Nov 1, 2014

Men’s Beanie

mens beanie

 

A simple beanie designed for him in mind. Worked in simple, no fuss stitch pattern, with a super soft and airy wool yarn.

Knitting loom: Adjustable Hat Loom

Yarn: 140 yards of worsted weight merino wool. Malabrigo worsted in Paris Night was used in sample.

Notions: knitting tool and tapestry needle.

Gauge: 8 sts x 17 rows= 2 inches in stitch pattern.

Size: 9 inches x 9.5 inches when laid flat.  Model’s head size is 23-1/4 inches.

AbbreviationsTop of hat small

K: knit stitch (not ewrap)

P: purl stitch

Rep: repeat

Sts: stitches

Rnd(s): round(s)

INSTRUCTIONS

Set knitting loom to small gauge at 80 pegs.

Cast on 80 sts, prepare to work in the round.

Rnd 1-10: *k1, p1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rnd 11: k to the end of rnd.

Rnd 12: *k3, p1; rep from * to end of rnd.

Rep Rnds 11 and 12: 32 more times

Next rnd: Move stitch from all odd numbered pegs to the even number peg; example from peg 1 to peg 2, from peg 3 to peg 4; etc. K to the end of rnd, (treat both loops on the even number pegs as one loop). At the end of this round, knitting loom should have one empty peg and a peg with one loop, all the way around.

Remove with gather removal method.Mens Beanie Side

Weave ends in. Block lightly.

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Oct 27, 2014

Loom FAQs – How Do I Read a Pattern?

Loom-FAQs1

Another question that is often asked is “how do I read a pattern?”  Most times, it’s not even a question.  People will flat out say they don’t know how to read a pattern.  Or that patterns are too hard to read.  Some will even say they don’t care to learn when there are videos to watch.  Well I will say this:  If you don’t learn at least the basics of reading patterns, then you are limiting yourself to what you can make since not all patterns have videos.  So today I would like to address some of those Frequently Asked Questions in regards to reading a pattern.

Where do I start when I am reading a pattern?

I always recommend to start by reading the pattern fully first.  See what you need and when you need it.  Most times if it’s a pattern that has new skills, it can be overwhelming to read through it first.  That is ok.  Do not panic.  It happens to the best of us.  Then you take a deep breath and proceed gathering your supplies.  Once that is done, then you start.  But before we get into starting, let’s discuss how a pattern is usually written.

Patterns can usually be broken down into 3 parts.  I will be using parts of my Paving Rainbows hat pattern for an example.  You can find the complete pattern here:  http://knittingboardchat.com/blog/index.php/archives/1363

 

Part 1:

The first part is the list of items you need to complete the project.  This is where you will find which loom is required, yarn recommended, and other notions needed.  Patterns will list the yarn needed in number of skeins, yards, or weight.  If you are using a different yarn than the one specified and it’s listed by skeins, balls, or yardage, then you will just need to compare the yardage of the yarn you are wanting to use with the one that was used in the pattern to make sure you have enough since not all skeins or balls have the same amount of yarn in them.

The Paving Rainbow Stones Hat pattern

     Loom: All-n-One loom set for 72 pegs. Sample made on the All-n-One.

     Yarn: 1 skein Bernat Mosaic in Calypso – Color A (or any medium weight yarn color of your choice). 1 skein Red Heart Super Saver in Black – Color B (or any medium weight yarn color of your choice)

     Notions: Loom tool, Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Part 2:

The second part is the abbreviations, gauge, and pattern notes.  In stand-alone patterns available on blogs or other sites, this will follow the list of items.  If it is a pattern in a book, the abbreviations will most likely be found at the front or back of the book.  But the gauge and pattern notes, if any, will still be in this location.

What is gauge?

Gauge tells you how many stitches and rows are in a certain number of inches so you know if your tension is correct when knitting an item that needs to be a certain size.  So if it reads,

In stockinette, 20 stitches x 30 rows = 4 inches

you will take a ruler and measure your swatch or work.  If you count 20 stitches in 4 inches on a row in all knit stitches and 30 rows in 4 inches, then you have achieved gauge.

Some patterns will not have it listed if gauge is not important.  Or sometimes the designer forgot to list it.  Oops…

What are pattern notes?

Pattern notes are the special instructions or little helpful tidbits provided by the designer to help clarify how the pattern is to be worked.

      Pattern Notes

· Use only one strand of yarn.

· Carry yarn to the inside of loom when not using. Do not cut.

      Abbreviations

· K – flat or u-wrap knit

· P – purl

· S – slip (skip)

· Rnd(s) – Round(s)

Part 3:

The third part is the actual instructions.  Most times it will be written out by rows or rounds.  Some patterns may be written in steps, like I did with my corkscrew tutorial.

     INSTRUCTIONS

E-wrap cast on all pegs.

Rnds 1 – 18 – With color A, K all

Place cast on loops back on pegs, knit over

Rnd 19 – K all

Drop Color A to inside of loom. Add Color B.

Rnd 20 – With color B, K all

Rnds 21-23 – P all

Drop Color B to inside of loom. Pick up Color A.

Rnds 24-29 – With color A, K3, *S2, K6*, repeat from * to * until last 5 pegs, S2, K3

So let’s start at the beginning.  First you will cast on.

What cast on and bind off methods do I use if the pattern doesn’t specify?

In this pattern, I specify an e-wrap cast on.  But when a particular cast on or bind off isn’t specified, then you just use the one that you like best.

Then you start with the first row or round.  In this pattern, rounds 1 – 18 are all the same, so instead of writing out each round, I combined them all into one line.  So for those 18 rounds, you will knit all the pegs.

Now let’s skip to after the brim is made.  I made a note to drop the first color and add the second.  It looks a little out of place here, but there are times where the instructions are needed in the pattern as you go along which is why the instructions for the color change is between the rounds.  Sometimes the designer will write those at the end of the row or round so there is not a break like you see here.

What does it mean when it says to “repeat from *”?

Let’s now look at rounds 24 – 29.  In this pattern, I put an * at the beginning and end of the part that is to be repeated.  Sometimes it will just be at the beginning of the repeat and then say “repeat from * to the end of the row”.  But what does that line mean?  We have seen rounds that are all knits or all purls.  But now we have a mixture of stitches with repeats.

The round reads “With Color A, K3, *S2, K6* repeat from * to * until the last 5 pegs, S2, K3”.  If that were written out for all the pegs, it would read like this:

With color A, knit 3 pegs, slip 2 pegs, knit 6 pegs, slip 2 pegs, knit 6 pegs, slip 2 pegs, knit 6 pegs, etc., until only 5 pegs remain in the round.  Then slip 2 pegs and knit 3 pegs.  Then you start the next round.  Or if it was written peg by peg, it would be: knit, knit, knit, slip, slip, knit, knit, knit, knit, knit, knit, slip, slip, knit, knit, knit, knit, knit…

So you can see why the rows or rounds are condensed down into abbreviations and repeats.  Otherwise, a simple pattern would be the size of a small book.

The more complicated repeats will often involve parenthesis as well as asterisks.

So to start off when learning to read a pattern, you may want to write each row or round out so you can better understand it.

And to keep from being overwhelmed by the entire pattern, I would recommend you concentrate on one row at a time.  Just go stitch by stitch and then row by row.  If something doesn’t seem to make sense then look at the previous row and the following row.  Sometimes it will make more sense when you see what is just below or just above the row you are working.

What do the abbreviations mean?

Reading patterns is like reading code.  The reason for abbreviations is for saving space, especially in books and magazines.  Here are some of the more common abbreviations.

 

BO – bind off

CA – color A

CB – color B

CC – contrasting color

CO – cast on

Dec – decrease

EW – e-wrap

Inc – increase

K – knit

K2tog – knit 2 together

KO – Knit over

M1 – make 1 increase

MC – main color

P – purl

P2tog – purl 2 together

PSSO – pass slipped stitch over

Rep – repeat

Rnd (s) – rounds(s)

S or sl – slip

SSK – slip, slip, knit those 2 stitches together

W&T – wrap and turn

YO – yarn over

What knit stitch do I use if it doesn’t say?

Most times if the pattern just says knit then it is a true or traditional knit stitch.  Some people like to call it a reverse purl.  You can use the u-wrap, flat knit, or even e-wrap, if you are needing to achieve a certain gauge due to your tension.  If the pattern says “no e-wrap”, then it is not recommended to use it since it really is a different stitch entirely.  It is taller and looser and will alter the finished size.

Why are patterns not all written the same?

This is a great question.  I really don’t have a good answer to that one except to say that, while most designers try to keep uniformity to patterns so that they are easy to read, some people are beginners, want to share their designs, and just don’t know how patterns are most commonly written.  And sometimes designers will write a pattern how they like to read them.

Why can I not just use videos?

There usually are not videos for all patterns.  And people cannot randomly make videos without the designer’s permission since it violates copyright.  But when working a pattern and you come across a technique you are unfamiliar with and the written instructions for that technique are confusing, videos are very helpful, and I would recommend using them.

How do I write a pattern?

If you are writing a pattern for the first time and are unsure of what to do, look at other patterns on blogs or on Ravelry.  Then try to follow suit in whatever way makes sense to you.  Most times, our first efforts seem to fall short of our expectations.  Just take a deep breath and try your best.  We all start somewhere and learn.

I really hope this helps get you started on reading patterns.  The worst thing that could happen is that you will need to rip the project out and start over.  But it is only yarn after all.  It is designed to be taken apart and reknit.

 

4 Comments

  • Excellent post, Renita! :) I would only add to your first bit about reading the pattern through entirely first and then possibly feeling overwhelmed or confused…a lot of times the steps that are confusing at the front end make way more sense when you are actually at that section and ready to knit it. I say this as an encouragement not to give up when that original confusion hits upon the first read-through. Just dive in and have fun! :D

    Once again…fantastic advice!

  • Thank you, Bethany! That means a lot to me. While I did say that later, I realize I should have addressed it at the beginning for those who don’t read the entire article.

    Just taking it stitch by stitch and row by row often answers those confusing questions we might have after the first read through.

  • Thank you very much. This was very informative and helped to clear up a few thing for me

  • Hi Renita,
    Where was a person like you when I first started learning knitting and reading patterns soo many years ago! Very good help for beginners! Thank you for a really great article that will be a help to many! Sue

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Oct 24, 2014

Swirling Leaves Cowl

Fall Cowl

Fall Cowl by Isela Phelps

The trees are changing color and perfect evening temperatures call for a cup of hot cocoa and pumpkin cookies. The Swirling Leaves cowl was inspired by all the beautiful colors of nature during this time of year.

Knitting loom: Afghan Knitting Loom, 141 pegs used.

Yarn: Approx 4400 yds of Aran weight wool blend. Breakdown: 300 yds of main color (MC), 50 yds of contrasting color (CC), 25 yds of second contrasting color (SCC), 25 yds of third contrasting color (TCC). Sample used Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran in Beige (Main color, 300 yards). Accent colors—Knit Picks Swish Worsted in Allspice (CC), Dublin (SCC), Cornmeal (TCC).

Notions: knitting tool, tapestry needle.

Gauge (blocked): 10sts x 15rows= 2 inches

Pattern notes: The cowl is worked as a flat panel, the flat panel then is seamed to a circular. The picot edging is worked as part of the body of the cowl. The leaves are loom knitted then sewn to the cowl. The connecting branches are embroidered on.

Abbreviations

K=knit stitch (do not substitute with e-wrap).

P=purl stitch

Sts=stitches

MC=Main color

CC=Contrasting color

SCC=Second contrasting color

TCC=Third contrasting color

K2tog=knit two stitches together. Decrease slants to the right. How to: over 2 pegs, peg 1 is on the right, peg 2 is on the left. Move loop from peg 1 over to peg 2. Knit peg 2, treating both loops as one loop. Move stitch over to peg 1.

SSK=slip, slip knit. Decrease slants to the left.  How to: over 2 pegs, peg 1 is on the right, peg 2 is on the left. Move loop from peg 2 to peg 1. Knit peg 1, treating both loops as one loop.

M1=make one, an increase. Before you can do the M1, you need to have a peg empty where you need the increase, move the stitches outwards to create an empty peg.  Reach for the ladder going from one peg to the next peg, twist it and place it on the peg. When you reach the point where you created the twist, knit the peg as normal.

INSTRUCTIONS

COWLFall Cowl

Cast on 141 pegs, prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1: k1, *k1, k3; rep from * to the last 4 sts, k4.

Row 2: k4, *k3, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.

Rep Rows 1 and 2 until item measures approx. 11 inches from cast on edge.

Cut MC, join CC.

Next 4 rows: k to the end of row.

Next row: *k2tog, yo; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Next 4 rows: k to the end of row.

Bind off with basic bind off method.

Leaves

Make 3-one with each color (CC, SCC, TCC)

Over 11 stitches (pegs)

Leave a 15 inch beginning yarn tail, cast on 3sts (working yarn should end by peg 3 after cast on. Row 1 should go in a left-right direction.) Prepare to work a flat panel.

Row 1 and all other odd number rows: knit entire row

Row 2: k1, (m1, k1) twice. (5sts total)

Row 4: k2, m1, k1, m1, k2. (7sts total)

Row 6: k3, m1, k1, m1, k3. (9sts total)

Row 8: k4, m1, k1, m1, k4. (11sts total)

Row 10: ssk, k7, k2tog. (9sts total)

Row 12: ssk, k5, k2tog. (7sts total)

Row 14: ssk, k3, k2tog. (5sts total)

Row 16: ssk, k1, k2tog. (3sts total)

Row 18: sl1, k2tog, psso. Cut yarn leaving about a 20 inch yarn tail end (yarn tail end will be used to embroider the swirls). Fall Cowl Leaves layout

Bind off by passing the remaining yarn tail end through the last stitch.

Need more instructions on making the Leaf? Check out my original file on this item-Little Leaf

ASSEMBLY

Block all items, including the leaves.

Fold the cowl in half, placing the right side and left side together, mattress stitch seam along the side.

Picot edging seaming: it is imperative that the item is blocked to open up the picot edging prior to sewing it down. Fold down the picot edging, naturally the picot edging will fold down along the line of the eyelets. Using the long tail of CC sew down the picot edge.

Weave ends in.

Leaves placement: Use the photo shown layout the leaves by one of the sides of the cowl, you can also do a different layout. Sew the leaf in place.

Embroidering the connecting swirls: Use the chain stitch to embroider the swirls. Chain stitch: Thread tapestry needle with yarn tail from the leaf, draw the needle up the knitted fabric and *insert it back where it just came out, looping a short stitch. With the needle above the yarn, hold the yarn with your thumb and draw it through, pulling all the yarn out and leaving the small loop. Repeat from the *. Concentrate on keeping the chains the same size. Tip: if this is your first time embroidering, experiment first on a piece on another type of knitted fabric.

Great link on embroidery basics: http://www.purlbee.com/2007/02/12/embroidery-basics/

Weave all ends in. Block again if necessary.

6 Comments

  • This is so darling! I’ve always loved the look of embroidery and applique on knits! :)

  • Bethany, I had finished the cowl and I “thought” it was already and it was lacking something. Then I remembered the little leaf and I thought, “you know, I bet those would make this look 100% better”. I am very pleased with it. I think I am going to keep it :)

  • Hi Isela!!!

    Your patterns are just wonderful!! Thank you soooo much for sharing your talent.

    I purchased the Book Loom Knitting For Babies & Toddlers.

    I am currently working on the Baby Bib……… The size of mine is not the same size as yours and wanted to know what I was doing wrong.

    When I count stitches in the photo it looks like there are actually twice as many as what the pattern calls for???

    Thank you sooo much for your help!!

    Prim Blessings

  • That is DARLING! (as always, you inspire!)

    Questions:
    1. For the knit stitch did you use the reverse of the purl? Or did you use flat or u-stitch? I know sometimes you can interchange them and sometimes it’s best not to.
    2. What were the finished dimensions of the cowl? It looks large (that’s not a bad thing, I was am just curious – also, perhaps your model is ultra-petite.)
    3. How much shape did the cowl hold? Did it drape with the yarn you used or was it as upright as shown in the top pic. In one pic she’s holding it up so it was difficult to tell if this was done for photography purposes or if it stood up on it’s own.

    Love this!!! The colors, the design…it’s all lovely!

  • Alyna,
    1. Knit stitch used was the reverse of the purl. For all of my knits, I typically use the reverse of the purl as it is the one with the most height and the closest to needle knit look. If you use the flat or u-stitch know that yours will look a lot tighter and it may not drape as much because the stitches are so tight.
    2. Dimensions–I am not home to check, but it was wide, I want to say about 20-24 inches in width. I was aiming for a cowl that went a little lower in the front to keep more of the chest warm.
    3. The cowl has drape with the yarn I used. If you use a yarn that doesn’t have as much drape, like an acrylic yarn, the cowl will be a little bit more stiff and sit more upright. The model is holding the cowl up so that the leaves can show. If she wasn’t holding it up, the cowl sits down folded around the neckline.

  • Is it length or width that you are missing?

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Oct 20, 2014

Yarn Yammer: Wool of the Andes

Last month when I asked about your favorite yarns, I got a lot of comments about Knit Picks yarns. So I thought this month I would do a review of Knit Picks yarn Wool of the Andes.

I first used Wool of the Andes when I was knitting catalog samples for Knit Picks back in 2005! I really loved it at first try. It is a nice yarn with some beautiful colors. It blocks very well, making stitch patterns come out crisp and well defined.  After making and ‘road testing’ quite a few knitted garments with it, I can say it wears comfortably and well, with no more than your average piling. This yarn is pleasant to work with and I have rarely had issues with it tangling from their center pull ball, and I have rarely run across a knot in the middle as well.

 

Wool of the Andes comes in a few different varieties; there is sport weight, worsted weight and bulky weight. These are all 100% wool and come in a large variety of colors.

There are also tweed and superwash Wool of the Andes available.  For those who like  undyed wool Knit Picks scratches that itch with Wool of the Andes Bare which comes in worsted and bulky weights. If any of you happen to be a spinner, there also is Wool of the Andes roving.

Let’s look at a few of the specifics:

 

 

 Wool of the Andes Worsted Weight

WOTAW

Wool of the Andes worsted weight currently comes in 100 different colors. It is 100% Peruvian wool and Peruvian sheep are a cross between Corriedale (for the sturdiness) and Merino (for the softness). This yarn is sturdy while soft enough for against the skin wear, and it felts beautifully.On a small gauge knitting loom (3/8″ peg spacing) you should get close to the knitting gauge listed below.

Current cost: $2.69 50g / ball.

Fiber Content: 100% Peruvian Highland Wool
Weight: Worsted Weight
Knitting Gauge: 4.5 – 5 sts = 1″ on #6 – 9 needles (4.0mm-5.5mm)
Crochet Gauge: 11–14 sc = 4” on I – K hooks (5.5 mm-6.5 mm)
Yards: 110
Grams: 50
Put Up: ball
Care: Hand Wash/Dry Flat

Wool of the Andes Bulky

WOTAB

This is the bulked up big brother of the Wool of the Andes yarn family. Again it is made with the same 100% Peruvian Highland wool, and is soft and durable. It currently comes in around 30 colors. This yarn is put up in hanks, so that does mean you will need to wind it into a ball to work with it.

Current price: $4.99 100g / hank

Fiber Content: 100% Peruvian Highland Wool
Weight: Bulky Weight
Knitting Gauge: 3 – 3.75 sts = 1″ on #10 – 11 needles (6.0mm-8.0mm)
Crochet Gauge: 8–11 sc = 4” on K-M hooks (6.5mm – 9mm)
Yards: 137
Grams: 100
Put Up: hank
Care: Hand Wash/Dry Flat

Wool of the Andes Sport Weight

wotasf

Wool of the Andes Sport Weight is the thinnest version of this yarn range. Like the others it comes in a good variety of colors which currently is around 50 colors. On a smaller gauge loom like the AIO, you will get a nice result and this yarn will work very well if you want to make a pair of heavier socks on a sock loom, the fabric might be a bit on the firm side but that will keep your toes toasty! The sport weight yarn is also great to use if you plan to do color work, as it will add less bulk to your project!

Fiber Content: 100% Peruvian Highland Wool
Weight: Sport Weight
Knitting Gauge: 6 sts = 1″ on #3-5 needles (3.25mm-3.75mm)
Crochet Gauge: 16–20 sc = 4” on E-7 hooks
Yards: 137
Grams: 50
Put Up: ball
Care: Hand Wash/Dry Flat

 

There are superwash versions of the Worsted, Bulky yarns. This offers you an option that is machine washable and dryeable, but otherwise has the same qualities of the regular yarns. The main difference, aside from price, is that the superwash versions are offered in a smaller range of colors.

Worsted: $3.69 50g / ball   Bare: $6.19 100g / Hank (220 yards)

Bulky: $7.39 100g / Hank    Bare: $6.19 100g / Hank

I hope this helps you when choosing yarns for your projects. It can be hard choosing yarns to buy online,  and the more you know the better!

KnitPicks also happens to be having a 10% sale through Oct. 22, 2014 enter code EXTRATEN at check out!

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Oct 17, 2014

Hashtag Hat

Have some fun and hashtag you!  Great project for beginners using 2 stitch variations. It is sized for youth with an option for an adult.

hashtaghatLoom:  All-n-One Loom, set up for double knit

Yarn:  Patons Shetland Chunky, 25% Wool and 75% Acrylic, 148 yds per skein

Colors used:  #78209 Soft Teal (1 skein) and #78042 Charcoal (1/2 skein)

Stitches:  Stockinette and Rib

Notions Needed:  Knit Hook, crochet hook, measure tape, scissors, darning needle

Finished Size:  Youth=20” and Adult=23-24” head circumference, aprox 9” high from brim to pompom

Gauge:  5 stitches and 10 rows= (2) inches in stockinette

Special Note:  Using the full width of this loom makes a youth/small size hat.  To knit a larger hat as in our sample, we have added a small back panel to increase the width.  Using a larger loom ie the 28” loom will result in larger gauge and larger stitches which will change the shape slightly of the ‘hashtag’.

Instructions:hashtag.angle

Hat Front with ‘hashtag’:

Cast On all pegs or 48 stitches in Rib Stitch using Teal Yarn.  Lay anchor yarn of contrast color yarn.

Work (2) rows in Rib stitch.

Tie on color 2 Charcoal at 2nd peg.  Do not cut the Teal yarn.

Work (1) row in Rib stitch with Charcoal yarn.  Cut and knot.

Work (1) additional row in Rib with Teal yarn.

Change to stockinette and work (2) rows.

Hints:  Mark the center of the loom with a stitch marker or pin.  Next row will be row 1 of the bottom of ‘hashtag’.  Whenever you are working the Charcoal for just the 2 stitches of each upright, weave the 2 consecutive pegs front to back and move over to 2nd upright and weave the 2 consecutive pegs front to back.  Then, weave the Teal yarn in Stockinette weave skipping the upright pegs.  When, you are working the long rows of charcoal, weave the stitches in stockinette, and then weave the Teal yarn in Stockinette weave skipping the charcoal stitches.  Notice in your graph that the uprights will shift over by (1) stitch to give the design an angled look.

Go to center of loom, count back (4) stitches and tie on the Charcoal yarn.  Work the (4) upright stitches.  Note that there will be 3 pegs skipped in center of them.  Lay the charcoal yarn down where you end.  It doesn’t matter which direction you do the front to back for the 2 uprights.  Weave the row with the Teal yarn and hook over.  The ‘hashtag’ design consists of a total of (15) rows.  Once complete, you can cut and knot the Charcoal yarn.  Hat will be completed in Teal Yarn.

Work (7) additional rows in Stockinette.

Change to Rib stitch.  Work total of (14) Rib rows to top of hat.

Work Decrease row on row #6 and row #10.

Decrease Row explained:  decreasing some stitches at top part of the hat will add some shape to the head and keep the top of the hat from being too ‘bunchy’ or bulky.  So, we will do a decrease to 2 stitches on each side of the design.  That will take out a total of 4 stitches on each decrease row and make the top of hat fit much better.  Before doing the weaving and hook- over, go to stitch #8 from left side.  Lift the stitch and place it on peg #9.  Go to stitch #12 from left side.  Lift the stitch and place it on peg #13.  Now you have 2 empty pegs.  Go to right side of loom and count over to peg #8 and place this stitch on adjacent peg to left.  Count over to peg #12 and place this stitch on adjacent peg to left.  Do this to both sides of the board directly across from each other.  You now have (4) empty pegs on each board.  Carefully, lift the stitches and move towards the center of loom.  You want the empties to be at ends of loom.   Now, weave and hook over the row carefully lifting all loops on each peg so that only the one loop remains on the pegs.  Continue working in Rib stitch.

Repeat this decrease process on row #10.  Complete the hat with Rib stitch.

Removing the hat from loom:  Since we are at the top of the hat, we want to create another anchor yarn to gather the top of hat.  Do not bind off.  Instead, cut and knot the working yarn.  Cut another piece of the working yarn about 24” long and thread onto the darning needle.  Pick up the stitches working from one board to the other and allow the stitches to come off the loom onto the yarn.

Small – youth size finishing:  Sew the back seam using invisible stitch with matching yarn, Teal.  Bind off the brim edge stitches.  Gather the top of hat by pulling the yarn securely and tying a secure knot.  Hat is ready for a fun pompom.

Large adult.  In order to add more width to back of hat, we knit a matching piece that will be seamed into the side edges of the hat front.

Cast On 10 stitches in Rib stitch. (More if you want a larger than large hat)  Our 10 sts will add 4” to the size of the hat.  Work this small piece just as you did the hat front only no design is needed and no decreases are needed.  Do work the matching stripe on row 3 to match the front of hat.

Once complete and free of the loom, seam to the hat front using invisible stitch on both sides connecting the 2 pieces into one round hat.  If you use the invisible stitch for the seaming, the seams will not show.  Just be sure to match the Charcoal stripe exactly.  Now, gather each section with the anchor yarns at top of hat.  Tie the yarn securely.

Now you can bind off in one continuous yarn at brim.  Either size, you are ready for the pompom.  We have used both yarns for the pompom in the sample, but you can choose to make it all one color, if desired.  Wrap the yarns around a box or anything that will give you approximately 5” long strands.  Wrap 20-30 wraps; tie in center very securely.   Cut the loops and shake the pompom loose.  Use the yarn tie of the pompom to secure to top of hat.  To finish the hat, use the crochet hook to tuck in any yarn tails that remain from the seaming and knotting.  Shape the pompom as short or as shaggy as desired.  In our sample, we trimmed it up a bit, but left it fairly long.

For a complete look, make a matching Hashtag Scarf. Very cute!

 

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Oct 13, 2014

Whimsical Loom Knits – October 2014

Happy October!  In my little corner of the world, the air has grown chilly, darkness comes earlier, and there are Halloween decorations popping up everywhere.  I thought it would be fun to make a few little ‘spooks’ for this month’s Whimsical Loom Knit project.  I hope you have tons of fun with this pattern.  

Mini Monsters!

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 If you go out on Halloween night,

You’d better not go alone!

It’s creepy out there on Halloween night,

But spookier still at home!

For every little monster that ever was

Will prank and haunt you tonight, because

This is the night to knit up a scary delight!

 

 

Materials

Knitting Loom:  KB Sock Loom 2

Yarn:  Approximately 15-20 yards of a basic worsted weight yarn.  Red Heart Super Saver was used in the samples.

Notions:  Knitting tool, scissors, yarn needle, fiberfill for stuffing

Suggested Embellishments: 

Eyes:  Tiny buttons (6mm), google eyes, fabric paint, yarn, thread, etc.

Mouth:  Yarn, thread, fabric paint, etc.

Hair:  Yarn, felt, etc.

Finished Size:  Approximately 5” in height

Gauge:  Not essential for this project.

Special Techniques

Drawstring Cast-On:  Step 1: Pass the working yarn in front of peg 1.  Pass the working yarn behind peg 2.  Pass the working yarn in front of peg 3.  Pass the working yarn behind peg 4.  Continue weaving the working yarn in front of and behind the pegs until the working yarn reaches peg 1 again.

Step 2:  Lay the working yarn against peg 1, above the wrap from step 1.  Knit the lower wrap over the top wrap.  Pass the working yarn in front of peg 2.  Lay the working yarn against peg 3, above the wrap from step 1.  Knit the lower wrap over the top wrap.  Pass the working yarn in front of peg 4.  Continue working in this manner until the working yarn reaches peg 1 again.  Cast on is now complete.  Continue on as directed in the pattern.

Adding a Gathering Thread:  Cut a 12” length of yarn and thread it on to the yarn needle.  Push the yarn needle up under the stitch on peg 1.  Pull the length of yarn out through the stitch, stopping when an inch or two remains at the bottom of the stitch. Move to the next peg and pull the yarn needle up under the stitch.  Pull the length of yarn until all of the slack is gone between the two pegs.  Continue working in this manner until the gathering line has been pulled up under the last stitch in the round. Remove the yarn needle.  Leave the gathering line in place.  It will be used later to shape the monster’s neck.  Continue on as directed in the pattern.

3 Stitch I-Cord:  Using the double E-wrap cast-on method, cast on 3 stitches.  *Working yarn will be at peg 3.  Take the working yarn behind peg 2 and peg 1.  Bring the working yarn around the front of peg 1 and lay it across pegs 1, 2, and 3.  Knit peg 2, then peg 1, then peg 3.  Repeat from * as directed in pattern, or until I-cord reaches the desired length.  Gently pull on the cord every few inches to help set the stitches.

Bind the I-cord off by moving the stitch on the second peg over to the first peg, placing it above the stitch on the peg.  Knit the bottom stich over the top stitch.  Move the stitch from peg 3 over to peg 1, placing it above the stitch on the peg.  Knit the bottom stitch over the top stitch. With the working yarn, wrap peg 1 and knit it.  Cut the working yarn, leaving a yarn tail measuring about 4”.  Draw the working yarn out through the last stitch remaining on peg 1, and gently pull on the yarn tail to secure the bind off.  Weave in all yarn ends.

Instructions

Head and Body:

Prepare the loom to work over 18 pegs, in the round.  Choose a yarn color for the head.  Using the drawstring cast-on method, cast on 18 stitches.  Work 10 rows using the u-wrap knit stitch.

Add a gathering thread.  (See special techniques)

If desired, switch to a new color for the body.   Work 15 more rows using the u-wrap knit stitch.  Remove from the loom using the gathered bind off method, but do not gather yet.  Set aside.

 Limbs (Make 4, or more):

Using the same color that the body was worked in, cast on 3 pegs.  Work a 3 stitch I-cord for 6 rows.  Switch to chosen head color, if desired.  Work 3 stitch I-cord for 4 more rows.  Bind off and set aside.  Repeat this process for the remaining limbs.

Finishing:

Work with the head and body piece first.  Gather the top of the head closed by pulling on the yarn tail from the drawstring cast-on.  Use the yarn needle to weave the tail in.

Stuff the head section with fiberfill.  Gather the neck area by pulling on the yarn tails of the gathering thread.  Secure the neck shaping by tying a knot in the gathering thread.  Use the yarn needle to weave in the ends of the gathering thread.

Stuff the body section with fiberfill.  Gather the body closed by pulling on the yarn tail from the gathered bind off.  Use the yarn needle to weave the tail in.

Use the yarn needle to sew the limbs to the body.  Attach the arms near the neckline; attach the legs at the bottom of the body.  Weave in any remaining yarn tails.

Now for the best part – embellishing!  Give your monster(s) hair.  Or horns.  Eye(s).  Mouth.  Fangs.  Scars.  Whatever your imagination can scare up.  Only, maybe avoid giving them a laboratory brain marked A B Normal…

Tip:  Each monster is knit as directed in the pattern.  Different looks can be achieved by varying the colors and types of fibers used while knitting, as well as using a variety of embellishments.  Let your creativity run wild!

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Frankenstein is embellished with button eyes. Mouth and scar are embroidered on. Hair is added a strand at a time. It is tied into the top of the head, the plies are split, then the hair is mussed up a bit.

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Voodoo doll is embellished with one button eye and a button heart. Mouth and second ‘eye’ are embroidered on. He is also brushed with dark eye shadow to give him a dirty appearance.

IMG_2758 (600x800)

Monster is knit in a strand of basic worsted weight acrylic, along with a thin, fuzzy novelty fiber to give him a furry look. He is embellished with one googly eye, backed by a slightly larger felt circle.

            

4 Comments

  • I think these are the sweetest spooks ever! You’ve really come up with some darling gouls for us to loom knit, Jenny! Spooktacular job!!! :D

  • Love!!!

  • Thank you, Bethany and Dale!

  • give me an idea for a different helloween , they will be suprised !

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