Sep 19, 2014

Vintage Wrap


By Denise Layman

When my mother gave me this yarn from Carodan Farms a few years ago I had no idea what to do with it. That was until I found a 123 year old knitting loom on E-bay! It was an awesome find. Then I found the book that goes with it: Stewart’s Manual of Crochet Point Loopation. The stitch used for this wrap is from this 123 year old loom knitting manual, and is a perfect match for the yarn! Loom knitting has a bit of a lost history, so I am trying to bring back some stitches loom knitters used in the past. With this versatile pattern give this old stitch new life in a modern style garment or you can wear it like the loom knitters of the 1880’s might have.  So enjoy working this up and wearing a little bit of loom knitting history!


Knitting Loom: Adjustable Hat Loom in Large gauge setting, 16 pegs.

Yarn:  approx. 400 yards of worsted weight wool yarn.  (It is especially important to use a wool or other yarn that has some ‘grab’ to it. This pattern is perfect for hand spun wool, it will not work well with acrylic or other yarns unless they have a brushed  finish  to them)  Two skeins of Carodan Farm worsted weight yarn in the color Bracken were used in the sample.  

Notions: Tapestry Needle, Knitting tool.

Gauge: Gauge is not so important in this pattern.

Pattern Notes:

This pattern is written so that you are working in a clockwise direction around the loom. So the beginning of your row will be on the right, and you will work your way left as you wrap.

The spread stitch is worked using two pegs, each stitch is worked one at a time over the two pegs as explained in the pattern below.

The ‘wrong side’ of your piece while working it on the loom will end up being the ‘right side’ of your finished wrap.

The spread stitch can be used in other applications, but it is definitely a large gauge stitch, it does not work well with anything but a large gauge loom.


Cast on/set up:

 To set up for this stitch:

  1. Make a slip knot and place it on the 1st peg. [The peg to the left of your holding peg. (If working with a straight rake the sixth peg from the left side of your rake) (you will need the pegs on the right to increase))].
  2. Wrap working yarn around the 1st peg, 10 times. Peg 1 should have 11 loops.
  3. Take working yarn to 2nd peg and wrap it 11 times.
  4. Go to 3rd peg and wrap it 11 times.
  5. Go to 4th peg and wrap it 11 times.
  6. Go to 5th peg and wrap it 11 times.
  7. The 6th peg will be wrapped only once. (This will be peg A as seen below):

Vintage Wrap1 vintage wrap2

Spread Stitch:

The stitch is worked over two pegs. We will call them A and B.

Peg A is the peg on the left and peg B is the peg on the right.

Peg B will have an odd amount of loops, in this case 11.

Peg A will have one loop, with the working yarn coming from the front between pegs A and B, towards the back of peg B.

  1.  Bring the working yarn around and in back of peg B in the opposite direction (clockwise around the peg) and wrap around it once.


  1. Lift the top 3 stitches up and over that wrap.(They can be lifted all at once or one at a time, it makes no difference)

vintage wrap3



  1. Take the working yarn and e-wrap around peg A and knit the bottom loop over.  (You will see that you are essentially making repeated figure 8’s around these two pegs.)

vintage wrap4



Repeat these three steps until there is only one loop left on peg B.

Then shift to the right. Peg B will now be peg A, and the next peg to the right will be peg B.

Work these two pegs as above, and continue until you have worked all the way back to the beginning of your row.

There will then be 1 loop on every peg, so wrap 10 times around each peg for a total of 11 wraps, an again once around the last peg on the left and repeat.

NOTE: after the first row you will have 2 wraps on the end peg on the left when you set up the row. Before starting the spread stitch knit over that stitch so that only one loop remains.

Begin Increase section: VintageWrapclose600

To increase you will simply ‘cast on’ and extra stitch by making 11 wraps on the empty peg just to the right of the beginning of your row before wrapping the others. The working yarn will be wrapped around this peg in a clockwise manner, once you have all 11 wraps bring the working yarn between the first two pegs toward the inside of the loom and wrap the remaining stitches in the row as normal.

Increase the piece by one ‘stitch’ every other row until you have a total of 15  stitches + the peg that has a single wrap on the left end of the row for a total of  16  pegs in use.

Work even until your wrap is half the desired total length, then begin to decrease as described below.

Decrease section:

Decreases are made on the right end of the piece where the increases were made. A decrease, like the increases, is made after the entire row has been worked and there is one loop left on each peg.

To decrease: simply lift the loop on the right most peg, and move it over to the left. This loop will be considered wrap #2 on this peg so you will wrap 9 more times around the peg to make a total of 11.

Wrap and knit with the spread stitch as above, decreasing in this manner every other row until you are back down to 6 pegs.

At that point decrease by one stitch every row until there are only two pegs left.

Work that last row and when there is only one loop on each peg lift the loop from the left peg over and place it on the peg on the right.

Lift the bottom loop over the top one and knit off.

If making a Fichu, or open shoulder wrap, cut your working yarn leaving a 6 inch tail and pull the tail through the last loop remaining and remove it from the loom.

If you are finishing this as a poncho, or ‘bow tie’ style wrap then leave a tail about 3-4 yards long for seaming, and pull it through the loop to secure, and remove it from the loom.


Note: Remember as you finish this piece what was the ‘wrong side’ or back when you were knitting, is going to be the ‘right side’ or front when you are finished with the garment.

For shawl/simple wrap or fichu wrap.

(This is most likely how loom knitters in the 1880’s may have used this stitch pattern in a garment.)

Simply weave in the ends and block as desired.

For re-enactors you may wish to knit a ‘slide’ (directions below) to hold the wrap together in the center front at the neckline.

To make a cross over style fichu, simply add a hook and eye or other closure on the ends of the wrap, place the widest part of the wrap across your shoulders, cross it in the front and secure the ends at the center lower back with the closure.

 Poncho/bow tie style wrap:

To make a poncho or bow tie style wrap you will need to seam the piece in a spiral. Lay the piece out on a table and  basically roll it up starting with one end matching up the edges as you go work with the piece until you have a ‘roll’ that will be wide enough to go around your shoulders. You will want to make this a little looser for the poncho, and a little on the snug side for the bow tie style wrap.

To seam, use the yarn tail you left at cast off and run the working yarn through the spread stitches at the edge of the garment alternating back and forth between the two edges being joined.

Once you have the piece joined try it on and adjust the seam for flexibility as needed. Then trim and weave in the ends.

Slide piece for Fichu, or Bow Tie style wrap:

To make a ‘slide’ to gather the center of your bow tie wrap, simply take some of the yarn (or a contrasting yarn if desired) and make a strip about 2 inches wide on your loom in stockinet stitch. Make this piece as long as you desire, or need to wrap around and gather wrap, or secure the wrap in the center and cast off.

For a Fichu slide, simply seam the cast on and cast off end of this piece to create a loop.

For the Bow Tie style wrap, wrap the ‘slide around the part of the wrap that you wish to gather and seam the ends.

You may wish to run a few stitches through the wrap itself to secure the ‘slide’ in place. Weave in the ends and enjoy!

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Sep 16, 2014

Loom FAQs – What is Blocking?

Hello!  I am Renita Harvey, and I am so excited to be part of the wonderful KB team.  I have been loom knitting since I was a child.  My first looms were a spool loom and a small 12 peg round loom.  About the age of 12, my parents gave me a Spin Knit loom.  This was my first large loom that I made hats and scarves on.  This was quite a few years before Knifty Knitter looms came along.  Only thing I had to teach myself was the booklet that came with the loom.  It only contained very basic information.  E-wrap knit only.  Not even a purl stitch!  Now we have wonderful loom knit books written by very talented people and have a wealth of information at our fingertips on the internet.  But almost every day, I see questions about “how do I do this or that” in loom knitting.  Well, I would like to answer some of those Frequently Asked Questions or Loom FAQs in this column. Look for my column on the third Monday of every month.

Loom FAQs

Today I would like to address a very common question.

What is blocking?

Blocking is a finishing technique used in knitting and crochet.  It is a way to flatten a piece, helps with straightening and sizing pieces that are to be seamed together, helps set the stitches, and opens up lace stitches.

But after that is said, there are always even more questions to be answered.

When and why do you block something?

If you are making a sweater or another project that will be pieced or seamed together, you will need to block each piece to size and shape before assembly.  Please note that while you will be able to make some smaller pieces a little larger and make pieces match in size, if your gauge or tension is not correct, you will not be able to completely resize it with blocking.

If you are knitting a lace pattern, you will want to block the project to open up those beautiful lace stitches.  It does make a world of difference with lace.

What fibers can you block?

You can block every kind of fiber.  The type of fiber depends on the type of blocking.

What items do I need to block?

  • A place to block the items
  • Rust-proof pins
  • Blocking wires (optional)
  • Steam machine or steam iron for steam blocking
  • Spray bottle for spray blocking


Do I need a blocking board?  Are they important?

First you will need an area large enough for your item.  One such item is a blocking board.  Blocking boards are large boards covered in a tightly woven thick fabric printed with a grid over a piece of foam, cork, or acoustic board for the pins to stick in.  While I personally do have one, they are not necessary to block an item.  Sometimes they are just not large enough for the project.  Some people may not have the space to store one.  Kits may be bought to build your blocking board.  But again it’s not as essential as having a space to do it.

You can use a bed, the floor, or even interconnecting foam blocks like floor mats or preschool letter blocks.  Any of these surfaces can be covered with a waterproof liner like a trash bag and then covered with towels or blankets so you can pin the item into place.

Why do I need rust-proof pins?

Which leads me to a very important tool for blocking.  Rust-proof pins.  Make sure they are rust-proof since all types of blocking involve water.  Unless they are rust-proof, the pins will rust.  And rust stains cannot be removed from the yarn.  Let me say “rust-proof” one more time for good measure…

Other questions I have seen involve tools that can be used for blocking.

What are blocking wires and why would I use blocking wires?

Blocking wires are wires that are woven into the edges of the work to help keep the shape of the edge.  If you do not use wires, you sometimes get a scalloped edge when the work dries and draws up in between the pins if they are not close enough together.  There are 2 kinds of blocking wires.  Rigid wires for the straight edges, and flexible wires for the curved edges.  You do not need to use as many pins when using wires, but blocking wire are not required to block an item.

Do I need a steam machine or can I just use an iron?

While steam machines are nice to have and make it easier to steam block items, they are not necessary.  A steam iron will work.  You just need to remember not to get too close to the work since you have a large heat source on the iron while you do not have that with a steamer.  But you can not just iron an item in order to block it.  You can cause a lot of damage to the work if the iron is placed directly on it.

How do you block something?

This just happens to be the most important question of all.  How?  Well there are 3 ways to block a project.

  1. Wet blocking
  2. Spray blocking
  3. Steam blocking

Let take each one separately.

Wet Blocking

You can wet block any natural fibers.  You cannot wet block acrylics.  Acrylics need to be steam blocked.  We will discuss why in Steam Blocking.

First you need to soak the item for at least 15 minutes so that all the fibers are fully saturated.  You then will squeeze out the excess water.  Do not wring or twist!  This will stretch the stitches out of shape completely.  After squeezing out as much water as I can, I like to put a couple of towels on the floor, lay the item on top, then add another towel on top to cover the item.  Then I simply stand on it in my bare feet.  Sounds crazy, I know.  But standing on all parts of the item will finish squeezing out the excess water without twisting and cause it to dry faster.

Then you pin your item on the prepared blocking area to the shape and size needed.  You will place your pins about 2″ or less apart if you are not using blocking wires.  You can use a lot less pins with the wires.  Allow the item to completely dry before removing it.

Spray Blocking

You can spray block all natural fibers, but not acrylics.  Spray blocking is like wet blocking except you do not soak the item first.  You first pin your item to the prepared blocking area in the same manner as wet blocking.  Then you use a spray bottle of water and spray the item until it is completely wet.  Allow the item to dry before removing it.

Steam Blocking

All types of fiber can be steam blocked.  Why can acrylics only be steam blocked?  Acrylic yarn is basically plastic and only heat from steam can set the stitches.   Water alone cannot do this with acrylic while it will work with natural fibers.  But you cannot iron it either.  Direct heat from an iron will either completely melt the yarn or “kill” the fabric.  “Killing” acrylic is not quite as violent as it sounds.  It just means that the acrylic has melted to the point that it has lost its stretch and body but has not been completely ruined.  There are times killing acrylic is useful, but not when you are wanting to block the item.

First you will pin the item to the prepared blocking area in the same manner as wet or spray blocking.  Then you will steam the item in small areas at a time until the entire piece is steamed and damp.  If using an iron, remember to not get the iron surface too close to the item.  And also be careful not to touch the pins or wires, if using wires, as the steam will cause them to get hot as well and will burn you.

Allow the item to dry completely before unpinning it.

Sounds like a lot of work.  And most times, it is.  But the finished result is always amazing!





  • Thank you for the FAQ.
    This is off topic but can someone do a tutorial on the stockinette curl? I can’t do the basic tweed HAT that’s included in the loom instructions. Although I do the ribbing eventually the stockinette starts to curl and it causes the ribbing to also pull up. The hat is made IN THE ROUND. I see many hats made of stockinette so there must be a way to do this and remain in the stockinette pattern. Many sites say just to pick another stitch. Thank you.

  • Very informative. Well done Renita!

  • Thanks Renita. I never understood why wet blocking didn’t work with my acrylic pieces. This article means a recent UFO may finally see completion!

  • Excellent first article, Renita! :) You’ve done a very thorough job of explaining a really important step in knitting…can’t wait to see what you will have next!

  • Thanks Renita I noticed some people never heard or know about blocking. Keep up the good work. God bless you always!

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Sep 12, 2014

Mystic Shawl- Double knit

mysticshawlJust enough warmth – cover the shoulders and back with this beautiful shawl.  Knit in Open Braid Stitch with soft, random stripes, and knit in 3 easy pieces. Great for beginner to advanced knitters. One size will fit most.  48” from back tip to front edges.


Loom: 28” Knitting Board + ext, or original 28″ Knitting Board

Notions: Knit Hook, Crochet hook and darning needle

Yarn: Worsted weight roving yarn, 260 yds per skein. green=(5) skeins  blue=(1) skein

Sides of this shawl are rectangular.  The center back is knit in a square shape that joins the front with shoulder seams, and falls to point in back.

Long Front Sides:  (knit 2)

Cast On (56) stitches with green yarn.  Lay anchor yarn. See box for review of Open Braid Stitch.

With each color change, we will cut yarn and knot after tying on the next color

Knit (12) rows in green.

Tie in Blue yarn.  Cut green and knot.

Knit (2) rows in blue.

Tie in Green yarn.

Knit (18) rows.

Tie on Blue yarn.

Knit (4) rows.

Tie on Green yarn.

Knit (20) rows.

Tie on Blue yarn.

Knit (6) rows.

Tie on Green yarn.

Knit(10) rows.

Bind Off board.

Bind Off at anchor yarn.

Knit the 2nd piece of Long Front Side

Square Back Piece:

Cast On (64) Stitches in Green.

Lay anchor yarn.

Knit (8) rows in green.


Open Braid Stitch:

Weave yarn around needle #1 on top board, down to needle #4 on bottom board. (closest to knitter). Weave every other needle to end.  End stitches will be consecutive.  Return to cover all needles skipped.  Hook over all.

Tie in Blue.

Knit (4) rows.

Tie in Green yarn.

Knit (18) rows.

Tie in Blue yarn.

Knit (3) rows.

Tie in Green yarn.

Knit (18) rows.

Tie in Blue yarn.

Knit (3) rows.

Tie in Green yarn.

Decrease (1) stitch at beginning of each row for (8) rows.

After first decrease, start row on needles #2 and #5.  Use this row start on every other row.  In other words, for these (8) decrease rows, start row 1,3,5,7 on needles #2 and #5.  The other rows, start on the usual #1 and #4.  This adjustment will keep the Open Braid in correct sequence.

Bind Off of board and Anchor yarn.


Sew one short end of Front piece to Back matching to decrease edge.

Sew 2nd side of Front to Back matching the other side of decrease edge.

The decrease corner of back is at the back of neck.


Optional:  You may choose to add fringe to the front bottom edges.  You may also want to add a hidden snap at front neckline to secure the shawl.  The shape of the shawl stays put on your shoulders and our sample does not have a fastener.










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Sep 8, 2014

Whimsical Loom Knits – September 2014

Hello! My name is Jenny Stark.  I am so excited to be joining you here at Knitting Board Chat!  Once a month, I will be sharing a whimsical little project that you can make with your KB looms.  These projects will be fast and fun – perfect for squeezing in to your busy schedule.  After all, you know what they say about all work and no play…  So, let’s chase those doldrums away with a little bit of yarn!

Layered Loopy Flower

This darling little flower is a great way to use up little bits of yarn left over from other projects.  Make a handful of flowers and use them to embellish hats, bags, hair clips, cards, etc.

IMG_2661 (1024x768)

Loom:  Kb Hat Loom, set up for small gauge.  (This project only requires 2 pegs- one of the 9 peg rails was used for the samples.)

Yarn:  Approximately 5 yards of a #4 yarn.  Each layer of this flower uses about 2.5 yards of yarn.  Work it all in one color, or use two different colors for variety.  Samples use various yarns, including Mosaic by Bernat, Boutique Unforgettable by Red Heart, and Sheep(ish) by Caron.

Notions:  Knitting tool, scissors, yarn needle, button, needle and thread.

Gauge:  Not important for this project.

Size:  About 2″ in diameter.


Flower (make 2)

Cast on 2 pegs.

Knit peg 2, twelve times.

Move the stitch on peg 2 over to peg 1.  Knit the bottom stitch over.  (1st petal loop now created)

*Cast a new stitch on to peg 2.

Knit peg 2, twelve times.

Move the stitch on peg 2 over to peg 1.  Knit the bottom stitch over.  (next petal loop now created)

Repeat from * until there are six petals total.

Bind off:  Cut yarn, leaving a 5″ yarn tail.  Knit the last stitch and pull the yarn tail out through the last stitch.  Gently pull on the yarn tail to tighten the bind off.

Forming the flower:  Your knitted piece will be a bit of a jumble when you first take it off of the loom:

IMG_2665 (800x600)

Turn it over, and straighten it out.

IMG_2666 (800x600)

Now it is time for a little needle magic.  Thread the yarn tail from the bind off side through the eye of your yarn needle.  Pass the needle through the bottom of the first petal (where the cast on tail is):

IMG_2667 (800x600)

then pass the needle down through the two loops at the bottom of the next petal:

IMG_2669 (726x800)

Continue to stitch down through the two loops at the bottom of each petal, gently gathering the center of the flower as you work.  When you are finished forming the flower, pass the needle through the center of the flower to the back side.  Your finished flower will look like this:

IMG_2670 (800x600)

Set the first flower aside and make the second flower.

Finishing: Stack one flower on top of the other.  Use the yarn tails to sew the top flower to the bottom flower.  Weave in all ends.

Using the needle and thread, sew a button to the center of the flower. (If preferred, the button can be applied with hot glue.)  

Now – go and make a handful of flowers!  Happy embellishing!

IMG_2672 (800x600)


  • That makes a very sweet flower. Thanks for sharing your creativity.

  • I love it! Such a cute embellishment for any kind of project…or just as a pin or a hair band! I’m so glad we’ll be hearing regularly from such a talented loomer! :)

  • oh i love it….thanks for sharing :)

    Love the last line ‘Now – go and make a handful of flowers!’ :D

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Sep 6, 2014

Meadowbrook Shawl


During the month of September, we will be bringing you Shawl September, four beautiful Shawl designs, released every Friday. We will start the month with Meadowbrook, a lovely lacey shawl with a simple lace design through out the shawl. It is rectangular in shape making it versatile as a shawl, or a scarf, or if you seam both ends together a cowl.

Knitting loom: All-n-One Knitting loom; pattern uses 93 pegs.

Yarn: Approx 750 yds of Malabrigo Silky Merino wool. Sample was knit using  color Manzanilla Olive

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle (to weave ends in).

Gauge: Approx 10sts x 18 rows= 2 inches

Size: Approx 18″ wide x 74″ Wet Blocked.



K=knit stitch.

P=purl stitch.

K2tog=knit two stitches together as one stitch.

YO=Yarn over.

Ssk=knit two stitches together as one stitch.

CDC=Central double decrease.


Instructional How To:

K2tog: A knit two together–takes place over 2 stitches. The decrease slants to the right.  Peg 1 is on the right, Peg 2 is on the left. The knitter is going on a Right to Left direction on the loom. Move the loop from peg 1 over to peg 2. Peg 1 is empty (open), Peg 2 has two loops on it. When you reach peg 2, work both loops on the peg as one loop.

SSK: A slip, slip, knit–takes place over 2 stitches. The decrease slants to the left. Peg 1 is on the right, peg 2 is on the left. The knitter is going on a Right to Left direction on the loom. Move the loop from peg 2 over to peg 1. Peg 1 has two loops , peg 2 is empty (open). When you reach peg 1, work both loops on the peg as one loop.

YO:Yarn over, also known as Yarn Forward. Ewrap the peg in a counterclockwise direction. On the following row when you reach the peg and  you need to knit the peg, undo the ewrap and place the strand of yarn in front of the peg and treat the strand as the loop on the peg.

Central double decrease:  Takes place over 3 pegs. Peg 1 is on the right, peg 2 is in the middle, peg 3 is on the left. The knitter isMeadowbrook1600 going on a Right to Left direction on the loom. Move the loop from peg 2 over to peg 1. Move loop from peg 3 over to peg 2. Take yarn behind peg 1. Knit peg 2. Move the loop from peg 2 over to peg 1. Lift the bottommost 2 loops up and off the peg. Move the remaining loop back to peg 2. Peg 1 and peg 3 are empty.



Cast on 93 sts, prepare to work a flat panel.

Edge rows

Row 1, 3, 5, 7 (right to left row): k to the end of row.

Row 2, 4, 6, 8: p to the end of row.

Main Body

Next 10 rows: Maintain the garter stitch pattern over the first 4 sts and last 4 sts of the row. Center 85 sts, work in the horseshoe stitch pattern from chart below (multiple of 12+13).

Repeat last 10 rows: 45 more times

End of Main Body

Edge rows

Next 8 rows: work in garter stitch (total of 4 garter stitch ridges).

Bind off. Weave ends in. Wet block to measurements.




Need a little extra help with the lace stitch pattern? We have broken down below Row 1 of the lace stitch pattern for you.

Recommendations: move the stitches before working the row.

How to:

Knit pegs 1 to 4. (Garter stitch on edge stitches).

The first two pegs of lace portion shown in the chart (pegs 5 and 6 on your loom), on every other row (every odd row), you will do a k2tog. As follows:

Step 1: Lift loop from peg 1 and hold it.

Step 2: Move loop from peg 2 over to peg 1.

Step 3: Place the loop from step 1 back on peg 1.

Step 4: knit peg 1, treating both loops as one loop.

The following portion of the instructions are the part that you will repeat until you reach the last 12 pegs of the shawl stitches (not counting the 4 edge stitches); the original chart shows it inside the blocked out square. 

Mark the next 12 pegs as follows (peg 1 should be on your right side, then count 12 pegs to the left) Number 1 is in red as it is the edge stitch that you already created above, so we are not going to count it

13, 12, 11, 10,9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1.

Instead, we are going to renumber them as follows:

12, 11, 10,9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1, 1.

Notice how we have two number 1s, one is for the edge stitch (the k2tog you created above) and the other is for the lace stitch pattern repeat. Ignore the one in red for the rest of the row instructions.

Lace repeat section

**Step 1: Move loops from peg 2 to 1, from 3 to 2, from 4 to 5, from 5 to 4. Leave peg 5 open (with no loop).

Step 2: Knit peg 1 to 4

Step 3: YO (ewrap) peg 5.

Step 4: knit peg 6.

Step 5: Do a YO on peg 6—the ewrap will be on top of the loop that is on the peg.

Step 6: Knit from peg 7 to peg 10.

Step 7: move loop from peg 12 over to peg 11.

Step 8: move loop from peg 1 (from the next block of lace) over to peg 12.

Step 9: knit peg 12.

Step 10: move loop from peg 12 to peg 11. Lift bottommost two loops up and off the peg.

Step 11: move the loop remaining on peg 11 over to peg 12. (At this point, you should have peg 1 and 11 open (empty).

Step 12: move loops as follows: from peg 10 to 11, from 9 to 10, from 8 to 9, from 7 to 8, and lastly, move the ewrap that is on top of peg 6 over to peg 7.

Repeat from **Step 1, until the last 16 pegs (until you reach peg 77 on the knitting loom).

From peg 79-89, we will work the last chart repeat as follows over 12 pegs (pegs 90-93 are the garter stitch edge stitches):

Step 1: Move loops from peg 2 to 1, from 3 to 2, from 4 to 5, from 5 to 4. Leave peg 5 open (with no loop).

Step 2: Knit peg 1 to 4

Step 3: YO (ewrap) peg 5.

Step 4: knit peg 6.

Step 5: Do a YO on peg 6—the ewrap will be on top of the loop that is on the peg.

Step 6: Knit from peg 7 to peg 10.

Step 7: Move loop from 12 to 11.

Step 8: Knit peg 11.

Step 9: Move loop from 11 to 12; 10 to 11; 9 to 10; 8 to 9; 7 to 8, YO to peg 7.

End of lace portion

Knit the last 4 pegs for the garter stitch ridge.

Row 1 of the lace stitch pattern is complete.

Row 2: purl 4, k to last 4 sts, purl 4. 



  • IS there any way to download these pattern instructions?

  • Is there any way to download these instructions?

  • Highlight everything, copy and paste onto a word document.

  • Highlight everything, copy and paste onto a word document.

  • This is so so so stunning, Isela! I absolutely love this stitch pattern!

  • This is a beautiful shawl, Isela! Your work is always fantastic!

  • It is beautiful .I am new at looming but Ithink I will try it and hope it works wish me luck.

  • ** Beautiful work! I have a question regarding peg #3. The instructions are as follows:

    Step 1: Move loops from peg 2 to 1, from 3 to 2, from 4 to 5, from 5 to 4. Leave peg 5 open (with no loop).

    Step 2: Knit peg 1 to 4

    ** per step 1 peg #3 is left empty. Per step #2 I’m supposed to knit peg 3. So do I ewrap peg 3 so it can be knitted? Thanks :-)

  • Thank you!

  • Thank you!

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Sep 1, 2014

Stitchology I

Herringbone Stitch & Working with Charts

Herringbone Square angleHi!  My name is Bethany Dailey and I’m new here at Knitting Board Chat. I am so happy to loom along with you!  In this monthly column we’re going to be working on some exciting new stitch patterns, as well as a few new techniques thrown in for good measure.  My intension for our yarn play is to provide all the know-how for you to be able to work the new stitch; any charts, photos, or videos you may need; as well as a pattern to create an 8” x 8” square.  As we go along in our looming journey, we should be able to create lovely pieced afghans with our squares, as I like to know that we’re going somewhere while swatching, don’t you?  You can think of it as our Stitch Sample Afghan—a stitch dictionary right at your fingertips, keeping your legs warm, lol. ;)

The Ins and Outs of Chart Reading

First up is the Herringbone Stitch.  This is a nice and easy stitch involving repeating rows of knits and purls.  The slightly tricky part of this stitch will be to keep proper count while working the pattern.  To help us along in this process we can use a couple of aids…the first of which is a knitting chart.

Here is the basic stitch chart for this particular pattern:

Herringbone Stitch-chart

When reading a knitting chart, you will be starting at the bottom right and working your way up the chart, from row to row.

Notice how the numbers across the bottom are listed from right to left?  This is because you will be casting onto your looms first from left to right, then your first row will be worked from right to left, matching up each peg number with each of the numbers on the chart bottom.

The numbers which are running up the sides of the chart represent your row count.  As you can see, row number 1 will be worked from right to left, as that is where that row number is designated on the chart.  Row number 2 will be worked from left to right, as that is where you will find the number 2 listed.

By alternating the sides that the row numbers are listed, you are given the clue that this pattern is meant to be worked as a flat panel. If this was a chart that was meant to be worked in the round, you would see each of the row numbers all listed on the same side, because in the process of knitting in the round, you would always be starting each row from that same spot as you worked around the loom.

Knitting Chart Key with grey copy

Now that you know which direction to read the chart, it’s time to decipher what the chart is actually saying.  For this, we need to take a look at the Chart Key.  Here is where the symbols you see in the chart are listed in knitting terms, along with their abbreviations.  For each symbol on the chart, a corresponding stitch will be worked in that exact spot of your row.

The herringbone stitch is a simple one, containing only 2 stitches: knit and purl.  Where you spot a blank square on the chart, you will knit.  Where you spot a dot, you will purl.  It’s as simple as that! :)

Oh, I did mention a couple of aids, right?

The second aid that I love to use while knitting pretty much every project is a good set of stitch markers— or peg Notionsmarkers, as we who love to loom knit tend call them.  These can be pretty much anything that will fit over your pegs, but won’t get in the way of the creation of your stitches.  I love to use them to mark the first and last pegs used in a pattern, as well as any other helpful places that remind me of what I’m supposed to be knitting.   In the case of the herringbone stitch, a good place for them is at the start of every pattern repeat during the row.

Another essential-to-me aid for keeping my place in a pattern I’m working is a good reliable row counter.  This can be a store bought one, a cell phone app, or even something as simple as marking little chicken scratches on a piece of paper at the end of every row.  However you want to do it, a row counter helps avoid lots of frustration in the long run.

Herringbone Stitch Square

Herringbone Stitch

Items Needed

Loom: Authentic Knitting Board Adjustable Hat Loom: 2 rounded pieces + 3 peg connectors, with pegs in all holes for a 3/8” gauge.  The Sock Loom 2 or the All-n-One Loom could also be used.

Yarn: approx. 105 yards Worsted Weight (Sample uses Patons Classic Wool Worsted in Jade Heather)

Notions: Loom tool, yarn needle, scissors, measuring tape.  (Also helpful: peg markers, row counter)

Pattern Notes:

With the beginning of the school year and those chilly Autumn days, this would be a terrific pattern to use as a cozy scarf for both guys and gals!  Simply increase the number of Main Pattern Rows for the length required, then complete with the Finishing Rows.

When the pattern uses the term “knit” or “k”, please use the true knit stitch or the u-stitch, not the e-wrap.


Here is the entire pattern chart for the 8” x 8” square:

Herringbone Square-chart

Everything you need to know about knitting your square is included in the above chart.  Believe it or not, you can actually create your square without looking at another thing!

But, don’t worry…I am also providing you with the step by step instructions below. ;)

Repeating Pattern Rows

Herringbone Stitch-chart

Row 1:  k3, p2, k1, p2, k2

Row 2:  k1, p2, k3, p2, k2

Row 3:  k1, p2, k5, p2

Row 4:  p1, k2, p1, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1

Step by Step Instructions:

Cast onto your loom from left to right, using a total of 37 pegs. (Sample uses Chain Cast On)

Set Up Rows

Repeat the following 2 row pattern 3 times, for a total of 6 rows:

Row a: k37

Row b: p37

Main Pattern Rows

Repeat the following 4 row pattern 15 times, for a total of 60 rows:

Row 1:  k3, work Row 1 of repeating pattern to last 4 stitches, k4.

Row 2:  p3, k1, work Row 2 of repeating pattern to last 3 stitches, p3.

Row 3:  k3, work Row 3 of repeating pattern to last 4 stitches, k4.

Row 4:  p3, k1, work Row 4 of repeating pattern to last 3 stitches, p3.

Finishing Rows

Herringbone SquareRow a:  k3, work Row 1 of  repeating pattern to last 4 stitches, k4.

Row b:  p37

Row c:  k37

Row d:  p37

Row e: k37

Row f:  p37

Bind off all stitches loosely. (Sample uses the Basic Bind Off)  Weave in ends and trim close to work.

Block lightly to 8” x 8” measurement.

Afghan Notes:

If you are intending this square to be part of an afghan, you may wish to make up to 3 or 4 additional squares.  We will be sharing at least 12 of these patterns for you to use in your blanket.  Use the following general measurements to decide how many of each of the 8″ x 8″ squares you will need, rounding up as necessary:

  • Baby Blanket: 30″ x 36″
  • Children: 42″ x 48″
  • Lapghan: 36″ x 48″
  • Twin Bed Afghan: 60″ x 85″
  • Queen Bed Afghan: 90″ x 95″



  • Bethany, it looks great! I would like to make a scarf with this pattern.
    Thanks a lot!

  • Thanks Bethany for doing this very much appreciated

  • I love this stitch. I have to wait until after I go to the craft fair in October but I can’t wait to see all the stitches and make some of these squares. Thank you!! :)

  • Congratulations on your new column Bethany.
    Look forward to seeing more Stitchology

  • Thank you. I love this pattern.

  • This is wonderful…. can’t wait to see more!!!

  • Bethany, Congratulations to you and I guess to all of us who follow you.
    This is exciting! I love this stitch and look forward to learning more
    techniques and stitches. Hurray!

  • Always glad to see Bethany’s patterns. You’ll make a great addition to the blog! (c;

  • Congratulations, again, Bethany! This is a wonderful article and lesson. Thank you! Although I have done this before you have made it much easier for me to break down the chart and pattern.I really have to work to get back to my looming. I also think I am going to have to start another notebook for your columns!! Well done!! Looking forward to your future articles!!

  • Great article, Bethany! And the Herringbone sampler looks fabulous! I’m looking forward to seeing the next stitch pattern.

  • If I wanted to do a hat on a round loom, would I have to change any of the instructions? I’m new at this.

  • Hi Deena :)

    In order to make a hat using these instructions, you would first of all be working in the round in a clockwise direction. This would change the way you would read the chart to every row starting from the right to the left, rather than alternating directions.

    Also, you would need to use only the 10 peg repeating stitch pattern chart, rather than the square pattern chart, because you wouldn’t need the borders of garter stitch.

    Because the stitch pattern uses 10 pegs, your hat would need to be knit using a total number of pegs divisible by 10…ei: 30, 50, 70, etc.

    Hope this helps! I’d love to see a photo of your hat when you’re all done! :)

  • Thanks for the instructions, Bethany! That helps tremendously!

  • Can I use the cable cast on method or will this make it more difficult to stitch my finished panels together?
    Thank you for the expert explanation of charts and including both charts and written directions. I am looking forward to looming along/ learning along with you thru all the panels. I am starting this weekend, as soon as my daughter returns my loom! Hum.. maybe I’ll get her one for Christmas. Thanks for taking the time.

  • Hi Cindy! :)

    The Cable Cast On is a bit loose and lacy, and also might be a tad different than your bind off, which will always create a bit of a difficulty when attempting to create true squares. If you are using the mattress stitch to seam the squares together, it might not matter, except that you would end up with looser stitches on the back sides of the seams. ;) Having said all that, my favorite cast on, and on the one that most matches the Basic BO is the Chain CO, sometimes referred to as the Crochet CO.

    I am so happy you’ll be looming along with us! :D

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