Nov 6, 2014

Donation Time is Approaching!

Our annual drive for warm hand knit clothing has begun.  We donate every December to our American Veterans homes and hospitals.  They need hats, scarves, blankets, and mittens. We also like to share some baby items for the Abused Mothers with small children. This could be infant size hats and wraps in all sizes.

In the past, we also sent warm items to St Joseph’s Indian School in South Dakota.   The children love to get something that is hand made like a hat or scarf to keep them warm.

If you can knit up just one or two items, we will make sure they get to some very needy folks.  It’s a great way to use up some yarn remnants and clean out the closet.  They are especially great if a note from the knitter is attached with joyous, holiday sentiments.

Won’t you take an afternoon to brighten someone’s spirit and warm their cold heads and necks?  We thank you for your time and energy, and sharing spirits.  Send donations to address below by the end of December, 2014.

Authentic Knitting Board Team
Ref:  Donations of Knit Wear
60 Carysbrook Rd
Fork Union, VA 23055

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Nov 3, 2014

Stitchology III

 Chain Lace Stitch worked as a Flat Panel

CLS Square

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)

This month we’re going to get your fingers flying with a stitch that lends itself perfectly for holiday gifts!  You may have already heard of the Chain Lace Stitch, which I developed way back in the spring of 2012 as an introductory cowl pattern for the KB All-n-One Loom.  Since that time, I’ve received several requests to demonstrate how to work the stitch as a flat panel, rather than in the round.  I thought this month would be the perfect time to do this, as the Chain Lace Stitch would make a simply gorgeous scarf for holiday gift giving!  The pattern below is for our customary 8” x 8” square, but you can easily modify the pattern for creating pieces of a larger size.  Let the holiday looming commence! :D


Chain Lace Stitch worked as a Flat Panel

CLS close up

Items Needed:

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 55 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Patons Classic Wool Worsted in Jade Heather)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter)

Pattern Notes:

This stitch has also been worked in the round to great effect!  You can find two of these projects in the All-n-One Pattern Book: the Daytimer Bag and the Market Hat (as a way to weave the belt around the brim). To work this pattern in the round for a cowl, bag, or hat, see the video here.

For flat pieces of a longer size, begin with the Set Up Rows (working more as necessary for a wider border), then simply increase the number of Main Pattern Rows for the length desired. You will also want to match the final rows to the number of Set Up Rows.

This pattern is worked with CLS sections worked over 4 peg repeats, with border sections of 4 pegs on either side. For creating a flat piece of a wider size, increase the CLS section by increments of 4, and the border sections as desired.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

You may notice that the number of vertical border rows are greater than the number of stitches required to make the chains.  This is intentional.  The bordering garter stitch has a smaller gauge than the e-wrapped chain. The differing number of rows and chain stitches make for an even height in both.

Pattern Abbreviations:

Abbreviation Key

Grab your easy chair and a cuppa’ your favorite brew and we’ll go over, step-by-step, how to create the Chain Lace Stitch as a Flat Panel in this brand new Tutorial Video: (*See below for pattern’s complete written instructions)

Repeating Pattern Rows

There are two separate pattern rows which will be repeated throughout the Main Pattern Rows of the stitch. They are as follows:

CLS close up lgCLS Row One (peg #’s are for CLS section, not for peg #’s in actual pattern row)

* Peg 1:  move loop to peg 2, EW around peg 5 times (DO NOT KO!)

Peg 2:  EW once, KO 2 loops over 1. Move the top EW from peg 1 to peg 2 and KO. Repeat process to KO all 5 EW’s from peg 1.  Peg 1 will now be empty.

Peg 3:  move loop to peg 4

Peg 4:  EW and KO 2 loops over 1.  EW and KO 5 more times to create a chain.

Repeat from * until the end of the CLS section, or until pattern states.

CLS Row Two (peg #’s are for CLS section, not for peg #’s in actual pattern row)

* Peg 1: move loop to peg 2

Peg 2: EW and KO 2 loops over 1.  EW and KO 5 more times to create a chain.

Peg 3: move loop to peg 4, EW around peg 5 times (DO NOT KO!)

Peg 4: EW once, KO 2 loops over 1. Move the top EW from peg 3 to peg 4 and KO. Repeat process to KO all 5 EW’s from peg 3.  Peg 3 will now be empty.

Repeat from * until the end of the CLS section, or until pattern states.

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from right to left, using a total of 28 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Repeat the following 2 row pattern 3 times, for a total of 6 rows:

Row a: k28

Row b: p28

Main Pattern Rows

CLS front angle

Repeat the following 16 row pattern 2 times, for a total of 38 rows for your square (Some of these rows will require several steps to complete one row.):

Row 1:

  • -Pegs 1-4: You will be creating a flat panel using only these 4 pegs for 9 rows. Repeat the following 2 row pattern, ending with Row a, and at peg 4:

Row a: k4

Row b: p4,

  • -Work CLS Row One of Repeating Pattern Rows to peg 24,
  • -Move peg 24’s loop to peg 23,
  • -EW peg 24 5 times,
  • -Knit pegs 25-28,
  • -* Purl pegs 28-25,
  • -Add top wrap from peg 24 to peg 25, and KO 2 loops over 1,
  • -Knit pegs 26-28,
  • -Repeat from * of Row 1 three times, for a total of 9 rows on pegs 25-28.

Row 2:

  • -Purl pegs 28-22,
  • -* Lift connecting line to the front of peg 21 and purl,
  • -Purl peg 20,
  • -HHCO peg 19,
  • -Purl peg 18,
  • -Repeat from * of Row 2 to peg 5,
  • -Purl pegs 4-1.

Row 3:  k28

Row 4:  p28

Row 5:

  • -Pegs 1-4: You will be creating a flat panel using only these 4 pegs for 9 rows. Repeat the following 2 row pattern, ending with Row a, and at peg 4:

Row a: k4

Row b: p4,

  • -Move loop from peg 4 to peg 3,
  • -EW peg 4 5 times.
  • -EW peg 5 and KO,
  • -Move the top EW from peg 4 to peg 5 and KO. Repeat process to KO all 5 EW’s from peg 4.  Peg 4 will now be empty,
  • -Move top loop from peg 3 back to peg 4,
  • -CLS Row Two of Repeating Pattern Rows to peg 23,
  • -Move the loop from peg 24 to peg 25
  • -EW  peg 24 5 times,
  • -KO 2 loops over 1 on peg 25,
  • -Knit pegs 26-28,
  • -*Purl pegs 28-25,
  • -Add top wrap from peg 24 to peg 25, and KO 2 loops over 1,
  • -Knit pegs 26-28,
  • -Repeat from * of Row 5 three times, for a total of 9 rows on pegs 25-28.

CLS angleRow 6:

  • -Purl pegs 28-23,
  • -* HHCO to peg 22,
  • -Purl peg 21,
  • -* Lift connecting line to the front of peg 20 and purl,
  • -Purl peg 19,
  • -Repeat from * of Row 2 to peg 5,
  • -Purl pegs 4-1.

Rows 7-10:  Repeat Rows 3 & 4, then 1 & 2 of Main Pattern Rows.

Rows 11-16: Repeat the following 2 row pattern:

Row a: k28

Row b: p28

Repeat the previous 16 row pattern once more to complete the square.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

1 Comment

  • Beautiful work, Bethany!

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Nov 1, 2014

Men’s Beanie

mens beanie


A simple beanie designed for him in mind. Worked in simple, no fuss stitch pattern, with a super soft and airy wool yarn.

Knitting loom: Adjustable Hat Loom

Yarn: 140 yards of worsted weight merino wool. Malabrigo worsted in Paris Night was used in sample.

Notions: knitting tool and tapestry needle.

Gauge: 8 sts x 17 rows= 2 inches in stitch pattern.

Size: 9 inches x 9.5 inches when laid flat.  Model’s head size is 23-1/4 inches.

AbbreviationsTop of hat small

K: knit stitch (not ewrap)

P: purl stitch

Rep: repeat

Sts: stitches

Rnd(s): round(s)


Set knitting loom to small gauge at 80 pegs.

Cast on 80 sts, prepare to work in the round.

Rnd 1-10: *k1, p1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 11: k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 12: *k3, p1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rep Rnds 11 and 12: 32 more times

Next rnd: Move stitch from all odd numbered pegs to the even number peg; example from peg 1 to peg 2, from peg 3 to peg 4; etc. K to the end of rnd, (treat both loops on the even number pegs as one loop). At the end of this round, knitting loom should have one empty peg and a peg with one loop, all the way around.

Remove with gather removal method.Mens Beanie Side

Weave ends in. Block lightly.


  • May I use another loom for this pattern , as I do not have the hat loom?

  • Hi Renita!
    Love this hat :) Would love to make one for my son and my boyfriend! I know that your instructions are for the Adjustable Hat Loom, but is it possible to make this on the All-In-One Loom? I’m relatively new at all of this so I’m just not sure.


  • Hi Karen,
    This is Isela, I designed the hat pattern. Yes, you can do it on the All-n-One loom. You can follow the instructions exactly. Set your knitting loom to 80 pegs and start working with the same pattern.

  • You can use the All-n-One loom.

  • Thank you Isela!

  • Hello I am making this. When you say to do rounds 11 nd 12 ,32 more times do you mean like as a pair or just 32 more rows. I numbered a sheet 1-32 and alternated rows. And my hat isn’t very big.

  • As a pair

  • Hi I am not familiar with the term pair can you please explain I am not sure how to read patterns either when it say k1 does it mean knit 1 and when it says purl 6 do I purl 6 times on that peg I am confused please help

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Oct 27, 2014

Loom FAQs – How Do I Read a Pattern?


Another question that is often asked is “how do I read a pattern?”  Most times, it’s not even a question.  People will flat out say they don’t know how to read a pattern.  Or that patterns are too hard to read.  Some will even say they don’t care to learn when there are videos to watch.  Well I will say this:  If you don’t learn at least the basics of reading patterns, then you are limiting yourself to what you can make since not all patterns have videos.  So today I would like to address some of those Frequently Asked Questions in regards to reading a pattern.

Where do I start when I am reading a pattern?

I always recommend to start by reading the pattern fully first.  See what you need and when you need it.  Most times if it’s a pattern that has new skills, it can be overwhelming to read through it first.  That is ok.  Do not panic.  It happens to the best of us.  Then you take a deep breath and proceed gathering your supplies.  Once that is done, then you start.  But before we get into starting, let’s discuss how a pattern is usually written.

Patterns can usually be broken down into 3 parts.  I will be using parts of my Paving Rainbows hat pattern for an example.  You can find the complete pattern here:


Part 1:

The first part is the list of items you need to complete the project.  This is where you will find which loom is required, yarn recommended, and other notions needed.  Patterns will list the yarn needed in number of skeins, yards, or weight.  If you are using a different yarn than the one specified and it’s listed by skeins, balls, or yardage, then you will just need to compare the yardage of the yarn you are wanting to use with the one that was used in the pattern to make sure you have enough since not all skeins or balls have the same amount of yarn in them.

The Paving Rainbow Stones Hat pattern

     Loom: All-n-One loom set for 72 pegs. Sample made on the All-n-One.

     Yarn: 1 skein Bernat Mosaic in Calypso – Color A (or any medium weight yarn color of your choice). 1 skein Red Heart Super Saver in Black – Color B (or any medium weight yarn color of your choice)

     Notions: Loom tool, Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Part 2:

The second part is the abbreviations, gauge, and pattern notes.  In stand-alone patterns available on blogs or other sites, this will follow the list of items.  If it is a pattern in a book, the abbreviations will most likely be found at the front or back of the book.  But the gauge and pattern notes, if any, will still be in this location.

What is gauge?

Gauge tells you how many stitches and rows are in a certain number of inches so you know if your tension is correct when knitting an item that needs to be a certain size.  So if it reads,

In stockinette, 20 stitches x 30 rows = 4 inches

you will take a ruler and measure your swatch or work.  If you count 20 stitches in 4 inches on a row in all knit stitches and 30 rows in 4 inches, then you have achieved gauge.

Some patterns will not have it listed if gauge is not important.  Or sometimes the designer forgot to list it.  Oops…

What are pattern notes?

Pattern notes are the special instructions or little helpful tidbits provided by the designer to help clarify how the pattern is to be worked.

      Pattern Notes

· Use only one strand of yarn.

· Carry yarn to the inside of loom when not using. Do not cut.


· K – flat or u-wrap knit

· P – purl

· S – slip (skip)

· Rnd(s) – Round(s)

Part 3:

The third part is the actual instructions.  Most times it will be written out by rows or rounds.  Some patterns may be written in steps, like I did with my corkscrew tutorial.


E-wrap cast on all pegs.

Rnds 1 – 18 – With color A, K all

Place cast on loops back on pegs, knit over

Rnd 19 – K all

Drop Color A to inside of loom. Add Color B.

Rnd 20 – With color B, K all

Rnds 21-23 – P all

Drop Color B to inside of loom. Pick up Color A.

Rnds 24-29 – With color A, K3, *S2, K6*, repeat from * to * until last 5 pegs, S2, K3

So let’s start at the beginning.  First you will cast on.

What cast on and bind off methods do I use if the pattern doesn’t specify?

In this pattern, I specify an e-wrap cast on.  But when a particular cast on or bind off isn’t specified, then you just use the one that you like best.

Then you start with the first row or round.  In this pattern, rounds 1 – 18 are all the same, so instead of writing out each round, I combined them all into one line.  So for those 18 rounds, you will knit all the pegs.

Now let’s skip to after the brim is made.  I made a note to drop the first color and add the second.  It looks a little out of place here, but there are times where the instructions are needed in the pattern as you go along which is why the instructions for the color change is between the rounds.  Sometimes the designer will write those at the end of the row or round so there is not a break like you see here.

What does it mean when it says to “repeat from *”?

Let’s now look at rounds 24 – 29.  In this pattern, I put an * at the beginning and end of the part that is to be repeated.  Sometimes it will just be at the beginning of the repeat and then say “repeat from * to the end of the row”.  But what does that line mean?  We have seen rounds that are all knits or all purls.  But now we have a mixture of stitches with repeats.

The round reads “With Color A, K3, *S2, K6* repeat from * to * until the last 5 pegs, S2, K3”.  If that were written out for all the pegs, it would read like this:

With color A, knit 3 pegs, slip 2 pegs, knit 6 pegs, slip 2 pegs, knit 6 pegs, slip 2 pegs, knit 6 pegs, etc., until only 5 pegs remain in the round.  Then slip 2 pegs and knit 3 pegs.  Then you start the next round.  Or if it was written peg by peg, it would be: knit, knit, knit, slip, slip, knit, knit, knit, knit, knit, knit, slip, slip, knit, knit, knit, knit, knit…

So you can see why the rows or rounds are condensed down into abbreviations and repeats.  Otherwise, a simple pattern would be the size of a small book.

The more complicated repeats will often involve parenthesis as well as asterisks.

So to start off when learning to read a pattern, you may want to write each row or round out so you can better understand it.

And to keep from being overwhelmed by the entire pattern, I would recommend you concentrate on one row at a time.  Just go stitch by stitch and then row by row.  If something doesn’t seem to make sense then look at the previous row and the following row.  Sometimes it will make more sense when you see what is just below or just above the row you are working.

What do the abbreviations mean?

Reading patterns is like reading code.  The reason for abbreviations is for saving space, especially in books and magazines.  Here are some of the more common abbreviations.


BO – bind off

CA – color A

CB – color B

CC – contrasting color

CO – cast on

Dec – decrease

EW – e-wrap

Inc – increase

K – knit

K2tog – knit 2 together

KO – Knit over

M1 – make 1 increase

MC – main color

P – purl

P2tog – purl 2 together

PSSO – pass slipped stitch over

Rep – repeat

Rnd (s) – rounds(s)

S or sl – slip

SSK – slip, slip, knit those 2 stitches together

W&T – wrap and turn

YO – yarn over

What knit stitch do I use if it doesn’t say?

Most times if the pattern just says knit then it is a true or traditional knit stitch.  Some people like to call it a reverse purl.  You can use the u-wrap, flat knit, or even e-wrap, if you are needing to achieve a certain gauge due to your tension.  If the pattern says “no e-wrap”, then it is not recommended to use it since it really is a different stitch entirely.  It is taller and looser and will alter the finished size.

Why are patterns not all written the same?

This is a great question.  I really don’t have a good answer to that one except to say that, while most designers try to keep uniformity to patterns so that they are easy to read, some people are beginners, want to share their designs, and just don’t know how patterns are most commonly written.  And sometimes designers will write a pattern how they like to read them.

Why can I not just use videos?

There usually are not videos for all patterns.  And people cannot randomly make videos without the designer’s permission since it violates copyright.  But when working a pattern and you come across a technique you are unfamiliar with and the written instructions for that technique are confusing, videos are very helpful, and I would recommend using them.

How do I write a pattern?

If you are writing a pattern for the first time and are unsure of what to do, look at other patterns on blogs or on Ravelry.  Then try to follow suit in whatever way makes sense to you.  Most times, our first efforts seem to fall short of our expectations.  Just take a deep breath and try your best.  We all start somewhere and learn.

I really hope this helps get you started on reading patterns.  The worst thing that could happen is that you will need to rip the project out and start over.  But it is only yarn after all.  It is designed to be taken apart and reknit.



  • Excellent post, Renita! :) I would only add to your first bit about reading the pattern through entirely first and then possibly feeling overwhelmed or confused…a lot of times the steps that are confusing at the front end make way more sense when you are actually at that section and ready to knit it. I say this as an encouragement not to give up when that original confusion hits upon the first read-through. Just dive in and have fun! :D

    Once again…fantastic advice!

  • Thank you, Bethany! That means a lot to me. While I did say that later, I realize I should have addressed it at the beginning for those who don’t read the entire article.

    Just taking it stitch by stitch and row by row often answers those confusing questions we might have after the first read through.

  • Thank you very much. This was very informative and helped to clear up a few thing for me

  • Hi Renita,
    Where was a person like you when I first started learning knitting and reading patterns soo many years ago! Very good help for beginners! Thank you for a really great article that will be a help to many! Sue

  • I am holding on to this for dear life, I am knew to knitting and loom knitting and have never tried a pattern. You give me hope! Thank you!!

  • Thank you for posting this and explaining how a pattern is read and what a K 3 means to knit 3 pegs and so on I think a lot of times I read into things to much and the answer is staring me right in my face .I over whelm myself and once I try it it’s like thee light bulb comes on ,I will just keep pratcing and will catch on the problem is I try to make things perfect and get overwhelmed when its not as hard as it really is thank you again

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Oct 24, 2014

Swirling Leaves Cowl

Fall Cowl

Fall Cowl by Isela Phelps

The trees are changing color and perfect evening temperatures call for a cup of hot cocoa and pumpkin cookies. The Swirling Leaves cowl was inspired by all the beautiful colors of nature during this time of year.

Knitting loom: Afghan Knitting Loom, 141 pegs used.

Yarn: Approx 4400 yds of Aran weight wool blend. Breakdown: 300 yds of main color (MC), 50 yds of contrasting color (CC), 25 yds of second contrasting color (SCC), 25 yds of third contrasting color (TCC). Sample used Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran in Beige (Main color, 300 yards). Accent colors—Knit Picks Swish Worsted in Allspice (CC), Dublin (SCC), Cornmeal (TCC).

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle.

Gauge (blocked): 10sts x 15rows= 2 inches

Pattern notes: The cowl is worked as a flat panel, the flat panel then is seamed to a circular. The picot edging is worked as part of the body of the cowl. The leaves are loom knitted then sewn to the cowl. The connecting branches are embroidered on.


K=knit stitch (do not substitute with e-wrap).

P=purl stitch


MC=Main color

CC=Contrasting color

SCC=Second contrasting color

TCC=Third contrasting color

K2tog=knit two stitches together. Decrease slants to the right. How to: over 2 pegs, peg 1 is on the right, peg 2 is on the left. Move loop from peg 1 over to peg 2. Knit peg 2, treating both loops as one loop. Move stitch over to peg 1.

SSK=slip, slip knit. Decrease slants to the left.  How to: over 2 pegs, peg 1 is on the right, peg 2 is on the left. Move loop from peg 2 to peg 1. Knit peg 1, treating both loops as one loop.

M1=make one, an increase. Before you can do the M1, you need to have a peg empty where you need the increase, move the stitches outwards to create an empty peg.  Reach for the ladder going from one peg to the next peg, twist it and place it on the peg. When you reach the point where you created the twist, knit the peg as normal.


COWLFall Cowl

Cast on 141 pegs, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1: k1, *k1, k3; rep from * to the last 4 sts, k4.

Row 2: k4, *k3, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.

Rep Rows 1 and 2 until item measures approx. 11 inches from cast on edge.

Cut MC, join CC.

Next 4 rows: k to the end of row.

Next row: *k2tog, yo; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Next 4 rows: k to the end of row.

Bind off with basic bind off method.


Make 3-one with each color (CC, SCC, TCC)

Over 11 stitches (pegs)

Leave a 15 inch beginning yarn tail, cast on 3sts (working yarn should end by peg 3 after cast on. Row 1 should go in a left-right direction.) Prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1 and all other odd number rows: knit entire row

Row 2: k1, (m1, k1) twice. (5sts total)

Row 4: k2, m1, k1, m1, k2. (7sts total)

Row 6: k3, m1, k1, m1, k3. (9sts total)

Row 8: k4, m1, k1, m1, k4. (11sts total)

Row 10: ssk, k7, k2tog. (9sts total)

Row 12: ssk, k5, k2tog. (7sts total)

Row 14: ssk, k3, k2tog. (5sts total)

Row 16: ssk, k1, k2tog. (3sts total)

Row 18: sl1, k2tog, psso. Cut yarn leaving about a 20 inch yarn tail end (yarn tail end will be used to embroider the swirls). Fall Cowl Leaves layout

Bind off by passing the remaining yarn tail end through the last stitch.

Need more instructions on making the Leaf? Check out my original file on this item-Little Leaf


Block all items, including the leaves.

Fold the cowl in half, placing the right side and left side together, mattress stitch seam along the side.

Picot edging seaming: it is imperative that the item is blocked to open up the picot edging prior to sewing it down. Fold down the picot edging, naturally the picot edging will fold down along the line of the eyelets. Using the long tail of CC sew down the picot edge.

Weave ends in.

Leaves placement: Use the photo shown layout the leaves by one of the sides of the cowl, you can also do a different layout. Sew the leaf in place.

Embroidering the connecting swirls: Use the chain stitch to embroider the swirls. Chain stitch: Thread tapestry needle with yarn tail from the leaf, draw the needle up the knitted fabric and *insert it back where it just came out, looping a short stitch. With the needle above the yarn, hold the yarn with your thumb and draw it through, pulling all the yarn out and leaving the small loop. Repeat from the *. Concentrate on keeping the chains the same size. Tip: if this is your first time embroidering, experiment first on a piece on another type of knitted fabric.

Great link on embroidery basics:

Weave all ends in. Block again if necessary.


  • This is so darling! I’ve always loved the look of embroidery and applique on knits! :)

  • Bethany, I had finished the cowl and I “thought” it was already and it was lacking something. Then I remembered the little leaf and I thought, “you know, I bet those would make this look 100% better”. I am very pleased with it. I think I am going to keep it :)

  • Hi Isela!!!

    Your patterns are just wonderful!! Thank you soooo much for sharing your talent.

    I purchased the Book Loom Knitting For Babies & Toddlers.

    I am currently working on the Baby Bib……… The size of mine is not the same size as yours and wanted to know what I was doing wrong.

    When I count stitches in the photo it looks like there are actually twice as many as what the pattern calls for???

    Thank you sooo much for your help!!

    Prim Blessings

  • That is DARLING! (as always, you inspire!)

    1. For the knit stitch did you use the reverse of the purl? Or did you use flat or u-stitch? I know sometimes you can interchange them and sometimes it’s best not to.
    2. What were the finished dimensions of the cowl? It looks large (that’s not a bad thing, I was am just curious – also, perhaps your model is ultra-petite.)
    3. How much shape did the cowl hold? Did it drape with the yarn you used or was it as upright as shown in the top pic. In one pic she’s holding it up so it was difficult to tell if this was done for photography purposes or if it stood up on it’s own.

    Love this!!! The colors, the design…it’s all lovely!

  • Alyna,
    1. Knit stitch used was the reverse of the purl. For all of my knits, I typically use the reverse of the purl as it is the one with the most height and the closest to needle knit look. If you use the flat or u-stitch know that yours will look a lot tighter and it may not drape as much because the stitches are so tight.
    2. Dimensions–I am not home to check, but it was wide, I want to say about 20-24 inches in width. I was aiming for a cowl that went a little lower in the front to keep more of the chest warm.
    3. The cowl has drape with the yarn I used. If you use a yarn that doesn’t have as much drape, like an acrylic yarn, the cowl will be a little bit more stiff and sit more upright. The model is holding the cowl up so that the leaves can show. If she wasn’t holding it up, the cowl sits down folded around the neckline.

  • Is it length or width that you are missing?

  • Dear Isela,
    I love the pattern but I personally do not wear cowl as it is never that cold in Brazil.
    Is it possible to get to a similar look using the AIO? Do you have any instructions using that pattern for a blanket?
    Even being a begginer, I would like to save it for a future project.
    Love all you do and your book! Thank you,

  • Thank you so much, Isela!!!

  • Juliane, a blanket would look lovely with this design. The design in question is worked in the round, if you were working in it flat, I would adjust as follows:

    Cast on a multiple of 4 + 3 (example: 160+3=163 stitches)
    Row 1: k to the end of round
    Row 2: *k3, p1, rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.
    Repeat the above two rows until blanket is desired length.

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Oct 20, 2014

Yarn Yammer: Wool of the Andes

Last month when I asked about your favorite yarns, I got a lot of comments about Knit Picks yarns. So I thought this month I would do a review of Knit Picks yarn Wool of the Andes.

I first used Wool of the Andes when I was knitting catalog samples for Knit Picks back in 2005! I really loved it at first try. It is a nice yarn with some beautiful colors. It blocks very well, making stitch patterns come out crisp and well defined.  After making and ‘road testing’ quite a few knitted garments with it, I can say it wears comfortably and well, with no more than your average piling. This yarn is pleasant to work with and I have rarely had issues with it tangling from their center pull ball, and I have rarely run across a knot in the middle as well.


Wool of the Andes comes in a few different varieties; there is sport weight, worsted weight and bulky weight. These are all 100% wool and come in a large variety of colors.

There are also tweed and superwash Wool of the Andes available.  For those who like  undyed wool Knit Picks scratches that itch with Wool of the Andes Bare which comes in worsted and bulky weights. If any of you happen to be a spinner, there also is Wool of the Andes roving.

Let’s look at a few of the specifics:



 Wool of the Andes Worsted Weight


Wool of the Andes worsted weight currently comes in 100 different colors. It is 100% Peruvian wool and Peruvian sheep are a cross between Corriedale (for the sturdiness) and Merino (for the softness). This yarn is sturdy while soft enough for against the skin wear, and it felts beautifully.On a small gauge knitting loom (3/8″ peg spacing) you should get close to the knitting gauge listed below.

Current cost: $2.69 50g / ball.

Fiber Content: 100% Peruvian Highland Wool
Weight: Worsted Weight
Knitting Gauge: 4.5 – 5 sts = 1″ on #6 – 9 needles (4.0mm-5.5mm)
Crochet Gauge: 11–14 sc = 4” on I – K hooks (5.5 mm-6.5 mm)
Yards: 110
Grams: 50
Put Up: ball
Care: Hand Wash/Dry Flat

Wool of the Andes Bulky


This is the bulked up big brother of the Wool of the Andes yarn family. Again it is made with the same 100% Peruvian Highland wool, and is soft and durable. It currently comes in around 30 colors. This yarn is put up in hanks, so that does mean you will need to wind it into a ball to work with it.

Current price: $4.99 100g / hank

Fiber Content: 100% Peruvian Highland Wool
Weight: Bulky Weight
Knitting Gauge: 3 – 3.75 sts = 1″ on #10 – 11 needles (6.0mm-8.0mm)
Crochet Gauge: 8–11 sc = 4” on K-M hooks (6.5mm – 9mm)
Yards: 137
Grams: 100
Put Up: hank
Care: Hand Wash/Dry Flat

Wool of the Andes Sport Weight


Wool of the Andes Sport Weight is the thinnest version of this yarn range. Like the others it comes in a good variety of colors which currently is around 50 colors. On a smaller gauge loom like the AIO, you will get a nice result and this yarn will work very well if you want to make a pair of heavier socks on a sock loom, the fabric might be a bit on the firm side but that will keep your toes toasty! The sport weight yarn is also great to use if you plan to do color work, as it will add less bulk to your project!

Fiber Content: 100% Peruvian Highland Wool
Weight: Sport Weight
Knitting Gauge: 6 sts = 1″ on #3-5 needles (3.25mm-3.75mm)
Crochet Gauge: 16–20 sc = 4” on E-7 hooks
Yards: 137
Grams: 50
Put Up: ball
Care: Hand Wash/Dry Flat


There are superwash versions of the Worsted, Bulky yarns. This offers you an option that is machine washable and dryeable, but otherwise has the same qualities of the regular yarns. The main difference, aside from price, is that the superwash versions are offered in a smaller range of colors.

Worsted: $3.69 50g / ball   Bare: $6.19 100g / Hank (220 yards)

Bulky: $7.39 100g / Hank    Bare: $6.19 100g / Hank

I hope this helps you when choosing yarns for your projects. It can be hard choosing yarns to buy online,  and the more you know the better!

KnitPicks also happens to be having a 10% sale through Oct. 22, 2014 enter code EXTRATEN at check out!

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