Sep 6, 2014

Meadowbrook Shawl

Meadowbrook2600

During the month of September, we will be bringing you Shawl September, four beautiful Shawl designs, released every Friday. We will start the month with Meadowbrook, a lovely lacey shawl with a simple lace design through out the shawl. It is rectangular in shape making it versatile as a shawl, or a scarf, or if you seam both ends together a cowl.

Knitting loom: All-n-One Knitting loom; pattern uses 93 pegs.

Yarn: Approx 750 yds of Malabrigo Silky Merino wool. Sample was knit using  color Manzanilla Olive

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle (to weave ends in).

Gauge: Approx 10sts x 18 rows= 2 inches

Size: Approx 18″ wide x 74″ Wet Blocked.

Meadowbrook3600

Abbreviations:

K=knit stitch.

P=purl stitch.

K2tog=knit two stitches together as one stitch.

YO=Yarn over.

Ssk=knit two stitches together as one stitch.

CDC=Central double decrease.

sts=stitches.

Instructional How To:

K2tog: A knit two together–takes place over 2 stitches. The decrease slants to the right.  Peg 1 is on the right, Peg 2 is on the left. The knitter is going on a Right to Left direction on the loom. Move the loop from peg 1 over to peg 2. Peg 1 is empty (open), Peg 2 has two loops on it. When you reach peg 2, work both loops on the peg as one loop.

SSK: A slip, slip, knit–takes place over 2 stitches. The decrease slants to the left. Peg 1 is on the right, peg 2 is on the left. The knitter is going on a Right to Left direction on the loom. Move the loop from peg 2 over to peg 1. Peg 1 has two loops , peg 2 is empty (open). When you reach peg 1, work both loops on the peg as one loop.

YO:Yarn over, also known as Yarn Forward. Ewrap the peg in a counterclockwise direction. On the following row when you reach the peg and  you need to knit the peg, undo the ewrap and place the strand of yarn in front of the peg and treat the strand as the loop on the peg.

Central double decrease:  Takes place over 3 pegs. Peg 1 is on the right, peg 2 is in the middle, peg 3 is on the left. The knitter isMeadowbrook1600 going on a Right to Left direction on the loom. Move the loop from peg 2 over to peg 1. Move loop from peg 3 over to peg 2. Take yarn behind peg 1. Knit peg 2. Move the loop from peg 2 over to peg 1. Lift the bottommost 2 loops up and off the peg. Move the remaining loop back to peg 2. Peg 1 and peg 3 are empty.

INSTRUCTIONS

 

Cast on 93 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Edge rows

Row 1, 3, 5, 7 (right to left row): k to the end of row.

Row 2, 4, 6, 8: p to the end of row.

Main Body

Next 10 rows: Maintain the garter stitch pattern over the first 4 sts and last 4 sts of the row. Center 85 sts, work in the horseshoe stitch pattern from chart below (multiple of 12+13).

Repeat last 10 rows: 45 more times

End of Main Body

Edge rows

Next 8 rows: work in garter stitch (total of 4 garter stitch ridges).

Bind off. Weave ends in. Wet block to measurements.

 

Meadowbrook-chart

Divider

Need a little extra help with the lace stitch pattern? We have broken down below Row 1 of the lace stitch pattern for you.

Recommendations: move the stitches before working the row.

How to:

Knit pegs 1 to 4. (Garter stitch on edge stitches).

The first two pegs of lace portion shown in the chart (pegs 5 and 6 on your loom), on every other row (every odd row), you will do a k2tog. As follows:

Step 1: Lift loop from peg 1 and hold it.

Step 2: Move loop from peg 2 over to peg 1.

Step 3: Place the loop from step 1 back on peg 1.

Step 4: knit peg 1, treating both loops as one loop.

The following portion of the instructions are the part that you will repeat until you reach the last 12 pegs of the shawl stitches (not counting the 4 edge stitches); the original chart shows it inside the blocked out square. 

Mark the next 12 pegs as follows (peg 1 should be on your right side, then count 12 pegs to the left) Number 1 is in red as it is the edge stitch that you already created above, so we are not going to count it

13, 12, 11, 10,9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1.

Instead, we are going to renumber them as follows:

12, 11, 10,9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1, 1.

Notice how we have two number 1s, one is for the edge stitch (the k2tog you created above) and the other is for the lace stitch pattern repeat. Ignore the one in red for the rest of the row instructions.

Lace repeat section

**Step 1: Move loops from peg 2 to 1, from 3 to 2, from 4 to 3, from 5 to 4. Leave peg 5 open (with no loop).

Step 2: Knit peg 1 to 4

Step 3: YO (ewrap) peg 5.

Step 4: knit peg 6.

Step 5: Do a YO on peg 6—the ewrap will be on top of the loop that is on the peg.

Step 6: Knit from peg 7 to peg 10.

Step 7: move loop from peg 12 over to peg 11.

Step 8: move loop from peg 1 (from the next block of lace) over to peg 12.

Step 9: knit peg 12.

Step 10: move loop from peg 12 to peg 11. Lift bottommost two loops up and off the peg.

Step 11: move the loop remaining on peg 11 over to peg 12. (At this point, you should have peg 1 and 11 open (empty).

Step 12: move loops as follows: from peg 10 to 11, from 9 to 10, from 8 to 9, from 7 to 8, and lastly, move the ewrap that is on top of peg 6 over to peg 7.

Repeat from **Step 1, until the last 16 pegs (until you reach peg 77 on the knitting loom).

From peg 79-89, we will work the last chart repeat as follows over 12 pegs (pegs 90-93 are the garter stitch edge stitches):

Step 1: Move loops from peg 2 to 1, from 3 to 2, from 4 to 5, from 5 to 4. Leave peg 5 open (with no loop).

Step 2: Knit peg 1 to 4

Step 3: YO (ewrap) peg 5.

Step 4: knit peg 6.

Step 5: Do a YO on peg 6—the ewrap will be on top of the loop that is on the peg.

Step 6: Knit from peg 7 to peg 10.

Step 7: Move loop from 12 to 11.

Step 8: Knit peg 11.

Step 9: Move loop from 11 to 12; 10 to 11; 9 to 10; 8 to 9; 7 to 8, YO to peg 7.

End of lace portion

Knit the last 4 pegs for the garter stitch ridge.

Row 1 of the lace stitch pattern is complete.

Row 2: purl 4, k to last 4 sts, purl 4. 

 

19 Comments

  • IS there any way to download these pattern instructions?

  • Is there any way to download these instructions?

  • Highlight everything, copy and paste onto a word document.

  • Highlight everything, copy and paste onto a word document.

  • This is so so so stunning, Isela! I absolutely love this stitch pattern!

  • This is a beautiful shawl, Isela! Your work is always fantastic!

  • It is beautiful .I am new at looming but Ithink I will try it and hope it works wish me luck.

  • ** Beautiful work! I have a question regarding peg #3. The instructions are as follows:

    Step 1: Move loops from peg 2 to 1, from 3 to 2, from 4 to 5, from 5 to 4. Leave peg 5 open (with no loop).

    Step 2: Knit peg 1 to 4

    ** per step 1 peg #3 is left empty. Per step #2 I’m supposed to knit peg 3. So do I ewrap peg 3 so it can be knitted? Thanks :-)

  • Thank you!

  • Thank you!

  • Does K2tog and Ssk mean exactly the same thing? They both say knit two stitches together as one stitch.

  • I wish you would make a video tutorial. This is a very advanced pattern and at the risk of sounding like a dingbat, it’s just very complicated. I am a tactile learner and would very much benefit from a video showing how to do the stitches. I am new to looming and don’t even know how to read the chart above. What does each symbol represent? I have no clue.

  • Oh, duh, I now see the key at the bottom of the chart. I still would really do better with a video tutorial. Thanks!! These shawls are gorgeous!!

  • Mary, the k2tog leans to the right, the ssk leans to the left. They are done a little differently, both over two pegs, going from Right to Left, peg 1 on the right peg 2 on the left. k2tog-move the stitch from peg 1 to peg 2, knit peg 2 treating both loops as one loop. ssk-move stitch from peg 2 over to peg 1, knit peg 1 treating both loops on peg as one loop, now move the loop from peg 1 over to peg 2.

  • Is there a way to make this wider than 18″? I like this stitch pattern but would like to see if it can be made between 18 & 24 inches wide.

  • Sherry, I believe I missed a peg there–I think Step 1 should read as follows: Move loops from peg 2 to 1, from 3 to 2, from 4 to 3, from 5 to 4. Leave peg 5 open (with no loop).

  • Could you please give more details on row 7?

  • Jennifer, on Row 7 of the Meadowbrook Shawl? From the chart?

  • Yes,for the Meadowbrook Shawl, like you did for row 1. I’m sure it’s not that complicated for most, but I can’t figure out what the exact steps would be. I’m mainly unclear on the k2tog and ssk with the yo on either side. For the k2tog, the basic instructions say to move the loop from peg 1 to peg 2, but the detailed instructions for row 1 say to move the loop on peg 2 to peg 1. I realize the peg 2 loop goes under the peg 1 loop resulting in basically the same outcome, but because of the difference in the two instructions I’m not sure if, on row 7, the loop on peg 11 gets moved to peg 10 under the existing loop or if peg 10 loop gets moved to peg 11. Same with the ssk on pegs 4 & 5.

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Sep 1, 2014

Stitchology I

Herringbone Stitch & Working with Charts

Herringbone Square angleHi!  My name is Bethany Dailey and I’m new here at Knitting Board Chat. I am so happy to loom along with you!  In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intension for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)

The Ins and Outs of Chart Reading

First up is the Herringbone Stitch.  This is a nice and easy stitch involving repeating rows of knits and purls.  The slightly tricky part of this stitch will be to keep proper count while working the pattern.  To help us along in this process we can use a couple of aids…the first of which is a knitting chart.

Here is the basic stitch chart for this particular pattern:

Herringbone Stitch-chart

When reading a knitting chart, you will be starting at the bottom right and working your way up the chart, from row to row.

Notice how the numbers across the bottom are listed from right to left?  This is because you will be casting onto your looms first from left to right, then your first row will be worked from right to left, matching up each peg number with each of the numbers on the chart bottom.

The numbers which are running up the sides of the chart represent your row count.  As you can see, row number 1 will be worked from right to left, as that is where that row number is designated on the chart.  Row number 2 will be worked from left to right, as that is where you will find the number 2 listed.

By alternating the sides that the row numbers are listed, you are given the clue that this pattern is meant to be worked as a flat panel. If this was a chart that was meant to be worked in the round, you would see each of the row numbers all listed on the same side, because in the process of knitting in the round, you would always be starting each row from that same spot as you worked around the loom.

Knitting Chart Key with grey copy

Now that you know which direction to read the chart, it’s time to decipher what the chart is actually saying.  For this, we need to take a look at the Chart Key.  Here is where the symbols you see in the chart are listed in knitting terms, along with their abbreviations.  For each symbol on the chart, a corresponding stitch will be worked in that exact spot of your row.

The herringbone stitch is a simple one, containing only 2 stitches: knit and purl.  Where you spot a blank square on the chart, you will knit.  Where you spot a dot, you will purl.  It’s as simple as that! :)

Oh, I did mention a couple of aids, right?

The second aid that I love to use while knitting pretty much every project is a good set of stitch markers— or peg Notionsmarkers, as we who love to loom knit tend call them.  These can be pretty much anything that will fit over your pegs, but won’t get in the way of the creation of your stitches.  I love to use them to mark the first and last pegs used in a pattern, as well as any other helpful places that remind me of what I’m supposed to be knitting.   In the case of the herringbone stitch, a good place for them is at the start of every pattern repeat during the row.

Another essential-to-me aid for keeping my place in a pattern I’m working is a good reliable row counter.  This can be a store bought one, a cell phone app, or even something as simple as marking little chicken scratches on a piece of paper at the end of every row.  However you want to do it, a row counter helps avoid lots of frustration in the long run.

Herringbone Stitch Square

Herringbone Stitch

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 105 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Patons Classic Wool Worsted in Jade Heather)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors, measuring tape.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter)

Pattern Notes:

With the beginning of the school year and those chilly Autumn days, this would be a terrific pattern to use as a cozy scarf for both guys and gals!  Simply increase the number of Main Pattern Rows for the length required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

 

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Herringbone Square-chart

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Repeating Pattern Rows

Herringbone Stitch-chart

Row 1:  k3, p2, k1, p2, k2

Row 2:  k1, p2, k3, p2, k2

Row 3:  k1, p2, k5, p2

Row 4:  p1, k2, p1, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 37 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Repeat the following 2 row pattern 3 times, for a total of 6 rows:

Row a: k37

Row b: p37

Main Pattern Rows

Repeat the following 4 row pattern 15 times, for a total of 60 rows:

Row 1:  k3, work Row 1 of repeating pattern to last 4 stitches, k4.

Row 2:  p3, k1, work Row 2 of repeating pattern to last 3 stitches, p3.

Row 3:  k3, work Row 3 of repeating pattern to last 4 stitches, k4.

Row 4:  p3, k1, work Row 4 of repeating pattern to last 3 stitches, p3.

Finishing Rows

Herringbone SquareRow a:  k3, work Row 1 of  repeating pattern to last 4 stitches, k4.

Row b:  p37

Row c:  k37

Row d:  p37

Row e: k37

Row f:  p37

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block lightly to 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

 

19 Comments

  • Bethany, it looks great! I would like to make a scarf with this pattern.
    Thanks a lot!

  • Thanks Bethany for doing this very much appreciated

  • I love this stitch. I have to wait until after I go to the craft fair in October but I can’t wait to see all the stitches and make some of these squares. Thank you!! :)

  • Congratulations on your new column Bethany.
    Look forward to seeing more Stitchology

  • Thank you. I love this pattern.

  • This is wonderful…. can’t wait to see more!!!

  • Bethany, Congratulations to you and I guess to all of us who follow you.
    This is exciting! I love this stitch and look forward to learning more
    techniques and stitches. Hurray!

  • Always glad to see Bethany’s patterns. You’ll make a great addition to the blog! (c;

  • Congratulations, again, Bethany! This is a wonderful article and lesson. Thank you! Although I have done this before you have made it much easier for me to break down the chart and pattern.I really have to work to get back to my looming. I also think I am going to have to start another notebook for your columns!! Well done!! Looking forward to your future articles!!

  • Great article, Bethany! And the Herringbone sampler looks fabulous! I’m looking forward to seeing the next stitch pattern.

  • If I wanted to do a hat on a round loom, would I have to change any of the instructions? I’m new at this.

  • Hi Deena :)

    In order to make a hat using these instructions, you would first of all be working in the round in a clockwise direction. This would change the way you would read the chart to every row starting from the right to the left, rather than alternating directions.

    Also, you would need to use only the 10 peg repeating stitch pattern chart, rather than the square pattern chart, because you wouldn’t need the borders of garter stitch.

    Because the stitch pattern uses 10 pegs, your hat would need to be knit using a total number of pegs divisible by 10…ei: 30, 50, 70, etc.

    Hope this helps! I’d love to see a photo of your hat when you’re all done! :)

  • Thanks for the instructions, Bethany! That helps tremendously!

  • Can I use the cable cast on method or will this make it more difficult to stitch my finished panels together?
    Thank you for the expert explanation of charts and including both charts and written directions. I am looking forward to looming along/ learning along with you thru all the panels. I am starting this weekend, as soon as my daughter returns my loom! Hum.. maybe I’ll get her one for Christmas. Thanks for taking the time.

  • Hi Cindy! :)

    The Cable Cast On is a bit loose and lacy, and also might be a tad different than your bind off, which will always create a bit of a difficulty when attempting to create true squares. If you are using the mattress stitch to seam the squares together, it might not matter, except that you would end up with looser stitches on the back sides of the seams. ;) Having said all that, my favorite cast on, and on the one that most matches the Basic BO is the Chain CO, sometimes referred to as the Crochet CO.

    I am so happy you’ll be looming along with us! :D

  • I haven’t loomed much and never from a chart. Do I slip the first stitch of every row after cast on? If yes, and the chart has that first stitch noted as a knit stitch, does the slip stitch count as a knit? Would the start of row 8 be slip, knit, knit, purl, purl? Sorry but I won’t learn if I don’t ask. Thanks

  • Don’t be sorry! It’s a good question. :)

    Nope…no slip stitches at all. Just do what each square on the chart tells you to do. When you’re making an item to be seamed together with other items, it’s usually better to not slip the first stitch of every row. ;)

  • Thank you for helping me with my slip stitch question Bethany. I am 7 rows from completion of my square. My gauge is a little less but I figured as long as all my squares are the same number of stitches and rows it will work. I’ll just make more squares if necessary.

    My question is, can I use the bind off method that is done on the knitting board as opposed to the crochet hook bind off? If I remember correctly, Isela had a simple on the board bind off. I have done the one they teach on the KB tutorial site but mine always ends up to tight.

    Thanks for your help. I am looking forward to the next square.

  • Hi Cindy! You’re very welcome for the slip stitch tips. :)

    As for the bind off, I like to use the Basic Bind Off, which is I believe, the one that Isela demonstrates. I feel it matches best with the Chain Cast On and it creates a really nice edge, without any pulling on the panel.

    Yay for square making! I’m excited you’re looming along! As for gauge, some of the squares will use a different number of pegs and rows, due to the differences in the stitch style itself, but as long as you follow exactly, your squares should all match, even if they’re not 8″ X 8″. ;) I know the square for October uses fewer pegs and rows, as it’s a looser kind of stitch.

    Talk with you soon!
    Bethany~

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Aug 30, 2014

Autumn Slouch Hat

AutumnBackViewsmall

Pattern Information

Knitting Loom: KB Hat Loom. Use 40 pegs, large gauge setting.

Yarn: Super Bulky, 100% merino wool 90 yards per skein 150 grams per skein.  Sample was knit using Malabrigo Rasta in Sunset, 1 skein.

Notions: Knitting tool, tapestry needle, removable stitch marker.

Skills knowledge
knit stitch, purl stitch, e-wrap, gather removal method.

Abbreviations

  • k=knit stitch
  • p=purl stitch
  • ew=ewrap peg counterclockwise
  • sts=stitches
  • rnd=round
  • YO=ewrap (ewrap peg counterclockwise)
  • K2tog: knit two stitches together. Move the loop from right to the peg on the left, knit the peg with the two loops on it, treating both loops as one loop.

INSTRUCTIONSSideViewSmall2

Cast on 40 sts, join to work in the rnd.

Round 1-7: *k2, p2; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 8-9: k to the end rnd.

Rnd 10 is broken into two parts: Rnd 10-A and Rnd 10-B

Rnd 10-A: *YO3; rep from * to end end of rnd. (How to: *Take yarn to peg 1, ewrap peg 1 three times; peg 1 has 4 loops. Repeat the same process with the remaining 39 pegs.).

Rnd 10-B:  k to the end of rnd.

(How to: lift the bottommost loop up and off the pegs; each peg should      remain with the 3 ewraps on it.)

TIP: Combine Rnd 10-A and 10-B as one Rnd as follows: Ewrap peg 3 times (for the YO3), then lift the bottommost loop, then move to the next peg and do the same. Each peg should have 3 loops on it.

YO close up YOs on loom

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rnd 11: k to the end of rnd.

(How to: First, unravel the ewraps from the peg (it will look like an elongated stitch). Take yarn to the front of the peg and knit the peg as normal. Be    careful that the stitch stays on the peg and does not “pop” off the peg.)

Rnd 13: As Rnd 10.

Rnd 14: p to the end of rnd.

Rnd 15: k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 16: p to the end of rnd.

Rep Rnds 13-16: 6 more times.

Rep Rnds 10 and 11.

Next rnd: *k2tog; rep from * to the end of rnd. (20 sts rem).

How to: move loop from odd number peg to the even number peg. Each    even peg (2, 4, 6, etc) should have 2 loops on it. Knit the round, treating both loops on each peg as one loop.

Autumn Slouch on Loom k2tog

Bind off with gather removal method. Weave ends in.

Set the stitches by gently tugging on the hat vertically. All the stitches should be elongated and open.

If you love the look of this pattern, be sure to check out Luisa Mangus’ Spring Breeze Slouchy Hat.  Need extra help? Luisa also has a YouTube video demonstrating all the steps. 

15 Comments

  • Can this be done on the aio loom?

  • Yes, you can do it all the AIO. You need to use worsted weight yarn and about 64 or 68 pegs. Follow the pattern exactly. You will need about 120 yds of yarn.

  • I really love the looks of this hat! And the color of the yarn (along with the name of it as well), goes right along with the slouch-type Rasta hats :)

  • Hi Isela, I’ve been a fan for more than 8 years. Can I do this on the regular knifty knitter looms?

  • Yes. I don’t know which loom you will use but if the peg number is not divisible by 4, your ribbing will be different. If you don’t have a multiple of 4 in pegs, do a 1×1 rib (k1,p1) for the brim. The rest should be exactly the same as written.

  • Do you have a video tutorial for this?

  • Do you do row 15 the same as row 12 just purl instead?

  • Rose, yep. Rnd 15: p to the end of rnd.

  • There is an error in this pattern. There are no rows between rows 12 and 13 to create the garter stitches that separate the sets of drop stitches. Instead, the pattern immediately goes into another set of drop stitches with no garter stitches to separate them.

  • Karen,
    The hat has 2 rounds of elongated stitches at the beginning, no garter stitch separates them. The reason why there is no garter stitch between those two rounds of elongated stitches is to not have a ridge right by the forehead area. I started the dropped stitches after that area. So this is what the hat should be: ribbed hem, 1 round of knit stitches to set up for the hat body. 2 rounds of elongated stitches. After these two rounds of elongated stitches, then we start with 2 garter stitch ridges, then 1 round of elongated stitches, we repeat starting at the 2 garter stitch ridges. Does this make sense?

  • I feel so dumb. I looked at the picture more closely and realized mine had looked like it was supposed to before I ripped it out. I missed that because the yarn is so thick and I thought I was seeing one round of elongated stitches when it was actually two. Thanks so much for your fast response. I hope I can save it.

  • If not, I think it will still look fabulous :). It will be an original!

  • Can you explain round 13 please? “As round ten” does that mean round 13 is 10a & 10b again? Thanks!

  • Yes, Round 10-A and 10-B.

  • Thanks Isela, this is a great pattern (as are all of your patterns)!

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Aug 23, 2014

Brimmed Beanie


BrimmedBeanie copy

Knitting Loom: 40 peg, large gauge loom. Adjustable Hat Loom in Medium size (40 pegs) recommended.

Yarn: Super Bulky, 100% merino wool 90 yards per skein 150 grams per skein.  Sample was knit using Malabrigo Rasta in Electrica, 1 skein.

Other: Knitting tool, tapestry needle, removable stitch marker.

Abbreviations:

k=knit stitch

p=purl stitch

rep=rep

Rnd=round

CO=cast on. If the cast on is at the beginning of a row, simply ewrap the peg that needs to be casted on.

Pattern notes
The item is worked flat for the brim and then it continues in the round for the body of the hat.

INSTRUCTIONS

Brim

Work a flat panel as follows: cast on 12 stitches (from left to right).

Row 1: p to the end of row.

Row 2: k to the end of row.

Row 3: co1, p to the end of row.

Row 4: co1, k to the end of row.

Rep Rows 1-4: 1 more time (16 sts total on the loom).

Body

At this point, continue knitting in the round as follows:

Next: [k2, p2] 4x. With e-wrap method, cast on all around the loom to begin working in the round. Place a removable stitch marker on any of the stitches on this round to mark the round.

Next 4 rounds: *k2, p2; rep from * to the end of the rnd.

Next round: knit to the end of round

Rep last round until item measures 6.5 inches from marker.

Bind off with gather removal method. Weave ends in.

Block lightly.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2 Comments

  • I purchased the new hat loom and I am totally baffled by the sizes they indicate on the chart. None of the sizes match the outcome of the piece. I have tried several different types of yarn, including the one they suggested but the hats are so much bigger than the chart indicated. Im very disappointed, is anyone else having this issue?

  • What type of stitch are you using? We used the Knit stitch not the ewrap in our calculations.

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Aug 16, 2014

Slouchy Hat on the Loom Knitting with the All-n-One Loom booklet

LoomKnittingwithallione

We received a request for a little bit of extra assistance in creating the slouchy hat pictured in the front cover of the All-n-One loom.

The instructions for the increase round read: Rnd 9: *k3, m1l; rep from * to the end of rnd (80 sts).

I will offer you two methods to achieve this:

Method 1:

Remove all 60 stitches from the knitting loom and place them on a piece of scrap yarn or on a circular needle.

Set your knitting loom to 80 pegs.

Place the stitches back on the knitting loom as follows: place 3 stitches back on 3 pegs, skip one peg, place 3 stitches back on 3 pegs, skip one peg, keep repeating this instructions until you have place all stitches back on the knitting loom.

*Knit 3 pegs, now create the M1L and place it on the empty peg; repeat from the *.

Method 2: 

*Knit 3 pegs, M1L and place it on peg 3 (over the loop already there, peg 3 will have 2 loops on it). Continue around the knitting loom repeating this sequence.

On the following round: knit 2 pegs, lift the loop that is at the top of peg 3 and hold it or place it on peg 4, knit the loop on peg 3, place the loop that you were holding back on top of peg 3 (or move it from peg 4 back to peg 3), knit this loop (be sure to only knit the top loop and leave the one at the bottom untouched). Continue around the loom  repeating this sequence.

Now, remove all the stitches from the knitting loom and place them on a piece of scrap yarn or a circular needle.

Set your knitting loom to 80 pegs.

Place your stitches back on the knitting loom.

I hope the above helps to facilitate the increases. It is the most laborious round of the hat, take it slow and one step at a time.

Good luck!

5 Comments

  • what happened to the video of the triangle Isela phelps taught for a blanket.

  • Islela, Thank you! The info on the slouchy hat was great! Easy ,peasy! Kari

  • I have learned so much from you about loom knitting, I am blind and you are a great teacher.I have looked all over for the triangle video or square made from the inside out and can’t find it. Can you help me thank you Judy

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Aug 16, 2014

Woven Table Decor

  Blending Weaving and Knitting!

Blending easy weaving with some knitted edges can create great home décor.  You can weave separate place mats for the table or connect several pieces to create a table runner as long as needed.  Here, we have created two sections and connected with one-color panel of knit.

table22

Loom: 28” knitting board + peg extenders, set up as a rectangular loom using both 20-peg extenders

Yarn:  Elite Verde, Sprout, 100% Organic Cotton, machine wash, lay flat to dry.  Each hank is aprox 100 grams or 109 yards.  Colors used are #4378 Brown (1 hank), #4325 Pink,  (1 hank), and #4316 Cream (1 hank).

 

Notions needed:  Knit hook, Crochet hook #4-5, 12” long wooden crochet hook, and darning needle

 

Size finished: 9 X 56 inches (each section is aprox. 28” long). Work as many as needed.

 

 

 

 

 

Instructions:

Choose the color that you want as the base.  Here we have used the brown yarn (yarn #1).  Start with a loop knot and place it on the first peg on the long side of the loom.  You are working across from one long board to the other.  Weave across all pegs.  End with another loop knot.  Keep the yarn taut, but with enough stretch so the size is maintained once off the loom. Do not use the 4 corner pegs of the loom. Your base yarn is set up.

Now, place a loop knot on the first peg of the extender using yarn 2, pink.  Use the long crochet hook in 3 sections to move the yarn across the base yarn and down to the opposite extender on first peg.  This is one continuous flow of the yarn of each color.  Work 4 pegs of pink yarn.

Once the pink yarn is complete, cut yarn and tie on the brown yarn to the pink yarn tail at peg.  Work 2 rows of brown yarn.  Cut brown, tie on the yarn #3 Cream at next peg.  Work 8 pegs back and forth in the cream yarn.  Do not be concerned with all the yarn tails.

table.1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Change back to the brown yarn for another 2 rows.  Cut and tie to the pink yarn.

Work last 4 pegs with pink to match the opposite side.  Knot the pink upon completion

by tying to the last peg or use a loop knot for easy removal. 

Edges (linear) along the long boards:  Choose the yarn color for the edges.  We decided to keep using the brown yarn. Use the short crochet hook and keep the weaving on the loom as you work.  Do not remove at this time.

Start at one end of the long boards.  Pick up the loop, from top to bottom, on the first peg and grab the working yarn.

 

table.edge1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Make one more chain stitch on the hook.  Move the crochet hook to front of board and twist the hook so that the loop on it is twisted.  Pick up next loop and repeat.

Continue down the board until all pegs are secured with the crochet edge.  The edge will be on the outside of the loom.  Knot the yarn on last peg to secure or use loop knot.

Repeat the same edge on the other side of the loom so that both sides are completed.  Your woven piece should still be on all pegs.  The only open pegs are the ones at 4 corners of the loom.

 

Completing the ends with knitting: Once the long sides are complete and secure, you can work the short ends.  You may do this with knit and purl stitches on the loom, or move the loops to a #10.5 long knitting needle.  You will want to carefully remove the side edges off the pegs being careful not to remove the end loops until they are completed.  However you choose to knit off the ends, work with knit and purl rows.  Tie on the yarn at one end peg of a short side.  Add a stitch to the end pegs at beginning and at end of loom. You will be working on 22 pegs.  Work 2 rows in knit stitch, 1 purl row.  Repeat 3 times ending with a knit row. This is aprox 10 rows of knitting.  Bind off.  If you want it done in all knit stitches or all purl stitches, this can be a matter of choice. Once complete, draw in all yarn tails into the same color section and trim.

On the 2nd panel, you can just knit the one side edge.  The other end will be joined to the first panel and can be a bind off with the crochet hook.  If you choose to knit this edge also, you will create a wider middle section by sewing the 2 knit ends together.  If you have chosen to make place mats, be sure to knit off both ends.  As mentioned, you may have a longer table that you want your runner to fit.  You may work up as many woven panels as desired.  If you plan to do a 3rd panel, be sure to purchase a 2nd hank of the yarn that you are using for your base and edges.  3 panels will make a runner aprox 84” long.

You may want to block lightly, the knit sections, for nice even edges with the weaving.

Weaving is just another way to create home décor, tote bags, and scarves.  You can also experiment with many different types of media other than yarn.  Try cord, jute, and fabric yarn.

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