I want to thank everyone who participated in our contest. It was a lot of fun. We had many conversations started and sharing of ideas which was the goal of the contest. Thank you, everyone!
Now, on with announcing the winners!! Drum roll please………..

3rd prize goes to Brenda Rivera with 6 points
2nd Prize goes to Yarnitect Dana with  22 points
1st Prize goes to Kim Jones with 23 points

Note to winners: Please send your mailing information to info@knittingboard.com so that we can rush out your prizes.

Thank you,
Kim and Pat and the Authentic Knitting Board team
www.knittingboard.com

Rnd 12: k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 13: *k2, SKYF2; rep from * to the end of rnd.

Repeat Rnds 11-14 until sock leg measures 6 inches or desired length.

A few concerns on Round 11 and 12.

Round 11 is all a matter of skipping two pegs with the yarn in front of the peg and then knitting the next two pegs.

Round 12 is where the tricky part comes in. You need to knit all the pegs, but you have to place the strand that is front of the peg towards the back of the peg but in front of the right side of the fabric.

I prepared a small video showing how to do this on the knitting loom.

Let me know if this helps a bit on how to do this section of the sock.

Also, here is a playlist of mini-videos to help you with this pattern.

Let me just quickly write down some numbers here for you, in case you didn’t see my comments in the comments section.

So let’s get ready to cast on our knitting loom, shall we! For the first part of the LAL, let’s do the first 10 rows.

Cast on INSERT NUMBER OF PEGS NECESSARY FOR YOUR FOOT, join to work in the round.

Rnds 1-4:k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 5: *yo, k2tog; rep from *  to the end of rnd.

Rnds 6-9: k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 10: Pick up cast on edge and place the loops back on the peg as if creating a brim. K to the end of rnd.

How to do round 5?

Move the loop from every odd number peg to the neighbor peg, loop from peg 1 to peg 2, loop from peg 3 to peg 4, loop from peg 5 to peg 6…to the end.

Then, you will e-wrap peg 1, knit peg 2, treating both loops on peg 2 as one loop. Continue in this form til the end of the round.

How to do round 10?

Find the cast on round (it is the first round you put on the loom), locate the first loop (it is right by the yarn tail), place that loop back up onto peg 1. Grab the next loop to it, place it onto peg 2, continue around until you have picked every loop from the cast on edge and it is sitting back on the loom. Each peg should have 2 loops on it. Knit the round.

Let’s get to this point and on Monday, we shall begin the leg portion of the sock.

Questions, concerns, just hit me in the comments below and I’ll answer in the comments for you.

Have a great weekend!

I hope I have given you enough time to knit up that swatch and get things rolling a little more. At this point, you should have completed the swatch and measured it. So far we have the following numbers:

11 sts x 16 rows = 2 inches

9.5 sts x 21 rows = 2 inches

Anyone else?

Next step: please measure around the ball of the foot of the person who you are going to be knitting the sock. Check out this link on how to measure your feet, you want to do #4 on the list.

Once we have the gauge and the measurement around the ball of the foot, we can more accurately calculate how many stitches to cast on.

For example: my foot measures 8.5 inches around and I got a gauge of 9.5 sts=2 inches. You can do the math two ways: Divide 8.5 inches (measurement around the ball of the foot) by 2=4.25 x 9.5 (multiply that by the stitches per in, 9.5)=40.375

Or

Divide the stitches in the 2 inches by 1. 9.5/2=4.75  then multiply that number by the measurement around the ball of the foot. 4.75 x 8.5=40.375

Socks are knitted at a negative ease so they fit snugly around the foot, the negative ease that we typically use for socks is around 10%. From the number we arrived at, 40.375 for my foot, we are going to decrease 10%. I round up or down so I am left with a multiple of 4 of the necessary multiple for the sock pattern.  In this case, I am rounding down to 36 pegs.

Okay my dears, now it is your turn. You have your gauge, now measure your foot and see if you can calculate the number of pegs needed for your socks. If you can’t, no worries, post in the comments the following: Gauge, measurement of the ball of the foot at widest point and then say HELP ;).

I will come by tomorrow, Thursday to get us going in the right direction with the number of pegs to use for our sock.

Let’s get this rolling with stage one. First, please comment under this blogpost and let me know which knitting loom you will be using along with the thickness of yarn that you will be using for your project. I especially need to know if you are using another loom other than the AllnOne.

Remember: we will be doing the Double Woven Socks.

Get your pattern, printed out and add a few pages of clean paper, just to write down some notes.

What you will need:

Loom: All-n-One Knitting Loom or the Sock Loom

Yarn: If using the All-n-One Knitting Loom, you will need 150-180 yards of worsted weight yarn. If using the Sock Loom, I recommend obtaining about 350 yards of fingering weight sock yarn.

Tools: tapestry needle, 2 double pointed knitting needles in a either a size 8 (if using worsted weight yarn) or a size 2 (if using fingering weight yarn).

DAY 1 of Loom-a-Long: SWATCH

Cast on 24 pegs if using the AllnOne, 34 pegs if using the sock loom, on your knitting loom, join to work in the round.

Work a tube that is about 4 inches long: use the Knit stitch–you may use the Flat Stitch.

Bind it off. Block it lightly.

Now, let’s measure for gauge/tension.

Gauge/tension  refers to the number of stitches and rows per inch in your sample swatch.

Measuring your Swatch:

Set it flat on a smooth, hard surface. Lay a ruler horizontal across the  the center of the swatch and count the number of stitches in 2 inches.  Now measure rows by laying the ruler vertically across the swatch. Count the number of rows in 2 inches.  There, now you have your gauge/tension with your knitting loom and your yarn.

Leave me that number in the comments below so I can reference to it, especially if you are using another knitting loom other than the AllnOne.

Loom: AllnOne Knitting Loom

Yarn: Approx 60 yards of worsted weight cotton yarn.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle

Size: Approx 7 x 7 inches

DIRECTIONS

Cast on 37 sts, prepare to work a flat panel
R1 (must go from right to left—clockwise around the loom): p37
R2: k37
R3: p37
R4: k37
R5: p3, k3, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k2, p3
R6: k37
R7: p3, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k1, p3
R8: k37
R9: p3, k3, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k2, p3
R10: k37
R11: p3, k31, p3
R12: k37
R13: p3, k7, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, sl1 k psso, yo, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, p3
R14: k37
R15: p3, k5, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k5, p3
R16: k37
R17: p3, k7, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, sl1 k psso, yo, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, p3
R18: k37
R19: p3, k31, p3
R20: k37
R21: p3, k3, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k2, p3
R22: k37
R23: p3, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k1, p3
R24: k37
R25: p3, k3, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k2, p3
R26: k37
R27: p3, k31, p3
R28: k37
R29: p3, k7, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, sl1 k psso, yo, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, p3
R30: k37
R31: p3, k5, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k5, p3
R32: k37
R33: p3, k7, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, sl1 k psso, yo, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, p3
R34: k37
R35: p3, k31, p3
R36: k37
R37: p3, k3, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k2, p3
R38: k37
R39: p3, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k1, p3
R40: k37
R41: p3, k3, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k2, p3
R42: k37
R43: p3, k31, p3
R44: k37
R45: p3, k7, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, sl1 k psso, yo, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, p3
R46: k37
R47: p3, k5, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k5, p3
R48: k37
R49: p3, k7, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, sl1 k psso, yo, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, p3
R50: k37
R51: p37
R52: k37
R53: p37
Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave ends in.

How about a purl stitch? Here is a video demonstrating how to pick up a dropped purl stitch.

Written instructions on Picking up a Dropped Knit Stitch:
1. Insert a crochet hook from front to back through the loop of the bottommost dropped stitch.

2. With the crochet hook, catch the bottommost ladder (horizontal piece of yarn connecting one stitch to the other) and pull it through the loop of the dropped stitch. Thus creating the new loop stitch.

3. Repeat step 2 above until you have picked up all the ladders and you are at your last row/round of your fabric.

4. Remove the crochet hook from that piece of yarn.

5. When you’ve picked up the last dropped stitch, place that last loop onto empty pege and continue working.

But how about if you have a boatload of stitches that you have dropped or you have just realized that instead of knitting one entire row you purled it and you must go back to that row and fix it. First, locate the row/round below the one with “trouble”. Then, pass a piece of contrasting color yarn through EACH of the stitches, this yarn will hold all the stitches in place so you do not lose any other stitches. Now the scary part, take all the loops off the pegs and unravel all the stitches until you reach the row/round with the piece of scrap yarn. Next, place the stitches that are on the scrap yarn back on the knitting loom.

I found another great source for picking up dropped stitches, it is for knitting on needles but the same concept applies when picking up a dropped stitch. The source is from VogueKnitting.com

Happy looming!
Isela

Gather your supplies as we are going to embark on our very first loom-a-long! But it is not just any loom-a-long, we will be focusing for the entire month of May on SOCKS! We will be following the Double Woven Sock Pattern.

Although the pattern was written for the All-n-One knitting loom, I will be able to help you to adapt it to the Sock Loom, so this is a great chance to see how to adapt a pattern made for one sock loom and create it on another sock loom with a different gauge.

What you will need:

Loom: All-n-One Knitting Loom or the Sock Loom

Yarn: If using the All-n-One Knitting Loom, you will need 150-180 yards of worsted weight yarn. If using the Sock Loom, I recommend obtaining about 350 yards of fingering weight sock yarn.

Tools: tapestry needle, 2 double pointed knitting needles in a either a size 8 (if using worsted weight yarn) or a size 2 (if using fingering weight yarn).

The loom-a-long will start on May 1st, we will break up the pattern into 7 sections: Swatch for your Loom: this is the day when we will focus on adapting the pattern to different size looms, calculating peg numbers and length of the sole, Cuff, Leg, Heel, Sole, Toe, Closing the Toe.

We have heard your requests and we are pleased to announce a new collection of videos, exclusively for the AllnOne Knitting loom and the Sock Loom. We covered the following topics:

Single Sided Knitting

Basic Cast On
Crochet Cast On
Knit Stitch
Flat Stitch
Purl Stitch
Ewrap Stitch
Increase
Decrease
Basic Bind Off
Gather Bind Off

We also have videos on how to use the new AllnOne Knitting Loom as a knitting board.

Double Knitting

Cast On with Anchor Yarn
Cast On Figure 8
Stockinette Stitch
Ribbing Stitch
Basic Cable
Change of Color
Increase and Decrease
Bind Off Loom and Anchor Yarn

We hope you enjoy these videos and stay tuned for more to come!