Browsing articles in "AllnOne Knitting Loom"
Oct 17, 2014

Hashtag Hat

Have some fun and hashtag you!  Great project for beginners using 2 stitch variations. It is sized for youth with an option for an adult.

hashtaghatLoom:  All-n-One Loom, set up for double knit

Yarn:  Patons Shetland Chunky, 25% Wool and 75% Acrylic, 148 yds per skein

Colors used:  #78209 Soft Teal (1 skein) and #78042 Charcoal (1/2 skein)

Stitches:  Stockinette and Rib

Notions Needed:  Knit Hook, crochet hook, measure tape, scissors, darning needle

Finished Size:  Youth=20” and Adult=23-24” head circumference, aprox 9” high from brim to pompom

Gauge:  5 stitches and 10 rows= (2) inches in stockinette

Special Note:  Using the full width of this loom makes a youth/small size hat.  To knit a larger hat as in our sample, we have added a small back panel to increase the width.  Using a larger loom ie the 28” loom will result in larger gauge and larger stitches which will change the shape slightly of the ‘hashtag’.

Instructions:hashtag.angle

Hat Front with ‘hashtag’:

Cast On all pegs or 48 stitches in Rib Stitch using Teal Yarn.  Lay anchor yarn of contrast color yarn.

Work (2) rows in Rib stitch.

Tie on color 2 Charcoal at 2nd peg.  Do not cut the Teal yarn.

Work (1) row in Rib stitch with Charcoal yarn.  Cut and knot.

Work (1) additional row in Rib with Teal yarn.

Change to stockinette and work (2) rows.

Hints:  Mark the center of the loom with a stitch marker or pin.  Next row will be row 1 of the bottom of ‘hashtag’.  Whenever you are working the Charcoal for just the 2 stitches of each upright, weave the 2 consecutive pegs front to back and move over to 2nd upright and weave the 2 consecutive pegs front to back.  Then, weave the Teal yarn in Stockinette weave skipping the upright pegs.  When, you are working the long rows of charcoal, weave the stitches in stockinette, and then weave the Teal yarn in Stockinette weave skipping the charcoal stitches.  Notice in your graph that the uprights will shift over by (1) stitch to give the design an angled look.

Go to center of loom, count back (4) stitches and tie on the Charcoal yarn.  Work the (4) upright stitches.  Note that there will be 3 pegs skipped in center of them.  Lay the charcoal yarn down where you end.  It doesn’t matter which direction you do the front to back for the 2 uprights.  Weave the row with the Teal yarn and hook over.  The ‘hashtag’ design consists of a total of (15) rows.  Once complete, you can cut and knot the Charcoal yarn.  Hat will be completed in Teal Yarn.

Work (7) additional rows in Stockinette.

Change to Rib stitch.  Work total of (14) Rib rows to top of hat.

Work Decrease row on row #6 and row #10.

Decrease Row explained:  decreasing some stitches at top part of the hat will add some shape to the head and keep the top of the hat from being too ‘bunchy’ or bulky.  So, we will do a decrease to 2 stitches on each side of the design.  That will take out a total of 4 stitches on each decrease row and make the top of hat fit much better.  Before doing the weaving and hook- over, go to stitch #8 from left side.  Lift the stitch and place it on peg #9.  Go to stitch #12 from left side.  Lift the stitch and place it on peg #13.  Now you have 2 empty pegs.  Go to right side of loom and count over to peg #8 and place this stitch on adjacent peg to left.  Count over to peg #12 and place this stitch on adjacent peg to left.  Do this to both sides of the board directly across from each other.  You now have (4) empty pegs on each board.  Carefully, lift the stitches and move towards the center of loom.  You want the empties to be at ends of loom.   Now, weave and hook over the row carefully lifting all loops on each peg so that only the one loop remains on the pegs.  Continue working in Rib stitch.

Repeat this decrease process on row #10.  Complete the hat with Rib stitch.

Removing the hat from loom:  Since we are at the top of the hat, we want to create another anchor yarn to gather the top of hat.  Do not bind off.  Instead, cut and knot the working yarn.  Cut another piece of the working yarn about 24” long and thread onto the darning needle.  Pick up the stitches working from one board to the other and allow the stitches to come off the loom onto the yarn.

Small – youth size finishing:  Sew the back seam using invisible stitch with matching yarn, Teal.  Bind off the brim edge stitches.  Gather the top of hat by pulling the yarn securely and tying a secure knot.  Hat is ready for a fun pompom.

Large adult.  In order to add more width to back of hat, we knit a matching piece that will be seamed into the side edges of the hat front.

Cast On 10 stitches in Rib stitch. (More if you want a larger than large hat)  Our 10 sts will add 4” to the size of the hat.  Work this small piece just as you did the hat front only no design is needed and no decreases are needed.  Do work the matching stripe on row 3 to match the front of hat.

Once complete and free of the loom, seam to the hat front using invisible stitch on both sides connecting the 2 pieces into one round hat.  If you use the invisible stitch for the seaming, the seams will not show.  Just be sure to match the Charcoal stripe exactly.  Now, gather each section with the anchor yarns at top of hat.  Tie the yarn securely.

Now you can bind off in one continuous yarn at brim.  Either size, you are ready for the pompom.  We have used both yarns for the pompom in the sample, but you can choose to make it all one color, if desired.  Wrap the yarns around a box or anything that will give you approximately 5” long strands.  Wrap 20-30 wraps; tie in center very securely.   Cut the loops and shake the pompom loose.  Use the yarn tie of the pompom to secure to top of hat.  To finish the hat, use the crochet hook to tuck in any yarn tails that remain from the seaming and knotting.  Shape the pompom as short or as shaggy as desired.  In our sample, we trimmed it up a bit, but left it fairly long.

For a complete look, make a matching Hashtag Scarf. Very cute!

 

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Oct 13, 2014

Whimsical Loom Knits – October 2014

Happy October!  In my little corner of the world, the air has grown chilly, darkness comes earlier, and there are Halloween decorations popping up everywhere.  I thought it would be fun to make a few little ‘spooks’ for this month’s Whimsical Loom Knit project.  I hope you have tons of fun with this pattern.  

Mini Monsters!

IMG_2754 (585x800)

 If you go out on Halloween night,

You’d better not go alone!

It’s creepy out there on Halloween night,

But spookier still at home!

For every little monster that ever was

Will prank and haunt you tonight, because

This is the night to knit up a scary delight!

 

 

Materials

Knitting Loom:  KB Sock Loom 2

Yarn:  Approximately 15-20 yards of a basic worsted weight yarn.  Red Heart Super Saver was used in the samples.

Notions:  Knitting tool, scissors, yarn needle, fiberfill for stuffing

Suggested Embellishments: 

Eyes:  Tiny buttons (6mm), google eyes, fabric paint, yarn, thread, etc.

Mouth:  Yarn, thread, fabric paint, etc.

Hair:  Yarn, felt, etc.

Finished Size:  Approximately 5” in height

Gauge:  Not essential for this project.

Special Techniques

Drawstring Cast-On:  Step 1: Pass the working yarn in front of peg 1.  Pass the working yarn behind peg 2.  Pass the working yarn in front of peg 3.  Pass the working yarn behind peg 4.  Continue weaving the working yarn in front of and behind the pegs until the working yarn reaches peg 1 again.

Step 2:  Lay the working yarn against peg 1, above the wrap from step 1.  Knit the lower wrap over the top wrap.  Pass the working yarn in front of peg 2.  Lay the working yarn against peg 3, above the wrap from step 1.  Knit the lower wrap over the top wrap.  Pass the working yarn in front of peg 4.  Continue working in this manner until the working yarn reaches peg 1 again.  Cast on is now complete.  Continue on as directed in the pattern.

Adding a Gathering Thread:  Cut a 12” length of yarn and thread it on to the yarn needle.  Push the yarn needle up under the stitch on peg 1.  Pull the length of yarn out through the stitch, stopping when an inch or two remains at the bottom of the stitch. Move to the next peg and pull the yarn needle up under the stitch.  Pull the length of yarn until all of the slack is gone between the two pegs.  Continue working in this manner until the gathering line has been pulled up under the last stitch in the round. Remove the yarn needle.  Leave the gathering line in place.  It will be used later to shape the monster’s neck.  Continue on as directed in the pattern.

3 Stitch I-Cord:  Using the double E-wrap cast-on method, cast on 3 stitches.  *Working yarn will be at peg 3.  Take the working yarn behind peg 2 and peg 1.  Bring the working yarn around the front of peg 1 and lay it across pegs 1, 2, and 3.  Knit peg 2, then peg 1, then peg 3.  Repeat from * as directed in pattern, or until I-cord reaches the desired length.  Gently pull on the cord every few inches to help set the stitches.

Bind the I-cord off by moving the stitch on the second peg over to the first peg, placing it above the stitch on the peg.  Knit the bottom stich over the top stitch.  Move the stitch from peg 3 over to peg 1, placing it above the stitch on the peg.  Knit the bottom stitch over the top stitch. With the working yarn, wrap peg 1 and knit it.  Cut the working yarn, leaving a yarn tail measuring about 4”.  Draw the working yarn out through the last stitch remaining on peg 1, and gently pull on the yarn tail to secure the bind off.  Weave in all yarn ends.

Instructions

Head and Body:

Prepare the loom to work over 18 pegs, in the round.  Choose a yarn color for the head.  Using the drawstring cast-on method, cast on 18 stitches.  Work 10 rows using the u-wrap knit stitch.

Add a gathering thread.  (See special techniques)

If desired, switch to a new color for the body.   Work 15 more rows using the u-wrap knit stitch.  Remove from the loom using the gathered bind off method, but do not gather yet.  Set aside.

 Limbs (Make 4, or more):

Using the same color that the body was worked in, cast on 3 pegs.  Work a 3 stitch I-cord for 6 rows.  Switch to chosen head color, if desired.  Work 3 stitch I-cord for 4 more rows.  Bind off and set aside.  Repeat this process for the remaining limbs.

Finishing:

Work with the head and body piece first.  Gather the top of the head closed by pulling on the yarn tail from the drawstring cast-on.  Use the yarn needle to weave the tail in.

Stuff the head section with fiberfill.  Gather the neck area by pulling on the yarn tails of the gathering thread.  Secure the neck shaping by tying a knot in the gathering thread.  Use the yarn needle to weave in the ends of the gathering thread.

Stuff the body section with fiberfill.  Gather the body closed by pulling on the yarn tail from the gathered bind off.  Use the yarn needle to weave the tail in.

Use the yarn needle to sew the limbs to the body.  Attach the arms near the neckline; attach the legs at the bottom of the body.  Weave in any remaining yarn tails.

Now for the best part – embellishing!  Give your monster(s) hair.  Or horns.  Eye(s).  Mouth.  Fangs.  Scars.  Whatever your imagination can scare up.  Only, maybe avoid giving them a laboratory brain marked A B Normal…

Tip:  Each monster is knit as directed in the pattern.  Different looks can be achieved by varying the colors and types of fibers used while knitting, as well as using a variety of embellishments.  Let your creativity run wild!

IMG_2759 (600x800)

Frankenstein is embellished with button eyes. Mouth and scar are embroidered on. Hair is added a strand at a time. It is tied into the top of the head, the plies are split, then the hair is mussed up a bit.

IMG_2757

Voodoo doll is embellished with one button eye and a button heart. Mouth and second ‘eye’ are embroidered on. He is also brushed with dark eye shadow to give him a dirty appearance.

IMG_2758 (600x800)

Monster is knit in a strand of basic worsted weight acrylic, along with a thin, fuzzy novelty fiber to give him a furry look. He is embellished with one googly eye, backed by a slightly larger felt circle.

            

3 Comments

  • I think these are the sweetest spooks ever! You’ve really come up with some darling gouls for us to loom knit, Jenny! Spooktacular job!!! :D

  • Love!!!

  • Thank you, Bethany and Dale!

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Sep 27, 2014

Ameline Shawl

Amelina600

We close the month of Shawl-September with Ameline, a simple lace pattern that spreads throughout the shawl to resemble cascading drops. We hope you have enjoyed the shawls during our first Shawl-September.

Knitting loom: All-n-One Knitting Loom

Yarn: 620-900 yards of light worsted weight merino wool. Malabrigo Rastita in Dewberry was used in sample.

Notions: knitting tool, row counter (optional), tapestry needle, eight stitch/peg markers.

Gauge: 16 sts x 18 rows= 2 inches in stitch pattern, blocked.

Size: 16 inches x 36 inches

Abbreviations

K: knit stitch

P: purl stitch

Sl1: slip 1-skip one peg with yarn behind the peg.

Rep: repeat

K2tog: knit two stitches together. Over two pegs, working on the knitting loom from a right to left direction—peg 1 is on the right, peg 2 is on the left.  Move stitch from peg 1 to peg 2. Leave peg 1 empty. Treat both loops on peg 2 as one loop.

YO: yarn over (ewrap peg)—special note: on the following row after creating the YO, undo the ewrap on the peg and simply lay the yarn in front of the peg.

Sl1-k1-psso: slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over. Over two pegs, working on the knitting loom from a right to left direction—peg 1 is on the right, peg 2 is on the left. Skip peg 1 with yarn behind the peg, knit peg 2. Move loop from peg 2 over to peg 1, lift bottommost loop off peg 1.

Zig Zag Stitch Pattern
Multiple of 6+1

Row 1, 3, 5 (from right to left direction): *sl1-k1-psso, k2, yo, k2; rep from * to last st, k1.

Row 2, 4, 6: k to the end of row.

Row 7, 9, 11: k3, *YO, k2, k2tog, k2; rep from * to last 4 sts, YO, k2, k2tog.

Row 8, 10, 12: k to the end of row.

Pattern note: the shawl pictured is 40 inches in length and used 600 yards of yarn, if you desire a longer shawl, you will need approximately 800 yards of yarn. A special note about yarn—we recommend using a wool base yarn to allow the lace to be blocked..

INSTRUCTIONSAmelina Shawl Close Up

Cast on 93 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Border rows

Row 1: k to the end of row.

Row 2: p to the end of row.

Rep last two rows four more times.

End of border rows, continue to body rows below

Tip: Place a stitch marker on pegs 1-4 and on peg 90-93. Maintain the garter stitch border on the first 4 pegs and last 4 pegs, the pegs with the stitch/peg markers on them.

Row 1: k4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 1, k4.

Row 2: p4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 2, p4.

Row 3: k4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 3, k4.

Row 4: p4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 4, p4.

Row 5: k4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 5, k4.

Row 6: p4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 6, p4.

Row 7: k4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 7, k4.

Row 8: p4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 8, p4.

Row 9: k4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 9, k4.

Row 10: p4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 10, p4.

Row 11: k4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 11, k4.

Row 12: p4, on next 85 sts follow the Zig Zag Stitch pattern Row 12, p4.

Rep last 12 rows until item measures approx 34 inches from cast on edge (or desired length of shawl).

Next 10 rows: repeat the 10 border rows.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave ends in. Steam block or wet block to desired measurements—blocking the item will allow the eyelets formed by the yarn overs to open up more. Tip: When blocking, use blocking wires to have straight edges.

 

8 Comments

  • can i ask a question about the ameline shawl pattern regarding the pattern rows 1, and 7 and will i receive a response. please let me know and then i will do so. thanks, debra

  • If the answer is within our knowledge, yes, if not, we will direct you where you could find the answer.

  • onr row 1 : slip peg 1, knit peg 2, move loop 2 on peg 1, k over, move loop on peg 3 to peg 2, move loop on peg 4 to 3, k2, yo k2 and repeat. is my interpretation correct?
    do u use regular knit stitch and not ewrap or ustitch.
    on row 3 i’m totally confused if i move loops to left to get empty peg and then have 2 loops on pegs. do i have to start at the end and adjust loops? can u please explain. thanks very much, debra

  • i think i’ve got it. row 3: move loop from peg 6 to 7, 5 to 6 and 4 to 5. yo peg 4 knit peg 5 and 6 and knit peg 7 which has two loops, k2 and then repeat. is this correct? thanks, debra

  • Debra,
    Row 1, 3 and 5: Work the 4 garter stitch edge stitches, then commence the Zig Zag stitch pattern as follows:
    Step 1: Skip peg 1 with yarn behind the peg.
    Step 2: knit peg 2.
    Step 3: move loop from peg 2 over to peg 1.
    Step 4: Lift bottommost loop off peg 1.
    Step 5: Move loops as follows: from 3 to 2, from 4 to 3. 4 is empty.
    Step 6: knit peg 2 and 3.
    Step 7: YO on peg 4.
    Step 8: knit peg 5 and 6.

    Let me know if the above helps, it is over 6 pegs. The last rep of the shawl, will have the 6 stitches, plus one more stitch.

  • Thank you so much! I love your patterns and have bought quite a few over the years!

  • thanks isela for the detail description. another quick question. do you suggest regular knit stitch or can i use ewrap or uknit. thanks, debra

  • True knit stitch.

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Sep 23, 2014

Yarn Yammer: A Few of my Favorite Yarns

 

When I was asked to do a yarn review column I was excited! After all I have loved yarn since even before I was a knitter! When I was little I love to get my hands on the stuff and just play. I made little yarn dolls, sewed with it, glued it on stuff and just about anything I could imagine up! So now here is my chance to play with some yarn again, and tell you all about it.

I thought I would start out with a few of my favorite ‘go to’ yarns. These are the ones I love to use and I know will work well on looms and needles.

encore colorspun

Plymouth Encore is one of my first choices when I do a project. Encore comes in a variety of yarn weights from DK up to super bulky and since it is a 75% acrylic, and wool blend it is machine washable and dryable while still being able to be blocked nicely to define your stitch patterns.

The worsted weights come in 128 solid colors and 64 ‘colorspun’ options which is a color changing yarn that coordinates very well with the solids. Plymouth Encore also comes in a center pull ball so there is not winding necessary!

The only downside to this yarn is that it is only available through local yarn shops or online, not at larger stores like Joann Fabrics or Michaels.

 

 

My other go to worsted weight yarn is Patons Classic wool. This is an 100% wool yarn which means you will need to hand wash it, but also means it will block beautifully! Being a wool yarn, it will also have some more give to it, so it is really ideal for stitch patterns that require you to manipulate the yarn a bit like lace and cables, the more stretch a yarn has, the less likely you are to break, or pull out a peg when you are looming. It is not the softest yarn, but it is soft enough for next to the skin wear, and will keep you cozy and warm.

 

lornashepherd

For socks I have two favorites! The first is Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock yarn. I have to admit, that I have a bit of a loyalty to Lorna’s Laces due to the yarn’s namesake being the one who launched me on my book writing career. That said the yarn is wonderful! It is soft, 100% super-wash merino; which means it’s machine washable and durable. This yarn comes in a variety of solids and multi-colors that are all beautiful. I have gotten more complements on the colors of my knits when using this yarn, than any other. There are two downsides to this yarn first it is available through local yarn shops and online. Second, it comes in skeins, so you will need to wind it up into a ball or yarn cake before you start knitting!

My second choice for go to sock yarn is Patons Kroy Sock yarn. This yarn is a 75% woo 25% acrylic blend. I have found it to be very durable, and the colors are lovely too! I have made socks for my little boys with this yarn, and they grew out of them before the socks wore out!

Kroy Sock is available at Joann fabrics, and comes in a center pull ball, so not winding here! It is machine washable and dryable as well, so all in all there are no downsides to it!

 

 malabrigolace

For lace hands down the race goes to team Uruguay! (These yarns make me want to visit my brother who lives there all the more!)  Manos Del Uruguay and Malabrigo are my picks!

Manos del Uruguay lace is a 70% Baby Alpaca, 25% Silk, 5% Cashmere blend, giving it softness, warmth and strength that has no match!

Malabrigo lace is 100% Baby Merino wool, which is soft and strong and makes the hand dyed colors pop out in bold vibrant shades.

Both of these yarns come in skeins, so you will need to wind them up. They are a bit pricey, but worth EVERY penny! They also only usually can be found in local yarn shops and online.

Both have a range of beautiful hand dyed colors. They are both companies that help local artisans, look for ways to be ecologically responsible in their manufacturing processes, and love independent designers. All pluses in my book!

Well, those are some of my top pick go to yarns, I hope you get to play with some of them yourself. Leave me a comment, and let me know what your go to yarns are, I would love to know!

I also look forward to playing with some more yarns and letting you know all about them! Until next time, keep knitting, and remember.. if you mess up, it’s only yarn, you can unravel it and try again!

 

3 Comments

  • Mmmm…yummy yarns! :D I love them all, but have to say that Plymouth Encore is also one of my own favorite go-to yarns…perfect for just about anything worsted or chunky and has really great “bounce”.

    Looking forward to hearing about more yarns from you, Denise! :)

  • My most favorite go to yarn is from Knit Picks. I love their 100% wool and wool blends. They work great on the loom and hand knitting. Red Heart is always in my stash for a quick go to for scarves, hats and other projects. Others I enjoy working with are Bernat, Caron, Lion Brand, Deborah Norville. I have used so many brands, it is hard to pick just one, but top pick has to go to yarns from the Knit Pick Co. They are my favorite go to place.

    Sue Kreitzer

  • Nice feature, Denise! I fear my fiber wishlist will grow exponentially with each article you write…

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Sep 8, 2014

Whimsical Loom Knits – September 2014

Hello! My name is Jenny Stark.  I am so excited to be joining you here at Knitting Board Chat!  Once a month, I will be sharing a whimsical little project that you can make with your KB looms.  These projects will be fast and fun – perfect for squeezing in to your busy schedule.  After all, you know what they say about all work and no play…  So, let’s chase those doldrums away with a little bit of yarn!

Layered Loopy Flower

This darling little flower is a great way to use up little bits of yarn left over from other projects.  Make a handful of flowers and use them to embellish hats, bags, hair clips, cards, etc.

IMG_2661 (1024x768)

Loom:  Kb Hat Loom, set up for small gauge.  (This project only requires 2 pegs- one of the 9 peg rails was used for the samples.)

Yarn:  Approximately 5 yards of a #4 yarn.  Each layer of this flower uses about 2.5 yards of yarn.  Work it all in one color, or use two different colors for variety.  Samples use various yarns, including Mosaic by Bernat, Boutique Unforgettable by Red Heart, and Sheep(ish) by Caron.

Notions:  Knitting tool, scissors, yarn needle, button, needle and thread.

Gauge:  Not important for this project.

Size:  About 2″ in diameter.

Instructions

Flower (make 2)

Cast on 2 pegs.

Knit peg 2, twelve times.

Move the stitch on peg 2 over to peg 1.  Knit the bottom stitch over.  (1st petal loop now created)

*Cast a new stitch on to peg 2.

Knit peg 2, twelve times.

Move the stitch on peg 2 over to peg 1.  Knit the bottom stitch over.  (next petal loop now created)

Repeat from * until there are six petals total.

Bind off:  Cut yarn, leaving a 5″ yarn tail.  Knit the last stitch and pull the yarn tail out through the last stitch.  Gently pull on the yarn tail to tighten the bind off.

Forming the flower:  Your knitted piece will be a bit of a jumble when you first take it off of the loom:

IMG_2665 (800x600)

Turn it over, and straighten it out.

IMG_2666 (800x600)

Now it is time for a little needle magic.  Thread the yarn tail from the bind off side through the eye of your yarn needle.  Pass the needle through the bottom of the first petal (where the cast on tail is):

IMG_2667 (800x600)

then pass the needle down through the two loops at the bottom of the next petal:

IMG_2669 (726x800)

Continue to stitch down through the two loops at the bottom of each petal, gently gathering the center of the flower as you work.  When you are finished forming the flower, pass the needle through the center of the flower to the back side.  Your finished flower will look like this:

IMG_2670 (800x600)

Set the first flower aside and make the second flower.

Finishing: Stack one flower on top of the other.  Use the yarn tails to sew the top flower to the bottom flower.  Weave in all ends.

Using the needle and thread, sew a button to the center of the flower. (If preferred, the button can be applied with hot glue.)  

Now – go and make a handful of flowers!  Happy embellishing!

IMG_2672 (800x600)

5 Comments

  • That makes a very sweet flower. Thanks for sharing your creativity.

  • I love it! Such a cute embellishment for any kind of project…or just as a pin or a hair band! I’m so glad we’ll be hearing regularly from such a talented loomer! :)

  • oh i love it….thanks for sharing :)

    Love the last line ‘Now – go and make a handful of flowers!’ :D

  • Anything with the word Whimsical hooks me in… As always Jenny – Lovin it :)
    denise

  • Thanks to each of you for your kind comments. Have a great day!

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Sep 6, 2014

Meadowbrook Shawl

Meadowbrook2600

During the month of September, we will be bringing you Shawl September, four beautiful Shawl designs, released every Friday. We will start the month with Meadowbrook, a lovely lacey shawl with a simple lace design through out the shawl. It is rectangular in shape making it versatile as a shawl, or a scarf, or if you seam both ends together a cowl.

Knitting loom: All-n-One Knitting loom; pattern uses 93 pegs.

Yarn: Approx 750 yds of Malabrigo Silky Merino wool. Sample was knit using  color Manzanilla Olive

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle (to weave ends in).

Gauge: Approx 10sts x 18 rows= 2 inches

Size: Approx 18″ wide x 74″ Wet Blocked.

Meadowbrook3600

Abbreviations:

K=knit stitch.

P=purl stitch.

K2tog=knit two stitches together as one stitch.

YO=Yarn over.

Ssk=knit two stitches together as one stitch.

CDC=Central double decrease.

sts=stitches.

Instructional How To:

K2tog: A knit two together–takes place over 2 stitches. The decrease slants to the right.  Peg 1 is on the right, Peg 2 is on the left. The knitter is going on a Right to Left direction on the loom. Move the loop from peg 1 over to peg 2. Peg 1 is empty (open), Peg 2 has two loops on it. When you reach peg 2, work both loops on the peg as one loop.

SSK: A slip, slip, knit–takes place over 2 stitches. The decrease slants to the left. Peg 1 is on the right, peg 2 is on the left. The knitter is going on a Right to Left direction on the loom. Move the loop from peg 2 over to peg 1. Peg 1 has two loops , peg 2 is empty (open). When you reach peg 1, work both loops on the peg as one loop.

YO:Yarn over, also known as Yarn Forward. Ewrap the peg in a counterclockwise direction. On the following row when you reach the peg and  you need to knit the peg, undo the ewrap and place the strand of yarn in front of the peg and treat the strand as the loop on the peg.

Central double decrease:  Takes place over 3 pegs. Peg 1 is on the right, peg 2 is in the middle, peg 3 is on the left. The knitter isMeadowbrook1600 going on a Right to Left direction on the loom. Move the loop from peg 2 over to peg 1. Move loop from peg 3 over to peg 2. Take yarn behind peg 1. Knit peg 2. Move the loop from peg 2 over to peg 1. Lift the bottommost 2 loops up and off the peg. Move the remaining loop back to peg 2. Peg 1 and peg 3 are empty.

INSTRUCTIONS

 

Cast on 93 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Edge rows

Row 1, 3, 5, 7 (right to left row): k to the end of row.

Row 2, 4, 6, 8: p to the end of row.

Main Body

Next 10 rows: Maintain the garter stitch pattern over the first 4 sts and last 4 sts of the row. Center 85 sts, work in the horseshoe stitch pattern from chart below (multiple of 12+13).

Repeat last 10 rows: 45 more times

End of Main Body

Edge rows

Next 8 rows: work in garter stitch (total of 4 garter stitch ridges).

Bind off. Weave ends in. Wet block to measurements.

 

Meadowbrook-chart

Divider

Need a little extra help with the lace stitch pattern? We have broken down below Row 1 of the lace stitch pattern for you.

Recommendations: move the stitches before working the row.

How to:

Knit pegs 1 to 4. (Garter stitch on edge stitches).

The first two pegs of lace portion shown in the chart (pegs 5 and 6 on your loom), on every other row (every odd row), you will do a k2tog. As follows:

Step 1: Lift loop from peg 1 and hold it.

Step 2: Move loop from peg 2 over to peg 1.

Step 3: Place the loop from step 1 back on peg 1.

Step 4: knit peg 1, treating both loops as one loop.

The following portion of the instructions are the part that you will repeat until you reach the last 12 pegs of the shawl stitches (not counting the 4 edge stitches); the original chart shows it inside the blocked out square. 

Mark the next 12 pegs as follows (peg 1 should be on your right side, then count 12 pegs to the left) Number 1 is in red as it is the edge stitch that you already created above, so we are not going to count it

13, 12, 11, 10,9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1.

Instead, we are going to renumber them as follows:

12, 11, 10,9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1, 1.

Notice how we have two number 1s, one is for the edge stitch (the k2tog you created above) and the other is for the lace stitch pattern repeat. Ignore the one in red for the rest of the row instructions.

Lace repeat section

**Step 1: Move loops from peg 2 to 1, from 3 to 2, from 4 to 3, from 5 to 4. Leave peg 5 open (with no loop).

Step 2: Knit peg 1 to 4

Step 3: YO (ewrap) peg 5.

Step 4: knit peg 6.

Step 5: Do a YO on peg 6—the ewrap will be on top of the loop that is on the peg.

Step 6: Knit from peg 7 to peg 10.

Step 7: move loop from peg 12 over to peg 11.

Step 8: move loop from peg 1 (from the next block of lace) over to peg 12.

Step 9: knit peg 12.

Step 10: move loop from peg 12 to peg 11. Lift bottommost two loops up and off the peg.

Step 11: move the loop remaining on peg 11 over to peg 12. (At this point, you should have peg 1 and 11 open (empty).

Step 12: move loops as follows: from peg 10 to 11, from 9 to 10, from 8 to 9, from 7 to 8, and lastly, move the ewrap that is on top of peg 6 over to peg 7.

Repeat from **Step 1, until the last 16 pegs (until you reach peg 77 on the knitting loom).

From peg 79-89, we will work the last chart repeat as follows over 12 pegs (pegs 90-93 are the garter stitch edge stitches):

Step 1: Move loops from peg 2 to 1, from 3 to 2, from 4 to 5, from 5 to 4. Leave peg 5 open (with no loop).

Step 2: Knit peg 1 to 4

Step 3: YO (ewrap) peg 5.

Step 4: knit peg 6.

Step 5: Do a YO on peg 6—the ewrap will be on top of the loop that is on the peg.

Step 6: Knit from peg 7 to peg 10.

Step 7: Move loop from 12 to 11.

Step 8: Knit peg 11.

Step 9: Move loop from 11 to 12; 10 to 11; 9 to 10; 8 to 9; 7 to 8, YO to peg 7.

End of lace portion

Knit the last 4 pegs for the garter stitch ridge.

Row 1 of the lace stitch pattern is complete.

Row 2: purl 4, k to last 4 sts, purl 4. 

 

19 Comments

  • IS there any way to download these pattern instructions?

  • Is there any way to download these instructions?

  • Highlight everything, copy and paste onto a word document.

  • Highlight everything, copy and paste onto a word document.

  • This is so so so stunning, Isela! I absolutely love this stitch pattern!

  • This is a beautiful shawl, Isela! Your work is always fantastic!

  • It is beautiful .I am new at looming but Ithink I will try it and hope it works wish me luck.

  • ** Beautiful work! I have a question regarding peg #3. The instructions are as follows:

    Step 1: Move loops from peg 2 to 1, from 3 to 2, from 4 to 5, from 5 to 4. Leave peg 5 open (with no loop).

    Step 2: Knit peg 1 to 4

    ** per step 1 peg #3 is left empty. Per step #2 I’m supposed to knit peg 3. So do I ewrap peg 3 so it can be knitted? Thanks :-)

  • Thank you!

  • Thank you!

  • Does K2tog and Ssk mean exactly the same thing? They both say knit two stitches together as one stitch.

  • I wish you would make a video tutorial. This is a very advanced pattern and at the risk of sounding like a dingbat, it’s just very complicated. I am a tactile learner and would very much benefit from a video showing how to do the stitches. I am new to looming and don’t even know how to read the chart above. What does each symbol represent? I have no clue.

  • Oh, duh, I now see the key at the bottom of the chart. I still would really do better with a video tutorial. Thanks!! These shawls are gorgeous!!

  • Mary, the k2tog leans to the right, the ssk leans to the left. They are done a little differently, both over two pegs, going from Right to Left, peg 1 on the right peg 2 on the left. k2tog-move the stitch from peg 1 to peg 2, knit peg 2 treating both loops as one loop. ssk-move stitch from peg 2 over to peg 1, knit peg 1 treating both loops on peg as one loop, now move the loop from peg 1 over to peg 2.

  • Is there a way to make this wider than 18″? I like this stitch pattern but would like to see if it can be made between 18 & 24 inches wide.

  • Sherry, I believe I missed a peg there–I think Step 1 should read as follows: Move loops from peg 2 to 1, from 3 to 2, from 4 to 3, from 5 to 4. Leave peg 5 open (with no loop).

  • Could you please give more details on row 7?

  • Jennifer, on Row 7 of the Meadowbrook Shawl? From the chart?

  • Yes,for the Meadowbrook Shawl, like you did for row 1. I’m sure it’s not that complicated for most, but I can’t figure out what the exact steps would be. I’m mainly unclear on the k2tog and ssk with the yo on either side. For the k2tog, the basic instructions say to move the loop from peg 1 to peg 2, but the detailed instructions for row 1 say to move the loop on peg 2 to peg 1. I realize the peg 2 loop goes under the peg 1 loop resulting in basically the same outcome, but because of the difference in the two instructions I’m not sure if, on row 7, the loop on peg 11 gets moved to peg 10 under the existing loop or if peg 10 loop gets moved to peg 11. Same with the ssk on pegs 4 & 5.

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