Herringbone Stitch & Working with Charts
Hi! My name is Bethany Dailey and I’m new here at Knitting Board Chat. I am so happy to loom along with you! In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure. My intension for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square. As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you? You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)
The Ins and Outs of Chart Reading
First up is the Herringbone Stitch. This is a nice and easy stitch involving repeating rows of knits and purls. The slightly tricky part of this stitch will be to keep proper count while working the pattern. To help us along in this process we can use a couple of aids…the first of which is a knitting chart.
Here is the basic stitch chart for this particular pattern:
When reading a knitting chart, you will be starting at the bottom right and working your way up the chart, from row to row.
Notice how the numbers across the bottom are listed from right to left? This is because you will be casting onto your looms first from left to right, then your first row will be worked from right to left, matching up each peg number with each of the numbers on the chart bottom.
The numbers which are running up the sides of the chart represent your row count. As you can see, row number 1 will be worked from right to left, as that is where that row number is designated on the chart. Row number 2 will be worked from left to right, as that is where you will find the number 2 listed.
By alternating the sides that the row numbers are listed, you are given the clue that this pattern is meant to be worked as a flat panel. If this was a chart that was meant to be worked in the round, you would see each of the row numbers all listed on the same side, because in the process of knitting in the round, you would always be starting each row from that same spot as you worked around the loom.
Now that you know which direction to read the chart, it’s time to decipher what the chart is actually saying. For this, we need to take a look at the Chart Key. Here is where the symbols you see in the chart are listed in knitting terms, along with their abbreviations. For each symbol on the chart, a corresponding stitch will be worked in that exact spot of your row.
The herringbone stitch is a simple one, containing only 2 stitches: knit and purl. Where you spot a blank square on the chart, you will knit. Where you spot a dot, you will purl. It’s as simple as that! :)
Oh, I did mention a couple of aids, right?
The second aid that I love to use while knitting pretty much every project is a good set of stitch markers— or peg markers, as we who love to loom knit tend call them. These can be pretty much anything that will fit over your pegs, but won’t get in the way of the creation of your stitches. I love to use them to mark the first and last pegs used in a pattern, as well as any other helpful places that remind me of what I’m supposed to be knitting. In the case of the herringbone stitch, a good place for them is at the start of every pattern repeat during the row.
Another essential-to-me aid for keeping my place in a pattern I’m working is a good reliable row counter. This can be a store bought one, a cell phone app, or even something as simple as marking little chicken scratches on a piece of paper at the end of every row. However you want to do it, a row counter helps avoid lots of frustration in the long run.
Herringbone Stitch Square
Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge. The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.
Yarn: approx. 105 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Patons Classic Wool Worsted in Jade Heather)
Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors, measuring tape. (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter)
With the beginning of the school year and those chilly Autumn days, this would be a terrific pattern to use as a cozy scarf for both guys and gals! Simply increase the number of Main Pattern Rows for the length required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.
When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.
Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:
Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart. Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!
But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)
Repeating Pattern Rows
Row 1: k3, p2, k1, p2, k2
Row 2: k1, p2, k3, p2, k2
Row 3: k1, p2, k5, p2
Row 4: p1, k2, p1, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1
Step by Step Instructions:
Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 37 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)
Set Up Rows
Repeat the following 2 row pattern 3 times, for a total of 6 rows:
Row a: k37
Row b: p37
Main Pattern Rows
Repeat the following 4 row pattern 15 times, for a total of 60 rows:
Row 1: k3, work Row 1 of repeating pattern to last 4 stitches, k4.
Row 2: p3, k1, work Row 2 of repeating pattern to last 3 stitches, p3.
Row 3: k3, work Row 3 of repeating pattern to last 4 stitches, k4.
Row 4: p3, k1, work Row 4 of repeating pattern to last 3 stitches, p3.
Row b: p37
Row c: k37
Row d: p37
Row e: k37
Row f: p37
Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off) Weave in ends and trim close to work.
Block lightly to 8” x 8” measurement.
If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares. We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket. Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:
- Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
- Children: 42″ x 48″
- Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
- Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
- Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″
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This summer fashion wrap can also be worn as a traditional scarf. We use fun lightweight yarns and unique stitch variations. Each design is simply a different yarn and stitch weave pattern. You can make several of them to wear over sundresses, and t-shirts and shorts.
Loom: 10” Knitting Board, with 22 stitches for double knit. Set spacers at mid width or ¾” between boards.
Yarn: Any #2 or 3 yarn of acrylic or cotton/acrylic blend. Our sample is knit with Bernat Baby Coordinates of acrylic/rayon/nylon, machine wash and dry. (1) skein, 388 yds. Color is Soft Grey.
Notions Needed: Loom, yarn, knit hook, crochet hook #4-4.5.
Finished Size: 9” X 60” approximately
Gauge: Not noted
1-Open the pins-starting at first pin on top board, lift loop 1 onto pin 2. Lift loop 3 onto pin 4. Lift loop 5 onto pin 6 and continue across all 22 pins so that every other pin is empty.
2-Turn the board around, and open the pins for these 22 pins. Be sure to start at this first pin also. Both sides of loom have every other pin empty and off-set from the 2 sides.
3-Work across all pins in stockinette weave, so that all pins are wrapped again.
4-Hook over only the pins with the 3 loops lifting 2 loops over and leaving just one loop on the pins. Do nothing to the pins with just one loop.
Cast On all 22 stitches in basic stockinette stitch. Lay anchor yarn of contrasting color yarn.
Work the Stitch Pattern, steps 1-4 until the scarf/wrap is as long as desired, or until you have used the entire ball of yarn. Using the entire ball will result in length of 60-64” long piece. Cut yarn with 3-4” tail.
Bind Off of knitting board: Use crochet hook for bind off starting at end opposite the yarn tail. Pick up loops 1 & 2 from top board and pull loop closest to hook thru the other. With just one loop on crochet hook, pick up the first loop from front board. Pull loop closest to hook thru the other. Pick up next loop from front board and pull one thru the other. Continue working the 2 loops from back board, and 2 loops from front board until just one loop remains on crochet hook. Pull the yarn tail thru the last loop to form a knot. With crochet hook, pull the yarn tail into the solid edge of the knit.
Bind Off at anchor yarn: Start at end opposite the yarn tail. With crochet hook, pick up first 2 loops. Pull loop closest to hook thru the other. Pick up next loop and repeat across the stitches on the anchor yarn. When only one loop remains on hook, pull yarn tail thru loop to form knot. Tuck yarn tail into knit with hook.
Finishing: Gently stretch the knit from long sides to open the knit. Work down the piece, gently stretching the stitches open. Your great summer accessory is ready to wear. You may also want to add a decorative stick pin to secure the wrap, so it stays closed while sitting in your favorite restaurant.
This fishnet pattern makes a nice open, scrunchy scarf or wrap to wear any time of year.
Yarn: Loops and Threads Elegance, 100% acrylic, easy wash and air dry in 30 minutes. (1) skein needed of 160 yds. Color used is Poppy.
1-Open the pins-starting at first pin on top board, lift loop 1 onto pin no. two.Lift loop 3 onto pin 4. Lift loop 5 onto pin 6 and continue across all 22 pins so that every other pin is empty.
2-Do not turn the board around to work on front board. Lift the 2nd loop and place onto 3rd pin. Lift 4th loop and place onto 5th pin. Continue across the 22 pins so that every other pin is empty.
4-Hook over the pins with the 3 loops lifting 2 loops over and leaving just one loop on the pins. If your pin has 2 loops, lift bottom over top. Do nothing to the pins with just one loop.
Repeat steps 1-4 till wrap is as long as desired.
White with Silver Threads wrap is perfect with summer sun dresses as a shoulder wrap.
It also makes a great accessory worn with your red holiday sweaters later in the year. You will get so much wear from this piece. It knits up really quickly and is easy care.
Yarn:Patons Glam Stripes, 85% acrylic and 15% polyester, machine wash and air dry. (1) skein of 261 yds will do the piece nicely. Color used is White Silver. The metallic threads will give a slight stripe effect. Very pretty. Finished size is approximately 8” X 68”. No gauge noted.
1-This piece is worked entirely with the Open Braid stitch. After cast on of the 22 stitches, lay anchor yarn. Weave from top first pin to bottom 4th pin. Continue across the loom weaving every other pin till you get to end. Carry yarn straight across to back and weave back, wrapping all the pins that were skipped.
2-Hook over all pins on both sides of loom, bottom loop over top loop. Continue steps 1 and 2 until you have used the entire skein of yarn. Bind off.
Summer wraps and scarves also make a great accent when worn around your hips over long cotton skirts. Just have lots of fun with them.
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I love playing around with my knitting looms. I have had my eye on this specific stitch for awhile but I just couldn’t wrap my mind around it. I knew it was totally possible but didn’t know how to go about it. I sat down and after a few failed attempts and much fighting with my knitting loom, I came out victorious! The knitting loom doesn’t know yet that I have a “no quit” policy, hahaha!
I present to you, the Crown Stitch. A lot of my friends are calling it the “broom stitch” from crochet. Since you already know that I know nothing about crochet, I’ll take your word for it ;).
Ready? Here is a playlist on how to do the Crown Stitch. It is two videos. The most important part is at the end of Video 1 and the entire Video 2.
(Multiple of 5 stitches)
Row 1: k
Row 2: p
Row 3: k
Row 4: p
Row 5: k1, *k1, ewrap peg 3 times; rep from * to the peg before last, k1
Row 6: *Work on 5 pegs at a time, drop the loops on the first 5 pegs ( peg 1 and last peg only have 1 loop on it). Elongate these wraps. Move all the wraps to peg 1, then from peg 1 to peg 2. Elongate the wraps over 4 pegs (from peg 2 to peg 5). You will now work and create 5 stitches on these elongated wraps as follows: k1, [p1, k1]twice; rep from * to the end.
Row 7: knit
Row 8: purl.
Rep these 8 rows.
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In the next couple of weeks, we are going to learn some new increases and how to create them on our knitting looms. We will be tackling the following: YO, M1, M1L, M1R, LLI, RLI, K1F&B, P1F&B, KRB.
Inc: Increase–what is it? It is a way to add stitches to your knitting either on a row or in the round. While adding stitches on a row in simple, adding stitches in the round is a little bit more tricky for us loom knitters are most of our looms have a set peg number and we cannot “add” pegs to our loom. However, with our AllnOne loom, we can add in the round! Yay for us!
Swing by later this week and we will go over a YO and how to create it on our loom.
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Loom: AllnOne Knitting Loom
Yarn: Approx 60 yards of worsted weight cotton yarn.
Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle
Size: Approx 7 x 7 inches
Cast on 37 sts, prepare to work a flat panel
R1 (must go from right to left—clockwise around the loom): p37
R5: p3, k3, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k2, p3
R7: p3, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k1, p3
R9: p3, k3, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k2, p3
R11: p3, k31, p3
R13: p3, k7, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, sl1 k psso, yo, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, p3
R15: p3, k5, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k5, p3
R17: p3, k7, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, sl1 k psso, yo, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, p3
R19: p3, k31, p3
R21: p3, k3, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k2, p3
R23: p3, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k1, p3
R25: p3, k3, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k2, p3
R27: p3, k31, p3
R29: p3, k7, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, sl1 k psso, yo, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, p3
R31: p3, k5, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k5, p3
R33: p3, k7, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, sl1 k psso, yo, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, p3
R35: p3, k31, p3
R37: p3, k3, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k2, p3
R39: p3, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k1, p3
R41: p3, k3, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k2, p3
R43: p3, k31, p3
R45: p3, k7, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, sl1 k psso, yo, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, p3
R47: p3, k5, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1 k psso, k5, p3
R49: p3, k7, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, sl1 k psso, yo, k6, yo, sl1 k psso, k6, p3
Bind off with basic bind off method. Weave ends in.
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It happens to be the best of us. You are busy knitting and purling and all of a sudden you get distracted and next thing you know, you look at your knitting and there it is, a big hole and ladders going all the way down. You panic and right away you see your many hours of work going down the drain! But wait! Before you go ahead and throw the knitting loom at the first person you see, check out this video. It will show you how to pick up a dropped knit stitch. Try it, it may just save your project.
How about a purl stitch? Here is a video demonstrating how to pick up a dropped purl stitch.
Written instructions on Picking up a Dropped Knit Stitch:
1. Insert a crochet hook from front to back through the loop of the bottommost dropped stitch.
2. With the crochet hook, catch the bottommost ladder (horizontal piece of yarn connecting one stitch to the other) and pull it through the loop of the dropped stitch. Thus creating the new loop stitch.
3. Repeat step 2 above until you have picked up all the ladders and you are at your last row/round of your fabric.
4. Remove the crochet hook from that piece of yarn.
5. When you’ve picked up the last dropped stitch, place that last loop onto empty pege and continue working.
But how about if you have a boatload of stitches that you have dropped or you have just realized that instead of knitting one entire row you purled it and you must go back to that row and fix it. First, locate the row/round below the one with “trouble”. Then, pass a piece of contrasting color yarn through EACH of the stitches, this yarn will hold all the stitches in place so you do not lose any other stitches. Now the scary part, take all the loops off the pegs and unravel all the stitches until you reach the row/round with the piece of scrap yarn. Next, place the stitches that are on the scrap yarn back on the knitting loom.
I found another great source for picking up dropped stitches, it is for knitting on needles but the same concept applies when picking up a dropped stitch. The source is from VogueKnitting.com
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