & 5.

Leave a comment

     share this post: Share 'Meadowbrook Shawl' on Delicious Share 'Meadowbrook Shawl' on Digg Share 'Meadowbrook Shawl' on Facebook Share 'Meadowbrook Shawl' on Google+ Share 'Meadowbrook Shawl' on LinkedIn Share 'Meadowbrook Shawl' on Pinterest Share 'Meadowbrook Shawl' on reddit Share 'Meadowbrook Shawl' on StumbleUpon Share 'Meadowbrook Shawl' on Twitter Share 'Meadowbrook Shawl' on Add to Bookmarks Share 'Meadowbrook Shawl' on Email Share 'Meadowbrook Shawl' on Print Friendly
Sep 1, 2014

Stitchology I

Herringbone Stitch & Working with Charts

Herringbone Square angleHi!  My name is Bethany Dailey and I’m new here at Knitting Board Chat. I am so happy to loom along with you!  In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intension for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)

The Ins and Outs of Chart Reading

First up is the Herringbone Stitch.  This is a nice and easy stitch involving repeating rows of knits and purls.  The slightly tricky part of this stitch will be to keep proper count while working the pattern.  To help us along in this process we can use a couple of aids…the first of which is a knitting chart.

Here is the basic stitch chart for this particular pattern:

Herringbone Stitch-chart

When reading a knitting chart, you will be starting at the bottom right and working your way up the chart, from row to row.

Notice how the numbers across the bottom are listed from right to left?  This is because you will be casting onto your looms first from left to right, then your first row will be worked from right to left, matching up each peg number with each of the numbers on the chart bottom.

The numbers which are running up the sides of the chart represent your row count.  As you can see, row number 1 will be worked from right to left, as that is where that row number is designated on the chart.  Row number 2 will be worked from left to right, as that is where you will find the number 2 listed.

By alternating the sides that the row numbers are listed, you are given the clue that this pattern is meant to be worked as a flat panel. If this was a chart that was meant to be worked in the round, you would see each of the row numbers all listed on the same side, because in the process of knitting in the round, you would always be starting each row from that same spot as you worked around the loom.

Knitting Chart Key with grey copy

Now that you know which direction to read the chart, it’s time to decipher what the chart is actually saying.  For this, we need to take a look at the Chart Key.  Here is where the symbols you see in the chart are listed in knitting terms, along with their abbreviations.  For each symbol on the chart, a corresponding stitch will be worked in that exact spot of your row.

The herringbone stitch is a simple one, containing only 2 stitches: knit and purl.  Where you spot a blank square on the chart, you will knit.  Where you spot a dot, you will purl.  It’s as simple as that! :)

Oh, I did mention a couple of aids, right?

The second aid that I love to use while knitting pretty much every project is a good set of stitch markers— or peg Notionsmarkers, as we who love to loom knit tend call them.  These can be pretty much anything that will fit over your pegs, but won’t get in the way of the creation of your stitches.  I love to use them to mark the first and last pegs used in a pattern, as well as any other helpful places that remind me of what I’m supposed to be knitting.   In the case of the herringbone stitch, a good place for them is at the start of every pattern repeat during the row.

Another essential-to-me aid for keeping my place in a pattern I’m working is a good reliable row counter.  This can be a store bought one, a cell phone app, or even something as simple as marking little chicken scratches on a piece of paper at the end of every row.  However you want to do it, a row counter helps avoid lots of frustration in the long run.

Herringbone Stitch Square

Herringbone Stitch

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 105 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Patons Classic Wool Worsted in Jade Heather)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors, measuring tape.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter)

Pattern Notes:

With the beginning of the school year and those chilly Autumn days, this would be a terrific pattern to use as a cozy scarf for both guys and gals!  Simply increase the number of Main Pattern Rows for the length required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

 

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Herringbone Square-chart

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Repeating Pattern Rows

Herringbone Stitch-chart

Row 1:  k3, p2, k1, p2, k2

Row 2:  k1, p2, k3, p2, k2

Row 3:  k1, p2, k5, p2

Row 4:  p1, k2, p1, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 37 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Repeat the following 2 row pattern 3 times, for a total of 6 rows:

Row a: k37

Row b: p37

Main Pattern Rows

Repeat the following 4 row pattern 15 times, for a total of 60 rows:

Row 1:  k3, work Row 1 of repeating pattern to last 4 stitches, k4.

Row 2:  p3, k1, work Row 2 of repeating pattern to last 3 stitches, p3.

Row 3:  k3, work Row 3 of repeating pattern to last 4 stitches, k4.

Row 4:  p3, k1, work Row 4 of repeating pattern to last 3 stitches, p3.

Finishing Rows

Herringbone SquareRow a:  k3, work Row 1 of  repeating pattern to last 4 stitches, k4.

Row b:  p37

Row c:  k37

Row d:  p37

Row e: k37

Row f:  p37

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block lightly to 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

 

19 Comments

  • Bethany, it looks great! I would like to make a scarf with this pattern.
    Thanks a lot!

  • Thanks Bethany for doing this very much appreciated

  • I love this stitch. I have to wait until after I go to the craft fair in October but I can’t wait to see all the stitches and make some of these squares. Thank you!! :)

  • Congratulations on your new column Bethany.
    Look forward to seeing more Stitchology

  • Thank you. I love this pattern.

  • This is wonderful…. can’t wait to see more!!!

  • Bethany, Congratulations to you and I guess to all of us who follow you.
    This is exciting! I love this stitch and look forward to learning more
    techniques and stitches. Hurray!

  • Always glad to see Bethany’s patterns. You’ll make a great addition to the blog! (c;

  • Congratulations, again, Bethany! This is a wonderful article and lesson. Thank you! Although I have done this before you have made it much easier for me to break down the chart and pattern.I really have to work to get back to my looming. I also think I am going to have to start another notebook for your columns!! Well done!! Looking forward to your future articles!!

  • Great article, Bethany! And the Herringbone sampler looks fabulous! I’m looking forward to seeing the next stitch pattern.

  • If I wanted to do a hat on a round loom, would I have to change any of the instructions? I’m new at this.

  • Hi Deena :)

    In order to make a hat using these instructions, you would first of all be working in the round in a clockwise direction. This would change the way you would read the chart to every row starting from the right to the left, rather than alternating directions.

    Also, you would need to use only the 10 peg repeating stitch pattern chart, rather than the square pattern chart, because you wouldn’t need the borders of garter stitch.

    Because the stitch pattern uses 10 pegs, your hat would need to be knit using a total number of pegs divisible by 10…ei: 30, 50, 70, etc.

    Hope this helps! I’d love to see a photo of your hat when you’re all done! :)

  • Thanks for the instructions, Bethany! That helps tremendously!

  • Can I use the cable cast on method or will this make it more difficult to stitch my finished panels together?
    Thank you for the expert explanation of charts and including both charts and written directions. I am looking forward to looming along/ learning along with you thru all the panels. I am starting this weekend, as soon as my daughter returns my loom! Hum.. maybe I’ll get her one for Christmas. Thanks for taking the time.

  • Hi Cindy! :)

    The Cable Cast On is a bit loose and lacy, and also might be a tad different than your bind off, which will always create a bit of a difficulty when attempting to create true squares. If you are using the mattress stitch to seam the squares together, it might not matter, except that you would end up with looser stitches on the back sides of the seams. ;) Having said all that, my favorite cast on, and on the one that most matches the Basic BO is the Chain CO, sometimes referred to as the Crochet CO.

    I am so happy you’ll be looming along with us! :D

  • I haven’t loomed much and never from a chart. Do I slip the first stitch of every row after cast on? If yes, and the chart has that first stitch noted as a knit stitch, does the slip stitch count as a knit? Would the start of row 8 be slip, knit, knit, purl, purl? Sorry but I won’t learn if I don’t ask. Thanks

  • Don’t be sorry! It’s a good question. :)

    Nope…no slip stitches at all. Just do what each square on the chart tells you to do. When you’re making an item to be seamed together with other items, it’s usually better to not slip the first stitch of every row. ;)

  • Thank you for helping me with my slip stitch question Bethany. I am 7 rows from completion of my square. My gauge is a little less but I figured as long as all my squares are the same number of stitches and rows it will work. I’ll just make more squares if necessary.

    My question is, can I use the bind off method that is done on the knitting board as opposed to the crochet hook bind off? If I remember correctly, Isela had a simple on the board bind off. I have done the one they teach on the KB tutorial site but mine always ends up to tight.

    Thanks for your help. I am looking forward to the next square.

  • Hi Cindy! You’re very welcome for the slip stitch tips. :)

    As for the bind off, I like to use the Basic Bind Off, which is I believe, the one that Isela demonstrates. I feel it matches best with the Chain Cast On and it creates a really nice edge, without any pulling on the panel.

    Yay for square making! I’m excited you’re looming along! As for gauge, some of the squares will use a different number of pegs and rows, due to the differences in the stitch style itself, but as long as you follow exactly, your squares should all match, even if they’re not 8″ X 8″. ;) I know the square for October uses fewer pegs and rows, as it’s a looser kind of stitch.

    Talk with you soon!
    Bethany~

Leave a comment

     share this post: Share 'Stitchology I' on Delicious Share 'Stitchology I' on Digg Share 'Stitchology I' on Facebook Share 'Stitchology I' on Google+ Share 'Stitchology I' on LinkedIn Share 'Stitchology I' on Pinterest Share 'Stitchology I' on reddit Share 'Stitchology I' on StumbleUpon Share 'Stitchology I' on Twitter Share 'Stitchology I' on Add to Bookmarks Share 'Stitchology I' on Email Share 'Stitchology I' on Print Friendly
Aug 30, 2014

Autumn Slouch Hat

AutumnBackViewsmall

Pattern Information

Knitting Loom: KB Hat Loom. Use 40 pegs, large gauge setting.

Yarn: Super Bulky, 100% merino wool 90 yards per skein 150 grams per skein.  Sample was knit using Malabrigo Rasta in Sunset, 1 skein.

Notions: Knitting tool, tapestry needle, removable stitch marker.

Skills knowledge
knit stitch, purl stitch, e-wrap, gather removal method.

Abbreviations

  • k=knit stitch
  • p=purl stitch
  • ew=ewrap peg counterclockwise
  • sts=stitches
  • rnd=round
  • YO=ewrap (ewrap peg counterclockwise)
  • K2tog: knit two stitches together. Move the loop from right to the peg on the left, knit the peg with the two loops on it, treating both loops as one loop.

INSTRUCTIONSSideViewSmall2

Cast on 40 sts, join to work in the rnd.

Round 1-7: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 8-9: k to the end rnd.

Rnd 10 is broken into two parts: Rnd 10-A and Rnd 10-B

Rnd 10-A: *YO3; rep from * to end end of rnd. (How to: *Take yarn to peg 1, ewrap peg 1 three times; peg 1 has 4 loops. Repeat the same process with the remaining 39 pegs.).

Rnd 10-B:  k to the end of rnd.

(How to: lift the bottommost loop up and off the pegs; each peg should      remain with the 3 ewraps on it.)

TIP: Combine Rnd 10-A and 10-B as one Rnd as follows: Ewrap peg 3 times (for the YO3), then lift the bottommost loop, then move to the next peg and do the same. Each peg should have 3 loops on it.

YO close up YOs on loom

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rnd 11: k to the end of rnd.

(How to: First, unravel the ewraps from the peg (it will look like an elongated stitch). Take yarn to the front of the peg and knit the peg as normal. Be    careful that the stitch stays on the peg and does not “pop” off the peg.)

Rnd 12: As Rnd 10.

Rnd 13: p to the end of rnd.

Rnd 14: k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 15: p to the end of rnd.

Rep Rnds 12-15: 6 more times.

Rep Rnds 10 and 11.

Next rnd: *k2tog; rep from * to the end of rnd. (20 sts rem).

How to: move loop from odd number peg to the even number peg. Each    even peg (2, 4, 6, etc) should have 2 loops on it. Knit the round, treating both loops on each peg as one loop.

Autumn Slouch on Loom k2tog

Bind off with gather removal method. Weave ends in.

Set the stitches by gently tugging on the hat vertically. All the stitches should be elongated and open.

If you love the look of this pattern, be sure to check out Luisa Mangus’ Spring Breeze Slouchy Hat.  Need extra help? Luisa also has a YouTube video demonstrating all the steps. 

16 Comments

  • Can this be done on the aio loom?

  • Yes, you can do it all the AIO. You need to use worsted weight yarn and about 64 or 68 pegs. Follow the pattern exactly. You will need about 120 yds of yarn.

  • I really love the looks of this hat! And the color of the yarn (along with the name of it as well), goes right along with the slouch-type Rasta hats :)

  • Hi Isela, I’ve been a fan for more than 8 years. Can I do this on the regular knifty knitter looms?

  • Yes. I don’t know which loom you will use but if the peg number is not divisible by 4, your ribbing will be different. If you don’t have a multiple of 4 in pegs, do a 1×1 rib (k1,p1) for the brim. The rest should be exactly the same as written.

  • Do you have a video tutorial for this?

  • Do you do row 15 the same as row 12 just purl instead?

  • Rose, yep. Rnd 15: p to the end of rnd.

  • There is an error in this pattern. There are no rows between rows 12 and 13 to create the garter stitches that separate the sets of drop stitches. Instead, the pattern immediately goes into another set of drop stitches with no garter stitches to separate them.

  • Karen,
    The hat has 2 rounds of elongated stitches at the beginning, no garter stitch separates them. The reason why there is no garter stitch between those two rounds of elongated stitches is to not have a ridge right by the forehead area. I started the dropped stitches after that area. So this is what the hat should be: ribbed hem, 1 round of knit stitches to set up for the hat body. 2 rounds of elongated stitches. After these two rounds of elongated stitches, then we start with 2 garter stitch ridges, then 1 round of elongated stitches, we repeat starting at the 2 garter stitch ridges. Does this make sense?

  • I feel so dumb. I looked at the picture more closely and realized mine had looked like it was supposed to before I ripped it out. I missed that because the yarn is so thick and I thought I was seeing one round of elongated stitches when it was actually two. Thanks so much for your fast response. I hope I can save it.

  • If not, I think it will still look fabulous :). It will be an original!

  • Can you explain round 13 please? “As round ten” does that mean round 13 is 10a & 10b again? Thanks!

  • Yes, Round 10-A and 10-B.

  • Thanks Isela, this is a great pattern (as are all of your patterns)!

  • I have the pattern above that I printed out, but there is no line 12. It goes from 11 to 13. What is 12. I am fairly new at the loom knitting. I don’t know what to do for line 12. Thank you. Love the pattern and I hope mine turns out.

Leave a comment

     share this post: Share 'Autumn Slouch Hat' on Delicious Share 'Autumn Slouch Hat' on Digg Share 'Autumn Slouch Hat' on Facebook Share 'Autumn Slouch Hat' on Google+ Share 'Autumn Slouch Hat' on LinkedIn Share 'Autumn Slouch Hat' on Pinterest Share 'Autumn Slouch Hat' on reddit Share 'Autumn Slouch Hat' on StumbleUpon Share 'Autumn Slouch Hat' on Twitter Share 'Autumn Slouch Hat' on Add to Bookmarks Share 'Autumn Slouch Hat' on Email Share 'Autumn Slouch Hat' on Print Friendly
Aug 23, 2014

Brimmed Beanie


BrimmedBeanie copy

Knitting Loom: 40 peg, large gauge loom. Adjustable Hat Loom in Medium size (40 pegs) recommended.

Yarn: Super Bulky, 100% merino wool 90 yards per skein 150 grams per skein.  Sample was knit using Malabrigo Rasta in Electrica, 1 skein.

Other: Knitting tool, tapestry needle, removable stitch marker.

Abbreviations:

k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

rep=rep

Rnd=round

CO=cast on. If the cast on is at the beginning of a row, simply ewrap the peg that needs to be casted on.

Pattern notes
The item is worked flat for the brim and then it continues in the round for the body of the hat.

INSTRUCTIONS

Brim

Work a flat panel as follows: cast on 12 stitches (from left to right).

Row 1: p to the end of row.

Row 2: k to the end of row.

Row 3: co1, p to the end of row.

Row 4: co1, k to the end of row.

Rep Rows 1-4: 1 more time (16 sts total on the loom).

Body

At this point, continue knitting in the round as follows:

Next: [k2, p2] 4x. With e-wrap method, cast on all around the loom to begin working in the round. Place a removable stitch marker on any of the stitches on this round to mark the round.

Next 4 rounds: *k2, p2; rep from * to the end of the rnd.

Next round: knit to the end of round

Rep last round until item measures 6.5 inches from marker.

Bind off with gather removal method. Weave ends in.

Block lightly.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2 Comments

  • I purchased the new hat loom and I am totally baffled by the sizes they indicate on the chart. None of the sizes match the outcome of the piece. I have tried several different types of yarn, including the one they suggested but the hats are so much bigger than the chart indicated. Im very disappointed, is anyone else having this issue?

  • What type of stitch are you using? We used the Knit stitch not the ewrap in our calculations.

Leave a comment

     share this post: Share 'Brimmed Beanie' on Delicious Share 'Brimmed Beanie' on Digg Share 'Brimmed Beanie' on Facebook Share 'Brimmed Beanie' on Google+ Share 'Brimmed Beanie' on LinkedIn Share 'Brimmed Beanie' on Pinterest Share 'Brimmed Beanie' on reddit Share 'Brimmed Beanie' on StumbleUpon Share 'Brimmed Beanie' on Twitter Share 'Brimmed Beanie' on Add to Bookmarks Share 'Brimmed Beanie' on Email Share 'Brimmed Beanie' on Print Friendly
Pages:«1234567...38»

RSS Feed      


 take our button!

Join the Mailing List

How many pegs?

Categories

Blog Archives