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Mar 2, 2015

Stitchology VII

Clover Columns Stitch

Clover Columns

May you live a long life,
Full of gladness and health;
With pockets full of gold,
As the least of your wealth.
May the dreams you hold dearest,
Be those which come true;
The kindness you spread,
Keep returning to you.

-Irish Blessing

 

If this doesn’t call to the Irish in you, (at least in spirit, if not in blood, haha!) I don’t know what will.  Delicate swirls and twists that form little four clovers make up this month’s stitch, just in time for St. Patrick’s Day.  IClover Columns clover f it looks rather complicated to manage, no worries, because it’s actually a fairly easy stitch to do!  The cables are done by simply twisting two peg’s stitches at a time as you work through the rows.  :)

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)  To find all the previous stitches in this column, simply click here.

Clover Columns Square

Clover Columns close

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in kiwi)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: cable needle, peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 13—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch edges for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

*All yarn overs (yo) for this stitch are completed by e-wrapping the peg.

*For ease in reading the pattern’s directions below, the steps  involving twists and eyelets are placed inside brackets [ ] to let you know that they are all accomplished on just two or three pegs.

The cables in this pattern involve simply trading the loops of 2 pegs in the correct order. They consist of a Right Twist [rt2] (a twist with the sts running to the right), and a Left Twist [lt2] (a twist with the sts running to the left).  They are worked as follows:

[rt2]:  Worked over 2 pegs: Lift the loop from the peg on the right and either hold in your fingers, or place on a cable needle.  Lift the loop on the left and move it to the peg on the right.  Place the held loop onto the peg on the left.  With the working yarn, knit the 2 pegs.

[lt2]:  Worked over 2 pegs: Lift the loop from the peg on the left and either hold in your fingers, or place on a cable needle.  Lift the loop on the right and move it to the peg on the left.  Place the held loop onto the peg on the right.  With the working yarn, knit the 2 pegs.

*An easy way to remember which direction to go is to remember to hold the stitch on the side of the slant.  So…for a right twist, hold the loop on the right.  For a left twist, hold the loop on the left.

There are two ways of creating eyelets for this pattern: the Knit 2 Together (k2tog) for a right leaning eyelet worked as a knit, and the Slip, Slip, Knift (ssk) for a left leaning eyelet worked as a knit.  For this pattern, they are each incorporated into a cable twist, as seen in Row 12. The following dictates how to work these stitches as you will find them in the stitch pattern:

[yo, k2tog, rt2].[yo, k2tog, rt2]:  Work over 3 pegs from left to right: Before working the k2tog peg, work a [rt2] as detailed above, but do not knit yet.  Move the loop from the k2tog peg to the left peg of the [rt2].  Using the working yarn, e-wrap the empty k2tog peg.  Knit the 2 twist pegs, working the 2 loops as one.

[lt2, ssk, yo][lt2, ssk, yo]: Work over 3 pegs from left to right: Work a [lt2] as detailed above, but do not knit yet.  Move the loop from the ssk peg to the right peg of the [lt2].  Using the working yarn, knit the 2 twist pegs, working the 2 loops as one.  E-wrap the empty ssk peg.

Chart Key Clover Columns

 

Repeating Pattern Rows

Clover Cables Stitch

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Clover Columns Square

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

 

Step by Step Instructions:

*Note: if you tend to be a loose knitter, you might wish to eliminate Rows 1 & 63 to help achieve your 8″ x 8″ square.

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 44 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Main Pattern Rows

Clover Columns longRow 1:  p3, k1, *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2.

Row 2:  k2, p1, k1, *p2, k2, p2, k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, repeat * to last st, k1.

Row 3:  repeat Row 1.

Row 4:  k1, *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 4 sts, k1, p1, k2.

Row 5:  p3, *k1, p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p2, k1, p1, repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2.

Row 6:  k1, *k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p1, [lt2], p1, k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 4 sts, k1, p1, k2

Rows 7:  repeat Row 5.

Row 8:  k1, *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [lt2], [rt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 4 sts, k1, p1, k2.

Row 9:  repeat Row 1. *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Row 10:  k2, *p1, [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], repeat from * to  last 3 sts, p1, k2.

Row 11:  p4, *k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p3, repeat from * to last st, p1.

Row 12:  k2, p2, *work over 3 pegs: [lt2, ssk, yo], p1, [rt2], p1, work over 3 pegs: [yo, k2tog, rt2], p3, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 13:  repeat Row 11.  *Tip: work this row a bit looser so that the next row’s twists will be easier to work.

Row 14:  k2, *p1, [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], [lt2], [rt2], repeat from * to  last 3 sts, p1, k2.

Row 15:  repeat Row 9.

Row 16:  k1, *k1, p1, k1, p2, k1, [rt2], [lt2], k1, p2, repeat from * to  last 4 sts, k1, p1, k2.

Row 17:  repeat Row 5.

Row 18:  repeat Row 6.

Row 19:  repeat Row 5.

Row 20:  repeat Row 8.

Rows 21-60:  repeat Rows 1-20.

Finishing Rows

Rows 61-63:  repeat Rows 1-3.

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

Stitchology Squares If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

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Feb 2, 2015

Stitchology VI

Eyelet You Have My Heart

Hearts, front angle

Ah, February… the month for sweethearts of all kinds!  In honor of Valentine’s Day, I thought it might be nice to work up a pattern which, while providing wonderful texture and loft, also liberally sprinkles what is known throughout history as the symbol of love: the Heart.

Heart, tulipThe appealing way the hearts sit directly on top of the set of three eyelets also reminds me of tulips…which is perfect for those who seek the first signs of spring! :)

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intention for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)

Eyelet You Have My Heart Square

Hearts, close up

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Berroco Vintage in Berries)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter, and blocking pins)

Pattern Notes:

To work this pattern in the round, such as for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 8—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, begin with the Set Up Rows, then simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows inside the garter stitch border for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

*All yarn overs (yo) are completed by laying the working yarn loosely across the front of the peg, not e-wrapping! If you e-wrap, your eyelets and hearts will not be visible. ;)

To work a s1, k1, psso (in the case of this pattern, a right leaning eyelet), please see this tutorial by Isela Phelps:

*For ease in reading the pattern’s directions below, this step is placed inside brackets [ ] to let you know that these steps are all accomplished on just two pegs.

To work a ssk (a left leaning eyelet), please see this tutorial by Isela Phelps:

*For ease in reading the pattern’s directions below, this step is placed inside brackets [ ] to let you know that these steps are all accomplished on just two pegs.

There are two additional ways of creating eyelets for this particular pattern: the Purl 2 Together (P2tog) for a right leaning eyelet worked as a purl, and the Slip, Slip, Purl (ssp) for a left leaning eyelet worked as a purl.  The following dictates how to work these stitches as you will find them in the stitch pattern:

[yo, ssp]: Worked from right to left. Move the loop from yo peg to the ssp peg. Loosely carry the WY across the front of the empty yo peg, then purl the next peg, working the two loops as one.

[ssp, yo]: Worked from left to right.  Before working the two pegs, move the loop from the yo peg to the ssp peg. Purl the ssp peg, working the two loops as one. Loosely carry the WY across the front of the empty yo peg and work the next peg in line as the pattern dictates.

[yo, P2tog]:  Worked the same as a [yo, ssp], but is worked from left to right.

 

Chart Key Eyelets Hearts

 

Repeating Pattern Rows

Eyelets & Hearts Stitch

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Eyelets & Hearts Square

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

 

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 37 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Hearts, angle

Set Up Rows

Row 1:  p37

Row 2:  k37

Row 3:  p37

Main Pattern Rows

Row 4:  k37

Row 5:  p2, k4, p1, *k7,  p1, repeat from * to last 6 sts, k4, p2.

Row 6: *k5, p3, repeat from *, ending with k5.

Rows 7:  p2, k2, p2, [yo, ssp], p1, *k3, p2, [yo, ssp], p1, repeat from * to last 4 sts, k2, p2.

Row 8: k3, *p1, [ssp, yo], p1, [yo, p2tog], p1, k1, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 9:  p2, k1, *p7, k1, repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2.

Row 10:  k4, *p2, k1, p2, k3, repeat from * to last sts, k1.

Row 11:  p2, k33, p2.

Row 12:  k37

Row 13:  p2, k1, [yo, ssk], *k1, p1, k1, [s1, k1, psso, yo], repeat from * to last 7 sts, k5, p2.

Row 14:  k5, *p1, k1, p1, k5, repeat from * to end.

Row 15:  p2, *[yo, ssk], p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, repeat from * to last 3 sts, [yo, ssp], p1.

Hearts Row 16:  k3, *p1, k1, repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Row 17:  p3, k1, p1, [s1, k1, psso, yo], *k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, [s1, k1, psso, yo], repeat from * to last 6 sts, k1, p1, k1, p3.

Row 18:  k3, p1, k5, *p1, k1, p1, k5, repeat from * to last 4 sts, p1, k3.

Row 19:  p3, k1, [s1, k1, psso, yo], k1, [yo, ssk], *k1, p1, k1, [s1, k1, psso, yo], k1, [yo, ssk], repeat from * to last 4 sts, k1, p3.

Row 20-51:  repeat Rows 4-19.

Row 52-60:  work as Rows 4-12.

Finishing Rows

Row 61:  p37

Row 62:  k37

Row 63:  p37

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Hearts, blockingBlock to an 8” x 8” measurement.  This square was blocked quite thoroughly to really help the eyelets open and the stitches pop.  It was gently washed by hand, left to soak for a while, then the excess water was squeezed out by rolling and pressing the square inside a towel.  As you can see by this photo, the extra step of pinning each eyelet open was used and is highly recommended to achieve the best results! ;)

Afghan Notes:

blocks on red smIf you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

9 Comments

  • Another beautiful stitch pattern Bethany! What lovely hearts. Love the title..::snicker:: so sweet! Thanks for all you do.

  • Thank you, Kristen! Glad you are enjoying the column. :D

  • Absolutely beautiful, Bethany! So delicate and just beautiful. Spectacular job!

    Love this column. Would love to find a project for my mom and incorporate this stitch. Maybe a the shrug, when I have time…..hopefully before Mother’s day.

    Question though….on the stitchology page it list I and II. This project is listed as VI. Have I missed a few projects somewhere? Trying to keep up inbetween home projects, LOL! At least in projects on paper if not able to be on my loom

  • I also love the title, Bethany. Your squares are all very lovely :)

  • Thank you, Linda! :) This would make an absolutely gorgeous shrug!

    I think if you click on the Stitchology Column link it generally only shows a total of two posts at a time…but there is a place down at the very bottom of the feed to go to the next page. You should be able to see all the following posts by navigating through the pages. ;)

    Hope that helps!

  • ahhh, thank you bunches, Miss Jenny! <3

  • I have a fine gauge adjustable sock loom and I’m able to do the knit and pearl stitches well.
    But I’m having a lot of trouble doing the flat stitch to turn the heel. I’ve tried doing it also with the CD that came with the loom and I get holes, runs and/or the stitches just don’t look right. Can anyone give me some advise?

    Thanks,
    Cindy

  • Very pretty Bethany! I am a newbee but I am going to try very hard to make this one.
    I have a few questions about the afghan squares:

    Do the squares have to go in a specific order when sewn together? I have seen some other afghan squares pattern that have to be sewn together in a specific order either because of the stretch factor or peg count.

    Secondly, when attaching the blocks together what are the options that you recommend? Kitchener stitch or I think I saw in one of your books a way to make an edging using the 5 peg slider rail . Could this be modified to attach the blocks together?

    Thank you

  • Hi there, Cindy! :)

    I’m so happy to hear that you’ll be working on squares with us! I haven’t thought out a particular order as of yet, mostly because these squares are being invented month by month, lol. Maybe it would be a good idea to work all the squares first, then we’ll evaluate what would be the best option for joining. ;) I wouldn’t recommend the Kitchener for these…maybe just a simple mattress stitch, or a whipstitch. Crocheting the squares together might be a nice option, as well. :)

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