May 6, 2012

LAL-Getting started

Alright, I think we got the numbers of pegs ironed out and we are ready to get this started! Yay!

Let me just quickly write down some numbers here for you, in case you didn’t see my comments in the comments section.

So let’s get ready to cast on our knitting loom, shall we! For the first part of the LAL, let’s do the first 10 rows.

Cast on INSERT NUMBER OF PEGS NECESSARY FOR YOUR FOOT, join to work in the round.

Rnds 1-4:k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 5: *yo, k2tog; rep from *  to the end of rnd.

Rnds 6-9: k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 10: Pick up cast on edge and place the loops back on the peg as if creating a brim. K to the end of rnd.

How to do round 5?

Move the loop from every odd number peg to the neighbor peg, loop from peg 1 to peg 2, loop from peg 3 to peg 4, loop from peg 5 to peg 6…to the end.

Then, you will e-wrap peg 1, knit peg 2, treating both loops on peg 2 as one loop. Continue in this form til the end of the round.

How to do round 10?

Find the cast on round (it is the first round you put on the loom), locate the first loop (it is right by the yarn tail), place that loop back up onto peg 1. Grab the next loop to it, place it onto peg 2, continue around until you have picked every loop from the cast on edge and it is sitting back on the loom. Each peg should have 2 loops on it. Knit the round.

Let’s get to this point and on Monday, we shall begin the leg portion of the sock.

Questions, concerns, just hit me in the comments below and I’ll answer in the comments for you.

Have a great weekend!


  • I didn’t see the comments. I’ll c o 36 sts from your chart, but I got 50 sts from measuring my foot. I don’t want to get behind. Jackie

  • I’ve done my 10 rows on 36 sts. It looks small to me. I got 11sts 15 rows =2 “. My foot is 8.5″ first I got 50 pegs and now go 46. I don’t want to go any further until I’m sure of how many cast ons I need. Jackie

  • Jackie – 8.5 x (11/2) x 0.9 = 42.075
    You need to round this to the nearest multiple of 4 (40 or 44) for this pattern. I would round it down to 40 sts. I have the same stitch gauge as you, but a 9 1/4 foot measurement. I rounded down to 44 sts for my foot size. Hope this helps!

  • Thanks Sharon. I’m going to start over. I don’t want to have socks I can’t wear. I appreciate your help. Jackie

  • When you wrap every peg on rnd. 6, it will have 3on every other one and 1 on the others. How can you knit every st? I’m confused Sorry

  • Went back and re-read the pattern. All straightened out. Have my 10 rows done. My only excuse is my age. I’m 80 and get confused sometimes

  • Do you have a recommendation for the best cast on for a sock?

  • You need a flexible cast on for socks, I would recommend the cable cast on or the ewrap cast on.

  • Isela–
    Would it be possible for you to make a video of your knit stitch (skyf2) used in this pattern? I’m still not getting it right….drats!

    Thanks!! It’s so nice of you to share this lovely pattern with us!

  • Just found your video and watched it. Thanks. Will continue with my sock now.

  • Isela,

    I have a question about the loom you use in your book: LOOM KNITTING SOCKS. I bought a set of round looms at my local Walmart that are made by Boye. Are they the same gauge as the KK that you use in your book? I know they are a larger gauge then the AKB sock loom, that i’m currently using to knit socks with. I was just wondering if they could be used to make the socks in your book.

    Thank you,

  • I am finding that my knit stitch is coming out very uneven. I was wondering about trying a flat stitch instead. Are there any benefits of one over the other?

  • I finished the first sock and it fits pretty well. Now to make the other one.

  • The flat stitch will work, just make sure that you don’t knit too tightly. ;)

  • Maxine,
    I don’t think they are the same gauge. The looms I used in that book are finer in gauge, those are considered extra fine gauge, the KB sock loom is a fine gauge loom. You can use the KB loom but you will need to adapt to the gauge given on the KB sock loom.

  • Thank you Isela. Guess i didn’t read the part about which looms you used in making the socks. Looking at the photos, i thought you used the round ones, but further reading, i saw which ones you used.

  • have just got sock knitting loom from authentic knitting and finding it sooo different from kk looms.cant seem to get a loose enough stitch to hook over,any help will be great.thanks

  • Chris,
    Practice, practice, practice. The more you use the loom, the easier it will get and the stitches will become less tight as you get more comfortable with the loom.

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May 3, 2012

Socks Loom-a-Long: Swatch

Hi everyone,

I hope I have given you enough time to knit up that swatch and get things rolling a little more. At this point, you should have completed the swatch and measured it. So far we have the following numbers:

11 sts x 16 rows = 2 inches

9.5 sts x 21 rows = 2 inches

Anyone else?

Next step: please measure around the ball of the foot of the person who you are going to be knitting the sock. Check out this link on how to measure your feet, you want to do #4 on the list.

Once we have the gauge and the measurement around the ball of the foot, we can more accurately calculate how many stitches to cast on.

For example: my foot measures 8.5 inches around and I got a gauge of 9.5 sts=2 inches. You can do the math two ways: Divide 8.5 inches (measurement around the ball of the foot) by 2=4.25 x 9.5 (multiply that by the stitches per in, 9.5)=40.375


Divide the stitches in the 2 inches by 1. 9.5/2=4.75  then multiply that number by the measurement around the ball of the foot. 4.75 x 8.5=40.375

Socks are knitted at a negative ease so they fit snugly around the foot, the negative ease that we typically use for socks is around 10%. From the number we arrived at, 40.375 for my foot, we are going to decrease 10%. I round up or down so I am left with a multiple of 4 of the necessary multiple for the sock pattern.  In this case, I am rounding down to 36 pegs.

Okay my dears, now it is your turn. You have your gauge, now measure your foot and see if you can calculate the number of pegs needed for your socks. If you can’t, no worries, post in the comments the following: Gauge, measurement of the ball of the foot at widest point and then say HELP ;).

I will come by tomorrow, Thursday to get us going in the right direction with the number of pegs to use for our sock.


  • i finished my swatch and came up with 10 st. and 16 rows= 2 stitches.

    I am using the adult sock loom. Does this make the pattern work differently? This is my first loom knitting of any sort, so i will probably be asking a ton of questions as i go along. LOL.

    I am glad to be a part of this group and know i can lots of good advice.


  • I am getting these numbers:

    9.5 sts/15r=2″
    using self striping wool blend yarn

    foot=8″ in circumference

    Looks to me like I will need 38 needles.

  • Kathryn Doubrley

    9.5 sts/15r=2″
    using self striping wool blend yarn

    foot=8″ in circumference so I will need 38 needles


  • My foot measures 9″ around, so after doing the math I came out with 38.5 so I will be rounding up to 40 pegs. Is this right?

  • Still working on my swatch. How do I get back to your post about how to measure it?

  • Mary,
    The post will be up on the blog, simply click on the link above that says “Blog Home” and it should take you to it, or here is the direct link:

  • Kathryn,
    The exact would be 38 pegs, but we need to take care of the 10% negative ease, so we will end up with 34 pegs. The stitch pattern we are using is a multiple of 4, therefore we can either use 32 or 36 pegs.

  • Maureen
    Does the sock loom have capabilities of adjusting the number of pegs? Or is it a round sock loom? I am sorry, I am not familiar with the adult sock loom. Please let me know.

  • Jean,
    We need to account for the 10% negative ease so the sock fits nice and snug. So you got 38.5 from that we are going to take away 10% which will leave us with 34 pegs. The stitch pattern for the Double Woven socks is a multiple of 4, so we have to either round up to 32 pegs or 36 pegs. Remember, that knitting does stretch, I would suggest going with 32 pegs ;), it will knit up faster.

  • HELP! I haven’t done the swatch as I just found this page but help me to understand how many pegs I would use if my swatch is 9.5 inches gauge as yours is.

    My foot measures 9.5 around the widest point. Using your calculations for 9.5 and deducting the 10% for the negative ease I came up with 40.615 so I would use 40 pegs – is that correct?

    But somewhere I saw that a woman’s foot usually needs 50-52 pegs.

    I’m using the Kb sock loom and Deborah Norville Serenity Sock Weight yarn – super fine 1.


  • Brenda,
    The KB Sock loom is a different gauge than the AllnOne knitting loom. I used the AllnOne knitting loom for my sock and therefore I got 9.5sts=2 inches. However, the sock loom is a finer gauge loom and you also use a thinner yarn for it so most likely, your gauge will be different than my 9.5 sts=2 inches. In order to find out the number of pegs to use, a swatch must be worked up. Work up a swatch with your loom and yarn that you are going to use and let me know your gauge and then I can help you calculate the number of pegs you need for your sock.

  • My swatch came out 21 rows and 14 stitches on the KB sock loom. My foot is 8.5.

  • I am using the adjustable sock loom and I am having difficulties with my crossbar sliding when it is set to do the pegs for the swatch. Do you have any tips or solutions for that?

    Also, I have a ball of sock yarn that I had received as a gift with the loom. No clue what type or length it is. Is one ball typically enough or should I start with a project with less yarn?

  • The 38.5 is after taking away the 10% so should I go down to 36 stitches or up to 40 stitches.

  • As I read the pattern onward I did realize that I must have a multiple of 4 so I’ll adjust accordingly–Thanks–Kathryn

  • An idea for Lena: it seems to me likely that your bolts are not tightly enough screwed together and that is letting the adjuster slip. I find that using a washer under the wing nut makes it easier to get a tight adjustment without damaging the board. You could even use a rubber washer rather than steel which might make it easier for you to get it tight enough.

  • So would I use 52 or 56 stitches? Thanks for helping me.

  • Mary, I would use 52. It is best to have a snug sock than a sock that falls down ;)

  • Thank you Kathryn! Very good point and great advice with the nylon washers.

  • Kathryn,
    I would just suggest when being in the middle of two numbers to use the lowest number, it is best to have a snug sock than one that falls down ;).

  • Jean, I would go to 36. It is best to have a sock that stays snuggly on the leg than one that keeps falling down. Also, you will knit it quicker ;)

  • Lena,
    Kathryn, mentioned looking at the slider and making sure it is sitting right against the long rail so it doesn’t move. Another tip that I have used is get a rubber band or a hairband and place it on the slider and on the two pegs on the long rails, so it is sitting on the one of the pegs of the long rail, on all the pegs of the slider and then on one peg of the opposite side long rail. Push the rubber band to the bottom of the pegs so that it doesn’t get caught with your knitting. The rubber band will aid is preventing the slider from moving.

  • I’m using the KB sock loom and a # 2 Serenity sock yarn

    My swatch came out 15 rows and 11 sts = 2 inches

    My foot is 8 inches

    I came out either 50 or 51 pegs

    Let me know if I’m right or wrong. Thanks. Jackie

  • Made a mistake. My foot is 8.5 inches. Jackie

  • Please add .5 to my foot measurement. Thanks. Jackie

  • This comment board kept saying I already made that comment. To be sure, my foot is 8.5 inches. Jackie

  • Thanks. So do we start knitting the pattern now? I’m good with the first four rows, then I need to know how to do a yarn over knit two together on a loom. Also, how can I print out the pattern in bigger print. Mine is really tiny print.

  • Good idea with the rubber band. I find that the slider slips on my Sock loom when ever I am working an infant size sock and that is with it tightened as far as I can go. Next time I’m working on a smaller sock I will definitely use the rubber band to see if it helps.

  • Hi my name is tena and this is my first ever atempt at kitting a sock ever on this kb. Sock loom. When i started the heel part it was too tight to work and the yarn broke…so now i took it all off and i must start over…what am i doing wrong? Any sugestions??? Your help would ne much appreciated. Thanks…TENA.

  • I figured out the k2, yo and did row 5 of the pattern. It was hard to get the yarn onto the adjacent peg most of the time. I’m doing the knit stitch and not the flat stitch. Trying to keep a nice even tension and not get too tight.

  • Just finished row 14 and ready to start the repeats til it gets to six inches. It’s going very well.

  • I will have to round up a rubber band or try the washer. It is as tight as I can turn it right now. I don’t seem to have as much slip if it is slid a bit in either direction. Not sure why the sweet spot for slipping is where I am doing the swatch.

  • Wow, Mary, you are a sock knitting rockstar! Great job! :)

  • A rubber band will definitely help. I am sorry it keeps sliding though :/.

  • Mary,
    I find it easier to move the loop then knit the peg, then move the next loop and knit the peg. It seems to get me more of a little bit of slack on the yarn.

  • Isela, I’m looking at your sock and now I’m not sure if I’m doing the skip two pegs in front correctly. Here is what I’ve been doing: Hold the yarn across two pegs then knit the next two stitches all the way around the board. Then I knit each stitch around and I knit the ones with the yarn in front of them by picking up all the yarn on the peg and knitting it. Am I supposed to ignore the strand of yarn laying across the peg? My sock looks more like ribbing. I have about a half inch done like this.

  • Learning the Rib Stitch is ROUGH! I wanna scream! I got it, slightly-lol
    then I took it out & tried again, so I would know how to start it from the beginning 5X’s.
    See, this is why I am waiting a little longer before I get the 38″ afghan board. I want
    to master a few stitches first. Oh well, I’ve learned -The Stockinette, The Double
    Stockinett, and I can cast off- Yeah! A ways to go, but I will get there! One day, I will
    be posting a finished piece! Whew!
    Thanks for reading all my woes! LOL

    Professional 2 B !

  • Isela,
    The adult sock loom is one made by the Authentic Knitting Board. It has 52 pins and is non-adjustable.

  • Thanks Sue. In this case, the user will need to use all the pegs, there is no choice in adjustment.

  • Mary, the yarn should stay in front of the stitches. So, this is the way I do it, leave the yarn laying across the pegs, so knit 2 pegs, leave the yarn laying in front of the next two pegs. Repeat. On the next round, the pegs that have the yarn in front of them, simply put the yarn behind the pegs, there should still be a loop on the pegs, then knit the row as normal.

  • I am having trouble with the knit rows. The skyfarn goes to the inside of the sock. Is this how it is supposed to be?

  • Thanks, Isela. I’ll give it a try tomorrow.

  • I see that I have made a bad yarn choice for this pattern. sigh! While Isela’s yarn was making a statement, mine was mumbling incoherently. I was trying to use yarn from my stash and this time it was a bad idea. So I undid what I had started will just use this yarn for ordinary socks. I am about to go out of state to teach a seminar so I will have to catch up to you all when I return.

    Best wishes to the rest of you!

  • My loops are still on the inside of the yarn. So here is what I did: Laid yarn across front of two pegs then knit the next two pegs all the way around. At this point the there are stitches on each peg as well as the loops laying across the fronts of the sets of two pegs as previously stated.
    Now for the next round I knitted the two knit St., then at the pegs with the loops I lifted the loop to the back and then knit the two St that were on the pegs that had the loop, then knit the next two St. But the loops still show on the inside instead of the outside of the sock, so it’s still not right. Please set me straight. Thanks

  • On my repeats for 6″. Never have done heels before or short rows

  • How do you get the skyf on the right side. Mine are on the wrong side?????

  • Jackie, I just did a little mini-video and will be posting it as soon as my computer finishes processing it. Basically, you want to pop the strand towards the back of the peg, but in front of the knitted fabric. Remove the loop that is on the peg, then pop the long strand that is in front of the pegs towards the back of the peg but in front of the right side of the fabric.

  • Mary,
    The yarn should end up towards the back of the peg but in front of the right side of the fabric. This is the way I do it, remove the loop from the peg, then pop the strand towards the back of the peg but make sure it ends up towards the front of the fabric. So hold the loop towards the inside of the knitting loom, then just make sure your strand is towards the front of the knitted fabric.

  • Thanks Isela. I think I know what you mean, bit I’ll watch the video to make sure

  • Hi..I’m getting a late start…just received my All-n-One loom yesterday. Finished my swatch and need some help….please! I got 11st/16rows, foot measures 9.5″. So, divide 11/2=5.5×9.5=52.25-10%=47.025 Should I round up to 48 or down to 44?

    Thanks so much in advance for your help,

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May 2, 2012

Q & A: Twisting Yarns

Q & A:

Deanna asks: I’m using doubled yarn to make an afghan for a child. ( I’m a beginner ) . The yarn gets so twisted – HELP! How do you prevent this ?


We all at one point or another have had to use two yarns as one and unfortunately we have all probably been found like a cat tangled amidst yards of yarn. I have done it so many times that I distinctly remember one day being so tangled up that I just cut the yarns and threw the big knot in the garbage, hahaha, I guess I lost my patience there for a bit.

Two methods I have found to be successful:

1. Wind each skein into a center pull ball then, keep one yarn to my left and one yarn to my right. I get two boxes, or two bags and I set each one by my right foot or left foot. I pull both them at the same time and have a small “pool” of yarn on my lap ready to be worked. Once I finished the “pool” of yarn, I go ahead and pull a little more onto my lap.

2. Wind the two separate skeins into one single skein. Both of them will be together and ready to be knitted.

I hope this helps a bit. Do any of our readers have any other suggestions?
Here kitty kitty 



  • Thank you so much for lesson #1 lol. I have also thrown away that blob of yarn. I will keep working at it. I received the DVD set – it’s awesome! I’ve finally learned to cast off! Is it ok to be an addicted beginner ? LOL

  • I made my swatch with the knit st. Would the flat st. Make the peg count different. I thought I’d do the flat st.for my sock?

  • Jackie,
    In most cases, yes, the flat stitch is a little bit tighter stitch, so it will make a difference in your swatch, not much but definitely a difference.

  • I have every size knitting board and love using them! But I have a traditional knit pattern for a poncho that has rows and rows of vertical cables all around the front and back of the poncho. Is there any way to adapt the poncho pattern for the knitting board instead of using regular needles?

  • Happy New Year,
    I would like to know the cast on peg numbers on the all in one loom for all head sizes please.
    I am hoping my next projects to be head wrap/ ear warmer type item for young children ages two to six.
    Thank you for your time.

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May 1, 2012

Socks Loom-A-Long

Hi everyone,

Let’s get this rolling with stage one. First, please comment under this blogpost and let me know which knitting loom you will be using along with the thickness of yarn that you will be using for your project. I especially need to know if you are using another loom other than the AllnOne.

Remember: we will be doing the Double Woven Socks.

Get your pattern, printed out and add a few pages of clean paper, just to write down some notes.

What you will need:

Loom: All-n-One Knitting Loom or the Sock Loom

Yarn: If using the All-n-One Knitting Loom, you will need 150-180 yards of worsted weight yarn. If using the Sock Loom, I recommend obtaining about 350 yards of fingering weight sock yarn.

Tools: tapestry needle, 2 double pointed knitting needles in a either a size 8 (if using worsted weight yarn) or a size 2 (if using fingering weight yarn).

DAY 1 of Loom-a-Long: SWATCH

Cast on 24 pegs if using the AllnOne, 34 pegs if using the sock loom, on your knitting loom, join to work in the round.

Work a tube that is about 4 inches long: use the Knit stitch–you may use the Flat Stitch.

Bind it off. Block it lightly.

Now, let’s measure for gauge/tension.

Gauge/tension  refers to the number of stitches and rows per inch in your sample swatch.

Measuring your Swatch:

Set it flat on a smooth, hard surface. Lay a ruler horizontal across the  the center of the swatch and count the number of stitches in 2 inches.  Now measure rows by laying the ruler vertically across the swatch. Count the number of rows in 2 inches.  There, now you have your gauge/tension with your knitting loom and your yarn.

Leave me that number in the comments below so I can reference to it, especially if you are using another knitting loom other than the AllnOne.




  • I will be using the all in one loom with number 4 yarn

  • Hi, I’m Deana from NC : I love your site!

    I’m using doubled yarn to make an afghan for a child. ( I’m a beginner ) . The yarn gets so twisted – HELP! How do you prevent this ?

    Thank you for your assistance. I’m gonna be here a lot! Lol. I have a lot to learn from all of you who are experts!

  • I am using the KB Sock Loom with fingering yarn

  • I am using the all in one with #3 yarn..

  • I’m using the all in one with worsted weight Wool-Ease.

  • I will be using the KB sock loom. I would like to try using worsted yarn instead. Is this o.k.?

  • Really disappointed. I was told to go to the video. I still don’t know what to do. I have the sock loom and sock yarn Is it a total of 34 sts in the round? Like on needles it’s so many sts on each thanks Jackieneedle. May sound dumb, but I need to know. I could never get an answer to my questions. I checked this sites many times yesterday and this info wasn’t there. Now I know I can come here for instructions. I have done some loom knitting, but not on the sock loom. Jackie

  • Hi Jackie,

    For the Sock Loom-a-long, Isela is starting out with a swatch to test your individual gauge. So that is why you are starting with 34 stitches in the round. After you test gauge you will be beginning sock which will use many more stitches, more like 48-52 stitches, or pegs, to create width of your sock. I hope this helps. Just follow along. She will go over each step.

  • Thanks Pat. I’m sure I’ll be okay now

  • I’m using to ck loom and Deborah Norville sock yarn GEMS variegUated. I have an inch done so far. Using the hook from knifty knitter as it picks up the yarn easier. It’s very relaxing to do.

  • I meant kb sock loom. Posting from my phone. Lol

  • I’m using the k b sock loom and Patons super fine ( 1 ) sock yarn

  • Is there an easy way to knit the stitches on the inside end of the loom? It yakes me longer to do those than a side row and I have very small hands.

  • I have 9.5 stitches and 21 rows to equal 2″

  • I’m using the All-n-One and gave a gauge swatch of 11 sts and 16 rows for 2 inches. Oops! Posted on the wrong one first time :-)

  • Mary I was having the same problem I put the short side by my body and hook over the peg. Don’t know if I explained it very good. I’m using a fine sock yarn and think the weave is to open.

  • I started over with a # 2 sock yarn. In my area they never heard of fingering yarn. Lol The # 1yarn was to open to suit me.

  • Mary,
    I have found that if I tilt the knitting loom long ways so it is towards my belly that it is easier for me to knit the inside pegs. It is going to take a little getting used to but after awhile, you will be a pro.

  • Hi, I’ll be using KB Sock loom with Patton #1 yarn. should I double the yarn? Ball measurements are: Right foot = 10″, Left foot = 9.5″ (swollen feet most of the time).

  • I have the 18″ knitting board. Can I use that for this pattern?

  • Unfortunately, you need a loom with capabilities to be able to knit in the round. The knitting board doesn’t have pegs all around, it goes from one rail to the other. I am sorry.

  • hello, i would like to knit this, but i am unsure about the wool. may i use sockwool on the knitting loom (their recommended needle size is 2,5 to 3 mm). i wonder about this because i want superwash wool for our socks.
    thank you!

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Apr 30, 2012

Tulip Lace Facecloth

A small little square is the perfect way to try out new stitches. The Tulip Lace Facecloth uses the Tulip Lace stitch throughout.

Loom: AllnOne Knitting Loom

Yarn: Approx 60 yards of worsted weight cotton yarn.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle

Size: Approx 7 x 7 inches


Cast on 37 sts, prepare to work a flat panel
R1 (must go from right to left—clockwise around the loom): p37
R2: k37
R3: p37
R4: k37
R5: p3, k3, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k2, p3
R6: k37
R7: p3, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k1, p3
R8: k37
R9: p3, k3, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k2, p3
R10: k37
R11: p3, k31, p3
R12: k37
R13: p3, k7, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, sl1 k psso, yo, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, p3
R14: k37
R15: p3, k5, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k5, p3
R16: k37
R17: p3, k7, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, sl1 k psso, yo, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, p3
R18: k37
R19: p3, k31, p3
R20: k37
R21: p3, k3, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k2, p3
R22: k37
R23: p3, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k1, p3
R24: k37
R25: p3, k3, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k2, p3
R26: k37
R27: p3, k31, p3
R28: k37
R29: p3, k7, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, sl1 k psso, yo, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, p3
R30: k37
R31: p3, k5, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k5, p3
R32: k37
R33: p3, k7, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, sl1 k psso, yo, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, p3
R34: k37
R35: p3, k31, p3
R36: k37
R37: p3, k3, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k2, p3
R38: k37
R39: p3, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k1, p3
R40: k37
R41: p3, k3, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k2, p3
R42: k37
R43: p3, k31, p3
R44: k37
R45: p3, k7, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, sl1 k psso, yo, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, p3
R46: k37
R47: p3, k5, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k5, p3
R48: k37
R49: p3, k7, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, sl1 k psso, yo, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, p3
R50: k37
R51: p37
R52: k37
R53: p37
Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave ends in.


  • I love this stitch! I am always looking for new ones to try out on dishcloths (Mother’s Day is coming – this may fit the bill)

  • At this point I have shared this post as well and am up to 20 points total….off to find more posts I missed :)

  • Stunning washcloth. I think it would make an awesome granny square on a larger project! I even mentioned that on Google+, Pinterest, facebook and twitter. =)

  • I’m using the All-n-One and gave a gauge swatch of 11 sts and 16 rows for 2 inches.

  • i am very new new to this craft but for years after having a paralyzed left arm was determined to teach my self to knit and thank god i stumbled upon a kitting board!!!! but have yet to find a place for lessons to guide me through mistakes i was under trhe impression the knit stitch always needed to be wrapped on a peg after viewing the videos you have taught me otherwise you have np idea how video has helped the world of those stuck at home self teaching thank you sooooooooooo much i just wish now the boards were a bit less expensive you will hear from me again THANK YOU for helping me sincerely Maureen halle. i purchased the book reading has been reenforced.

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Apr 27, 2012

Dropped Stitches

It happens to be the best of us. You are busy knitting and purling and all of a sudden you get distracted and next thing you know, you look at your knitting and there it is, a big hole and ladders going all the way down. You panic and right away you see your many hours of work going down the drain! But wait! Before you go ahead and throw the knitting loom at the first person you see, check out this video. It will show you how to pick up a dropped knit stitch. Try it, it may just save your project.

How about a purl stitch? Here is a video demonstrating how to pick up a dropped purl stitch.

Written instructions on Picking up a Dropped Knit Stitch:
1. Insert a crochet hook from front to back through the loop of the bottommost dropped stitch.

2. With the crochet hook, catch the bottommost ladder (horizontal piece of yarn connecting one stitch to the other) and pull it through the loop of the dropped stitch. Thus creating the new loop stitch.

3. Repeat step 2 above until you have picked up all the ladders and you are at your last row/round of your fabric.

4. Remove the crochet hook from that piece of yarn.

5. When you’ve picked up the last dropped stitch, place that last loop onto empty pege and continue working.

But how about if you have a boatload of stitches that you have dropped or you have just realized that instead of knitting one entire row you purled it and you must go back to that row and fix it. First, locate the row/round below the one with “trouble”. Then, pass a piece of contrasting color yarn through EACH of the stitches, this yarn will hold all the stitches in place so you do not lose any other stitches. Now the scary part, take all the loops off the pegs and unravel all the stitches until you reach the row/round with the piece of scrap yarn. Next, place the stitches that are on the scrap yarn back on the knitting loom.

I found another great source for picking up dropped stitches, it is for knitting on needles but the same concept applies when picking up a dropped stitch. The source is from

Happy looming!


  • Wow, that looked super easy! Thanks for showing us how to pick up stitches. Makes the loom look more inviting knowing that our work can be recovered.

  • PS: just posted on twitter, facebook, pinterest and google+.

  • some patterns tell you to turn the knitting board when you get to the end of the row, some don’t . Do I have to and what is the purpose of turning it?

  • Hi Nancy,

    If you are using a knitting board where you have 2 rows of pins that you are working with you will need to hook over on both boards and an easy way to do this is by turning the knitting board around, but if you are single knitting you are not working with 2 rows, jut a big circle.

  • I’m making the slouchy hat and today I noticed I dropped a stitch after I had completed about 5 inches. So I was glad I saw this video on Friday & could correct my error without having to frog so much work.

  • This is just what I needed today! I can’t tell you how many times I have dropped a stitch and not known how to mend it without ripping out and starting from ground zero. Thanks! (I also shared this post on facebook and twitter = 23 points total for me)

  • Thanks Pat! I use both sides and it is easier for me to lace it without turning so I will just keep doing it like I have been. I have the 10 inch and 28 inch knitting boards and am giving some serious thought to getting the new all in one board. Happy stitiching yall!!

  • knitting with knitting loom (28″) both rows. Can you show me as well as written instructions how to pick up dropped stitches my othert alternative is to rip some rows in this case do i rip to beginning? Can i take just so many rows off? if I can do this -how do I rehook thw stitches on thwn pins? Help!! Please

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