Browsing articles in "AllnOne Knitting Loom"
Nov 17, 2014

Loom FAQS: Which Knit Stitch??


Two questions I see often and seem to cause drama are What knit stitch do I use if the pattern doesn’t specify? and What is the difference between the different knit stitches?  But my favorite is Why are there so many knit stitches in loom knitting?  While it does seem like there are a lot of knit stitches, there are still only two.  Knit and e-wrap knit.  The confusion occurs because there are 3 ways to make a knit stitch.  And all 3 have different tensions.  So let’s discuss each one and then compare all 4 so we can put that drama to rest.

E-wrap Knit Stitch

I will start with the e-wrap knit since it is usually the first stitch a person learns when he or she picks up a loom for the first time.  E-wrap knit is the loosest knit stitch.  It is taller and uses more yarn than a true knit or purl stitch.  It is a twisted stitch so the stitch looks like a y instead of the classic v of the knit stitch.  When worked in a flat panel, the e-wrap knit gives a great texture to the project since the stitches slant in the opposite way on each row.


When worked in the round, the stitches will slant in the direction that you work.

ewrap round

You make an e-wrap knit by bringing the working yarn behind the peg, around to the front of the peg,

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and then on around to the back the peg like a cursive e.

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After the peg is wrapped, the working yarn is behind the peg again.

Then you knit over by bringing the bottom loop up and over the new loop you just made.

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Knit Stitch

The knit stitch can be produced 3 different ways, and the size of the stitch varies with one.

  • True Knit Stitch

Let’s look at the true knit stitch first.  It is also called the traditional knit stitch.  Some people call it a reverse purl even though it’s actually more accurate to call a purl a reverse knit.  It is the same height and width of a purl stitch and is best to use when working alongside purls in the rib, garter, seed, and moss stitches.

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You make a true knit stitch by bringing the working yarn above the existing loop.

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You bring your pick up through the existing loop and catch the working yarn.

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Then pull it down through the loop to create a new loop.

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You then take the old loop off the peg.

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Then place the new loop back on the peg.

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Snug up the yarn by gently tugging the working yarn.

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Why does this look just like a purl stitch?  This stitch is not to be confused with the purl.  While the motions appear to be the same, the purl is worked in reverse.  The working yarn is at the bottom of the existing loop, and the new loop is pulled up from the bottom before taking the old loop off the peg and replacing the new loop on.


  • U-wrap Knit Stitch

Next is the u-wrap knit.  It is shorter and tighter than the true knit stitch.

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You make a u-wrap knit by bringing the working yarn above the existing loop in front of the peg and pulling it straight back behind the peg without completely wrapping it.

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Then pull the bottom loop up

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and over.

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  • Flat Knit Stitch

The last way to create a knit stitch is the tightest and smallest of the knit stitches.  It is the flat knit.  It can get very tight after just a couple of rows.  Flat knit stitch works best with fibers that stretch like wool.  It is extremely hard to use the flat knit on yarn that have no stretch like cotton.

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You work the flat knit by bringing the working yarn across the front of the peg above the existing loop without any wrap of the peg.

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Then bring the existing loop up

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and over.

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I worked 4 swatches using each of the techniques mentioned.  I made all 4 with 16 pegs on the Sock Loom 2 and worked 25 rows using KnitPicks Wool of the Andes worsted weight yarn.  I worked all 4 with the chain cast on and used the basic bind off.  I also slipped the first stitch on each row.

From left to right:  e-wrap knit, true knit, u-wrap knit, and flat knit.

untitled (23)

You can see the difference in size with the e-wrap being the largest and loosest and the flat knit being the smallest and tightest.  You can also see how the chain cast on (at the top) was not tight enough as the stitches got tighter and smaller.  You will need to take your cast on into consideration with whichever knit stitch technique you use.  I controlled my tension on all the swatches by not pulling on the yarn as I worked the stitches.  Each of them could have been made tighter by simply pulling and stretching the yarn.

Here is the gauge I achieved with each swatch.  What is gauge?  Gauge is simply the number of stitches in an inch by the number of rows in an inch.  The more stitches or rows in an inch means the gauge is smaller.  The fewer stitches or rows in an inch means the gauge is larger.  Some patterns will list gauge in a 2” or 4” square.  I will discuss gauge more in next month’s article.  For this demonstration, I will list gauge per inch.

  • E-wrap knit stitch: 3.5 stitches by 5 rows per inch

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  • True knit stitch:  3.75 stitches by 5.5 rows per inch

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  • U-wrap knit stitch:  4 stitches by 6 rows per inch

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  • Flat knit stitch:  5.5 stitches by 7.5 rows per inch

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So as you can see, it makes a big difference in size depending on how the knit stitch is made.  Why can I not use e-wrap on every pattern?  Everyone’s tension is different.  If you were to make the same exact swatch I have, you most likely will have a different gauge.  Designers write their pattern for a certain look or size.  While you can interchange the knit stitch and the e-wrap knit in some patterns, most times it will change the pattern too much in size.  If using the knit stitch, you can adjust your tension by using a different knit stitch technique.  You can also adjust your tension on the flat and u-wrap knit stitches by loosening them as you work the stitches.  I loosen my u-wrap knit by simply pushing the stitch back with my pick after pulling the loop over.  But these swatches were made without loosening the stitches.  They were made as described above.

I hope this helps clarify the knit stitch dilemma and puts the drama to rest.



  • I can not believe I’m reading this today of all days!!! Made myself a pair of e-wrap mittens over the weekend and keep catching the stitches. I was just thinking this am, I wonder how many more rows and pegs I’d have to use if I use a knit stitch instead. Then I think, math, yuk!!! This will be so helpful. Renita to the rescue, again! Thanks for this article.

  • I am looking at your shawl pattern and it says to use a rib stitch. What is that?

  • Need to share with my friend who just began knitting!

  • Needed this — love the comparisons.

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Nov 14, 2014

Snowman Hat Pattern

Snowman hat final

We are bringing you a new feature to our blog! Every second Friday of the month, we will feature a design by one of our customers. We will start off this tradition with a new pattern by Kathy McGuire. Kathy created a lovely Snowman Hat that every child will love. We hope you enjoy it as much as we do. To contact Kathy, please email her at this link


Knitting loom: KB All-in-One loom set up with two sliders.

Yarn:  Approximately 50 yards each of worsted weight in red, green and white.  Approximately one yard each of black and orange.

Notions: knitting tool, row counter, crochet hook, tapestry needle and  (optional) pompom maker

Gauge: 4 stitches and  6 rows per inch in stitch pattern.


CO: cast on

EW: E wrap

P: purl stitch

St(s): stitches

Rnd(s): round

Rep: repeat

BO: Bind off

Pattern Notes:

This pattern is worked in the round.

In this pattern, after round 46, you will begin decreasing stitches to form the taper of the hat.  With each decrease, you will move the stitches on the four corners in one peg.  After moving the stitches, you will then move both sliders in one peg, in line with the pegs that have two stitches.

This pattern can will fit a toddler/young child. It can be made larger by increasing the number of pegs per side. However, if more pegs are used, be sure to use an odd number on each side and begin casting on using the middle peg. For example, the pattern as written calls for using 23 pegs per side with cast-on beginning at peg 12. If you increase to say, 25 pegs, then you would cast on starting at peg 13. Also, for every two pegs you increase, you will have one more taper to do at the top.



Set knitting loom to work 46 pegs in the round, with sliders at both ends.  Place a stitch marker on peg 12 – you will begin the CO on this peg.  This is important for the tapering to work out.

Beginning at peg 12, EW CO all 46 pegs

Rnd 1-4 : *EW using red yarn

Rnd 5-8:  Without cutting red yarn, EW using green yarn*

Rnds 9-16: Rep from * to*

Rnd 17-20: EW using red yarn.  Cut red yarn leaving about a 6″ tail

Forming the brim: bring the CO loops up through the center of loom. Lining up the loops, place one loop on each peg.  You will now have two loops on each peg.  Lift bottom loop on each peg over the top loop.

Rnd 21-34:  EW using white yarn.  Cut white yarn leaving about a 6″ tail

For the remaining Rounds, you will be knitting alternate rows of red and green.   Carry yarn to the inside of loom when not using.  Do not cut.

Rnd 35-42: Using red yarn, make four sets of garter stitch (alternating rows of EW and P).

Rnd 43-46:  EW using green yarn.  Do not cut yarn.

Rnd 47:  *Move the St(s) from each corner peg in one peg.  (For example, in this round you will move peg 1 to peg 2; peg 23 to peg 22; peg 29 to peg 30 and peg 41 to peg 40).   Move the sliders in one peg to line up with pegs that have two St(s).  EW using red yarn, turning pegs with two loops as one.

Rnd 48-50: EW using red yarn.

Rnd 51:  Move the St(s) from each corner peg in one peg and line up sliders.  EW using green yarn,  turning  pegs with two loops as one.

Rnd 52-54: EW using green yarn.*

Rnd 55-86: Rep from * to *.

Rnd 87-90: Rep Rnd(s) 47-50

Cut both yarns leaving a 12″ tail

Using both yarns held together as one, BO using drawstring bind off.  Remove hat from loom  and drop the yarn tails inside the opening at top of hat.  Turn hat inside out and close top by pulling on the yarn tails.  Cut yarn tails to about 5″.  Weave in all ends. Turn hat right side out.

Make a pom pom and attach to top of hat.

(Optional) Using a length of white yarn, make three (or more) “snowflakes” on front of snowmans “hat” (the garter ridges).

Eyes:  Make a chain of 25 stitches using black yarn and crochet hook, leaving 6″ tail at beginning and end of chain.  Coil up the chain and stitch together using the yarn tails then stitch eyes onto hat.

Nose:  Using either bulky weight or two strands held together as one of orange worsted weight, form a short i-cord using three pegs of the loom.  Bind off.  Slightly stretch the i-cord so that the bind off edge is wider than the other end and attach to hat.




  • This is sooo cute! I may even make this as a toliet tissue holder. Will look adorable in our bathroom for Christmas. Thank You.

  • Oh soo cute! Any child would love this hat. Thanks for sharing your pattern.

  • I want to make this for myself!! I have Bern wanting to make myself a snowman hat and scarf set but haven’t taken the time to do so. Now I see this one and I love it. How do I make it to fit an adult???

  • Kathy, has added a little blurb about making the hat bigger, it is in the pattern notes.

  • Thanks! I am also happy to help if you have any other questions or you need clarification on any part of the pattern.

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Nov 7, 2014

Baby Ballet Slippers




Holidays are around the corner, knit little baby ballet slippers for the precious little ones. The pattern is simple and small that you can knit a pair in one afternoon.

Pattern Information

Knitting loom: All-n-One loom, 20 pegs used. Pattern can be done on All-n-One loom, Adjustable Hat Loom, 32 Peg Loom.

Yarn: 40-50 yards of worsted weight wool. Sample was knit with Knit Picks Swish Worsted, shown in Cornmeal.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle, crochet hook size I.

Size: 3-6 months

Gauge: 9sts x 10 rows= 2 inches in garter stitch




CO=cast on


BO=Bind off


M1=make 1. A type of increase. Move the loops on the pegs to create an empty peg where you need the increase. Reach for the ladder going from one peg to the other, twist it and place this loop on the emptied peg.

k2tog=knit two stitches together. Move the stitch from the first peg over to the second peg. Treat both loops as one and knit them together.

SSK=knit two stitches together. Move the stitch from the last peg over to the peg before last. Treat both loops as one and knit them together.

Pattern notes

The pattern is worked as a flat panel then assembled into a little shoe shape.

When the pattern calls to cast on stitches at the beginning of the row, use the ewrap method to cast on the additional stitches.

Decreasing rows: simply move the loop from the outer peg to the peg next to it, example: from peg 1 to peg 2, from very last peg to the peg before last. Work both loops as one when working the stitch.

Entire pattern is worked in garter stitch (knit one row, purl one row).

The little bow string was crochet. You can substitute with a piece of ribbon.

When seaming, use the mattress stitch to seam the little slipper.

(Make 2)

Cast on 12 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1: k1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1. (14 sts).

Row 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14: p to the end.

Row 3: As row 1 (16 sts).

Row 5: As row 1 (18 sts).

Row 7: As row 1 (20 sts).

Row 9: k2tog, k to the last 2 sts, ssk (18 sts).

Row 11: as Row 9. (16 sts).

Row 13: as Row 9 (14 sts).

Row 15: as Row 9 (12 sts).

Row 16: Using the ewrap, cast on 5 stitches, p to the end of row. (17 sts).

Row 17: k1, m1, k to the end (18 sts).

Row 18: p to the end.

Row 19: k1, m1, k to the end (19 sts).

Row 20: p to the end.

Row 21: k1, m1, k to the end (20 sts).

Row 22: p to the end.

Row 23: k1, m1, k to the end (21 sts).

Row 24: Basic bind off 12 sts, p to the end of row.LittleShoes6003

Rows 25-37: cont in garter stitch.

Row 38: Cast on 12sts, p21.

Row 39: k2tog, k to the end of row (32 sts).

Row 40: p to the end of row.

Row 41: k2tog, k to the end of row (31 sts).

Row 41: p to the end of row.

Row 42: k2tog, k to the end of row (30 sts).

Row 43: p to the end of row.

Row 44: k2tog, k to the end of row (29 sts).

Basic bind off, leaving a 20 inch long tail for seaming.

Decorative Crochet Ribbon

Using crochet hook and contrasting color yarn, chain 65. Bind off.


Using the mattress stitch, seam the side of the upper to the sole area. Mattress stitch the heel area last. Weave ends in.

Steam block gently.

Pass crocheted chain through the edge stitches on each slipper, arrange the ends of the chain so that they are to the side of each slipper. Make a little bow. Secure the little bow in place with matching thread and needle.





  • These are so absolutely precious! :D

  • Super sweet baby slippers!

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Nov 3, 2014

Stitchology III

 Chain Lace Stitch worked as a Flat Panel

CLS Square

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)

This month we’re going to get your fingers flying with a stitch that lends itself perfectly for holiday gifts!  You may have already heard of the Chain Lace Stitch, which I developed way back in the spring of 2012 as an introductory cowl pattern for the KB All-n-One Loom.  Since that time, I’ve received several requests to demonstrate how to work the stitch as a flat panel, rather than in the round.  I thought this month would be the perfect time to do this, as the Chain Lace Stitch would make a simply gorgeous scarf for holiday gift giving!  The pattern below is for our customary 8” x 8” square, but you can easily modify the pattern for creating pieces of a larger size.  Let the holiday looming commence! :D


Chain Lace Stitch worked as a Flat Panel

CLS close up

Items Needed:

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 55 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Patons Classic Wool Worsted in Jade Heather)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter)

Pattern Notes:

This stitch has also been worked in the round to great effect!  You can find two of these projects in the All-n-One Pattern Book: the Daytimer Bag and the Market Hat (as a way to weave the belt around the brim). To work this pattern in the round for a cowl, bag, or hat, see the video here.

For flat pieces of a longer size, begin with the Set Up Rows (working more as necessary for a wider border), then simply increase the number of Main Pattern Rows for the length desired. You will also want to match the final rows to the number of Set Up Rows.

This pattern is worked with CLS sections worked over 4 peg repeats, with border sections of 4 pegs on either side. For creating a flat piece of a wider size, increase the CLS section by increments of 4, and the border sections as desired.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

You may notice that the number of vertical border rows are greater than the number of stitches required to make the chains.  This is intentional.  The bordering garter stitch has a smaller gauge than the e-wrapped chain. The differing number of rows and chain stitches make for an even height in both.

Pattern Abbreviations:

Abbreviation Key

Grab your easy chair and a cuppa’ your favorite brew and we’ll go over, step-by-step, how to create the Chain Lace Stitch as a Flat Panel in this brand new Tutorial Video: (*See below for pattern’s complete written instructions)

Repeating Pattern Rows

There are two separate pattern rows which will be repeated throughout the Main Pattern Rows of the stitch. They are as follows:

CLS close up lgCLS Row One (peg #’s are for CLS section, not for peg #’s in actual pattern row)

* Peg 1:  move loop to peg 2, EW around peg 5 times (DO NOT KO!)

Peg 2:  EW once, KO 2 loops over 1. Move the top EW from peg 1 to peg 2 and KO. Repeat process to KO all 5 EW’s from peg 1.  Peg 1 will now be empty.

Peg 3:  move loop to peg 4

Peg 4:  EW and KO 2 loops over 1.  EW and KO 5 more times to create a chain.

Repeat from * until the end of the CLS section, or until pattern states.

CLS Row Two (peg #’s are for CLS section, not for peg #’s in actual pattern row)

* Peg 1: move loop to peg 2

Peg 2: EW and KO 2 loops over 1.  EW and KO 5 more times to create a chain.

Peg 3: move loop to peg 4, EW around peg 5 times (DO NOT KO!)

Peg 4: EW once, KO 2 loops over 1. Move the top EW from peg 3 to peg 4 and KO. Repeat process to KO all 5 EW’s from peg 3.  Peg 3 will now be empty.

Repeat from * until the end of the CLS section, or until pattern states.

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from right to left, using a total of 28 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Repeat the following 2 row pattern 3 times, for a total of 6 rows:

Row a: k28

Row b: p28

Main Pattern Rows

CLS front angle

Repeat the following 16 row pattern 2 times, for a total of 38 rows for your square (Some of these rows will require several steps to complete one row.):

Row 1:

  • -Pegs 1-4: You will be creating a flat panel using only these 4 pegs for 9 rows. Repeat the following 2 row pattern, ending with Row a, and at peg 4:

Row a: k4

Row b: p4,

  • -Work CLS Row One of Repeating Pattern Rows to peg 24,
  • -Move peg 24’s loop to peg 23,
  • -EW peg 24 5 times,
  • -Knit pegs 25-28,
  • -* Purl pegs 28-25,
  • -Add top wrap from peg 24 to peg 25, and KO 2 loops over 1,
  • -Knit pegs 26-28,
  • -Repeat from * of Row 1 three times, for a total of 9 rows on pegs 25-28.

Row 2:

  • -Purl pegs 28-22,
  • -* Lift connecting line to the front of peg 21 and purl,
  • -Purl peg 20,
  • -HHCO peg 19,
  • -Purl peg 18,
  • -Repeat from * of Row 2 to peg 5,
  • -Purl pegs 4-1.

Row 3:  k28

Row 4:  p28

Row 5:

  • -Pegs 1-4: You will be creating a flat panel using only these 4 pegs for 9 rows. Repeat the following 2 row pattern, ending with Row a, and at peg 4:

Row a: k4

Row b: p4,

  • -Move loop from peg 4 to peg 3,
  • -EW peg 4 5 times.
  • -EW peg 5 and KO,
  • -Move the top EW from peg 4 to peg 5 and KO. Repeat process to KO all 5 EW’s from peg 4.  Peg 4 will now be empty,
  • -Move top loop from peg 3 back to peg 4,
  • -CLS Row Two of Repeating Pattern Rows to peg 23,
  • -Move the loop from peg 24 to peg 25
  • -EW  peg 24 5 times,
  • -KO 2 loops over 1 on peg 25,
  • -Knit pegs 26-28,
  • -*Purl pegs 28-25,
  • -Add top wrap from peg 24 to peg 25, and KO 2 loops over 1,
  • -Knit pegs 26-28,
  • -Repeat from * of Row 5 three times, for a total of 9 rows on pegs 25-28.

CLS angleRow 6:

  • -Purl pegs 28-23,
  • -* HHCO to peg 22,
  • -Purl peg 21,
  • -* Lift connecting line to the front of peg 20 and purl,
  • -Purl peg 19,
  • -Repeat from * of Row 2 to peg 5,
  • -Purl pegs 4-1.

Rows 7-10:  Repeat Rows 3 & 4, then 1 & 2 of Main Pattern Rows.

Rows 11-16: Repeat the following 2 row pattern:

Row a: k28

Row b: p28

Repeat the previous 16 row pattern once more to complete the square.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

1 Comment

  • Beautiful work, Bethany!

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Oct 27, 2014

Loom FAQs – How Do I Read a Pattern?


Another question that is often asked is “how do I read a pattern?”  Most times, it’s not even a question.  People will flat out say they don’t know how to read a pattern.  Or that patterns are too hard to read.  Some will even say they don’t care to learn when there are videos to watch.  Well I will say this:  If you don’t learn at least the basics of reading patterns, then you are limiting yourself to what you can make since not all patterns have videos.  So today I would like to address some of those Frequently Asked Questions in regards to reading a pattern.

Where do I start when I am reading a pattern?

I always recommend to start by reading the pattern fully first.  See what you need and when you need it.  Most times if it’s a pattern that has new skills, it can be overwhelming to read through it first.  That is ok.  Do not panic.  It happens to the best of us.  Then you take a deep breath and proceed gathering your supplies.  Once that is done, then you start.  But before we get into starting, let’s discuss how a pattern is usually written.

Patterns can usually be broken down into 3 parts.  I will be using parts of my Paving Rainbows hat pattern for an example.  You can find the complete pattern here:


Part 1:

The first part is the list of items you need to complete the project.  This is where you will find which loom is required, yarn recommended, and other notions needed.  Patterns will list the yarn needed in number of skeins, yards, or weight.  If you are using a different yarn than the one specified and it’s listed by skeins, balls, or yardage, then you will just need to compare the yardage of the yarn you are wanting to use with the one that was used in the pattern to make sure you have enough since not all skeins or balls have the same amount of yarn in them.

The Paving Rainbow Stones Hat pattern

     Loom: All-n-One loom set for 72 pegs. Sample made on the All-n-One.

     Yarn: 1 skein Bernat Mosaic in Calypso – Color A (or any medium weight yarn color of your choice). 1 skein Red Heart Super Saver in Black – Color B (or any medium weight yarn color of your choice)

     Notions: Loom tool, Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Part 2:

The second part is the abbreviations, gauge, and pattern notes.  In stand-alone patterns available on blogs or other sites, this will follow the list of items.  If it is a pattern in a book, the abbreviations will most likely be found at the front or back of the book.  But the gauge and pattern notes, if any, will still be in this location.

What is gauge?

Gauge tells you how many stitches and rows are in a certain number of inches so you know if your tension is correct when knitting an item that needs to be a certain size.  So if it reads,

In stockinette, 20 stitches x 30 rows = 4 inches

you will take a ruler and measure your swatch or work.  If you count 20 stitches in 4 inches on a row in all knit stitches and 30 rows in 4 inches, then you have achieved gauge.

Some patterns will not have it listed if gauge is not important.  Or sometimes the designer forgot to list it.  Oops…

What are pattern notes?

Pattern notes are the special instructions or little helpful tidbits provided by the designer to help clarify how the pattern is to be worked.

      Pattern Notes

· Use only one strand of yarn.

· Carry yarn to the inside of loom when not using. Do not cut.


· K – flat or u-wrap knit

· P – purl

· S – slip (skip)

· Rnd(s) – Round(s)

Part 3:

The third part is the actual instructions.  Most times it will be written out by rows or rounds.  Some patterns may be written in steps, like I did with my corkscrew tutorial.


E-wrap cast on all pegs.

Rnds 1 – 18 – With color A, K all

Place cast on loops back on pegs, knit over

Rnd 19 – K all

Drop Color A to inside of loom. Add Color B.

Rnd 20 – With color B, K all

Rnds 21-23 – P all

Drop Color B to inside of loom. Pick up Color A.

Rnds 24-29 – With color A, K3, *S2, K6*, repeat from * to * until last 5 pegs, S2, K3

So let’s start at the beginning.  First you will cast on.

What cast on and bind off methods do I use if the pattern doesn’t specify?

In this pattern, I specify an e-wrap cast on.  But when a particular cast on or bind off isn’t specified, then you just use the one that you like best.

Then you start with the first row or round.  In this pattern, rounds 1 – 18 are all the same, so instead of writing out each round, I combined them all into one line.  So for those 18 rounds, you will knit all the pegs.

Now let’s skip to after the brim is made.  I made a note to drop the first color and add the second.  It looks a little out of place here, but there are times where the instructions are needed in the pattern as you go along which is why the instructions for the color change is between the rounds.  Sometimes the designer will write those at the end of the row or round so there is not a break like you see here.

What does it mean when it says to “repeat from *”?

Let’s now look at rounds 24 – 29.  In this pattern, I put an * at the beginning and end of the part that is to be repeated.  Sometimes it will just be at the beginning of the repeat and then say “repeat from * to the end of the row”.  But what does that line mean?  We have seen rounds that are all knits or all purls.  But now we have a mixture of stitches with repeats.

The round reads “With Color A, K3, *S2, K6* repeat from * to * until the last 5 pegs, S2, K3”.  If that were written out for all the pegs, it would read like this:

With color A, knit 3 pegs, slip 2 pegs, knit 6 pegs, slip 2 pegs, knit 6 pegs, slip 2 pegs, knit 6 pegs, etc., until only 5 pegs remain in the round.  Then slip 2 pegs and knit 3 pegs.  Then you start the next round.  Or if it was written peg by peg, it would be: knit, knit, knit, slip, slip, knit, knit, knit, knit, knit, knit, slip, slip, knit, knit, knit, knit, knit…

So you can see why the rows or rounds are condensed down into abbreviations and repeats.  Otherwise, a simple pattern would be the size of a small book.

The more complicated repeats will often involve parenthesis as well as asterisks.

So to start off when learning to read a pattern, you may want to write each row or round out so you can better understand it.

And to keep from being overwhelmed by the entire pattern, I would recommend you concentrate on one row at a time.  Just go stitch by stitch and then row by row.  If something doesn’t seem to make sense then look at the previous row and the following row.  Sometimes it will make more sense when you see what is just below or just above the row you are working.

What do the abbreviations mean?

Reading patterns is like reading code.  The reason for abbreviations is for saving space, especially in books and magazines.  Here are some of the more common abbreviations.


BO – bind off

CA – color A

CB – color B

CC – contrasting color

CO – cast on

Dec – decrease

EW – e-wrap

Inc – increase

K – knit

K2tog – knit 2 together

KO – Knit over

M1 – make 1 increase

MC – main color

P – purl

P2tog – purl 2 together

PSSO – pass slipped stitch over

Rep – repeat

Rnd (s) – rounds(s)

S or sl – slip

SSK – slip, slip, knit those 2 stitches together

W&T – wrap and turn

YO – yarn over

What knit stitch do I use if it doesn’t say?

Most times if the pattern just says knit then it is a true or traditional knit stitch.  Some people like to call it a reverse purl.  You can use the u-wrap, flat knit, or even e-wrap, if you are needing to achieve a certain gauge due to your tension.  If the pattern says “no e-wrap”, then it is not recommended to use it since it really is a different stitch entirely.  It is taller and looser and will alter the finished size.

Why are patterns not all written the same?

This is a great question.  I really don’t have a good answer to that one except to say that, while most designers try to keep uniformity to patterns so that they are easy to read, some people are beginners, want to share their designs, and just don’t know how patterns are most commonly written.  And sometimes designers will write a pattern how they like to read them.

Why can I not just use videos?

There usually are not videos for all patterns.  And people cannot randomly make videos without the designer’s permission since it violates copyright.  But when working a pattern and you come across a technique you are unfamiliar with and the written instructions for that technique are confusing, videos are very helpful, and I would recommend using them.

How do I write a pattern?

If you are writing a pattern for the first time and are unsure of what to do, look at other patterns on blogs or on Ravelry.  Then try to follow suit in whatever way makes sense to you.  Most times, our first efforts seem to fall short of our expectations.  Just take a deep breath and try your best.  We all start somewhere and learn.

I really hope this helps get you started on reading patterns.  The worst thing that could happen is that you will need to rip the project out and start over.  But it is only yarn after all.  It is designed to be taken apart and reknit.



  • Excellent post, Renita! :) I would only add to your first bit about reading the pattern through entirely first and then possibly feeling overwhelmed or confused…a lot of times the steps that are confusing at the front end make way more sense when you are actually at that section and ready to knit it. I say this as an encouragement not to give up when that original confusion hits upon the first read-through. Just dive in and have fun! :D

    Once again…fantastic advice!

  • Thank you, Bethany! That means a lot to me. While I did say that later, I realize I should have addressed it at the beginning for those who don’t read the entire article.

    Just taking it stitch by stitch and row by row often answers those confusing questions we might have after the first read through.

  • Thank you very much. This was very informative and helped to clear up a few thing for me

  • Hi Renita,
    Where was a person like you when I first started learning knitting and reading patterns soo many years ago! Very good help for beginners! Thank you for a really great article that will be a help to many! Sue

  • I am holding on to this for dear life, I am knew to knitting and loom knitting and have never tried a pattern. You give me hope! Thank you!!

  • Thank you for posting this and explaining how a pattern is read and what a K 3 means to knit 3 pegs and so on I think a lot of times I read into things to much and the answer is staring me right in my face .I over whelm myself and once I try it it’s like thee light bulb comes on ,I will just keep pratcing and will catch on the problem is I try to make things perfect and get overwhelmed when its not as hard as it really is thank you again

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Oct 17, 2014

Hashtag Hat

Have some fun and hashtag you!  Great project for beginners using 2 stitch variations. It is sized for youth with an option for an adult.

hashtaghatLoom:  All-n-One Loom, set up for double knit

Yarn:  Patons Shetland Chunky, 25% Wool and 75% Acrylic, 148 yds per skein

Colors used:  #78209 Soft Teal (1 skein) and #78042 Charcoal (1/2 skein)

Stitches:  Stockinette and Rib

Notions Needed:  Knit Hook, crochet hook, measure tape, scissors, darning needle

Finished Size:  Youth=20” and Adult=23-24” head circumference, aprox 9” high from brim to pompom

Gauge:  5 stitches and 10 rows= (2) inches in stockinette

Special Note:  Using the full width of this loom makes a youth/small size hat.  To knit a larger hat as in our sample, we have added a small back panel to increase the width.  Using a larger loom ie the 28” loom will result in larger gauge and larger stitches which will change the shape slightly of the ‘hashtag’.


Hat Front with ‘hashtag’:

Cast On all pegs or 48 stitches in Rib Stitch using Teal Yarn.  Lay anchor yarn of contrast color yarn.

Work (2) rows in Rib stitch.

Tie on color 2 Charcoal at 2nd peg.  Do not cut the Teal yarn.

Work (1) row in Rib stitch with Charcoal yarn.  Cut and knot.

Work (1) additional row in Rib with Teal yarn.

Change to stockinette and work (2) rows.

Hints:  Mark the center of the loom with a stitch marker or pin.  Next row will be row 1 of the bottom of ‘hashtag’.  Whenever you are working the Charcoal for just the 2 stitches of each upright, weave the 2 consecutive pegs front to back and move over to 2nd upright and weave the 2 consecutive pegs front to back.  Then, weave the Teal yarn in Stockinette weave skipping the upright pegs.  When, you are working the long rows of charcoal, weave the stitches in stockinette, and then weave the Teal yarn in Stockinette weave skipping the charcoal stitches.  Notice in your graph that the uprights will shift over by (1) stitch to give the design an angled look.

Go to center of loom, count back (4) stitches and tie on the Charcoal yarn.  Work the (4) upright stitches.  Note that there will be 3 pegs skipped in center of them.  Lay the charcoal yarn down where you end.  It doesn’t matter which direction you do the front to back for the 2 uprights.  Weave the row with the Teal yarn and hook over.  The ‘hashtag’ design consists of a total of (15) rows.  Once complete, you can cut and knot the Charcoal yarn.  Hat will be completed in Teal Yarn.

Work (7) additional rows in Stockinette.

Change to Rib stitch.  Work total of (14) Rib rows to top of hat.

Work Decrease row on row #6 and row #10.

Decrease Row explained:  decreasing some stitches at top part of the hat will add some shape to the head and keep the top of the hat from being too ‘bunchy’ or bulky.  So, we will do a decrease to 2 stitches on each side of the design.  That will take out a total of 4 stitches on each decrease row and make the top of hat fit much better.  Before doing the weaving and hook- over, go to stitch #8 from left side.  Lift the stitch and place it on peg #9.  Go to stitch #12 from left side.  Lift the stitch and place it on peg #13.  Now you have 2 empty pegs.  Go to right side of loom and count over to peg #8 and place this stitch on adjacent peg to left.  Count over to peg #12 and place this stitch on adjacent peg to left.  Do this to both sides of the board directly across from each other.  You now have (4) empty pegs on each board.  Carefully, lift the stitches and move towards the center of loom.  You want the empties to be at ends of loom.   Now, weave and hook over the row carefully lifting all loops on each peg so that only the one loop remains on the pegs.  Continue working in Rib stitch.

Repeat this decrease process on row #10.  Complete the hat with Rib stitch.

Removing the hat from loom:  Since we are at the top of the hat, we want to create another anchor yarn to gather the top of hat.  Do not bind off.  Instead, cut and knot the working yarn.  Cut another piece of the working yarn about 24” long and thread onto the darning needle.  Pick up the stitches working from one board to the other and allow the stitches to come off the loom onto the yarn.

Small – youth size finishing:  Sew the back seam using invisible stitch with matching yarn, Teal.  Bind off the brim edge stitches.  Gather the top of hat by pulling the yarn securely and tying a secure knot.  Hat is ready for a fun pompom.

Large adult.  In order to add more width to back of hat, we knit a matching piece that will be seamed into the side edges of the hat front.

Cast On 10 stitches in Rib stitch. (More if you want a larger than large hat)  Our 10 sts will add 4” to the size of the hat.  Work this small piece just as you did the hat front only no design is needed and no decreases are needed.  Do work the matching stripe on row 3 to match the front of hat.

Once complete and free of the loom, seam to the hat front using invisible stitch on both sides connecting the 2 pieces into one round hat.  If you use the invisible stitch for the seaming, the seams will not show.  Just be sure to match the Charcoal stripe exactly.  Now, gather each section with the anchor yarns at top of hat.  Tie the yarn securely.

Now you can bind off in one continuous yarn at brim.  Either size, you are ready for the pompom.  We have used both yarns for the pompom in the sample, but you can choose to make it all one color, if desired.  Wrap the yarns around a box or anything that will give you approximately 5” long strands.  Wrap 20-30 wraps; tie in center very securely.   Cut the loops and shake the pompom loose.  Use the yarn tie of the pompom to secure to top of hat.  To finish the hat, use the crochet hook to tuck in any yarn tails that remain from the seaming and knotting.  Shape the pompom as short or as shaggy as desired.  In our sample, we trimmed it up a bit, but left it fairly long.

For a complete look, make a matching Hashtag Scarf. Very cute!


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