Headband LAL-Complete mini-video playlist

Hey friends,

The entire playlist has been uploaded and is ready for you.  Enjoy!

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Headband Pattern Video LAL 1 and 2

Help to the rescue!!!

After 6 hours, the videos have finally finished uploading! Yay! We have two parts ready for you. Part 1 covers til row 8. Part 2 covers til row 12. These two parts have you covered for the increases portion of the headband. If you have any questions, comments, hit me up below in the comments and I’ll do my best to answer them within 48 hours.

2 Comments

• Linda Howard February 12, 2013 at 8:18 pm

  Are written instructions forthcoming?
• Mindy williams February 20, 2013 at 10:22 pm

  I am so new I just received my loom today! But I am very confused. If you use the e cast on, can you go back a forth? Or do you always need to knit in the round? I have watched several videos for casting on, I favor the figure 8 cast on-but there isn’t any information as to what I would do after casting on, do I continue doing the figure 8 or the every other wrap. I was wondering if you could also recommend a good starter book. I am a very experienced knitter but my hands need a break. I also prefer to knit with fingering yarn, but trying it in my 28″ board gave me awful results.

  Thank you for your help
  Mindy

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Loom Knit Headband Pattern

Welcome my loomy knitters! It is February! Snow still coming down here in Utah…sigh, and we are feeling like penguins and walking like some too, hahaha.

Materials

Loom: All-n-One Loom  Single knit with 33 pegs.

Yarn: Approx 100 yards of worsted weight yarn in color of choice. Worsted Weight yarn. Sample was worked with Cascade 220 Superwash Wool in Gray.

Notions: knitting tool, measuring tape.

Headband Pattern Directions

Note: Pattern by Tiffany Matthews. Converted to loom knitting by Isela Phelps with permission from Tiffany Matthews.

Cast on 9 sts

Row 1 (Going from right to left on your knitting loom): k1, *p1, k1; rep from * to end of row.

Row 2 (Go from left to right on the loom): k1, *p1, k1; rep from * to end of row.

Row 3: Repeat row 1

Row 4: Repeat row 2

Begin the increases:

Row 5: k1, p1, k1, p1, kf&b, p1, k1, p1, k1 (10 sts)

Row 6: k1, p1, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p1, k1 (two knit stitches are at the center of the row. You will increase BETWEEN these two knit stitches on the next row.)

Row 7: k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, m1b, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1 (11 sts)

Row 8: Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches, knit the knit stitches, purl the purl stitches.

Row 9: k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, pfb, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1 (12 sts)

Row 10: k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1  (again, you will have two purl stitches next to each other right at the center of the row, you will increase BETWEEN these two stitches on the next row)

Row 11: k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, m1f, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1 (13 st)

Row 12: Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Continue to increase in this manner until your work measures 7” from the cast on edge. You should have 33 stitches on the needle.

Work in the rib pattern for another 4” (until you have 11” from the cast on edge—this is the place where you work less rows to make a smaller or longer headband)

Begin the decrease:

Row 1: [K1, P1] 7x, K1, P3tog, K1, [P1, K1] 7x (31 sts)

Row 2-4: Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Row 5: [K1, P1] 7x, K3tog, [P1, K1] 7x (29 sts)

Row 6-8: Work in the rib pattern across all the stitches

Continue to decrease in this manner—every other row that goes from right to left, k3tog or p3tog the two very center stitches, with the rest of the stitches being worked in rib stitch (knitting the knits purling the purls)–until you have 9 stitches remaining on the loom. Last 4 rows: work in rib stitch as established. Remove from the loom using the Basic Bind Off method leave the last stitch on the peg.

Transfer the last stitch to a crochet hook. Chain 4-6 stitches and connect them to the beginning of the BO edge (this makes the button loop so size it according to the size of your button).

*You may continue doing a decorative crochet edging. Single crochet around the entire headband edge. The entire crochet border is optional. It gives the edge a bit of a decorative look. But the headband looks fine without it. If you choose not to do it.

To make the headband wider, cast on extra stitches. To make it longer, add extra rows at the center.

LAL videos coming right up-3 videos just for you.

3 Comments

• Sara Schildmeyer February 11, 2013 at 10:45 pm

  This is beautiful – is the flower crocheted?
• Isela February 12, 2013 at 5:50 am

  Yes, the flower is crochet.
• Susie April 4, 2013 at 11:31 pm

  I love all your patterns. Do you have any adult women skirt or dress patterns? I’ve been searching for knitting boards and looms and can’t find any. I’ve found some for regular knitting, but I don’t know how to transfer that pattern for a loom or knitting board. Any advice would be helpful. Thank you!

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LAL: Sole & Toe

Hi friends,

Hope you all had a wonderful holiday weekend. I guess, we are all coming along well with the sock. I didn’t receive any questions in respect to the heel, if any of you are stuck, please leave me a comment and I will do my best to help you.

This week, we are going to finish our sock. The Sole is straight stockinette (knit all the rounds) and you do this until the sole measures approximately, 2 inches less than desired length for the foot.

Once we have knitted the sole of the sock, we will repeat the instructions that we did for the HEEL portion one more time to create the extra fabric for the toe section.

Let’s get to that point and then we will continue to the very last portion where we seam the toe close using the KITCHENER STITCH.

4 Comments

• Mary May 30, 2012 at 2:54 am

  I finished the second sock today. Hurray! They were really fun to make and fit very well. Thanks for the knit a long.
• Jean Blackley June 7, 2012 at 10:42 am

  I finished my first sock. Way to tight in the heel. What did I do wrong?
• Marilyn Gruber July 7, 2012 at 12:08 pm

  Hello, I have great hope for assistance with a question and my two new looms (AllnOne and the sock loom). I am having a difficult time understanding the cable-cast-on method, can someone suggest a good resourse for me to use? The pattern book I have suggest using this method lots, but I am having a difficult time following the written info and pictures in the book. Also, can someone please explain “Join to form a round” when working on a loom? Does this mean I do a special stitch between the pegs to connect them? Thank you for help.
• Traci January 2, 2013 at 4:09 am

  I am trying to make ruffle scarf on long loom I am having problem with yarn being too tight when transferring to other side. What should I do differently. Is it the lack of stretch in yarn. I am using red heart sashay.

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LAL: Heel

How is everyone’s socks coming along? At this point, you should have completed the leg portion of the sock. Next up is the heel. The heel is formed by working short-rows. Short rowing is a knitting technique that adds extra room by creating extra fabric in one area. Short rowing involves knitting to a certain point in your knitting and then turning back in the other direction, leaving some stitches at the end of the row unworked–thus the term “short”. Turning in the opposite direction will leave a small hole in the knitting, to avoid this hole, we “wrap” the peg and then “turn” in the apposite direction.

To work the heel, you will be working on half the stitches that you used for your sock. Locate the number of stitches on your sock, then use the number indicated for the heel.

Heel instructions as written for the pattern (I have included some starting instructions in parenthesis for those who are working on more pegs than indicated in the pattern):

HEEL

The heel is worked in short rows to create the extra fabric to accommodate the heel.

*Tip: Place stitch marker on peg 1 and peg 20 (or the last peg where you need to knit your sock).

Knit from peg 1 to peg 19 (or to 1 peg before reaching the last stitch marker). Wrap & Turn on peg 20 (on last peg).

Knit from peg 18 to peg 2. Wrap & Turn on peg 1.

Knit from peg 2 to peg 18 (or to two pegs before the last stitch marker). Wrap & Turn on peg 19 (on second to last peg).

Knit from peg 18 to peg 3. Wrap & Turn on peg 2.

Knit from peg 3 to peg 17. Wrap & Turn on peg 18.

Knit from peg 17 to peg 4. Wrap & Turn on peg 3.

Knit from peg 4 to peg 16. Wrap & Turn on peg 17.

Knit from peg 16 to peg 5. Wrap & Turn on peg 4.

Knit from peg 5 to peg 15. Wrap & Turn on peg 16.

Knit from peg 15 to peg 6. Wrap & Turn on peg 5.

Knit from peg 6 to peg 14. Wrap & Turn on peg 15.

Knit from peg 14 to peg 7. Wrap & Turn on peg 6.

(There will be 6 pegs at each side with wraps and 8 pegs in the center without wraps).

Knit from peg 7 to peg 15. (When knitting the peg with wrap(s) on it, pick up the wrap(s) and the loop, treating them all as one loop). Wrap & Turn peg 16.

Knit from peg 15 to peg 6. (When knitting the peg with wrap(s) on it, pick up the wrap(s) and the loop, treating them all as one loop). Wrap & Turn peg 5.

Knit from peg 6 to peg 16. (When knitting the peg with wrap(s) on it, pick up the wrap(s) and the loop, treating them all as one loop). Wrap & Turn peg 17.

Knit from peg 16 to peg 5. (When knitting the peg with wrap(s) on it, pick up the wrap(s) and the loop, treating them all as one loop). Wrap & Turn peg 4.

Knit from peg 5 to peg 17. (When knitting the peg with wrap(s) on it, pick up the wrap(s) and the loop, treating them all as one loop). Wrap & Turn peg 18.

Knit from peg 17 to peg 4. (When knitting the peg with wrap(s) on it, pick up the wrap(s) and the loop, treating them all as one loop). Wrap & Turn peg 3.

Knit from peg 4 to peg 18. (When knitting the peg with wrap(s) on it, pick up the wrap(s) and the loop, treating them all as one loop). Wrap & Turn peg 19.

Knit from peg 18 to peg 3. (When knitting the peg with wrap(s) on it, pick up the wrap(s) and the loop, treating them all as one loop). Wrap & Turn peg 2.

Knit from peg 3 to peg 19. (When knitting the peg with wrap(s) on it, pick up the wrap(s) and the loop, treating them all as one loop). Wrap & Turn peg 20.

Knit from peg 19 to peg 2. (When knitting the peg with wrap(s) on it, pick up the wrap(s) and the loop, treating them all as one loop). Wrap & Turn peg 1.*

Heel completed, continue with the rest of the instructions, working in the round from this point forward (Pegs 1 and 20 have wraps on them, treat the wraps and the loop on the peg as one loop).

Let me know if you have any questions, concerns and I’ll come answer the questions this evening and tomorrow. Let’s get the heel done this week and next week we will tackle the sole.

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LAL-Getting started

Alright, I think we got the numbers of pegs ironed out and we are ready to get this started! Yay!

Let me just quickly write down some numbers here for you, in case you didn’t see my comments in the comments section.

So let’s get ready to cast on our knitting loom, shall we! For the first part of the LAL, let’s do the first 10 rows.

Cast on INSERT NUMBER OF PEGS NECESSARY FOR YOUR FOOT, join to work in the round.

Rnds 1-4:k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 5: *yo, k2tog; rep from *  to the end of rnd.

Rnds 6-9: k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 10: Pick up cast on edge and place the loops back on the peg as if creating a brim. K to the end of rnd.

How to do round 5?

Move the loop from every odd number peg to the neighbor peg, loop from peg 1 to peg 2, loop from peg 3 to peg 4, loop from peg 5 to peg 6…to the end.

Then, you will e-wrap peg 1, knit peg 2, treating both loops on peg 2 as one loop. Continue in this form til the end of the round.

How to do round 10?

Find the cast on round (it is the first round you put on the loom), locate the first loop (it is right by the yarn tail), place that loop back up onto peg 1. Grab the next loop to it, place it onto peg 2, continue around until you have picked every loop from the cast on edge and it is sitting back on the loom. Each peg should have 2 loops on it. Knit the round.

Let’s get to this point and on Monday, we shall begin the leg portion of the sock.

Questions, concerns, just hit me in the comments below and I’ll answer in the comments for you.

Have a great weekend!

18 Comments

• Jackie Sickle May 6, 2012 at 5:04 am

  I didn’t see the comments. I’ll c o 36 sts from your chart, but I got 50 sts from measuring my foot. I don’t want to get behind. Jackie
• Jackie Sickle May 6, 2012 at 6:41 pm

  I’ve done my 10 rows on 36 sts. It looks small to me. I got 11sts 15 rows =2 “. My foot is 8.5″ first I got 50 pegs and now go 46. I don’t want to go any further until I’m sure of how many cast ons I need. Jackie
• Sharon May 7, 2012 at 12:10 am

  Jackie – 8.5 x (11/2) x 0.9 = 42.075
  You need to round this to the nearest multiple of 4 (40 or 44) for this pattern. I would round it down to 40 sts. I have the same stitch gauge as you, but a 9 1/4 foot measurement. I rounded down to 44 sts for my foot size. Hope this helps!
• Jackie Sickle May 7, 2012 at 3:46 pm

  Thanks Sharon. I’m going to start over. I don’t want to have socks I can’t wear. I appreciate your help. Jackie
• Jackie Sickle May 7, 2012 at 5:21 pm

  When you wrap every peg on rnd. 6, it will have 3on every other one and 1 on the others. How can you knit every st? I’m confused Sorry
• Jackie Sickle May 7, 2012 at 6:01 pm

  Went back and re-read the pattern. All straightened out. Have my 10 rows done. My only excuse is my age. I’m 80 and get confused sometimes
• Lena May 7, 2012 at 7:53 pm

  Do you have a recommendation for the best cast on for a sock?
• Isela May 8, 2012 at 4:26 pm

  You need a flexible cast on for socks, I would recommend the cable cast on or the ewrap cast on.
• Mary May 8, 2012 at 10:30 pm

  Isela–
  Would it be possible for you to make a video of your knit stitch (skyf2) used in this pattern? I’m still not getting it right….drats!

  Thanks!! It’s so nice of you to share this lovely pattern with us!
• Mary May 8, 2012 at 11:04 pm

  Just found your video and watched it. Thanks. Will continue with my sock now.
• Maxine May 9, 2012 at 4:08 am

  Isela,

  I have a question about the loom you use in your book: LOOM KNITTING SOCKS. I bought a set of round looms at my local Walmart that are made by Boye. Are they the same gauge as the KK that you use in your book? I know they are a larger gauge then the AKB sock loom, that i’m currently using to knit socks with. I was just wondering if they could be used to make the socks in your book.

  Thank you,
  Maxine
• Lena welch May 12, 2012 at 1:51 am

  I am finding that my knit stitch is coming out very uneven. I was wondering about trying a flat stitch instead. Are there any benefits of one over the other?
• Mary May 15, 2012 at 4:53 am

  I finished the first sock and it fits pretty well. Now to make the other one.
• Isela May 16, 2012 at 3:02 pm

  The flat stitch will work, just make sure that you don’t knit too tightly. ;)
• Isela May 16, 2012 at 3:04 pm

  Maxine,
  I don’t think they are the same gauge. The looms I used in that book are finer in gauge, those are considered extra fine gauge, the KB sock loom is a fine gauge loom. You can use the KB loom but you will need to adapt to the gauge given on the KB sock loom.
• Maxine May 18, 2012 at 12:40 am

  Thank you Isela. Guess i didn’t read the part about which looms you used in making the socks. Looking at the photos, i thought you used the round ones, but further reading, i saw which ones you used.
• chris May 22, 2012 at 4:10 am

  have just got sock knitting loom from authentic knitting and finding it sooo different from kk looms.cant seem to get a loose enough stitch to hook over,any help will be great.thanks
• Isela May 29, 2012 at 10:03 pm

  Chris,
  Practice, practice, practice. The more you use the loom, the easier it will get and the stitches will become less tight as you get more comfortable with the loom.

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