Browsing articles in "About STITCHES"
Sep 1, 2014

Stitchology I

Herringbone Stitch & Working with Charts

Herringbone Square angleHi!  My name is Bethany Dailey and I’m new here at Knitting Board Chat. I am so happy to loom along with you!  In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intension for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)

The Ins and Outs of Chart Reading

First up is the Herringbone Stitch.  This is a nice and easy stitch involving repeating rows of knits and purls.  The slightly tricky part of this stitch will be to keep proper count while working the pattern.  To help us along in this process we can use a couple of aids…the first of which is a knitting chart.

Here is the basic stitch chart for this particular pattern:

Herringbone Stitch-chart

When reading a knitting chart, you will be starting at the bottom right and working your way up the chart, from row to row.

Notice how the numbers across the bottom are listed from right to left?  This is because you will be casting onto your looms first from left to right, then your first row will be worked from right to left, matching up each peg number with each of the numbers on the chart bottom.

The numbers which are running up the sides of the chart represent your row count.  As you can see, row number 1 will be worked from right to left, as that is where that row number is designated on the chart.  Row number 2 will be worked from left to right, as that is where you will find the number 2 listed.

By alternating the sides that the row numbers are listed, you are given the clue that this pattern is meant to be worked as a flat panel. If this was a chart that was meant to be worked in the round, you would see each of the row numbers all listed on the same side, because in the process of knitting in the round, you would always be starting each row from that same spot as you worked around the loom.

Knitting Chart Key with grey copy

Now that you know which direction to read the chart, it’s time to decipher what the chart is actually saying.  For this, we need to take a look at the Chart Key.  Here is where the symbols you see in the chart are listed in knitting terms, along with their abbreviations.  For each symbol on the chart, a corresponding stitch will be worked in that exact spot of your row.

The herringbone stitch is a simple one, containing only 2 stitches: knit and purl.  Where you spot a blank square on the chart, you will knit.  Where you spot a dot, you will purl.  It’s as simple as that! :)

Oh, I did mention a couple of aids, right?

The second aid that I love to use while knitting pretty much every project is a good set of stitch markers— or peg Notionsmarkers, as we who love to loom knit tend call them.  These can be pretty much anything that will fit over your pegs, but won’t get in the way of the creation of your stitches.  I love to use them to mark the first and last pegs used in a pattern, as well as any other helpful places that remind me of what I’m supposed to be knitting.   In the case of the herringbone stitch, a good place for them is at the start of every pattern repeat during the row.

Another essential-to-me aid for keeping my place in a pattern I’m working is a good reliable row counter.  This can be a store bought one, a cell phone app, or even something as simple as marking little chicken scratches on a piece of paper at the end of every row.  However you want to do it, a row counter helps avoid lots of frustration in the long run.

Herringbone Stitch Square

Herringbone Stitch

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 105 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Patons Classic Wool Worsted in Jade Heather)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors, measuring tape.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter)

Pattern Notes:

With the beginning of the school year and those chilly Autumn days, this would be a terrific pattern to use as a cozy scarf for both guys and gals!  Simply increase the number of Main Pattern Rows for the length required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.


Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Herringbone Square-chart

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Repeating Pattern Rows

Herringbone Stitch-chart

Row 1:  k3, p2, k1, p2, k2

Row 2:  k1, p2, k3, p2, k2

Row 3:  k1, p2, k5, p2

Row 4:  p1, k2, p1, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 37 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Repeat the following 2 row pattern 3 times, for a total of 6 rows:

Row a: k37

Row b: p37

Main Pattern Rows

Repeat the following 4 row pattern 15 times, for a total of 60 rows:

Row 1:  k3, work Row 1 of repeating pattern to last 4 stitches, k4.

Row 2:  p3, k1, work Row 2 of repeating pattern to last 3 stitches, p3.

Row 3:  k3, work Row 3 of repeating pattern to last 4 stitches, k4.

Row 4:  p3, k1, work Row 4 of repeating pattern to last 3 stitches, p3.

Finishing Rows

Herringbone SquareRow a:  k3, work Row 1 of  repeating pattern to last 4 stitches, k4.

Row b:  p37

Row c:  k37

Row d:  p37

Row e: k37

Row f:  p37

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block lightly to 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″



  • Bethany, it looks great! I would like to make a scarf with this pattern.
    Thanks a lot!

  • Thanks Bethany for doing this very much appreciated

  • I love this stitch. I have to wait until after I go to the craft fair in October but I can’t wait to see all the stitches and make some of these squares. Thank you!! :)

  • Congratulations on your new column Bethany.
    Look forward to seeing more Stitchology

  • Thank you. I love this pattern.

  • This is wonderful…. can’t wait to see more!!!

  • Bethany, Congratulations to you and I guess to all of us who follow you.
    This is exciting! I love this stitch and look forward to learning more
    techniques and stitches. Hurray!

  • Always glad to see Bethany’s patterns. You’ll make a great addition to the blog! (c;

  • Congratulations, again, Bethany! This is a wonderful article and lesson. Thank you! Although I have done this before you have made it much easier for me to break down the chart and pattern.I really have to work to get back to my looming. I also think I am going to have to start another notebook for your columns!! Well done!! Looking forward to your future articles!!

  • Great article, Bethany! And the Herringbone sampler looks fabulous! I’m looking forward to seeing the next stitch pattern.

  • If I wanted to do a hat on a round loom, would I have to change any of the instructions? I’m new at this.

  • Hi Deena :)

    In order to make a hat using these instructions, you would first of all be working in the round in a clockwise direction. This would change the way you would read the chart to every row starting from the right to the left, rather than alternating directions.

    Also, you would need to use only the 10 peg repeating stitch pattern chart, rather than the square pattern chart, because you wouldn’t need the borders of garter stitch.

    Because the stitch pattern uses 10 pegs, your hat would need to be knit using a total number of pegs divisible by 10…ei: 30, 50, 70, etc.

    Hope this helps! I’d love to see a photo of your hat when you’re all done! :)

  • Thanks for the instructions, Bethany! That helps tremendously!

  • Can I use the cable cast on method or will this make it more difficult to stitch my finished panels together?
    Thank you for the expert explanation of charts and including both charts and written directions. I am looking forward to looming along/ learning along with you thru all the panels. I am starting this weekend, as soon as my daughter returns my loom! Hum.. maybe I’ll get her one for Christmas. Thanks for taking the time.

  • Hi Cindy! :)

    The Cable Cast On is a bit loose and lacy, and also might be a tad different than your bind off, which will always create a bit of a difficulty when attempting to create true squares. If you are using the mattress stitch to seam the squares together, it might not matter, except that you would end up with looser stitches on the back sides of the seams. ;) Having said all that, my favorite cast on, and on the one that most matches the Basic BO is the Chain CO, sometimes referred to as the Crochet CO.

    I am so happy you’ll be looming along with us! :D

  • I haven’t loomed much and never from a chart. Do I slip the first stitch of every row after cast on? If yes, and the chart has that first stitch noted as a knit stitch, does the slip stitch count as a knit? Would the start of row 8 be slip, knit, knit, purl, purl? Sorry but I won’t learn if I don’t ask. Thanks

  • Don’t be sorry! It’s a good question. :)

    Nope…no slip stitches at all. Just do what each square on the chart tells you to do. When you’re making an item to be seamed together with other items, it’s usually better to not slip the first stitch of every row. ;)

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May 30, 2014

Summer Wrap/ Scarf

Lace_wrapcropThis summer fashion wrap can also be worn as a traditional scarf.  We use fun lightweight yarns and unique stitch variations.  Each design is simply a different yarn and stitch weave pattern.  You can make several of them to wear over sundresses, and t-shirts and shorts.

 Loom:  10” Knitting Board, with 22 stitches for double knit.  Set spacers at mid width or ¾” between boards.

 Yarn:  Any #2 or 3 yarn of acrylic or cotton/acrylic blend.  Our sample is knit with Bernat Baby Coordinates of acrylic/rayon/nylon, machine wash and dry.  (1) skein, 388 yds.  Color is Soft Grey.

 Notions Needed:  Loom, yarn, knit hook, crochet hook #4-4.5.

 Finished Size:  9” X 60” approximately

 Gauge:  Not noted

 Stitch Pattern:

 1-Open the pins-starting at first pin on top board, lift loop 1 onto pin 2.  Lift loop 3 onto pin 4.  Lift loop 5 onto pin 6 and continue across all 22 pins so that every other pin is empty. 

 2-Turn the board around, and open the pins for these 22 pins.  Be sure to start at this first pin also.  Both sides of loom have every other pin empty and off-set from the 2 sides.




3-Work across all pins in stockinette weave, so that all pins are wrapped again. 


4-Hook over only the pins with the 3 loops lifting 2 loops over and leaving just one loop on the pins.  Do nothing to the pins with just one loop.




 Cast On all 22 stitches in basic stockinette stitch.  Lay anchor yarn of contrasting color yarn.

summershawl2Remember when hooking over the loops to work from L to R to approximate center.  Then work from R to L back to center.  Do same thing to other side of board.  This will keep the side edges even.

 Work the Stitch Pattern, steps 1-4 until the scarf/wrap is as long as desired, or until you have used the entire ball of yarn.  Using the entire ball will result in length of 60-64” long piece.  Cut yarn with 3-4” tail.

 Bind Off of knitting board: Use crochet hook for bind off starting at end opposite the yarn tail.  Pick up loops 1 & 2 from top board and pull loop closest to hook thru the other.  With just one loop on crochet hook, pick up the first loop from front board.  Pull loop closest to hook thru the other.  Pick up next loop from front board and pull one thru the other.  Continue working the 2 loops from back board, and 2 loops from front board until just one loop remains on crochet hook.  Pull the yarn tail thru the last loop to form a knot.  With crochet hook, pull the yarn tail into the solid edge of the knit.


Bind Off at anchor yarn: Start at end opposite the yarn tail.  With crochet hook, pick up first 2 loops.  Pull loop closest to hook thru the other.  Pick up next loop and repeat across the stitches on the anchor yarn.  When only one loop remains on hook, pull yarn tail thru loop to form knot.  Tuck yarn tail into knit with hook.

Finishing:  Gently stretch the knit from long sides to open the knit.  Work down the piece, gently stretching the stitches open.  Your great summer accessory is ready to wear.  You may also want to add a decorative stick pin to secure the wrap, so it stays closed while sitting in your favorite restaurant.

 Fun variations:

This fishnet pattern makes a nice open, scrunchy scarf or wrap to wear any time of year.



Yarn:  Loops and Threads Elegance, 100% acrylic, easy wash and air dry in 30 minutes.  (1) skein needed of 160 yds.  Color used is Poppy.

Stitch Pattern:

1-Open the pins-starting at first pin on top board, lift loop 1 onto pin no. two.Lift loop 3 onto pin 4.  Lift loop 5 onto pin 6 and continue across all 22 pins so that every other pin is empty. 


2-Do not turn the board around to work on front board.  Lift the 2nd loop and place onto 3rd pin.  Lift 4th loop and place onto 5th pin.  Continue across the 22 pins so that every other pin is empty.


summershawl53-Work across all pins in stockinette weave, so that all pins are wrapped again. 

 4-Hook over the pins with the 3 loops lifting 2 loops over and leaving just one loop on the pins.  If your pin has 2 loops, lift bottom over top.  Do nothing to the pins with just one loop.


Repeat steps 1-4 till wrap is as long as desired.

White with Silver Threads wrap is perfect with summer sun dresses as a shoulder wrap. 



It also makes a great accessory worn with your red holiday sweaters later in the year.  You will get so much wear from this piece.  It knits up really quickly and is easy care.


Yarn:Patons Glam Stripes, 85% acrylic and 15% polyester, machine wash and air dry. (1) skein of 261 yds will do the piece nicely.  Color used is White Silver.  The metallic threads will give a slight stripe effect.  Very pretty. Finished size is approximately 8” X 68”.  No gauge noted.

Stitch Pattern:

1-This piece is worked entirely with the Open Braid stitch.  After cast on of the 22 stitches, lay anchor yarn.  Weave from top first pin to bottom 4th pin.  Continue across the loom weaving every other pin till you get to end.  Carry yarn straight across to back and weave back, wrapping all the pins that were skipped.

2-Hook over all pins on both sides of loom, bottom loop over top loop. Continue steps 1 and 2 until you have used the entire skein of yarn.  Bind off.

Summer wraps and scarves also make a great accent when worn around your hips over long cotton skirts.  Just have lots of fun with them.



  • I am trying to buy the 5 peg sliders but can’t find them in a store and I didn’t want to pay $12 to ship a $5 item. Please let me know if anyone can assist me with this. Thanks

  • Hi, I think you live in Australia, correct? The shipping is crazy when items are going to countries outside of US. The only thing you can do is locate others in your area that may want something also and combine your orders for shipping. The item you seek is currently not sold to stores. Another thing you can do is ask your favorite knit or craft store to consider being a distributor and carry a few products. We could send your item with theirs. You can also send your address to us at and ask for a first class rate on mailing and we can do a search for you and see if a better rate exists.

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Mar 7, 2013

Crown Stitch

I love playing around with my knitting looms. I have had my eye on this specific stitch for awhile but I just couldn’t wrap my mind around it. I knew it was totally possible but didn’t know how to go about it. I sat down and after a Crown Sttich few failed attempts and much fighting with my knitting loom, I came out victorious! The knitting loom doesn’t know yet that I have a “no quit” policy, hahaha!

I present to you, the Crown Stitch. A lot of my friends are calling it the “broom stitch” from crochet. Since you already know that I know nothing about crochet, I’ll take your word for it ;).

Ready? Here is a playlist on how to do the Crown Stitch. It is two videos. The most important part is at the end of Video 1 and the entire Video 2.

Written Instructions

Crown stitch

(Multiple of 5 stitches)

Row 1: k
Row 2: p
Row 3: k
Row 4: p
Row 5: k1, *k1, ewrap peg 3 times; rep from * to the peg before last, k1
Row 6: *Work on 5 pegs at a time, drop the loops on the first 5 pegs ( peg 1 and last peg only have 1 loop on it). Elongate these wraps. Move all the wraps to peg 1, then from peg 1 to peg 2. Elongate the wraps over 4 pegs (from peg 2 to peg 5). You will now work and create 5 stitches on these elongated wraps as follows: k1, [p1, k1]twice; rep from * to the end.
Row 7: knit
Row 8: purl.

Rep these 8 rows.



  • I like your knitting loom patterns and stitches, videos it makes it a fun experience
    to use the knitting looms.

  • Wonderingbifvanyone could explain the brioch stitch on a board. Please.

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Jun 19, 2012

Mini-Series on Increases:

In the next couple of weeks, we are going to learn some new increases and how to create them on our knitting looms. We will be tackling the following: YO, M1, M1L, M1R, LLI, RLI, K1F&B, P1F&B, KRB.

Inc: Increase–what is it? It is a way to add stitches to your knitting either on a row or in the round. While adding stitches on a row in simple, adding stitches in the round is a little bit more tricky for us loom knitters are most of our looms have a set peg number and we cannot “add” pegs to our loom. However, with our AllnOne loom, we can add in the round! Yay for us!

Swing by later this week and we will go over a YO and how to create it on our loom.



  • Can’t wait to see it!

  • So looking forward to this–I try to ignore patterns that make be do anything other than the basics so will enjoy learning more about increasing.

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Apr 30, 2012

Tulip Lace Facecloth

A small little square is the perfect way to try out new stitches. The Tulip Lace Facecloth uses the Tulip Lace stitch throughout.

Loom: AllnOne Knitting Loom

Yarn: Approx 60 yards of worsted weight cotton yarn.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle

Size: Approx 7 x 7 inches


Cast on 37 sts, prepare to work a flat panel
R1 (must go from right to left—clockwise around the loom): p37
R2: k37
R3: p37
R4: k37
R5: p3, k3, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k2, p3
R6: k37
R7: p3, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k1, p3
R8: k37
R9: p3, k3, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k2, p3
R10: k37
R11: p3, k31, p3
R12: k37
R13: p3, k7, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, sl1 k psso, yo, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, p3
R14: k37
R15: p3, k5, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k5, p3
R16: k37
R17: p3, k7, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, sl1 k psso, yo, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, p3
R18: k37
R19: p3, k31, p3
R20: k37
R21: p3, k3, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k2, p3
R22: k37
R23: p3, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k1, p3
R24: k37
R25: p3, k3, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k2, p3
R26: k37
R27: p3, k31, p3
R28: k37
R29: p3, k7, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, sl1 k psso, yo, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, p3
R30: k37
R31: p3, k5, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k5, p3
R32: k37
R33: p3, k7, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, sl1 k psso, yo, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, p3
R34: k37
R35: p3, k31, p3
R36: k37
R37: p3, k3, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k2, p3
R38: k37
R39: p3, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k1, p3
R40: k37
R41: p3, k3, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k2, p3
R42: k37
R43: p3, k31, p3
R44: k37
R45: p3, k7, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, sl1 k psso, yo, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, p3
R46: k37
R47: p3, k5, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k5, p3
R48: k37
R49: p3, k7, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, sl1 k psso, yo, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, p3
R50: k37
R51: p37
R52: k37
R53: p37
Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave ends in.


  • I love this stitch! I am always looking for new ones to try out on dishcloths (Mother’s Day is coming – this may fit the bill)

  • At this point I have shared this post as well and am up to 20 points total….off to find more posts I missed :)

  • Stunning washcloth. I think it would make an awesome granny square on a larger project! I even mentioned that on Google+, Pinterest, facebook and twitter. =)

  • I’m using the All-n-One and gave a gauge swatch of 11 sts and 16 rows for 2 inches.

  • i am very new new to this craft but for years after having a paralyzed left arm was determined to teach my self to knit and thank god i stumbled upon a kitting board!!!! but have yet to find a place for lessons to guide me through mistakes i was under trhe impression the knit stitch always needed to be wrapped on a peg after viewing the videos you have taught me otherwise you have np idea how video has helped the world of those stuck at home self teaching thank you sooooooooooo much i just wish now the boards were a bit less expensive you will hear from me again THANK YOU for helping me sincerely Maureen halle. i purchased the book reading has been reenforced.

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Apr 27, 2012

Dropped Stitches

It happens to be the best of us. You are busy knitting and purling and all of a sudden you get distracted and next thing you know, you look at your knitting and there it is, a big hole and ladders going all the way down. You panic and right away you see your many hours of work going down the drain! But wait! Before you go ahead and throw the knitting loom at the first person you see, check out this video. It will show you how to pick up a dropped knit stitch. Try it, it may just save your project.

How about a purl stitch? Here is a video demonstrating how to pick up a dropped purl stitch.

Written instructions on Picking up a Dropped Knit Stitch:
1. Insert a crochet hook from front to back through the loop of the bottommost dropped stitch.

2. With the crochet hook, catch the bottommost ladder (horizontal piece of yarn connecting one stitch to the other) and pull it through the loop of the dropped stitch. Thus creating the new loop stitch.

3. Repeat step 2 above until you have picked up all the ladders and you are at your last row/round of your fabric.

4. Remove the crochet hook from that piece of yarn.

5. When you’ve picked up the last dropped stitch, place that last loop onto empty pege and continue working.

But how about if you have a boatload of stitches that you have dropped or you have just realized that instead of knitting one entire row you purled it and you must go back to that row and fix it. First, locate the row/round below the one with “trouble”. Then, pass a piece of contrasting color yarn through EACH of the stitches, this yarn will hold all the stitches in place so you do not lose any other stitches. Now the scary part, take all the loops off the pegs and unravel all the stitches until you reach the row/round with the piece of scrap yarn. Next, place the stitches that are on the scrap yarn back on the knitting loom.

I found another great source for picking up dropped stitches, it is for knitting on needles but the same concept applies when picking up a dropped stitch. The source is from

Happy looming!


  • Wow, that looked super easy! Thanks for showing us how to pick up stitches. Makes the loom look more inviting knowing that our work can be recovered.

  • PS: just posted on twitter, facebook, pinterest and google+.

  • some patterns tell you to turn the knitting board when you get to the end of the row, some don’t . Do I have to and what is the purpose of turning it?

  • Hi Nancy,

    If you are using a knitting board where you have 2 rows of pins that you are working with you will need to hook over on both boards and an easy way to do this is by turning the knitting board around, but if you are single knitting you are not working with 2 rows, jut a big circle.

  • I’m making the slouchy hat and today I noticed I dropped a stitch after I had completed about 5 inches. So I was glad I saw this video on Friday & could correct my error without having to frog so much work.

  • This is just what I needed today! I can’t tell you how many times I have dropped a stitch and not known how to mend it without ripping out and starting from ground zero. Thanks! (I also shared this post on facebook and twitter = 23 points total for me)

  • Thanks Pat! I use both sides and it is easier for me to lace it without turning so I will just keep doing it like I have been. I have the 10 inch and 28 inch knitting boards and am giving some serious thought to getting the new all in one board. Happy stitiching yall!!

  • knitting with knitting loom (28″) both rows. Can you show me as well as written instructions how to pick up dropped stitches my othert alternative is to rip some rows in this case do i rip to beginning? Can i take just so many rows off? if I can do this -how do I rehook thw stitches on thwn pins? Help!! Please

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