Oct 24, 2014

Swirling Leaves Cowl

Fall Cowl

Fall Cowl by Isela Phelps

The trees are changing color and perfect evening temperatures call for a cup of hot cocoa and pumpkin cookies. The Swirling Leaves cowl was inspired by all the beautiful colors of nature during this time of year.

Knitting loom: Afghan Knitting Loom, 141 pegs used.

Yarn: Approx 4400 yds of Aran weight wool blend. Breakdown: 300 yds of main color (MC), 50 yds of contrasting color (CC), 25 yds of second contrasting color (SCC), 25 yds of third contrasting color (TCC). Sample used Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran in Beige (Main color, 300 yards). Accent colors—Knit Picks Swish Worsted in Allspice (CC), Dublin (SCC), Cornmeal (TCC).

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle.

Gauge (blocked): 10sts x 15rows= 2 inches

Pattern notes: The cowl is worked as a flat panel, the flat panel then is seamed to a circular. The picot edging is worked as part of the body of the cowl. The leaves are loom knitted then sewn to the cowl. The connecting branches are embroidered on.

Abbreviations

K=knit stitch (do not substitute with e-wrap).

P=purl stitch

Sts=stitches

MC=Main color

CC=Contrasting color

SCC=Second contrasting color

TCC=Third contrasting color

K2tog=knit two stitches together. Decrease slants to the right. How to: over 2 pegs, peg 1 is on the right, peg 2 is on the left. Move loop from peg 1 over to peg 2. Knit peg 2, treating both loops as one loop. Move stitch over to peg 1.

SSK=slip, slip knit. Decrease slants to the left.  How to: over 2 pegs, peg 1 is on the right, peg 2 is on the left. Move loop from peg 2 to peg 1. Knit peg 1, treating both loops as one loop.

M1=make one, an increase. Before you can do the M1, you need to have a peg empty where you need the increase, move the stitches outwards to create an empty peg.  Reach for the ladder going from one peg to the next peg, twist it and place it on the peg. When you reach the point where you created the twist, knit the peg as normal.

INSTRUCTIONS

COWLFall Cowl

Cast on 141 pegs, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1: k1, *k1, k3; rep from * to the last 4 sts, k4.

Row 2: k4, *k3, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.

Rep Rows 1 and 2 until item measures approx. 11 inches from cast on edge.

Cut MC, join CC.

Next 4 rows: k to the end of row.

Next row: *k2tog, yo; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Next 4 rows: k to the end of row.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Leaves

Make 3-one with each color (CC, SCC, TCC)

Over 11 stitches (pegs)

Leave a 15 inch beginning yarn tail, cast on 3sts (working yarn should end by peg 3 after cast on. Row 1 should go in a left-right direction.) Prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1 and all other odd number rows: knit entire row

Row 2: k1, (m1, k1) twice. (5sts total)

Row 4: k2, m1, k1, m1, k2. (7sts total)

Row 6: k3, m1, k1, m1, k3. (9sts total)

Row 8: k4, m1, k1, m1, k4. (11sts total)

Row 10: ssk, k7, k2tog. (9sts total)

Row 12: ssk, k5, k2tog. (7sts total)

Row 14: ssk, k3, k2tog. (5sts total)

Row 16: ssk, k1, k2tog. (3sts total)

Row 18: sl1, k2tog, psso. Cut yarn leaving about a 20 inch yarn tail end (yarn tail end will be used to embroider the swirls). Fall Cowl Leaves layout

Bind off by passing the remaining yarn tail end through the last stitch.

Need more instructions on making the Leaf? Check out my original file on this item-Little Leaf

ASSEMBLY

Block all items, including the leaves.

Fold the cowl in half, placing the right side and left side together, mattress stitch seam along the side.

Picot edging seaming: it is imperative that the item is blocked to open up the picot edging prior to sewing it down. Fold down the picot edging, naturally the picot edging will fold down along the line of the eyelets. Using the long tail of CC sew down the picot edge.

Weave ends in.

Leaves placement: Use the photo shown layout the leaves by one of the sides of the cowl, you can also do a different layout. Sew the leaf in place.

Embroidering the connecting swirls: Use the chain stitch to embroider the swirls. Chain stitch: Thread tapestry needle with yarn tail from the leaf, draw the needle up the knitted fabric and *insert it back where it just came out, looping a short stitch. With the needle above the yarn, hold the yarn with your thumb and draw it through, pulling all the yarn out and leaving the small loop. Repeat from the *. Concentrate on keeping the chains the same size. Tip: if this is your first time embroidering, experiment first on a piece on another type of knitted fabric.

Great link on embroidery basics: http://www.purlbee.com/2007/02/12/embroidery-basics/

Weave all ends in. Block again if necessary.

2 Comments

  • This is so darling! I’ve always loved the look of embroidery and applique on knits! :)

  • Bethany, I had finished the cowl and I “thought” it was already and it was lacking something. Then I remembered the little leaf and I thought, “you know, I bet those would make this look 100% better”. I am very pleased with it. I think I am going to keep it :)

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Oct 20, 2014

Yarn Yammer: Wool of the Andes

Last month when I asked about your favorite yarns, I got a lot of comments about Knit Picks yarns. So I thought this month I would do a review of Knit Picks yarn Wool of the Andes.

I first used Wool of the Andes when I was knitting catalog samples for Knit Picks back in 2005! I really loved it at first try. It is a nice yarn with some beautiful colors. It blocks very well, making stitch patterns come out crisp and well defined.  After making and ‘road testing’ quite a few knitted garments with it, I can say it wears comfortably and well, with no more than your average piling. This yarn is pleasant to work with and I have rarely had issues with it tangling from their center pull ball, and I have rarely run across a knot in the middle as well.

 

Wool of the Andes comes in a few different varieties; there is sport weight, worsted weight and bulky weight. These are all 100% wool and come in a large variety of colors.

There are also tweed and superwash Wool of the Andes available.  For those who like  undyed wool Knit Picks scratches that itch with Wool of the Andes Bare which comes in worsted and bulky weights. If any of you happen to be a spinner, there also is Wool of the Andes roving.

Let’s look at a few of the specifics:

 

 

 Wool of the Andes Worsted Weight

WOTAW

Wool of the Andes worsted weight currently comes in 100 different colors. It is 100% Peruvian wool and Peruvian sheep are a cross between Corriedale (for the sturdiness) and Merino (for the softness). This yarn is sturdy while soft enough for against the skin wear, and it felts beautifully.On a small gauge knitting loom (3/8″ peg spacing) you should get close to the knitting gauge listed below.

Current cost: $2.69 50g / ball.

Fiber Content: 100% Peruvian Highland Wool
Weight: Worsted Weight
Knitting Gauge: 4.5 – 5 sts = 1″ on #6 – 9 needles (4.0mm-5.5mm)
Crochet Gauge: 11–14 sc = 4” on I – K hooks (5.5 mm-6.5 mm)
Yards: 110
Grams: 50
Put Up: ball
Care: Hand Wash/Dry Flat

Wool of the Andes Bulky

WOTAB

This is the bulked up big brother of the Wool of the Andes yarn family. Again it is made with the same 100% Peruvian Highland wool, and is soft and durable. It currently comes in around 30 colors. This yarn is put up in hanks, so that does mean you will need to wind it into a ball to work with it.

Current price: $4.99 100g / hank

Fiber Content: 100% Peruvian Highland Wool
Weight: Bulky Weight
Knitting Gauge: 3 – 3.75 sts = 1″ on #10 – 11 needles (6.0mm-8.0mm)
Crochet Gauge: 8–11 sc = 4” on K-M hooks (6.5mm – 9mm)
Yards: 137
Grams: 100
Put Up: hank
Care: Hand Wash/Dry Flat

Wool of the Andes Sport Weight

wotasf

Wool of the Andes Sport Weight is the thinnest version of this yarn range. Like the others it comes in a good variety of colors which currently is around 50 colors. On a smaller gauge loom like the AIO, you will get a nice result and this yarn will work very well if you want to make a pair of heavier socks on a sock loom, the fabric might be a bit on the firm side but that will keep your toes toasty! The sport weight yarn is also great to use if you plan to do color work, as it will add less bulk to your project!

Fiber Content: 100% Peruvian Highland Wool
Weight: Sport Weight
Knitting Gauge: 6 sts = 1″ on #3-5 needles (3.25mm-3.75mm)
Crochet Gauge: 16–20 sc = 4” on E-7 hooks
Yards: 137
Grams: 50
Put Up: ball
Care: Hand Wash/Dry Flat

 

There are superwash versions of the Worsted, Bulky yarns. This offers you an option that is machine washable and dryeable, but otherwise has the same qualities of the regular yarns. The main difference, aside from price, is that the superwash versions are offered in a smaller range of colors.

Worsted: $3.69 50g / ball   Bare: $6.19 100g / Hank (220 yards)

Bulky: $7.39 100g / Hank    Bare: $6.19 100g / Hank

I hope this helps you when choosing yarns for your projects. It can be hard choosing yarns to buy online,  and the more you know the better!

KnitPicks also happens to be having a 10% sale through Oct. 22, 2014 enter code EXTRATEN at check out!

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Oct 17, 2014

Hashtag Hat

Have some fun and hashtag you!  Great project for beginners using 2 stitch variations. It is sized for youth with an option for an adult.

hashtaghatLoom:  All-n-One Loom, set up for double knit

Yarn:  Patons Shetland Chunky, 25% Wool and 75% Acrylic, 148 yds per skein

Colors used:  #78209 Soft Teal (1 skein) and #78042 Charcoal (1/2 skein)

Stitches:  Stockinette and Rib

Notions Needed:  Knit Hook, crochet hook, measure tape, scissors, darning needle

Finished Size:  Youth=20” and Adult=23-24” head circumference, aprox 9” high from brim to pompom

Gauge:  5 stitches and 10 rows= (2) inches in stockinette

Special Note:  Using the full width of this loom makes a youth/small size hat.  To knit a larger hat as in our sample, we have added a small back panel to increase the width.  Using a larger loom ie the 28” loom will result in larger gauge and larger stitches which will change the shape slightly of the ‘hashtag’.

Instructions:hashtag.angle

Hat Front with ‘hashtag’:

Cast On all pegs or 48 stitches in Rib Stitch using Teal Yarn.  Lay anchor yarn of contrast color yarn.

Work (2) rows in Rib stitch.

Tie on color 2 Charcoal at 2nd peg.  Do not cut the Teal yarn.

Work (1) row in Rib stitch with Charcoal yarn.  Cut and knot.

Work (1) additional row in Rib with Teal yarn.

Change to stockinette and work (2) rows.

Hints:  Mark the center of the loom with a stitch marker or pin.  Next row will be row 1 of the bottom of ‘hashtag’.  Whenever you are working the Charcoal for just the 2 stitches of each upright, weave the 2 consecutive pegs front to back and move over to 2nd upright and weave the 2 consecutive pegs front to back.  Then, weave the Teal yarn in Stockinette weave skipping the upright pegs.  When, you are working the long rows of charcoal, weave the stitches in stockinette, and then weave the Teal yarn in Stockinette weave skipping the charcoal stitches.  Notice in your graph that the uprights will shift over by (1) stitch to give the design an angled look.

Go to center of loom, count back (4) stitches and tie on the Charcoal yarn.  Work the (4) upright stitches.  Note that there will be 3 pegs skipped in center of them.  Lay the charcoal yarn down where you end.  It doesn’t matter which direction you do the front to back for the 2 uprights.  Weave the row with the Teal yarn and hook over.  The ‘hashtag’ design consists of a total of (15) rows.  Once complete, you can cut and knot the Charcoal yarn.  Hat will be completed in Teal Yarn.

Work (7) additional rows in Stockinette.

Change to Rib stitch.  Work total of (14) Rib rows to top of hat.

Work Decrease row on row #6 and row #10.

Decrease Row explained:  decreasing some stitches at top part of the hat will add some shape to the head and keep the top of the hat from being too ‘bunchy’ or bulky.  So, we will do a decrease to 2 stitches on each side of the design.  That will take out a total of 4 stitches on each decrease row and make the top of hat fit much better.  Before doing the weaving and hook- over, go to stitch #8 from left side.  Lift the stitch and place it on peg #9.  Go to stitch #12 from left side.  Lift the stitch and place it on peg #13.  Now you have 2 empty pegs.  Go to right side of loom and count over to peg #8 and place this stitch on adjacent peg to left.  Count over to peg #12 and place this stitch on adjacent peg to left.  Do this to both sides of the board directly across from each other.  You now have (4) empty pegs on each board.  Carefully, lift the stitches and move towards the center of loom.  You want the empties to be at ends of loom.   Now, weave and hook over the row carefully lifting all loops on each peg so that only the one loop remains on the pegs.  Continue working in Rib stitch.

Repeat this decrease process on row #10.  Complete the hat with Rib stitch.

Removing the hat from loom:  Since we are at the top of the hat, we want to create another anchor yarn to gather the top of hat.  Do not bind off.  Instead, cut and knot the working yarn.  Cut another piece of the working yarn about 24” long and thread onto the darning needle.  Pick up the stitches working from one board to the other and allow the stitches to come off the loom onto the yarn.

Small – youth size finishing:  Sew the back seam using invisible stitch with matching yarn, Teal.  Bind off the brim edge stitches.  Gather the top of hat by pulling the yarn securely and tying a secure knot.  Hat is ready for a fun pompom.

Large adult.  In order to add more width to back of hat, we knit a matching piece that will be seamed into the side edges of the hat front.

Cast On 10 stitches in Rib stitch. (More if you want a larger than large hat)  Our 10 sts will add 4” to the size of the hat.  Work this small piece just as you did the hat front only no design is needed and no decreases are needed.  Do work the matching stripe on row 3 to match the front of hat.

Once complete and free of the loom, seam to the hat front using invisible stitch on both sides connecting the 2 pieces into one round hat.  If you use the invisible stitch for the seaming, the seams will not show.  Just be sure to match the Charcoal stripe exactly.  Now, gather each section with the anchor yarns at top of hat.  Tie the yarn securely.

Now you can bind off in one continuous yarn at brim.  Either size, you are ready for the pompom.  We have used both yarns for the pompom in the sample, but you can choose to make it all one color, if desired.  Wrap the yarns around a box or anything that will give you approximately 5” long strands.  Wrap 20-30 wraps; tie in center very securely.   Cut the loops and shake the pompom loose.  Use the yarn tie of the pompom to secure to top of hat.  To finish the hat, use the crochet hook to tuck in any yarn tails that remain from the seaming and knotting.  Shape the pompom as short or as shaggy as desired.  In our sample, we trimmed it up a bit, but left it fairly long.

For a complete look, make a matching Hashtag Scarf. Very cute!

 

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Oct 13, 2014

Whimsical Loom Knits – October 2014

Happy October!  In my little corner of the world, the air has grown chilly, darkness comes earlier, and there are Halloween decorations popping up everywhere.  I thought it would be fun to make a few little ‘spooks’ for this month’s Whimsical Loom Knit project.  I hope you have tons of fun with this pattern.  

Mini Monsters!

IMG_2754 (585x800)

 If you go out on Halloween night,

You’d better not go alone!

It’s creepy out there on Halloween night,

But spookier still at home!

For every little monster that ever was

Will prank and haunt you tonight, because

This is the night to knit up a scary delight!

 

 

Materials

Knitting Loom:  KB Sock Loom 2

Yarn:  Approximately 15-20 yards of a basic worsted weight yarn.  Red Heart Super Saver was used in the samples.

Notions:  Knitting tool, scissors, yarn needle, fiberfill for stuffing

Suggested Embellishments: 

Eyes:  Tiny buttons (6mm), google eyes, fabric paint, yarn, thread, etc.

Mouth:  Yarn, thread, fabric paint, etc.

Hair:  Yarn, felt, etc.

Finished Size:  Approximately 5” in height

Gauge:  Not essential for this project.

Special Techniques

Drawstring Cast-On:  Step 1: Pass the working yarn in front of peg 1.  Pass the working yarn behind peg 2.  Pass the working yarn in front of peg 3.  Pass the working yarn behind peg 4.  Continue weaving the working yarn in front of and behind the pegs until the working yarn reaches peg 1 again.

Step 2:  Lay the working yarn against peg 1, above the wrap from step 1.  Knit the lower wrap over the top wrap.  Pass the working yarn in front of peg 2.  Lay the working yarn against peg 3, above the wrap from step 1.  Knit the lower wrap over the top wrap.  Pass the working yarn in front of peg 4.  Continue working in this manner until the working yarn reaches peg 1 again.  Cast on is now complete.  Continue on as directed in the pattern.

Adding a Gathering Thread:  Cut a 12” length of yarn and thread it on to the yarn needle.  Push the yarn needle up under the stitch on peg 1.  Pull the length of yarn out through the stitch, stopping when an inch or two remains at the bottom of the stitch. Move to the next peg and pull the yarn needle up under the stitch.  Pull the length of yarn until all of the slack is gone between the two pegs.  Continue working in this manner until the gathering line has been pulled up under the last stitch in the round. Remove the yarn needle.  Leave the gathering line in place.  It will be used later to shape the monster’s neck.  Continue on as directed in the pattern.

3 Stitch I-Cord:  Using the double E-wrap cast-on method, cast on 3 stitches.  *Working yarn will be at peg 3.  Take the working yarn behind peg 2 and peg 1.  Bring the working yarn around the front of peg 1 and lay it across pegs 1, 2, and 3.  Knit peg 2, then peg 1, then peg 3.  Repeat from * as directed in pattern, or until I-cord reaches the desired length.  Gently pull on the cord every few inches to help set the stitches.

Bind the I-cord off by moving the stitch on the second peg over to the first peg, placing it above the stitch on the peg.  Knit the bottom stich over the top stitch.  Move the stitch from peg 3 over to peg 1, placing it above the stitch on the peg.  Knit the bottom stitch over the top stitch. With the working yarn, wrap peg 1 and knit it.  Cut the working yarn, leaving a yarn tail measuring about 4”.  Draw the working yarn out through the last stitch remaining on peg 1, and gently pull on the yarn tail to secure the bind off.  Weave in all yarn ends.

Instructions

Head and Body:

Prepare the loom to work over 18 pegs, in the round.  Choose a yarn color for the head.  Using the drawstring cast-on method, cast on 18 stitches.  Work 10 rows using the u-wrap knit stitch.

Add a gathering thread.  (See special techniques)

If desired, switch to a new color for the body.   Work 15 more rows using the u-wrap knit stitch.  Remove from the loom using the gathered bind off method, but do not gather yet.  Set aside.

 Limbs (Make 4, or more):

Using the same color that the body was worked in, cast on 3 pegs.  Work a 3 stitch I-cord for 6 rows.  Switch to chosen head color, if desired.  Work 3 stitch I-cord for 4 more rows.  Bind off and set aside.  Repeat this process for the remaining limbs.

Finishing:

Work with the head and body piece first.  Gather the top of the head closed by pulling on the yarn tail from the drawstring cast-on.  Use the yarn needle to weave the tail in.

Stuff the head section with fiberfill.  Gather the neck area by pulling on the yarn tails of the gathering thread.  Secure the neck shaping by tying a knot in the gathering thread.  Use the yarn needle to weave in the ends of the gathering thread.

Stuff the body section with fiberfill.  Gather the body closed by pulling on the yarn tail from the gathered bind off.  Use the yarn needle to weave the tail in.

Use the yarn needle to sew the limbs to the body.  Attach the arms near the neckline; attach the legs at the bottom of the body.  Weave in any remaining yarn tails.

Now for the best part – embellishing!  Give your monster(s) hair.  Or horns.  Eye(s).  Mouth.  Fangs.  Scars.  Whatever your imagination can scare up.  Only, maybe avoid giving them a laboratory brain marked A B Normal…

Tip:  Each monster is knit as directed in the pattern.  Different looks can be achieved by varying the colors and types of fibers used while knitting, as well as using a variety of embellishments.  Let your creativity run wild!

IMG_2759 (600x800)

Frankenstein is embellished with button eyes. Mouth and scar are embroidered on. Hair is added a strand at a time. It is tied into the top of the head, the plies are split, then the hair is mussed up a bit.

IMG_2757

Voodoo doll is embellished with one button eye and a button heart. Mouth and second ‘eye’ are embroidered on. He is also brushed with dark eye shadow to give him a dirty appearance.

IMG_2758 (600x800)

Monster is knit in a strand of basic worsted weight acrylic, along with a thin, fuzzy novelty fiber to give him a furry look. He is embellished with one googly eye, backed by a slightly larger felt circle.

            

4 Comments

  • I think these are the sweetest spooks ever! You’ve really come up with some darling gouls for us to loom knit, Jenny! Spooktacular job!!! :D

  • Love!!!

  • Thank you, Bethany and Dale!

  • give me an idea for a different helloween , they will be suprised !

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Oct 10, 2014

Breast Cancer Awareness Wristers

Breast Cancer Awareness Wristers Blog

A simple pair of wristers to demonstrate your support for the cause. The ribbon is formed by creating an icord and then sewing it to the completed wristers. Exclude the ribbon and you have a regular pair of wristers.

Pattern Information

Knitting loom: Adjustable Hat loom, 44 pegs. Pattern can also be done on the All-n-One loom.

Yarn: Approx 120 yards of worsted weight wool. Cascade 220 in Tutu was used in sample (less than 1 skein). Approx 5-8 yds of contrasting pink color.

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle.

Other: Elasticized ribbon (to pass through the eyelets). Sample used 5/8” Fold Over Elastic by Dritz-1 yd package.

Gauge: 11 sts x 17 rows= 2 inches in stockinette

Abbreviations

K=knit stitch (not u-stitch, not flat stitch).

P=purl stitch

K2tog=knit two stitches together. Move stitch from peg 1 to 2. Knit peg 2. Move loop from peg 2 over to peg 1.

YO=Yarn over. Ewrap the peg. On the row after the ewrap, undo the ewrap, place the yarn ladder in front of the peg, then work the peg.

St(s)=stitch(es)

Rep=repeat

Pattern notes: Worked as a flat panel then seamed at the side.

INSTRUCTIONS

Wrister

Leave a 20 inch beginning yarn tail, cast on 44 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1, 3, 5: k to end of row.

Row 2, 4, 6: p to the end of row.

Next 14 rows: k to the end of row.

Next row: *k2, p2; rep from * to the end of row.
Next row: *p2, k2; rep from * to the end of row.

Rep last two rows: 1 more time.

Next row (eyelet row): *k2tog, yo; rep from * to the end of row.

Next row: *p2, k2; rep from * to the end of row.

Next row: *k2, p2: rep from * to the end of row.

Next row: *p2, k2; rep from * to the end of row.

Next row: *k2, p2; rep from * to the end of row.

Next row: k to the end of row.

Rep last row 24 more times.

Next row: *k2tog, yo; rep from * to the end of row.

Next 3 rows: k to the end of row.

Bind off with basic bind off method. Leave a long tail for seaming purposes.

Block.

Small Breast Cancer Ribbon

Using the contrasting color pink, cast on 2 stitches.

Using the figure 8 method, create an icord that is approximately 16 rows long.

Bind off leaving a long tail.

Thread long tail through tapestry needle, fold the i-cord ribbon in half and use the long tail to secure it in this folded position. Using the yarn tail, sew the ribbon to the top side area of the wrister.

ASSEMBLY

Fold over at the top, along the eyelets for the area by the fingers. Thread tapestry needle with the yarn tail coming from the bind off edge. Sew the small flap in place—see pictures for guidance on how to complete this objective. When the fold is completely sewn, use the thread to mattress stitch along the top side, approximately one-inch along the side. Weave ends in.

Thread tapestry needle with yarn coming from the cast on edge, mattress stitch along the side, stopping approximately one-inch away from the top seam—you should have about a one-inch opening for the thumb.

Pass the elasticized ribbon through the eyelets along the wrist, make a small bow. Sew the bow, do not sew the bow to the knitted fabric, so the bow does not come undone.

 

Wristers Top Seam Close 1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Seaming the top

Wristers Top Seam Close 2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Top section seamed.

Wristers Seam

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mattress stitch along side .

 

 

5 Comments

  • Very nice…feminine and sweet! :)

  • i like matte non pink ribbon but I wish on it so I am deaf woman .

  • Thank you :)

  • These are super sweet, and such a great way to support Breast Cancer Awareness.

  • Hi! I’m new here. Just received my All in One Knitting Board. Still trying to figure out how to work with it. Hope to be able to do some great projects.

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Oct 7, 2014

Stitchology II

Puff Stitch

Happy Autumn!  This is my absolute favorite time of year.  I simply can’t get enough of it!  Puff Stitch SquareI am thrilled by simple things like hay mazes, big orange pumpkins in a field, chilly mornings, and candy corn.  It’s a season that is full of reasons to celebrate…of course it makes it all the better that my birthday is also in October, lol. ;)

In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intension for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)

This month we’re going to celebrate the Fall Season by introducing the Puff Stitch, which greatly resembles pumpkins in a field, all connected by trailing vines.  Of course, this stitch will be terrific during all other times of the year, as well. It employs a really marvelous way to create elongated knit stitches on our looms, which result in all those lovely little puffs.

 

Puff Stitch Square

Puff Stitch

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 75 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Lion Wool in Pumpkin)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter)

Pattern Notes:

This stitch pattern would apply itself very nicely to a cozy hat, or a baby blanket.  To work this pattern in the round for a hat, use the Repeating Pattern Rows chart, and make sure to read it from right to left for each row, rather than alternating sides each time.  Also, cast onto your loom in a clockwise direction, using a number of pegs that is divisible by 10—the number of stitches required for each pattern repeat.

For flat pieces of a greater size, begin with the Set Up Rows, then simply increase the number of Repeating Pattern Rows for the length and width required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.

The elongated knit stitch, notated in the pattern as k², is created using the following method (the row numbers are as you would find the steps in the Puff Stitch Square pattern further below):

*to see a photo enlarged, just click to open, then click to open again.


Knitting Chart Key k2

Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Pumpkin Patch (Puff) Square Chart

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!  For help with reading charts, please see the Stitchology I post for a detailed explanation, and you’ll be ready to go!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Repeating Pattern Rows

Pumpkin Patch (Puff) Stitch Chart

Row 1:  p6, k²3, p1

Rows 2:  k²5, p5

Row 3:  p5, k²5

Row 4:  k²5, p5

Rows 5:  p5, k²5

Row 6:  k²5, p5

Rows 7 & 8:  p6, k²3, p1

Row 9:  k²5, p5

Row 10:  p5, k²5

Row 11:  k²5, p5

Row 12:  p5, k²5

Row 13:  k²5, p5

Row 14:  p6, k²3, p1

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 32 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Repeat the following 2 row pattern 3 times, for a total of 6 rows:

Row a: k32

Row b: p32

Main Pattern Rows

Repeat the following 14 row pattern 3 times, for a total of 42 rows:

Puff Stitch Square 3D Row 1:  p1, work Row 1 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 2:  p1, work Row 2 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 3:  p1, work Row 3 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 4:  p1, work Row 4 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 5:  p1, work Row 5 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 6:  p1, work Row 6 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Rows 7 & 8:  p1, work Row 7 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 9:  p1, work Row 9 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 10:  p1, work Row 10 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 11:  p1, work Row 11 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 12:  p1, work Row 12 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 13:  p1, work Row 13 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Row 14:  p1, work Row 14 of repeating pattern to last stitch, p1.

Finishing Rows

Repeat the following 2 row pattern 3 times, for a total of 6 rows:

Row a: p32

Row b: k32

Puff Stitch Square-angleBind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block to an 8” x 8” measurement.  If you’d like to give your puffs more of a 3D affect, you can carefully place small balls of plastic wrap under each little puff during the pinning process of the blocking. I found that Glad Cling Wrap worked really well for this as it has a bit of stick to it, which helped the balls stay in place.

Afghan Notes:

If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″

 

7 Comments

  • i sure hope you will do a video on this.puff stitch square. Personally, I learn better by watching it actually being done.. It’s so pretty

  • Hi Jen :) I’m not sure if there will be a video in the next few days, but possibly in the next few weeks. ;) I really think that this stitch is so easy that you could definitely get it by following each of the tutorial photos step by step. Build your loom knitting skills by just diving in and giving it a try…I bet you’ll be surprised at how quick and easy it is to accomplish! :D

  • I was wondering how you do row 14 on the top of the puff stitch.

  • Hi Jean :)

    You just work it as the chart states, working normal purls in the spots at the previous elongated knits, and start over again with new elongated knits in the places where the new puffs begin. You’ll be purling with the the three elongated stitches as you would usually purl…there will just be a little extra yarn there to purl with. ;)

  • Your puff square is fabulous, Bethany! Great work!

  • Thank you for the great instructions and the pictures were most helpful. It is an easy stitch. I have senior moments so I got extra practice lol. It reminds me of polka dots and I could see this as a scarf with 60′s retro pink, orange, and white. Thanks again.

  • Oh, that would be really cute, Cindy! The first swatch I made on this was created with a different yarn of a more reddish color and all of my family *separately* said this stitch looked like “Meatballs in Sauce!” Lol. I like pumpkins, puffs, and polka dots much better. ;)

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